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duckdudess

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Everything posted by duckdudess

  1. I have a Sachs clutch and pressure plate in good shape. It's free if picked up in Portland. Same for e21 seat adjusters. Came off of a Recaro set of seats.
  2. I saw an old classified for wiper motors, one of which was rebuilt by Cardone. Their website states that they only work through distributors. Who do you use? We’re you happy with the result? Can you tell me the cost and length of time I took?
     

    Thanks

  3. I recently purchased a windshield, OEM gasket, locking strip and cover from W+N. Took all of it to an old school windshield shop that understands how to install rubber seals. They couldn’t use the seal because “it was too narrow”. Apparently it fit the glass but not the sheet metal. They reused the 10 year old OEM seal which worked fine. New seal goes back to W+N. Not sure what’s up with this, so just FYI.
  4. This may have been where AceAndrew was going with his question, but 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive colors are not for cosmetic purposes. They (black and yellow) bond different types of rubber. I had the same problem with URO door seals (old ones) and this response from the 3M Tech Team solved the problem: The 08001 yellow weather strip adhesive bonds neoprene, SBR, butyl and other types of rubber. With other synthetic rubbers such EPDM can be more difficult to bond to which we have designed 08011 for. So, ask URO what type of rubber the new seals are made from.
  5. My driver's door card was off, so I took a few photos: one of the front stop, one of the rear stop and one of the upper door tabs that stop those stops.
  6. So the second water temp gauge is redundant, but I have one and it gives me a better idea of the health of the cooling system since the VDO gauge, unlike the dash gauge, is accurate and reliable. If you still want to do it, I found a water divider that had a spare undrilled boss that I had drilled and tapped to fit the VDO sender. It was cheap, easy and fool proof.
  7. I got the full meal deal from Jim 8 or 9 years ago and couldn’t be happier. 2.3L Rally engine, lightened flywheel and S14 starter. He modified the intake to match the 38/38 and he has some secret sauce recipe for the carb. Runs like a scalded dog. I also used his proprietary short shift kit and 5 speed mount which uses the original 4 speed mounting points on the tunnel. This and the center bearing took some fiddling to get the guibo square with the transmission, but once sorted, it is rock solid. Great customer service as previously mentioned.
  8. Another alternative is Metric Mechanic. I used their unique transmission mount and short shift kit on a 5 speed install 10 years ago and am very happy with the quality and function.
  9. My 02 cents: 10 years ago I embarked on a similar project. Bought the 02 in Seattle and relocated it to Portland as a project for my then high school aged son and I to fiddle with. The goal was to get a solid runner where everything worked well. We went well past that goal, but the things that got us there, in order were: 1) Remedied the shake, rattle and roll by replacing the tires and every single urethane or old rubber part with new rubber in the front and rear suspension, including the steering shaft donut, guibo and differential hanger (I had the differential out anyway). 2) Replaced the front and rear shocks including new ball joints while the struts were out. 3) Fixed the heating/cooling system with a new thermostat, 3 core radiator and electric fan (the mechanical one was hitting the radiator under hard braking). I cleaned up the heater valve and replaced all of the hoses at the same time. 4) Rebuilt the front and rear brakes with all new/rebuilt parts. Zinced the calipers. Replaced the parking brake cables. 5) Fixed the various grounding issues in the instrument cluster so that the gauges worked (better). 6) Replaced the battery. 7) Replaced the clutch master cylinder which was shot. This stuff got me a car that ran reliably. Every single bit of this was accomplished by my son and I. We have average mechanical skills, plenty of tools and decent problem solving skills but none of this required (paid) professional help or special tools. Everything is available on this web site. Lot's of posts, articles and smart people. After all of that, I do what many people do...spent more time and money on the beast. The net is that every single thing is now done (new or rebuilt), except the body work, which I don't care (as much ) about. After the basic stuff above, I replaced all of the door and window seals. Mine were 40 years old and shot. If I did it again, I would use 100% BMW rubber. I used URO for the doors and have never been happy about it. Too stiff. The new seals reduced (did not eliminate) air noise and the car didn't leak when it rained. I eventually had the engine rebuilt. It did one thing that wasn't ideal: blew smoke on high load deceleration. In my case this was heading down a steep hill in 2nd or 3rd, picking up decent speed and taking my foot off the accelerator. I didn't blow smoke on hard acceleration but decided that the motor needed a refresh and went with a much higher torque/horsepower alternative. Again, those two tests can be done without any special skills except a working right foot. While the engine was out, I did put in a 5 speed and LSD, but they were cheap then. Now it's nuts. Also, the speedo had to be recalibrated because I moved from a 3.64 to 3.91 rear end. More money. I'm not sure I'd do this again, but at the time it was relatively inexpensive so why not? Short of the engine rebuild, you should be able to do all of this yourself. And it's fun. Good luck with the project.
