CharlieG

Think I've got some decent "non-burnt" (long story) spares hanging around. I'll test today.

Wires are <year old, starting fluid nogo, or, more realistically, same effect as just regular gas. Spec'ed out all the parts to replace the innards on the vac advance dizzy and it came out to around ~150 bucks. For that price, 180 for a brand new unit from IE seems right on the money.

There's *some* semblance of spark, as it tries to fire, kicks a few, and struggles, it'll barely kick over and keep going with the throttle fully depressed. Set to TDC, checked gap, etc. Everything seems correct. I had a similar but not quite the same issue with this dizzy in the past, grounding issues. From everything I can tell, it's an OEM '76 Vac advance unit. Going to go nuclear option and ordered a new 008 with electronic ignition from IE.

Closes when cold, opens wide when gas depressed. Obviously not able to test "hot" as the car won't run. Frustratingly, it's probably the distributor acting up again.

Update: Cooler temps today, car has been sitting inside a garage for the past 24 hours. Went to crank, it struggles, with pedal fully depressed it starts to catch, starts to almost fire, but struggles and still dies.

Gruppe, I'll get the basics out of the way. '76, mostly stock M10 motor, desmogged. Stock vaccuum advance dizzy, mechanical points, standard OEM-ish coil less than a year old. Stock mechanical fuel pump of indeterminate age, replaced at some point, but never by me in the ~5 years I've owned the car. Weber 38/38 downdraft carb, electric choke, new as of September 2013. Had a no-start symptom a year ago that ended up being the little grounding wire inside the dizzy on the advance plate. Cleared that up and car has run fine since then, with the only issue being if it sits for a few days. Car will take 25-30 seconds to crank, and then fire. Once started up, I can shut it off and it fires back up no issues. If I start the car every day, it's fine, minimal crank time. Let it sit a week or so, issue returns. This issue also seems to occur after I've run it for a while, park and try and start back up - aka stop in to the store for 30 minutes or so. I've also noticed on long road trips it does start to stumble a bit after a few hours of highway driving. So, on the surface I'm thinking fuel issue. Anyways, took it out this weekend from inside the garage, fired up fine, drove it around for a couple of hours, ran great. Left it parked outside overnight, came back outside the next day. Now, hot weather, ~85 degrees or so, direct sunlight ,so the car is definitely hot. Go to fire it up, and car just cranks, cranks and cranks. Nothing. Pull dizzy cap off, check grounding wire, adjust that, nothing. Play with timing a little bit, nothing. If I advance it a good bit, it tries to fire when I hold the throttle down, but won't stay running. With the engine off, I can give it gas and there's definitely fuel coming into the carb, so I'm not quite sure which way to go. So, on first guess, I'm thinking the fuel pump has finally given up the ghost. Going to go ahead and order a fresh mechanical one and all the trimmings, but just wanted to toss it out there to see if any one had any other ideas. Thanks. -Charlie

Hate to say it, but I imagine he might be busy that weekend.. -Charlie

*raising hand* '76 Granatrot here, out by the Hilliard area. We've got a few around here. Check the post a few down about the Vintage at Mid Ohio, gonna do a little meet and drive there. -Charlie

Keep the car, sell the 5 speed and some goodies for a down payment, get one of these: http://www.mazdausa.com/MusaWeb/displayPage.action?pageParameter=modelsMain&vehicleCode=MZ2#/home Or... http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/searchresults.jsp?lastBeginningStartYear=1981&num_records=25&search_lang=en&page_location=findacar%3A%3Aispsearchform&search_type=both&distance=100&address=94109&marketZipError=false&make=MINI&model=COOPER&make2=&start_year=1981&end_year=2013&min_price=1&max_price=15000&seller_type=b&transmission=&engine=&drive=&doors=&fuel=&max_mileage=&color=&keywordsrep=&keywordsfyc=&keywords_display=&sort_type=priceDESC&body_code=0&certified=&advanced=&highlightFirstMakeModel=&showZipError=y&default_sort=priceDESC&systime=&isFlashPlugin=true&sownerid=66656547&dma=SAN_FRANCISCO-OAK-SAN_JOSE_NO&rdm=1331151991595 -Charlie

I'd say it looks like a Karmann Ghia. -Charlie

Not exactly an apt comparison. Outside of the AWD components, oil pan and strut towers, an E30 ix is the same as a non-AWD E30. The X1 is the crossover/small SUV version of the 1 series. Related in the same way an X3 is related to a 3 series. Based off of the same platform, but pretty much different cars. About 6-8 inches taller, longer, more ground clearance and interior space. -Charlie

Psst, the BPR6ES are coppers. -Charlie

Speaking of, anyone wanna badger lynx to start making these again, or just come up with a reasonable facsimile? DGV to DCOE adapter, El Cheapo single sidedraft mod. -Charlie

According to the importation numbers, Granatrot was actually pretty rare in the states, looks like 300 of them were imported from 74-76 And yea, CD, you're correct, that's a faded Granatrot car, looks identical to mine. -Charlie

Gruppe, Got one here. Weber 32/36 DG(e?)v carb with a manual choke on it. Got a broken piece that renders it no longer able to adjust the butterflies on the choke/carb via the cable. Upon inspection it appears to be the little piston-ish arm as show in the picture, as it's sliding all around and appears to have no connetion to anything anymore, looks like it has seperated. Exhibit: http://www.charliegrafton.com/pics/2002/carb/chokepart.jpg Yea, huge pic and highlighted. So, I've been poking around the pierce manifolds site, and I have struck out on trying to figure just WTF this part is considered, and how I would go about ordering a replacement. Can anyone take a look and try to point me in the right direction? Thanks -Charlie

Voila. -Charlie

Be a good car if they ever do a remake of Quadrophenia.. -Charlie

Stock center section? Mine is disentegrating, and is absolutely atrocious at about 2700 RPM. Kinda embarassing. It's the same metal on metal rattling. -Charlie

Sadly, that probably would have been the case on any BMW with modern huge wheels if you get a flat out in east bumblef*ck, run flats or not. The 10/hr monkeys down here at discount tire can mount a runflat, so not sure why others couldn't. A lot of shops just won't touch anything larger than a 17 or 18 these days, so you run in to lots of problems. -Charlie

What is the fascination with a '72 specifically? Outside of the swappable bumper parts, pretty much everything from a 70-73 is the same. Finding a set of stock springs and 13 inch steelies isn't hard if you want to get the stock floaty ride back. Swap the bumpers to a 72 and you'll have a car that 95% of people wouldn't be able to ID year wise without the VIN anyway. As for runflats, if you're going on a long cruise with the car, who cares? The modern ones that BMW has been using the last few years are fine. They ride smooth enough and don't tramline like crazy like the old ones did. They still kinda suck on real twisty stuff, but it's not a deal breaker. Besides, it's nothing 800-1000 bucks and a trip to tire rack can't fix. -Charlie

If everything is stock, just disconnect the sway bar, disconnect the rear shocks, and run a spring compressor or two to knock the spring down a little, a prybar helps and they'll pop right out. -Charlie

How did the shop verify "lost compression"? Did they actually run a test? You don't have nikasil, that issue only affected the early 3 & 4 litre V8s, and was pretty apparent by 20-30k miles. The heads were either replaced or the issue wasn't present. What was the car actually doing to you? -Charlie

FYI, that video is from Rfactor for the PC, using the 2002 Mod released a few months back: http://www.virtualr.net/bmw-2002-tii-for-rfactor-released/ -Charlie

YEEEEAUH. -Charlie

Earl, What sorta linkage you running on that setup, got any more pics? -Charlie