3nSahalee

Is this a decent/fair price for this NK? I ask as I feel my car is in far better condition, it's running very well and will be driving soon. (just need to finish brake system overhaul. My NK is totally complete with some nifty stock, period correct extras, lots of documentation, an interior that'd look great on a BMW showroom floor right now. and a really straight and shiny exterior with limited (and Scandinavian in it's genesis) rusty spots. Mine is also a euro model import with the rectangular headlights, and a manual trans. I bought my '68 with the intention of fixing her up and flipping it, but have now become very attached to it... without even driving it. But i LOVE to open the garage and start it up, (on the 1st attempt every time!!!), and listen to that little 2 litre run like a Singer sewing machine. It is such a cool car! I'm not sure that I will want to sell it after i get to drive it in another month. Then I see an ad like this and think that if this guy is asking $3,500 for a shell and some boxes of bits and parts. I see a LOT of work and money still to go on this one, maybe another 3-5k with paint and bodywork, plus a lot of work prepping/repairing/replacing and then putting it together.... and another recently in Seattle that was worn & torn throughout went for around $3k, then my car must be worth WAAAAYYYY more that I thought. What's the consensus on this asking price? 1 -UNDERPRICED. It's a heckuva deal. Should've been gone yesterday. 2 -FAIR. Reflects current market for these classic Bimmers 3 -STEP AWAY FROM THE CRACK PIPE! Not a chance, Pal.

this may help..... good luck to you. Diagnostic flowchart for a car that won't start 97-2003.doc

stumbled across this and thought it might be helpful to someone here at some point in some timespace-string theory kinda way..... i laminated page 2 and am keeping it handy. steve Diagnostic flowchart for a car that won't start 97-2003.doc

stumbled across this and thought it might be helpful to someone here at some point in some timespace-string theory kinda way..... i laminated page 2 and am keeping it handy. steve Diagnostic flowchart for a car that won't start 97-2003.doc

You gotta isolate where the 'clicking' is actually coming from. Just saying 'i have a clicking noise in my engine bay' is not enough info to make a diagnosis. I agree 2002% with 'Clean All Connections & Grounds', this is the culprit in a lot of electrical gremlins. Get in there and have a buddy turn the car over so you can determine the source of the clicking, hear it & feel it, then report back. There are a few components that will make a clicking sound. -Voltage regulator -Solenoid -Starter I suspect a stuck solenoid from driving the car only occasionally. on the older/original starter assemblies the solenoid was removable and serviceable, not sure about the new/M3 style's serviceability........ if it is the solenoid that's stuck, you may be able to free it up by vigorously tapping the solenoid with a wood block and big hammer. HTH! "Keeping the Classics Alive. One Vintage BMW at a Time" [/i]

Doing full brakes rebuild currently. Any input/advice/knowledge of being able to swap out that dual headed monster that is tthe stock of 'sistered' individual front/rear master cylinders setup with possibly a single, dual circuit brake master from another model? Maybe from an e3 or e12.... Any NK owners with a bavaria n a spare mstr cyl to compare the mounting & pushrod to replace the main cylinder on a 68 2000 or similar Or, is it swap the entire booster n master cylinder altogether with a later model's? I've read her and elsewher about upgrading the front calipers to those from an e32 or e34. Single line~ four calipers? Is that what I want for the front brake upgrade?. Thanks in advance I searched! I swear I did.... Came up with nada on this topic. Steve

After discovering the dreaded NLA attached to the original brake cylinders part # for my '68 2000, with no replacement given it was time for research. Someone mentioned somewhere that the e21 cylinders looked identical to those from an NK, so off on the hunt I went. Part # 34211117104 is an ABSOLUTE IDENTICAL MATCH. My local dealer (Bellevue BMW) wanted the OUTRAGEOUS amount of $176.00 ---- EACH!!!!!!!!!!! So. I called Steve at BluntTech for a realistic quote. - 2 ATE, O.E.M., BMW labeled cylinders shipped to my desk for $58.00!!!!!! (don't forget to order the 4 bolts and washers, too--- i forget to) If you are not utilizing Steve at BluntTech for your vintage bmw parts needs you are throwing money away! If you start using Steve at BluntTech from this recommendation, i only request that you split the savings with me 50/50. (haha) Rear brakes this week, front brakes this weekend. Initial test drive soon. Keeping the classics alive. One vintage BMW at a time.

anyone here?

anyone here?