  10. You might also check out Metric Mechanic's solution. I've had it installed for 10 years and am very happy with it. One aside: not sure how the owner in the photo made his work without lowering the center bearing. I was eating guibos until I fixed that.
  11. I just finished redoing that part with the solution referenced earlier by Esty using T+B self adhesive pile weatherstrip 3/8" x 1/8" Grey available on Amazon for $7.99 for 16'. 3/8" is the width and 1/8" is the pile height. This is designed for screen or storm doors. Some is designed to slide into a track on the door and others are stick on. You want the stick on. I could not find it in any other color than grey but since it's hidden inside the door, you can't see it anyway. Also, this particular brand comes with an adhesive that is very strong. I was concerned that it would not adhere to my old fuzzy seal, which was bonded to a cloth backing and impossible to separate. I cut a small piece and stuck it to fuzzy strip and it was hard to remove it. The adhesive does its job. Here are few photos.
  12. A hydraulic press is the right tool for this job. Hammering on it does sometimes work, but it can also deform the end making the circlip impossible to reinstall. The press is quick and easy.
  13. I'm looking for a shop in the Portland area with experience restoring 2002s. Eventually, I will do the whole body, but right now, I'm going to give a shop a small test by repairing/repainting a damaged driver's door. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
  14. I have the same steering wheel on my 1970 '02 and purchased it from Sherman Martinez on this site. He confirmed that it was an early 320is part. Later ones had the plastic spoke covers. When I received it, the horn ring was gone. I used the stock horn ring and the carbon pin that was in the original 2002 steering wheel. When that one disintegrated a few years ago, I replaced it with a different one, part # 32331109750, which I got from Blunttech. Since there are several styles, a little experimentation may be required to find the one that works best. My steering wheel had a hole in the bottom which looked like part of the aluminum casting versus something drilled by a previous owned. I inserted the carbon pin through that hole and and attached it to the horn button. Before doing that, I added a few nylon washers around the carbon pin to space it closer to the horn ring. Similarly, I spaced the blinker switch toward the steering wheel and away from the steering column in order for the canceling arm on the switch to contact the return gizmo on the steering column. Both of these adjustments were required because I did not properly pre-load the steering column after replacing the steering box universal joint. It is supposed to be compressed ~1/4". However, had I done that, the stock 320is steering wheel surround would have needed a shave. While a bit goofy, it works and was simple to implement.
  15. There is a spec for pre-loading the steering column (third photo down) which I didn't do after I reinstalled the steering box after re-habbing the front subframe. That would have solved the problem, but instead I just cut a few spacers and reinstalled the switch with longer screws. Kind of goofy, but it works.
