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  1. Hmm, ok so this post (http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,0/page,viewtopic/t,316579/sid,90b4b7952f6cd57d821d6343ba9cc35f/) says that there are two different types of chrome seam covers for the two different types of Euro rear bumpers. I'm guessing the '71 and earlier type w/no rubber trim and shortie ends have no grooves while the '72-'77 for rubber trim w/long ends are grooved to fit the rubber strip, but both may be interchangeable aside from looking strange...
  2. Thanks for the very detailed reply, Mike! Forgot to mention that I was asking about the rear bumper only. So for all of the rear bumpers, are both the bumper guards and chrome seam covers compatible and interchangeable? It sounds like there were some differences between the front US and Euro bumper guards, but is there only one type of rear bumper guard for both markets? What about the chrome seam covers? Are they compatible with US and Euro rear bumpers and are they the same for the long and short end types?
  3. Been trying to sort through the info on this board and am posting to find out if anyone can definitively answer my questions about these bumpers and point out where my assumptions may be wrong (or right). From what I've read, it looks like there are 2 types of early chrome US bumpers and 2 types of early chrome Euro bumpers with either long or short ends. From what I've seen, both the long US and Euro bumpers have holes for the rubber trim, and the shorties don't. From what it looks like to me, the US bumpers and Euro bumpers have the same end pieces for both the long and short ends. The difference seems to be in the center pieces, where the Euro bumpers have extra holes on the top for the license lights. So in short: US version: type 1: long ends w/trim holes + center section w/trim holes type 2: short ends + center section (no trim holes on either) Euro version: type 1: long ends w/trim holes + center section w/trim & license holes type 2: short ends + center section w/license holes (no trim holes on either) My questions: - Are US type 1 long ends the same as Euro type 1 long ends? - Are US type 1 short ends the same as Euro type 1 short ends? - Are the form factors of all center sections the same (thereby allowing you to freely mix and match ends)? If not, what pieces are compatible with what?
  4. Just read through your whole blog today and wow, your car is AMAZING, both the body and interior! Really impressed with your center console; I can't believe you fabricated the entire thing from scratch... even the shift plate! What did you use/do to fashion the boot base ring?
  5. Hey Eric, it's fiberglass and just on from the top. It's very light and is really on there. Initially Colin was going to make a bracket for the bottom, but it may not be necessary as it really doesn't feel like it's going anywhere...
  6. Spoiler is on! Though the rivet nut tool we ordered never arrived, after some trial and error we managed to rig up something to get them in. So here it is, all bolted up and nearly ready to go!
  7. Hey Jim, thanks for asking! I guess it's about time for a photo update. The hood is finally on after some trouble getting the torsion bar on correctly. Here it is after a lot of sanding and the first round of polishing... The car's been sitting out here in the driveway for quite some time now so pardon the dirtiness. We need to do a few small touch ups and do more polishing before giving it a thorough wash! We also reinstalled the front windshield and seal this past weekend to get it seated in better. The lockstrip installation was surprisingly much easier than expected and we didn't have too much trouble with it, except for the very last bit getting the cap into the seal. The end is in sight!
  8. Unfortunately KFunk, I am not so kind of a human being as to be so forgiving and understanding when treated in such a manner. I usually like to wait for the apology and if it never comes, then my negative opinion usually stays. Good for you though if you can see it from the other side in such a situation. Anyway I do agree with dubois' point that the guys at salvage places, body shops, garages, etc. tend to be a bit "rough around the edges." The places themselves serve a purpose, yes. However, educating the staff to service their purpose would be such a boon to the business that I'm surprised it isn't standard practice, and I don't agree that I should be accepting/tolerant of rudeness just because it may be the norm. I'm not afraid to post negative reviews, and I will make an effort to contact the owner. That's how things change in this day and age, and it would be better all around for everyone if they did... I realize that I did call Ed at the other salvage place in Berkeley (via his Craigslist post) before getting the $75 quote and while on the phone with me he walked to where his stuff was at to check actual pieces, specifically telling me about each piece of glass that he did have in stock. I think he told me he had only one that was pretty good and it was unbranded and I could have it for $100. While I didn't want to take a chance with unbranded glass, I did appreciate that he was straightforward, made the effort, and saved me time. I thought this was the norm and didn't think of mentioning it. Double 02 was the next place I called and $75 sounded so great to me that I was content to stop checking, so I would in fact have bought it from them and they would have had my both this sale and a fender sale. Customer service can pay off more than once, you see. As for knowing that a brand new piece of glass can run just a little over $100, I wouldn't assume this is common knowledge. When checking yesterday many glass shops didn't carry glass for a car this old, and the prices also varied really wildly from $100-$200.
