ibewebbman

facepalm I see it now...

1. my recollection is they are close to vertical 2. I did not use zip ties - the foam on the roof seems to hold the bows fine for me as i stretched it and its held up for years now - otherwise I followed clays post pretty much verbatim - its very good 3. I dont recal any washers at all - I just replaced all the grommets with new one

even nicer CNC!

Well I am gaining on it! The float on the front carb was a problem that seems to be resolved now - I do think there is something to the "plastic float in an original brass float carb" in terms of float height adjustments. Seems like close to 14 mm from the front of the float is the place the floats are roughly parallel carb top, in all the searching I did about this it seems that that was the one thing I could identify that was reasonably consistent - 12mm seem too high for what I have... thats my theory for now anyway...this might be one of the few places on this car 2mm matters ? Also cleaned up some linkage issues - there was some slop in the sync levers that I needed to address - these are weber parts! I dont know if it normal to have to bend and tweak stuff on the linkage set ups, but I did, and I got it working better. got it started and afr is 11.5 - 12.5! So happy to make progress - I feel like this might be successful after all! SO in summary - several issues identified and addressed so far: 1. Fuel Pressure - running about 2-2.5lbs now down from 4-4.5 - I may try pulling the regulator out just to see if it was my floats all along or both - but I'll run it at 2.5lbs permanently. 2. Floats adjusted to 14/24 3. Lots of linkage stiction and tweaking - throttle shaft tight on one carb etc - just to be clear for those of you paying close attention - I am using @halboyleskit and all the issues I have are NOT related to his stuff. I would recommend his kit. Next up - re connect all the linkage a drive it - I'll report back with AFR numbers.

Update - I did not have much time today but I did check and adjust the floats - these carbs are series 8 which I think originally came with brass floats. I saw somewhere the float attachment to the carb top plate on the brass floats version is longer than the top plate that originally came with plastic and now that I have plastic floats that needs to be compensated for a bit. Lots of conflicting info on this subject - measurement location etc - even weber authored info seems to conflict often... The front carb was set a bit high either way so I lowered it a bit to 14/25mm ( I was at 12 and I think that may be correct for the newer plastic float carb top version?) measured from the front of the float to top of carb body with gasket. I was getting some weeping at the inlet fuel filter on this carb so I hope this clears that up. The rear I have not had this problem with since I set the floats last but I checked it anyway and made a smaller adjustment. They match now at least I also played with the linkage a bit more and hopefully improved it. Knowing I will need a long term fuel pressure solution I ordered a filter king / malpassi unit but that wont keep me from making progress. I should be able to start the car tomorrow and will report back. Again many thanks to all of you for your thoughtful help! Alex

@ Chris_b and @ Hans - sorry that was not clear on progression holes - I have 3 progression holes per barrel - the first one is covered and this is consistent across all 4 barrels of both carbs - sorry for the poor choice or verbiage describing this initially.

Ok guys, I spent some time going through the carbs today. I need to spend some more time investigating but thanks to you all I am making progress! so far: 1. After inspecting the progression holes I found that indeed I had something hanging up - thanks @TobyB ! I disconnected all the linkage and removed the idle speed screws completely. I now have one of the 3 holes in each barrel covered with everything just sitting there disconnected. Is this right? 2. Started the engine with mixture screws out 1.5 turns out won’t idle really anymore and it is clearly not running the same as before with the linkage disconnected and I am getting the fuel weeping issue at the carb filter still ...so 3. Fuel pressure measurement time! fuel pressure seems to be about 4 psi, I measured this by putting a craftsman vac/pressure gauge off a T from the fuel line. Once I saw this number I dug an old pressure regulator out and stuck it inline and dialed it back to 1.5 on the regulator but it still showing around 3psi on the gauge so not sure how effective the regulator is BUT the motor seems happier! AFR is all over the place at idle but in the 11-12 range now and gets leaner at higher rpm! So do you guys think we are on to something here? I had to leave it there for today. I am going to double check float levels next, I’d measured 23/24mm using the zip tie method through the e tube but is go8ngvto pull the tops off and check them again. Any thoughts on gong to 175 on the needles while I’m in there? I’m at 200 now @Son of Marty cold start has been eliminated

@2002Scoobwow thanks for the details! Actually thank you all! This place is awesome, probably half the reason I like these cars so much? I will be able to get back in the garage tomorrow and work through some of this, I’ll report back and yes I’ll drive it...