  16. Giving a nod to the 70’s Volkswagen repair manual that spawned countless others, my post is a distillation of several other posts on how to construct half shafts that work with the installation of an e21 LSD in your ’02. In all cases, the e21 parts referenced are the “later” e21 parts. In my case, I believe that they came from a 1980 320is. Other posts and reference material cite differences in dimensions of “early” half shafts, CV joint bolts and differential widths. See the end of this article. Primary problem: stock 2002 half shafts (CVs plus axle) are too short with a e21 LSD installed. Why: the LSD is ~10mm narrower. Secondary problem: the inner 2002 CV won’t bolt to the later LSD. Why: because the LSD uses 10mm bolts and the 2002 CV uses 8 mm bolts. Solution: Use later e21 half shafts, replacing the outer e21 CV with a 2002 CV. This allows the inner CV to bolt directly to the LSD output shafts and the outer CV to bolt directly to the wheel input shaft. The 2002 CV is used without the cupped washer that comes on the stock half shaft. The inner CV has a ¼” (6.5mm) spacer between it and the LSD output shaft. That’s it. Of course, you should take everything apart, clean and inspect the CVs and re-grease them. New CV boots and clamps finish off the project. The taking apart can be facilitated if you have a hydraulic press. A couple of the CVs nearly fell off with a light tapping, but a couple needed persuasion. I found a friend with a press which reduced the stress on the axle shaft ends that results from banging on it. Just make sure the circlips are removed first. Details I took a number of measurements of the e21 and 2002 parts. I also took some photos. What I learned was that the stock 2002 half shaft and the hybrid shaft described above are exactly the same length (see photo), yet the e21 LSD is 10mm narrower than the stock 2002 differential. This can be seen in the photo of the two differentials sitting side by side with a level on top to the 2002 output shaft. It’s sitting on a shoulder that is ~1mm-~2mm higher than the mounting surface, but you get the idea. The spacer mentioned above closes this gap. I had spacers that were 6.5mm each (1/4”), so I used them. I would have preferred to use 3/16” or 5mm, but I couldn’t find any, so I went with what I had. The ¼” variety are readily available from all of the well know ’02 suppliers. More details The cages and balls in the e21 and 2002 CV were identical. The axle shafts were not. The 2002 shafts were shorter end to end (top shaft in photo), but interestingly also had longer splined ends which I surmise is why they used the cupped washers to take up the space required to secure the CV with the circlip on the end of the half shaft. If you try to use the cupped washer on the shorter splined 320i axle, there is no way to install the circlip. I tried. Extraneous stuff I wanted to use Oetiker clamps on the dust boots which came with a prior rebuild kit. These are single use items, but low profile and very secure. I couldn’t find them at any of the local auto parts shops, so I ordered them from a metric parts house: Belmetric.com. Part # 16300029 on the CV end of the dust boot and # 16700042 on the axle end of the dust boot. These require special pliers to install and given that the local auto parts store no longer carried the clamps, they also no longer loaned out the pliers required to install them. Instead, I borrowed a pair of my friend’s pricey Pex clamp pliers which worked perfectly. The $12 Home Depot variety didn’t work (well). I also ordered conical lock nuts for the 8mm outer 2002 CV bolts. They’re called stover nuts and have oblong looking holes. These are lower profile than conventional nylock nuts and are what were used on the stock 2002 drive shaft flanges. They are <1/2 the price of the BMW versions. Bel-Metric’s parts were shipped express, so I had them in 2 days. Pretty good service and the parts were just as expected. The back story I started all of this because I wanted to fix a leaking LSD rear cover. When I originally did this conversion 10 years ago, I used a conventional gasket which always leaked, so I decided to use Permatex Ultra Black on the do over. While preparing to remove the LSD, with the car on jack stands, I noticed that the differential output shaft on one side was pulled out of the differential by 1/2”. There was a huge gap between the output shaft dust cover and the differential which kind of freaked me out. This only seemed to occur when the wheels were up in the air and their weight pulled the output shafts part way out the differential. The same thing might happen if an energetic driver got the car airborne, which it turned out my son had. It explained the splatter of Redline dripping off the differential onto my garage floor. What was most amazing about this was the discovery that when I originally did the LSD install and the half shaft conversion, I used the 2002 half shafts, which from the photos above, are much shorter. And yet the car ran around for 10,000 miles without any (obviously) adverse effects. Is there a lesson here? Just do it whatever and it will probably work? Maybe, but the great news with this site is that after I did the conversion the first time, a lot more intelligent questions were asked, with knowledgeable answers given, which helped me to get this done right the second time around. So, thanks to the FAQers who preceded me in answering questions and documenting their projects. I’m happy to add my story to the list. Parts List Quantity Description 1 2002 half shaft – only need the 2 CV joints, save cupped washers for another project 2 e21 half shafts – need 2 axles and 2 CV joints from later year 2 3/16” or ¼” spacers 12 10mm x 65mm Allen head bolts 2 Half shaft rebuild kits (2 dust boots, 2 large and 2 small Oetiker clamps, 1 tubes grease) Good references, with more detail, are : Ireland Engineering Differentials article: http://www.bmw2002.com/documents/bmw-2002-differentials.pdf 2002 FAQ post (see “Gil by the way of Gary” text): 2002 FAQ post, e21 Diff Install with 320i Inner CV Joints: 2002 FAQ Post, How to Replace a Differential:
