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tinkwithanr

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Everything posted by tinkwithanr

  1. For those interested, here's the quick guide of where to cut so they fit nice and tight.
  2. Message sent Mike, looking forward to it. Jon
  3. Love the Filter King, ones going on the e21 once the Weber thingy is figured out. Evidently there is a version with a return line port as well so you don't have to dead-end into the carbs...
  4. Good thinking Scott. Jason, do you have a gauge on the supply line right before the carbs. Might be worth getting a small one to verify that the supply psi is good (though it's a bit obvious it's lacking from the lean AFR). It does seem like something could be stressing the pump extra hard, whether it's a blockage or extra voltage.
  5. You mention the metal filter before the pump, how long has that been installed? I would try and solve the issue of not being able to blow through the lines and that looks like a good place to start. I have a feeling the issues have been 'death by 1000 papercuts' as opposed to one large smoking gun. With as long as some things sat and other things were used in the 'snob, rust/dirt/debris could have gotten in the system at a few different points and might not necessarily get cleaned out all at once. Not to mention the mysterious 1 psi pump. Now that you've got more pressure pushing the fuel through it can clog up a filter a lot easier. Have you looked in the tank to see what the inside walls look like?
  6. just did mine with a slide hammer and single hook. takes a bit of force all around.. Throw the new bearing in the freezer for 30 minutes. makes it easier to install
  7. If looking through this thread should teach you anything, it's that Andrew takes his time and does the required research in order to make sure anything he puts his name on/goes into this car is only the best. 75duce - that's not to try and bash you or anything, just that taking all the evidence into account I'm going to give Andrew and everyone else tied to this project the benefit of the doubt until proven wrong. Is 0 degrees better than 10, probably. But is it enough to make them not work at all? Time will tell, but I doubt it.
  8. Oh man, that steering wheel is too much. I need to make it out to Monterey to see your car alone.
  9. In the words of Monty Python "I'm not dead yet!" She's not gone or forgotten. And while I've been pulled away physically my mind has been contemplating the next steps. A few small items picked up over the past year: We're just getting started...
  10. Amazing work as always Mikey! And it couldn't be going on a better car.
  11. Love these updates. Did the trans have to be in a specific gear to split the cases? I ran into some issues on my spare G280 when I tried to open it up and I think it was mostly because of that.
  12. Glad to see you still getting at it! Looking forward to the progress with this one.
  13. Hey, I'll gladly take em off your hands! Give me a call or text at *** *** 4696 and we can coordinate. Thanks! -Jon
  14. It's an interesting idea. I know of a few FSAE teams that made something like that for their cars. Basically they made their 4 velocity stacks in 2 pieces, a top and bottom plate. The top plate would slide in and out to match the ideal runner length to the engine's rpm. Though incorporating a system like that with enough change in total length to be worth the effort would be difficult while still keeping it under the hood. I've also though about making a circular runner that would rotate via a stepper or servo motor, changing it's length inside the plenum while not actually taking up more or less space. I just need to look into the effect of the runner length vs. the total plenum volume to see if they would cancel each other out. Oh, and I think you meant longer runners and low rpm and shorter runners at high rpm
  15. Thanks for the kind words. I'm lucky enough to have the time and resources to take on what I have. I hope your going to start a build thread for your project, it sounds like it should be pretty great when it's done. I'll be curious to see how you shoehorn the S54 into the 2002 engine bay, I toyed with that idea for a while but decided to stick with the M20. By the time I'm done it should be putting out a bit more power that the s54 . You are correct, the reason for having the plenum taper off towards the last runner is due to the desire of keeping the charge velocity high. Of course this only applies to plenums that have the intake at the front. If you look at other plenum designs where the intake charge enters in the center it is a completely symmetrical design. My initial design will most likely follow that of the e46 CSL airbox. a quick google search will show that it too follows the tapered design. Mine will most likely be made out of aluminum, but the same idea still applies. That being said I also have some other ideas that I want to start developing if time permits. Afterall, the ITB's are only as good as the flow of air before and after them. There are many more gains to be had.
