josh72ooh2

I have one of the 85 amps that will bolt right in. It has been tested, has new brushes and voltage regular in it. I can ship it to you for $120 total. If you look at my other postings you will see photos of it for sale.

aaah. Good to know. The car is carpeted and complete. This project would be too much work for just a console swap. thanks for the info.

I've got a 72 2002 but it does not have the raised lip near the shifter to attach the shifter boot. Perhaps it was an automatic in it's original days... Regardless, I was going to put in a shorty console but I have nothing to attach the boot to. Is that boot-lip a separate piece? Is it something I can add? If so, how? I may end up sticking with my long console if all this is too much trouble.

I love my EFI set up but lately, the idle has been erratic and cold starts are not happy. It runs great otherwise. If you search my posts, you will see the setup. I have a chipped '93 BMW ECU controlling it... and the problem is I have no idea how to program it. So... I have to get it back to the guy who did the install and initial tune. Someday...WAAAAY down the road I'll probably go with a Megasquirt or something else and learn to program it myself.

Search the archives. i asked the same thing a few months ago. Bought some VW tubing. fits great.

damn. Rob was such a nice guy. He would send me extra parts, sometimes parts for free, etc... this is a big bummer to the 2002 community.

damn. Rob was such a nice guy. He would send me extra parts, sometimes parts for free, etc... this is a big bummer to the 2002 community.

Yes, it was around 12.56V (if memory serves).

Why??? because i never knew those existed! Seems like a good band-aid solution for now. I'll look into getting one asap. Thanks! -josh

I just went out to check the car and it isn't reading any draw at all... so now i'm totally scratching my head. I'm leaving the battery disconnected until i can figure this out and i'll just connect it when i want to drive the car (about every week or two).

Build photos are above. I'm pretty sure it is the 90 wiring harness. there are a few odds and ends that aren't connected. I still want to install an 02 sensor and implement that with the ECU.

The engine is a normal M10 block but with a 84 manifold, fuel rail, etc.. it is driven by a 94 ECU that was chipped for the car. I let the car sit for about a week and a half and it was dead again. I'll get back out there with the tester and see what else I can come up with.

Thanks you guys. Some confessions here... The car only gets driven either once a week, or sometimes it will sit for 2-3 weeks. I wish I could drive it more but parking situation makes it difficult to access. Battery is new-ish (less then a year). I put the new alternator on, charged the battery and it died in 2-3 weeks of sitting which makes me think I still have an issue. Before the new alternator, the car was frequently found with a dead battery after charging it (but again, a week or two may have gone by). i will admit, that i chased the problem down to an alarm i hooked up for door actuators and the alarm was going into some mode in which it was drawing current. But the alarm has been disconnected for 6 months now. The car is fuel injected with a '94 chipped ECU. But that shouldn't have an effect. I have an aftermarket stereo and amp but that shouldn't be an issue. I disconnected the power to the amp and it made no difference. When car is on, volts are 13+, as expected thanks to the new alternator. While car is off - multimeter set to AMPS - connected between the battery negative and negative cable: I am showing a .02Amp draw (with amp disconnected). I disconnect the fuse to the hazard and dome light (Fuse #8) and it drops to .01Amp If I disconnect the large cable to the starter, it drops to .01Amp. I disconnect both, and I still see .01amp draw (maybe it is the clock). So if you are saying that .02Amp draw s nothing to be worried about? I wish i could run an extension cable out to a battery tender while the car sits but there is too much foot traffic between the car an outlet. As of now, i just disconnect the battery when the car sits for a while.

Hello Esty. I just emailed you but it is hard to tell if my email went through. I am considering a short console as well. I might not need the face plate though. -Josh

I did all that and concluded that the draw ceases when the cable is disconnected from the starter.

I've been coming out to a dead battery way too often. A jump or a charge and i can drive my 2002 like normal. I had issues with the internal voltage regulator on one of those 85 amp Ebay alternators that are a direct replacement for your 2002 alternator. When the car was warm, the voltage was all over the place... mostly much too low. I replaced the alternator (got a 95 amp) and problem solved while car is running. Still coming out to a dead battery though. It seems that I still have an electrical issue that i need some clarity on. Battery is in the trunk. There is a terminal that goes from the trunk to the engine bay. On that terminal is a series of wires for the headlamp relay upgrade, stereo, and of course, the fat wire that goes to the starter. I am showing a 12.8v and 20 milliamps when I put the meter between the negative cable and the negative terminal on the battery. The only thing that stops that current is when I disconnect the fat positive wire that goes to the starter. I am showing a constant 12.8 volts through the alternator when the car is off (by connecting the power lead of alternator to the ground that goes to the engine block). Electrical gurus... any ideas? need more testing info? if so, let me know and I'm happy to test more. -Josh

Yes, i know it has been done. it is on my wish list... for wayyy down the road. Somebody was selling kits on Ebay too.

My daughter and I were watching too. Did you notice how he popped the trunk from inside the car? I was like " I wish my 2002 did that"

Where do you get thicker spring pads? My 2002 has a saggy butt too!

Yes, warm and engine running. sometimes just under 12V. sometimes 13+. Car off, 12+ volts. I disconnected my alarm and sound system a week ago. The alarm was the culprit of the current draw. The sound system does have a subwoofer but it isn't anything crazy. But nothing has solved the occasional dip in volts. My guess is that the internal voltage regulator in the alternator is goofy. I can disconnect the battery with the car running and it will still run (indicating that the alternator is OK). Although i haven't tried that when the 'L' light is on.