  17. Giving a nod to the 70’s Volkswagen repair manual that spawned countless others, my post is a distillation of several other posts on how to construct half shafts that work with the installation of an e21 LSD in your ’02. In all cases, the e21 parts referenced are the “later” e21 parts. In my case, I believe that they came from a 1980 320is. Other posts and reference material cite differences in dimensions of “early” half shafts, CV joint bolts and differential widths. See the end of this article. Primary problem: stock 2002 half shafts (CVs plus axle) are too short with a e21 LSD installed. Why: the LSD is ~10mm narrower. Secondary problem: the inner 2002 CV won’t bolt to the later LSD. Why: because the LSD uses 10mm bolts and the 2002 CV uses 8 mm bolts. Solution: Use later e21 half shafts, replacing the outer e21 CV with a 2002 CV. This allows the inner CV to bolt directly to the LSD output shafts and the outer CV to bolt directly to the wheel input shaft. The 2002 CV is used without the cupped washer that comes on the stock half shaft. The inner CV has a ¼” (6.5mm) spacer between it and the LSD output shaft. That’s it. Of course, you should take everything apart, clean and inspect the CVs and re-grease them. New CV boots and clamps finish off the project. The taking apart can be facilitated if you have a hydraulic press. A couple of the CVs nearly fell off with a light tapping, but a couple needed persuasion. I found a friend with a press which reduced the stress on the axle shaft ends that results from banging on it. Just make sure the circlips are removed first. Details I took a number of measurements of the e21 and 2002 parts. I also took some photos. What I learned was that the stock 2002 half shaft and the hybrid shaft described above are exactly the same length (see photo), yet the e21 LSD is 10mm narrower than the stock 2002 differential. This can be seen in the photo of the two differentials sitting side by side with a level on top to the 2002 output shaft. It’s sitting on a shoulder that is ~1mm-~2mm higher than the mounting surface, but you get the idea. The spacer mentioned above closes this gap. I had spacers that were 6.5mm each (1/4”), so I used them. I would have preferred to use 3/16” or 5mm, but I couldn’t find any, so I went with what I had. The ¼” variety are readily available from all of the well know ’02 suppliers. More details The cages and balls in the e21 and 2002 CV were identical. The axle shafts were not. The 2002 shafts were shorter end to end (top shaft in photo), but interestingly also had longer splined ends which I surmise is why they used the cupped washers to take up the space required to secure the CV with the circlip on the end of the half shaft. If you try to use the cupped washer on the shorter splined 320i axle, there is no way to install the circlip. I tried. Extraneous stuff I wanted to use Oetiker clamps on the dust boots which came with a prior rebuild kit. These are single use items, but low profile and very secure. I couldn’t find them at any of the local auto parts shops, so I ordered them from a metric parts house: Belmetric.com. Part # 16300029 on the CV end of the dust boot and # 16700042 on the axle end of the dust boot. These require special pliers to install and given that the local auto parts store no longer carried the clamps, they also no longer loaned out the pliers required to install them. Instead, I borrowed a pair of my friend’s pricey Pex clamp pliers which worked perfectly. The $12 Home Depot variety didn’t work (well). I also ordered conical lock nuts for the 8mm outer 2002 CV bolts. They’re called stover nuts and have oblong looking holes. These are lower profile than conventional nylock nuts and are what were used on the stock 2002 drive shaft flanges. They are <1/2 the price of the BMW versions. Bel-Metric’s parts were shipped express, so I had them in 2 days. Pretty good service and the parts were just as expected. The back story I started all of this because I wanted to fix a leaking LSD rear cover. When I originally did this conversion 10 years ago, I used a conventional gasket which always leaked, so I decided to use Permatex Ultra Black on the do over. While preparing to remove the LSD, with the car on jack stands, I noticed that the differential output shaft on one side was pulled out of the differential by 1/2”. There was a huge gap between the output shaft dust cover and the differential which kind of freaked me out. This only seemed to occur when the wheels were up in the air and their weight pulled the output shafts part way out the differential. The same thing might happen if an