  16. So I have some good news and some bad news. For the next month or two, I'm afraid progress on Fiona is going to slow down quite a lot. As much as it pains me to admit, the truth is I'm just not going to have that much time to devote to her. That's the bad news. The good news has to do with what will be taking up a majority of my free time for the foreseeable future. Drum roll please..... Meet Heidi, a 1988 E28 M5: I won't get into to much detail in the thread, but she's a very original, very special car that needs some TLC. She sat for about 7 years before I picked her up last night. A few panels have some surface rust like the trunk edge you can see above, but there is nothing cancerous (thank god). The whole body is very solid, and I just need to start sorting out the mechanical systems to get her back on the road. Only 1344 E28 M5's were brought to the states, and '88 was the only year. Because of how rare they are, and how original this one is, it won't be the same type of crazy off the wall build that Fiona has been (and will continue to be). Heidi will be brought back to her former glory, and then driven hard like she was meant to be. This was the first super sedan ever made, and is a piece of BMW's history. I'm really very thankful to have it in my care, and I'll do my best to get her back to where she deserves to be.
  17. Thanks, yup the wheel and dies for the e-wheel and planishing hammer are both from Hoosier Profiles. Ooo Okay. That actually looks a lot better than I thought it would. I'm gonna have to see how that would work with extending up above the trim line. Thanks for the pics.
  18. I know I don't want it to look like this (sorry if this is anyone's personal car, nothing wrong with them just not what I'm going for....) This one is just way to busy, and screens fiberglass aftermarket parts. It also looks very bloated and 'fat'.
  19. Thanks Tommy. Trust me, I'm as curious as you are to see how this is gonna turn out. My hope with these is to retain the aggressive look that box flares normally give an '02, but loose the 'aftermarket' feel that is associated with them. Ideally I want this to look like an OEM solution, much like the e46 M3 has a wider, more aggressive body than the stock coupe while still looking sleek and graceful. I also know what I don't want them to look like, and if it starts to make the car feel bloated or fat as opposed to muscular and sleek, I'll just start over and figure out a new plan of attack. Good eye, those are remnants of a parts car from a couple years ago. They were in such good shape I didn't have the heart to scrap them. Not sure what I'll do with them yet. The shape of a turbo flare more or less, though they will be wider than the original ones. That is the whole reason I'm not using them anymore, they won't cover the wheels and tires. I'm definitely open to overlapping the doors some, though it really just depends on how it looks with all the panels on the car. My next step is to put the doors, hood and trunk back on so I can mock up what I have in my head and see how it looks in the flesh. I think it will really come down to how drastic the flare pulls out from the stock body lines. Any pics of the silver car you're talking about? Don't think I've seen it. They will probably be for sale shortly, though fair warning I don't have the driver side front flare. It's been NLA from bmw for a while now. I was just going to purchase a fiberglass rep from the FAQ store, but hadn't gotten around to it yet.
  20. So knowing what my wheels and tires were going to look like, I've had the idea in the back of my mind that the turbo flares weren't really going to cut it anymore. So I've been slowly adding to my metal working capabilities in case it came to coming up with something on my own. I'm also going to need to make up some parks for the cb350, namely an aluminum tank and seat pan, so I should get plenty of use out of the equipment. I put this planishing hammer together a few weeks ago. This is used to help rough out more drastic shapes, and then you can move on to the english wheel to smooth them out and fine tune them: I've had this bead roller for a while now. It started off as a Harbor Freight cheapo model, but then I added a LOT of reinforcement and some style: Next up is a Beverly Shear. This is used to cut the sheet metal into shape, and it is especially good at complex curves and tight bends that would be much harder with air shears. Then we have a cheap metal brake. I found it for sale locally for dirt cheap, so I picked it up a couple months ago. The plan is to beef it up much like the bead roller, as well as add fingers to make it a true box brake. With the English Wheel pretty much complete (of course I forgot to take a picture with the wheel and dies in place, I'll grab one next time), I wanted to start figuring out what the flares might look like. I'd done some CAD renderings, but they never really did it justice. The best way to judge something is in the real world. So some TIG welding rod and a lot of blue painters tape later, I had a VERY rough idea of what it was going to take to contain the tires. They are a bit hard to really capture with just a picture, which is one of the reasons the CAD renderings never made me that happy. I will say that I'm much more confident now that I've 'seen' the idea on the car. Overall I think these should be pretty original on a 2002. All the flares I've seen before, whether they were pig cheek, box flare, gruppe 2, or turbo flares, is that they always stay below the beltline trim. Which always leaves an awkward transition between the upper and lower sections of the body. My idea with these flares is to keep the main design cues and body shape (the indent that runs below the stainless trim along with the sloping curve that follows below that) while pulling the whole body out to cover the extra track width. The majority of the extra width will be carried by the section of the body directly above the beltline trim, which includes the hood, trunk, and body below the rear windows. There is still a lot of design work and details to work out, including how to mold in the rear bumper, rocker panels, and come up with a new front air dam. But hopefully this design will end up being somewhat unique, while still carrying a strong period/motorsport vibe. I mean honestly, how hard can it be??
