roadhog0

My first experience with Michigan rust being from Seattle was a company work truck. A guy drove a not even 10 year old F350 out here for the company from Detroit. I got a look at this thing and one exhaust manifold was about to fall off because the bolts were rusting off and breaking. That was my least favorite truck to work on... Do not miss that thing! Though oddly enough it drove amazing 🤷‍♂️

Mmmm yes! I love being in Andrews position on the internet. Very well spoken sir!

Looks like it's too late with this car for me to go back to college, drop out, start a crazy popular tech startup then have a couple million spare to spend on this. Though I might be able to pull it off in 5 days 🤔

I miss the turn key easyness of my 38, but darn do my 45's make a sound, even if they do require routine fiddling...

Honestly, why do you need a kit? If you have a welder, a drill, and a grinder you can do most of the swap for nothing. Pull the trans, carefully grind the old trans mounts off and maybe cut the spot welds if yours are spot welded on. Narrow the trans crossmember, shorten shift tower and linkage the prescribed amount, weld the mounts further back in the car, and you're set. Just gotta get driveline shortened, new clutch hose, clutch slave, speedo cable, and throw out bearing. Saves some $ this way. That's just my .02 though.

Big surprise the DOL's did something different lol! I think it really depends on who you get more than anything. But I dig year tabs. I should probably move my '02 over to classic plates, I just wish I didn't have to pull my old plate off the car. My dump truck is the one I really want to put on collector plates but they look down on hauling anything. What else am I supposed to do with a 70 year old dump truck 🤷‍♂️

This is incorrect actually. You just need the right plate era. Tab year does not matter. At least with my motorcycles they didn't care one bit. My bikes run the debossed green plates good from 68-74. Both I believe have 74 tabs. One bike a 68, one a 74. I've had good luck with the Bothell licensing office knowing their stuff, Covington is pretty good as well. Issaquah is OK if you know what you're doing and you have all your paperwork set, Renton is the same but the lines are huge... I've swapped so much stuff that I have it all pretty well sorted, but they still love to throw a curve ball off and on.

I have a set of the aluminum door sill plates if needed for reference.

And here I thought it was only my webers that liked to randomly dump fuel all over just because they can. Good to hear he got you fixed up!

Fun footage! I didn't take a single picture this time. Too much driving :P We'll see y'all next time!

I sorta dig em... But I'm partial to mine and have had them 10+ years. I "think" you can run without them in the state. You could also tuck them as an option.

Sometime in the summer of '09 shortly after I pulled the car out of it's 20 year slumber in a friends folks garage. That was the last roll of film I ever ran through my old Canon AE-1. Maybe I should dig it out again....

Weather so far ain't looking good... 😕

I picked mine up from DBelectrical. Been a darn good starter at a solid price! https://www.dbelectrical.com/products/starter-bmw-535-series-3-4l-88-89-90-91-92-93-17237.html

He didn't give any source for parts? What he's saying is it would be easier to find a 3.45 gear set then put an LSD in it. Basically take two diffs and make one. I can't help with the gear set, I've got 4.10's running around....