energetic driver got the car airborne, which it turned out my son had. It explained the splatter of Redline dripping off the differential onto my garage floor. What was most amazing about this was the discovery that when I originally did the LSD install and the half shaft conversion, I used the 2002 half shafts, which from the photos above, are much shorter. And yet the car ran around for 10,000 miles without any (obviously) adverse effects. Is there a lesson here? Just do it whatever and it will probably work? Maybe, but the great news with this site is that after I did the conversion the first time, a lot more intelligent questions were asked, with knowledgeable answers given, which helped me to get this done right the second time around. So, thanks to the FAQers who preceded me in answering questions and documenting their projects. I’m happy to add my story to the list. Parts List Quantity Description 1 2002 half shaft – only need the 2 CV joints, save cupped washers for another project 2 e21 half shafts – need 2 axles and 2 CV joints from later year 2 3/16” or ¼” spacers 12 10mm x 65mm Allen head bolts 2 Half shaft rebuild kits (2 dust boots, 2 large and 2 small Oetiker clamps, 1 tubes grease) Good references, with more detail, are : Ireland Engineering Differentials article: http://www.bmw2002.com/documents/bmw-2002-differentials.pdf 2002 FAQ post (see “Gil by the way of Gary” text): 2002 FAQ post, e21 Diff Install with 320i Inner CV Joints: 2002 FAQ Post, How to Replace a Differential: View full article
  18. The note above above 3M Black Trim Adhesive with EPDM rubber is the key. I went back and forth with 3M tech support, who were very responsive, and that is what they suggested. The yellow variety is for different rubber and did not work on the URO seals not matter how clean, abraded, etc. the paint and seal were.And if you don't like the result, the 3M adhesive remover takes it all off and did not hard my paint.
  19. I recently recovered a set of e21 Recaros for use in my 1970 2002. The rear seat was in great shape with black factory basketweave vinyl. I wanted to match the pattern with the recovered seats in the front and began to research the alternatives. The goal was to find a source with as close a match as possible, both in pattern and feel. The feel is subjective since the original vinyl on the rear seat was somewhat hard after 50 years as was the passenger's front seat, but the weight/quality of the original vinyl was noticeably different than that used when I previously had the driver's seat recovered locally. I contacted several suppliers, received samples from each and eventually selected #1010S Black basketweave from GAAH in North Hollywood. I also used their smooth vinyl #0005 Black. It felt the best, my calipers measured it as the thickest and the pattern, while not exactly the same as the original, was close enough that without a close inspection, it looks like a good match to the original rear seat. More on that difference below. I considered these sources: BMW - they still sell the basketweave vinyl. The sample was 1 yard which was the minimum quantity. It was OK, but no better than any of the domestically produced vinyl alternatives. A FAQer got a good price on the resale. World Upholstery - 150 Basketweave. Pattern was fine, embossing a little faint, material weight similar to other domestic choices (lighter weight). Global Upholstery - R120 Basketweave. Very similar to GAAH vinyl. Slightly more distinct embossing. Looked almost the same thickness as GAAH, but maybe a little thinner and I liked the feel of the GAAH better, Also, while I called and spoke with Global Upholstery, I received the sample and business card from Steven Sperling who has an eBay store called zoomzoomzoom-ing. Lots of forum discussions that raised some concerns. GAAH - #1010S Black Vinyl ""Basketweave" looked and felt the best and their smooth vinyl #0005 is also a very close match to the original. This basketweave was the highest priced at ~$75/yard. However, the material is not a major cost in the job, it's the labor. No surprise. GAAH also has an "In House" basketweave pattern, but it must be intended for other Euro cars because it's not even close to the BMW version. A couple of notes for those of you that have basketweave seats and are considering a recovering project. - The primary difference between all of these patterns and the original vinyl pattern is that the original has vertical seams or lines every couple of inches that may have simulated what actual stitching may have looked like had then been used. None of the patterns I found, included that sold by BMW had that feature. - The basketweave has an orientation. If you look closely, there are rectangular bar between the divots. The original seats had the long part of the rectangles parallel to the sides of the seats. So running front to back on the seat bottom and bottom to top on the back. I mention this because it apparently takes 2X the replacement material to sew them like this, but if you don't, or don't tell the upholsterer, you're going to get fronts that don't match the backs, which defeats the whole purpose. Last, as many before me have testified, a shout out to Dave Varco is warranted. He did the seat work and it is truly spectacular. They feel and look like they are new. I would never send a set of seats, or refer a friend, anywhere else.