@Stevenc22I can actually close the mixture screw and there is no effect! I’ll try disconnecting the linkage. Once warm it will idle at 1000 rpm or so, it’s got to be pulling fuel off another circuit somehow. how big are your chokes? Could mine just be too small? I have never seen below 10 on mine? I am assuming a larger choke would slow the air down to a lower number on the meter but increase volume, is that correct?

@StevenolaI’d like to do that but shouldn’t I be able to get it to at least 12:1 at idle in the garage before I subject others to this ? I mean it’s freakin disgusting. the mains should not even be in play at all at idle from what i understand...and my air is big for the main already so I’m kind of expecting once i get the idle circuit sorted I’ll be lean under load

Thanks guys, @Son of MartyI’ll check fuel pressure tomorrow, I did not think the Bavaria pump put out more than 3psi? But I should definitely check that. @TobyBthese are 40’s with 30mm Venturi, I have them close to sync with the tool you showed. They are not perfect but pulling close to the “10” on the gauge for both carbs. I have been focused on getting the idle set because it’s so rich but it seems the mixture will lean out a little for a short time when I rev it up but goes rich again quickly. I have not road tested it yet it’s so damn rich I can’t imagine driving it yet. I educate myself on progression plugs but are you thinking the throttle plates are out of position?

Folks, I have read and searched and tried to self help but I am stuck and need another set of eyes to zero in on what I am missing. Here is my set up: - 1600 @ 9.5 with 292 built by Korman many years ago - was running pretty well on a weber 32/36 and Bavaria fuel pump when I swapped in a ignition 123 and then it ran better - decided to take this extra time at home and dive into a DCOE conversion - Sent italian dcoe to Carbs Only for rebuild and they came back looking great - I got everything mounted up with halboyles linkage kit and a korman manifold - fired right up and I was super happy until...AFR gauge is at 10:1 on idle! I then proceed to play with timing & idle mixture and finally started to give into changing idle jets and float level check etc - long story as short as possible - here is the current configuration: - Still at 10 / 10.3 -1 AFR with the following - Timing 12 degrees at 1000rpm - Venturi 30 - idle jet F2 45 ( started with F9 then F8) - F11 e tubes - 200 airs - 115 main - plastic float set at 12/25 on the bench and measured fuel from from the etube with a zip tie at 23-24mm / 200 needle The idle mixture screws seem to have little effect so I am missing something here - other than the black smoke and fouled plugs I can get it to run reasonably smoothly Other clues that may help those more experience than I - there seems to be some minor fuel leakage around the small fuel filter inline with the banjo fittings after running awhile - I tightened them bit and it got better but they are a bit wet / weepy. Also after the final try today I noticed once I shut the car off there was some vapor coming out of the hole just above the forward venturi - it was cold? It also was present when I took the jet inspection cover off - this was only on the rear carb... Thanks in advance for any thoughts about what I am missing / things to verify and check. Stay safe all!

I believe the mounting is original, my 68 is identical. Pretty sure the clutch was changed to hydraulic at some point in its life from mechanical.

I have at least 1 set of new pads, maybe 2 for the 1600. If you stay stock and want them - pm me

My experience was that once the original cage nut fails no reasonable amount of effort to replace them was successful. My solution was a drilling all the way through the backing bracket thing that I recall is behind the outer door skin and then a regular nylock nut and fender washer on the inside of the door. There are obviously some pluses and minuses to this but the mirror is rock solid and the amount of finagling once I decided to give up on cage nuts was minimized substantialy.

I have had good success with acetone and red kote, just follow directions and take your time