  21. Always a good call. Not to give away too much, but I came to the conclusion I'll be needing this in the near future for "things". Kudo's to those that know what it is and what it does.
  22. If you like at the height that the clutch pedal is, you'll see that a brake pedal in roughly the same location would interfere with the steering column. So by having a hanging clutch and floor mounted brake, I'm able to package everything easier. At least that's the plan lol.
  23. As fun as it's been fitting the rear wheels, I've come to the conclusion that the front is gonna be even more 'fun'. To start I threw the front tires on and got to work trimming the front of the wheel wells. Sadly this meant cutting into my custom front mounts, but I can always make more. Here you can see the area along the bottom that needed to be trimmed. I still need to remove the springs from the coils and check that it will clear lock to lock under full compression, but it seems to be in the ballpark. This meant that I could turn my focus to the rear of the front wheel wells. The passenger side was simple enough, trim away sheet metal until the tire doesn't hit anymore. In the end the passenger will loose a little bit of leg room, but I don't think I'll be sitting over there that much lol. I still need to take the cuts a bit higher to account for suspension compression, but it shouldn't need to be any higher than the outer fender brace at the top of the pic. View from passenger side. Not to intrusive. Next up was the driver side. To be honest I've been kind of avoiding working on this section just because I hadn't really though of a way to do it properly yet. The main problem: It's not entirely clear from the pic, but the clutch master cylinder and the tire wanted to occupy the same space. And seeing as my thesis on 4th dimensional physics has taken a back seat to this project, I had to figure out a different place for the clutch master. A few ideas had gone through my mind, from angling the clutch pedal (bad idea) to making a special linkage to raise the master cylinder up and over. I really wasn't satisfied with this idea either. It would add extra complexity that I didn't need, wouldn't save that much space, and to top it all off as soon as the tire cleared the master cylinder it would start hitting the pedal mount itself. This was the best picture I could get of the interference. The fact I couldn't get a better one just goes to show how tight things are in there. Then I got an idea. I took a couple measurements, said some prayers, and took a saw to my pretty pedal assembly.... Turning this: Into this: Which then let's the tire do this: With the master cylinder now sitting here, snuggly in the engine compartent: With the pictures out of the way, some more technical jargin. You may have noticed how close the clutch pedal now looks to the brake. That's a combination of a few things. First, the camera angle exaggerates it due to the fact the clutch pedal was positioned much further forward compared to the brake and gas. This can easily be adjusted in the linkage, I just didn't bother at the time. Second, the clutch pedal isn't sitting square to the firewall due to the fact that I reused existing holes in the firewall to mock the pedal in place. Once I finalize where I need it to go I'll weld in a new, reinforced section of steel to make sure the pedal is securely mounted. The thin gauge material that's there now wouldn't really cut it. Another concern I had initially was that the floor mounted brake and gas pedals wouldn't travel along the same path as the clutch, resulting in an awkward feel from the pedals. However, after testing them, the path of travel is remarkably similar. Plus the fact that the clutch will always be operated with your left foot, and the brake + gas pedals with your right, I don't see it being an issue. I'm sure the setup will need some more fine tuning, and I'll need to add some stronger mounting points for the clutch pedal (all of the mounts for the original 3-pedal setup were left on the brake-gas assembly), but overall I think it will end up being a simple and effective solution. And with that I'll just leave a few pics as she sits now. The more I look at the front turbo dam, the more I think it's not wide enough anymore... Thanks for looking!
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