Hi Jeff- I'll be heading to Lake Oswego from Seattle for turkey weekend. LMK if i can stop by and help clear some shelf space for you. I'm not after a lot, a few bits n pieces, i mainly want to get a rear door drivers-side door panel in blue. and possibly a drivers door glass. you can email me: stevecarlisle1 (AT) gmail (dot) com Thanks! Steve

Thanks guys- these pics are actually from 3 weeks ago when first brought home and after just the initial scrub-down. i'll maybe get some fresh pics up this weekend, as i've cleaned and waxed most of the paint now, plus the interior, trunk and engine bay are all much cleaner now. @kiva -still hoping to get us some good weather and have you out to check her over. @KTM -i'm looking to replace the missing front flaps, let me know if you find extras. @Norm -i respect your angst on wheels. i think '02s should at the most have 14" (maybe 15") period correct aftermarket. not 17" bling. @bjbarbieri -i've followed your blog. nice find there. great to see another one saved! you're a couple weeks, and one heckuva great wife/helper ahead of me. you have the elusive 'dreamgirl'. a lady that'll help wash varmint-crud out of a 50 year old car and go p/u beer & thai food afterwards... Give that gal a hug for me! @Tiitouring -thanks for the tip, i actually employed it a bit last nite in my effort, seemed to create some movement. for now door is still stuck (see below) thanks, again, guys. this weekend is going to be only semi-productive on the car, lots of other stuff happening. -i am going to put fresh gas in the tank and try to run it out a bit. -try to start on brake system rebuild. -i started on the stuck door last night, sprayed some lube down inside the window above the ext. door handle, and inside at the lock mechanism. it seems like the outside pushbutton does not actuate anything, totally free when pushed but it does spring back. the inside handle has a really 'corroded-resistance' feel to it and i don't want to pull on it too hard for fear of breaking something. the inside lock button moves, but not freely and feels like it goes all the way down but not all the way up. i took the ashtray assembly out an cut a slit in the barrier to try to peek inside, but needed to find a better mirror and stopped for the night. will work on that a bit more tonite. have a great one! steve

(said in my best Gene Wilder/Young Frankenstein voice) Just wanted to post a quick follow up progress report on my new 1968 Euro 2000. vin#13462xx. I've been busy fixing and cleaning a decade of neglect away. Found deep in the forests of Carnation, WA about a month ago it was covered in fir and cedar tree droppings along with the obligatory layers of moss and mold, and had not been licensed in 11 years. A few good weekends and a couple nights a week of work is starting to show. The buddies think it's cool and the wifey is even starting to take a liking to it, but the BIG news is... wait for it.... I was able to get it fired up this weekend!!! Just ran it for a minute to confirm that it would actually fire. The engine sounds decent so far. FWIW, i squirted kroil into the cylinders thru the sparkplug holes about two weeks ago, let it sit for a week and then did a complete top-end hand lube- removed valve cover and worked fresh oil everywhere using a sponge paintbrush. hand turned it with a 30mm deep-socket on the crank just to see what was there. it turned nicely... tight, but loose. just for kicks i kroiled the cylinders a little bit more and rotated the crank several times in an effort to get lubed as deeply as possible, re-saturating the top-end with the fresh golden nectar as i turned the engine several times.. next i'll go through all the individual components and replace all hoses and fluids prior to tuning it, but this is a huge step forward as you never know what you're getting into when buying a non-runner. some other stuff with her... I've fixed the dangling front bumper, the middle section was bent and dented a bit, was able to gently massage it back to decent shape. some large c-clamps, blocks of hardwood and some creative tweaking and it's presentable now... still has a small wrinkle that i couldn't remove. I replaced the cabin/heater-box air intake gasket, i found that the trunk gasket from an e36 works great for this. the old gasket was dry/torn/broken/crumbling, just happened to have the a decent used trunk gasket from my '95 m3, slipped it on and trimmed to fit. looks great now and seals very well. the profile of the e36 weatherstrip is very close to the NK's, the main difference is that the the top section (the business end of it) is now a complete "O" as opposed the the nk's which is more of a "C". it's a great upgrade/replacement for NLA rubber. at some point it had mudflaps at all 4 corners, sadly only the rear two remain. they are in really good shape though. the support cross bars for the fronts are still in place with only small remnants of the old flaps. next up---- -brake system & wheel bearings rebuild. -tune engine. replace a few bulbs here n there. -clean and clean some more..... -at some point i'm going to have to look at the non-op rear door. (thanks to those that have offered suggestions... i think i'm going to head down the path that 'moebiius' provided to begin with. down thru the window channel and work from the top with gettin' down in there somehow and popping it open) attached are a few pics of the new ride. Best to all! Steve C.

