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  1. Wiring harness is not hacked up - a few missing connectors but overall it seems to be in really good shape. I recall it’s from a 1970 - please see photos - not sure what to ask - don’t want it to go to waste and I have no use for it - $100 shipped ? Make offer...
  2. Better rings look super good, I don’t see any pitting or anything - sorry for delay, I’m not on here as much these days.
  3. Found another box with round light spares- chrome a bit pitted on one set of rings other set it near perfect. $150 shipped conus lenses really good one has a very slight burn mark on the back but you can’t see it at all from the outside. Housings look to be really good - but not tested in the last 20 years
  4. Hi FAQ, I have sold my 1600 and discovered some good stuff that might be of interest. All prices are + shipping or local pick up is great. It has been awhile since i have been looking for parts so prices are best guess - feel free to make reasonable offers via pm. I will try to check in once a day. Steering Box is good and smooth - will probably need gaskets - lots of adjustment left $150 sold pedal box is excellent - just surface rust - $250 sold racemark wheel - make offer sold valve cover - $50 switch - $40 lower rocker trim clips - these are not an easy find from what I recall - $3 each I have at least 20 wheel center cap - make offer early heater valve - cleaned up with new o ring- needs new circlip-$75 well used shop manual - $10 sold ill throw the belt and filter in for whoever wants them with other parts if it fits in the box column pad - sold Roundie brake lights set $150 thanks!
  5. Sorry folks, the description I wrote keeps not showing up in the original post. This is a long term project I decided to sell due to upcoming move and time. Its a 1968 1600 that spent most of its life in California, except for a short time in N Carolina. I am the third owner, the second owned it since mid 70’s until I bought it nearly 10 years ago. it has an older Korman built 1600 with 9.5:1, 292, ignition 123 Bluetooth, etc. it is currently mid Weber dual 40 conversion. Ran very well with 32/36. It has stahl header and ie stainless exhaust. i completely tore the car down for paint, all glass out and new OEM seals were reinstalled. The engine bay was not repainted as I intended this to be a driver but still managed to spend over $8500 on paint alone. It has a new interior including esty carpet,OEM headliner, rebuilt heater box, recaros and the dash was recovered by sin city. parts available Include new st sway bars, 5 speed, lsd, new rear subframe and most bushings to rebuild everything. Wilwood brake kit, rear disk and new hard lines plus a ton of other parts and spares. this is a project best discussed over the phone, if you’re serious please pm me and we can connect.
  6. 1. my recollection is they are close to vertical 2. I did not use zip ties - the foam on the roof seems to hold the bows fine for me as i stretched it and its held up for years now - otherwise I followed clays post pretty much verbatim - its very good 3. I dont recal any washers at all - I just replaced all the grommets with new one
  7. Well I am gaining on it! The float on the front carb was a problem that seems to be resolved now - I do think there is something to the "plastic float in an original brass float carb" in terms of float height adjustments. Seems like close to 14 mm from the front of the float is the place the floats are roughly parallel carb top, in all the searching I did about this it seems that that was the one thing I could identify that was reasonably consistent - 12mm seem too high for what I have... thats my theory for now anyway...this might be one of the few places on this car 2mm matters 😆 Also cleaned up some linkage issues - there was some slop in the sync levers that I needed to address - these are weber parts! I dont know if it normal to have to bend and tweak stuff on the linkage set ups, but I did, and I got it working better. got it started and afr is 11.5 - 12.5! So happy to make progress - I feel like this might be successful after all! SO in summary - several issues identified and addressed so far: 1. Fuel Pressure - running about 2-2.5lbs now down from 4-4.5 - I may try pulling the regulator out just to see if it was my floats all along or both - but I'll run it at 2.5lbs permanently. 2. Floats adjusted to 14/24 3. Lots of linkage stiction and tweaking - throttle shaft tight on one carb etc - just to be clear for those of you paying close attention - I am using @halboyleskit and all the issues I have are NOT related to his stuff. I would recommend his kit. Next up - re connect all the linkage a drive it - I'll report back with AFR numbers.
  8. Update - I did not have much time today but I did check and adjust the floats - these carbs are series 8 which I think originally came with brass floats. I saw somewhere the float attachment to the carb top plate on the brass floats version is longer than the top plate that originally came with plastic and now that I have plastic floats that needs to be compensated for a bit. Lots of conflicting info on this subject - measurement location etc - even weber authored info seems to conflict often... The front carb was set a bit high either way so I lowered it a bit to 14/25mm ( I was at 12 and I think that may be correct for the newer plastic float carb top version?) measured from the front of the float to top of carb body with gasket. I was getting some weeping at the inlet fuel filter on this carb so I hope this clears that up. The rear I have not had this problem with since I set the floats last but I checked it anyway and made a smaller adjustment. They match now at least I also played with the linkage a bit more and hopefully improved it. Knowing I will need a long term fuel pressure solution I ordered a filter king / malpassi unit but that wont keep me from making progress. I should be able to start the car tomorrow and will report back. Again many thanks to all of you for your thoughtful help! Alex
  9. @ Chris_b and @ Hans - sorry that was not clear on progression holes - I have 3 progression holes per barrel - the first one is covered and this is consistent across all 4 barrels of both carbs - sorry for the poor choice or verbiage describing this initially.
  10. Ok guys, I spent some time going through the carbs today. I need to spend some more time investigating but thanks to you all I am making progress! so far: 1. After inspecting the progression holes I found that indeed I had something hanging up - thanks @TobyB ! I disconnected all the linkage and removed the idle speed screws completely. I now have one of the 3 holes in each barrel covered with everything just sitting there disconnected. Is this right? 2. Started the engine with mixture screws out 1.5 turns out won’t idle really anymore and it is clearly not running the same as before with the linkage disconnected and I am getting the fuel weeping issue at the carb filter still ...so 3. Fuel pressure measurement time! fuel pressure seems to be about 4 psi, I measured this by putting a craftsman vac/pressure gauge off a T from the fuel line. Once I saw this number I dug an old pressure regulator out and stuck it inline and dialed it back to 1.5 on the regulator but it still showing around 3psi on the gauge so not sure how effective the regulator is BUT the motor seems happier! AFR is all over the place at idle but in the 11-12 range now and gets leaner at higher rpm! So do you guys think we are on to something here? I had to leave it there for today. I am going to double check float levels next, I’d measured 23/24mm using the zip tie method through the e tube but is go8ngvto pull the tops off and check them again. Any thoughts on gong to 175 on the needles while I’m in there? I’m at 200 now @Son of Marty cold start has been eliminated
  11. @2002Scoobwow thanks for the details! Actually thank you all! This place is awesome, probably half the reason I like these cars so much👍 I will be able to get back in the garage tomorrow and work through some of this, I’ll report back and yes I’ll drive it...
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