  20. I recently recovered a set of e21 Recaros for use in my 1970 2002. The rear seat was in great shape with black factory basketweave vinyl. I wanted to match the pattern with the recovered seats in the front and began to research the alternatives. The goal was to find a source with as close a match as possible, both in pattern and feel. The feel is subjective since the original vinyl on the rear seat was somewhat hard after 50 years as was the passenger's front seat, but the weight/quality of the original vinyl was noticeably different than that used when I previously had the driver's seat recovered locally. I contacted several suppliers, received samples from each and eventually selected #1010S Black basketweave from GAAH in North Hollywood. I also used their smooth vinyl #0005 Black. It felt the best, my calipers measured it as the thickest and the pattern, while not exactly the same as the original, was close enough that without a close inspection, it looks like a good match to the original rear seat. More on that difference below. I considered these sources: BMW - they still sell the basketweave vinyl. The sample was 1 yard which was the minimum quantity. It was OK, but no better than any of the domestically produced vinyl alternatives. A FAQer got a good price on the resale. World Upholstery - 150 Basketweave. Pattern was fine, embossing a little faint, material weight similar to other domestic choices (lighter weight). Global Upholstery - R120 Basketweave. Very similar to GAAH vinyl. Slightly more distinct embossing. Looked almost the same thickness as GAAH, but maybe a little thinner and I liked the feel of the GAAH better, Also, while I called and spoke with Global Upholstery, I received the sample and business card from Steven Sperling who has an eBay store called zoomzoomzoom-ing. Lots of forum discussions that raised some concerns. GAAH - #1010S Black Vinyl ""Basketweave" looked and felt the best and their smooth vinyl #0005 is also a very close match to the original. This basketweave was the highest priced at ~$75/yard. However, the material is not a major cost in the job, it's the labor. No surprise. GAAH also has an "In House" basketweave pattern, but it must be intended for other Euro cars because it's not even close to the BMW version. A couple of notes for those of you that have basketweave seats and are considering a recovering project. - The primary difference between all of these patterns and the original vinyl pattern is that the original has vertical seams or lines every couple of inches that may have simulated what actual stitching may have looked like had then been used. None of the patterns I found, included that sold by BMW had that feature. - The basketweave has an orientation. If you look closely, there are rectangular bar between the divots. The original seats had the long part of the rectangles parallel to the sides of the seats. So running front to back on the seat bottom and bottom to top on the back. I mention this because it apparently takes 2X the replacement material to sew them like this, but if you don't, or don't tell the upholsterer, you're going to get fronts that don't match the backs, which defeats the whole purpose. Last, as many before me have testified, a shout out to Dave Varco is warranted. He did the seat work and it is truly spectacular. They feel and look like they are new. I would never send a set of seats, or refer a friend, anywhere else. View full article
  21. Here's a weird #11: make sure your gas tank matches your car. I replaced the fuel filler neck on my '70 because the old one was pretty hard. Didn't take the new one long to do the same, but that isn't the problem. I had "the smell" and decided to put a homemade charcoal canister inline on the vent hose. Seemed to make it better, but didn't fix it. 10 years went by and I occasionally had more fumes than normal after I filled the tank. Purely by accident, I had the trunk open as I was filling the tank (in Oregon, normally you can't do this yourself since it's "unsafe") and noticed gas leaking from around the flange that connects the fuel filler neck to the inlet. I did a little sleuthing through my parts book and noticed that the fuel filler neck was different on the '70 than the later Roundies. The '70 was designed to fit a vertical flange on the gas tank and then clamp to a horizontal flange on the rear quarter panel. I had the right gas tank, but no flange on the quarter panel and instead the fittings used on later model Roundies, which were designed for the later model fuel filler neck. As it turns out, my rear end is not original, which I knew because of the long eared bumpers, but I never knew about the differences in the fuel filler neck and related fittings.So instead of replacing my rear end to get the right flange for the fuel filler neck or replacing the tank to allow the correct filler neck, I made a gasket to take up the gap in the upper part of the filler neck where it clamps to the fittings form the later Roundies. This fixed the leak and should cure at least a lot of the smell since I won't have gas sloshing around in the trunk after every fill.
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