the spring perces on my front struts are rusted through. these are for a 1968 2000 NK sedan. I believe any perches from most of the 60's/70's era bimmers will work for me to repair these NLA strut housings. anyone in the seattle area have a pair of front strut assemblies to get rid of? i need to cut the perches off of your donors and weld them on to my NK strut housings. or, has anyone gone to coilovers and removed the old spring perches and still have them to get rid of? Thanks! steve stevecarlisle1 AT gmail DOT com

Looking for a pair of intake manifolds to install dual sidedraft carbs to an m10. Thanks! steve stevecarlisle1 AT gmail DOT com

Hello all- Steve-o here. I'm the one that purchased this cool NK. I've had a bunch of bmw's thru the years,,, 02's, e9 coupes, Bavarias and many more, but this is my first NK and I'm fired up about it. It's a Euro 1968 2000. Originally from Sweden, came with a load of Swedish docs and even the original Swedish owners manual and literature and a BMW Club Schweden decal in the rear window. Plus it's got the cool rectangle headlights! It's actually in pretty decent shape throughout. Totally stock and original (even the original Chamonix paint, in decent shape) and VERY complete... A few minor blemishes and a lot of grime. But straight as rail and only a few rust spots, its got the rusty vertical stripe at back-edge of one front fender and a couple small rusty sections of the rockers, but not too bad/cancerous and definitely safe for driving. It has not run in 5 years but was stored well. The interior is in really great shape. beautiful wood dash, and the vinyl & gauges are perfect. The velour seats without headrests are nice and very comfy, no bad sag or wear. All glass is in fine shape and all windows work.And headliner is very nice, except for the light layer of mold. My plan is to bring it back to life. I'm going to keep it bone stock and original patina'd. Get it running/driving reliably well and enjoy some classic BMW cruising. It will be a lot of small projects to bring this back to driving condition. I'll be getting busy on it soon and will certainly have many questions for the NK Gurus here. I will try to keep up with posting progress and pics. The rear drivers side door does not work/open from either inside or out... any ideas how to get it open to fix? The headliner is covered in a light mold... What's the best way to bring this back to a nice clean white? Parts that I know I need are: -both front turn signals -Front kidney grill. Thanks in advance for any help that you may provide. I'm very excited to get started on this great new project. Best regards to all! Steve

I took the attached pic of the Alpina factory into photoshop and came up with the following formulas: RGB= 113/202/76 CMYK= 57/0/92/0 Some vinyl colors that are close: 3M = apple green Arlon = #79 Kiwi Hope this helps. Steve

i did this earlier this year to my '74. search under my user name... '3nsahalee' and you'll see my post on 'front bumperettes done'. there is a few pics there from a couple different seattle guys that ironically came up with the same concept at nearly the same time. they do have to be trimmed, and i folded new mounting tabs from some of the excess metal. not too many pics of the process, but you can figure out a good way to make it work.

I shortened the shocks and made custom mount brackets using the later bumper parts. Welded the newly fabbed brackets to the shortened shocks and the result is a very clean install with no new holes in the body. It's a much more stout mount as well..I drilled and compressed shocks, used a recip saw with good metal blade to cut the shocks' tops down, (a slight angle is needed),and the old mounting brackets to size, a bit of shaping on the grinder, had to drill new elongated hole for bumper bolt, welded them together, rust proofed the new assy and finished it in matte black.

i've considered that same prospect. my thought was possibly a 'cap' of sorts that would slip over the shock tower and be secured by the shock's top nut. possibly using another car's slightly larger shock tower piece and welding it onto the TEP brace. -not that it totally sucks, but there has to be a better way than what they came up with.

the visors from an e28 are direct bolt in replacements. you will have to grind the pivot pin down about 1/8". no need to relocate the 'catch' or drill new holes into your headliner. they are very firm. black. they look like they belong. also, the plastic of the mounts is a much higher grade/newer technology, they seem to be not so brittle as the old white ones. i am not a fan of the relocating and having extra holes and the indents from the original 'catch' mounts exposed like the images above. fwiw.