  9. Sorry KFunk, I can't agree with you at all. I agree with Blunt. When is it ever profitable for a shop owner/representative NOT to be courteous and helpful? Honoring prior quotes and being helpful via phone is definitely an asset. I've been to this place in person twice actually just to look around and get a few quotes (was far too pricey for my tastes), and both times I've seen at least 3 guys behind the counter standing around just talking to each other. Surely at least one of them can be bothered to go check some stock for a potential customer...? Is it not their JOB? If the place can hire 3 guys to stand around and shoot the shit with each other and walk-ins, then damn, they must be doing oh-so-well and I guess they just don't need my money (or yours for that matter!). In fact I would have bought a decent piece of used glass from them for their original quoted $75 and also a fender, and now I will not only go out of my way to not give them my business, but I also posted here in the hopes of deterring other potential customers. And even if KFunk's wild postulating were true, shouldn't this dude have explained the misquote in a more polite and straightforward way (please refer to original post)? Shouldn't he also have been honest about the actual pricing and availability instead of giving me the rapidly upward shifting number treatment? And obviously, given that it has been possible for me to find several vendors selling BRAND NEW PPG glass at a mere $110, considering the price of USED questionable-quality/brand glass at Double 02, I don't think the first guy who quoted me $75 would lose this place any money! Honestly, after this interaction it would be pretty surprising if I were to give this guy the benefit of the doubt, don't you think?
  10. Ebay's pretty cut and dry. The price and presumably item details are explicitly displayed the entire time. Perhaps that may be the best way to get what you want from them, and dealing with them through the phone is pretty worthless because you never know who or what you'll get when you actually show up at the store which is all that matters. For all I know there's just one *** in the store and I happened to talk to him. My frustration lies as much in his price gouging tactics as well as his rudeness. However if it is the case that they're so inconsistent in both pricing and stock, I simply wish to not be misled. If they were to tell me or somehow make it known that they are unfortunately unable to quote pricing or check stock over the phone, it would be annoying but still understandable. So anyway, I guess the consensus is that 02 Salvage over ebay = great; in person = sometimes good, sometimes bad; over the phone = worthless. Good to know. Thanks for the feedback, everyone!
  11. Ouch! That's some serious price gouging! Reminds me of the time I asked about bumpers (the big ones) and was quoted $50 for a single shock (wish I'd seen this deal). Maybe as a forum we should consider compiling a list of suggested price ranges. I mean a bit of a markup is understandable, but some USED part prices are plain unfair! Exactly, I don't see how they are so nonchalant about expecting us to drive out there blind. I expect some mixed reviews on this place certainly; I'm not suggesting that every representative is an ass... but the above is my true account and either way their pricing policy does seem suspect here. I half expect the guy I spoke to on the phone to be the owner. I may just call up again to see if I can find out.
  12. So the car is looking sweeter than we could ever have imagined! There are a few small touch-ups to make, but the horrifyingly expensive 3M polishing and glazing compound (did not expect that to cost so much!) and laborious hand sanding have really given us some excellent results! Pics will have to come later as Colin wants to wash the car before showing it off here. The back side windows and doors are now back on. If you want to avoid scratching you'll probably need two people for the doors, preferably one person who is fairly strong and one person with small hands as getting those bolts back into the hinge through the small access hole is a real PITA. For the back window and upper part of the door seals we used a blunt screwdriver to push the rubber in which was sort of trickier than we expected! Make sure to tuck/glue the headliner in first and lay the seal down over it. To get the bottom of the door seals on we cleaned the mold release off the seals and then used clear Permatex weatherstripping cement. The tubes they come in are fairly annoying... If you've ever worked with rubber cement this stuff looks, feels, and smells the same, so using a small brush like the kind that comes with rubber cement also works much better to get it to spread evenly. We followed the directions and applied to both surfaces and they're on just fine. Using the glancing blows trick in the windshield install FAQ, we were also able to get the back windshield in ourselves! We're currently shopping around for a front windshield, but if all goes well we'll have a new PPG in by the end of tomorrow. So we'd almost be all done with the body... except that we unfortunately hit a snag with rust in the inside lip of the hood which is unreachable with our tools. Can't find anyone who will agree to sandblast the thing so we reluctantly have to get the hood acid dipped. We're hoping it won't run us more than $150; dropped it off at a local shop yesterday and will have to wait until next week to get it back. Hope the good weather holds out for getting paint on this last piece!
  13. Whoever wrote this really wasn't kidding! The "glancing blows" to hit the glass down (and a bit to the side) really did the trick! I didn't see anyone doing this in the videos but it was IMPOSSIBLE for us without this! So don't be afraid to hit it HARD; just avoid constant direct pressure in any one spot and you'll be fine (I think)!
  14. Hey Grover, thanks for the tip! Calling around right now and prices vary wildly but SF City Glass (http://sfcityglass.com/) offers the LLF for only $110 and PPG only $120! How can 02 Salvage charge $125 for USED glass??! Shocking!
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