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M3M3

Solex
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Everything posted by M3M3

  1. Just a basic Hella relay as used for lights. Nothing special.
  2. for square tail cars, there is another option for a trailer hitch. repurpose the center bumper shock mount. weld a plate and mount for hitch ball to end of it. hangs right below bumper and could be made so it does not stick out to grab shins. I used this concept for a towing eye on my track car. see page 48 in build thread.
  3. bmw+m10+water+neck - Google Search WWW.GOOGLE.COM the common water neck term refers to part that attaches to the head, not intake. is that what you are refering to?
  4. Clutch is not fully releasing. wrong throw out bearing air in the system Clutch fork not on pivot pin or bent Pivot pin damaged
  5. Depends upon how long the straight is on the track you are driving on at that speed. It isn't about aero, it is about the suspension. I could get to 125+ before T1 brake zone at Summit Point in my 02. No real aero aids. Rock solid.
  6. Yup. Loctite and proper tq is all you need. The wire is a decoration at that point.
  7. hilariously bad analogy. you could ask those same passenger car owners anything about their cars besides "where do i plug my phone in?" and you will get the same blank stares..... case wide open. so you are saying if enough people say something that is wrong, that makes it right? kinda like using the abbreviation FLCA or LCA in reference to an E30. there is no Rear control arm. there is no Upper control arm there is just a control arm. it is a CA. the "F" and "L" are not correct. or.....calling a 2002 an E10 (rim shot....) 🙂🤣 back back on topic.....replace the bent strut or buy suspension parts with a smaller diameter spring so the top of the strut can move closer to the strut tower.
  8. instead of relying on buttons or menu choices each time, go to the page you want, then save it in your browser as a favorite. that is what I do. the "unread content" page is my default FAQ page. when i go to my FAQ page bookmark, first thing i get is all the new content on the site. PS - i don't bother with the mobile app. the smart phone browser works just fine.
  9. looks fixed, thanks!!! all is well with the world again.....🤣
  10. Hood pins is the answer. It would take a lot of cutting and fiberglass reinforcement work to redo that hood to support hinges.
  11. the go to page for seeing all the new unread topics across the entire site seems to be not working. activity/unread topics https://www.bmw2002faq.com/discover/unread/ returns error page of This page isn’t working www.bmw2002faq.com is currently unable to handle this request. HTTP ERROR 500
  12. as usual with BaT, serious bidders came in for the last two minutes, several times. car sold. sorry to see it go!
  13. car is now live on BaT 41k-Mile 1988 BMW M3 for sale on BaT Auctions - ending January 24 (Lot #134,347) | Bring a Trailer BRINGATRAILER.COM Bid for the chance to own a 41k-Mile 1988 BMW M3 at auction with Bring a Trailer, the home of the best vintage and classic cars online. Lot #134,347.
  14. LOL....it has been a while since there was a "what is the best oil" thread. and the answer is, like every other time this comes up, there isn't one. everyone has anecdotal experiences which point to the one they use....and they are all different. the manual calls for specific grades and viscosities for different usages. use that. does not matter dino or synth. or what brand. just change it regularly and it will all be fine.
  15. 2ton HF FTW. And please do not leave an engine hanging on the lift. The hydraulic rams can fail. Slowly or suddenly causing the engine to drop. Very dangerous if you are working on it or nearby. Have seen this happen. Buy an engine stand. You don't work on a car with just a jack under it right? Why would you trust the same technology with an engine hanging on it?
  16. Retired USCG officer here. As stated, don't limit to CA cars. My rust free car came from TX/NC.
  17. returned to stockish look by putting original wheels and steering wheel back on. listed with BaT. will post when auction is active.
  18. having spent hundreds of hours, if not more, working on and driving this car I can say someone will get an outstanding 2002. The nicest driving street 2002 I know of.
  19. Since it is for a track car, the ratio should be defined by what track you drive on most. You want to be close to redline at the end of the fastest straight. Then adjust if that puts a shift in a bad place somewhere on track. There is no right answer. It depends on what track. Eg... a 4.41 diff was the best ratio behind an s14 and a 245 at summit point. Over 125 top speed and kept the engine away from the bad ratio gap between 2 and 3 in the 245. The zf you are considering has an even worse gap between 2&3. 1st and 2cnd gears are useless on track. Maximize use of 3/4/5. Rpm at 80mph irrelevant. Its a track car.
  20. its your car. who cares what others think. build to car to make YOU happy.
  21. as you can see there is no right answer. the tires will be fine over a wide range of pressures. and will not wear badly in that range. anything in 27-38psi will be fine. however...it depends on how you want the car to drive. want soft , heavy and compliant? 27psi. want crisp handling and lighter steering? 38psi. set it where you like it.
  22. OK, not a 2002, but there are many E30 M3 engines in 2002's, so it sorta fits. plus it might be of interest to collectors in this crowd. giving the M3 and 2002 folks first shot. 🙂 I love this car. I have spent hundreds of hours reviving it over the last few years...bringing all maint items for a 35yo car up to date and making a few select upgrades to enhance the natural essence of the M3 driving experience on street and track. The work was fun and the driving is sublime. The grins on track are priceless. Alas....my E36 M3 race car and E36 M3 street car are getting all the use. This "better than new" example of an E30 M3 just sits under a cover up on my storage lift in my climate controlled shop. Sigh. I am not a "cars are art" guy. It pains me if my cars are not driven hard regularly as the BMW engineers intended. I feel bad that this thing just sits...heck, it is even out of sight under the cover. So...I cringe saying that if someone wants to give it a home where it gets more use and attention than I am, I would be willing to part with it. 88 (July87) Henna. 41k original miles. Three owners. Original interior. Original paint. Numbers matching. Everything works. A/C updated and blows cold. Drives better than new. A few select upgrades. Original wheels, center caps and steering wheel come with the car. Before someone asks the typical BaT question....yes, it still has the original cat converter, so it should pass emissions. Pampered PA/MD/VA car its whole life. no rust, no excuses. ****Only exception to the "original paint " statement is the front bumper cover. Having a perfect new part was more important to me than having a scratched old part. by updated, i mean this list and more.. ENGINE Timing chain tensioner (S50) Valve adjustment Alternator bushings Engine oil and filter (M1 15-50, Mahle) Spark plugs (Bosch) HP fuel pump (Bosch) Fuel filter (Mahle) Fuel tank drain and refill LP fuel pump remove, clean, test, rewire Rubber fuel lines replace (including clamps) Fuel tank crossover pipe R&R'd Fuel Injectors cleaned (RCEngineering) Coolant flushed (X2) Valve cover refinished Valve cover gasket replaced One exhaust manifold stud replaced PS belt replaced Alt belt replaced Engine mounts replaced (750i) Connecting Rod bearings replaced (std size) Oil pump seal orings replaced Oil pump chain tensioned/shimmed VAC oil pan baffle installed Oil pan gaskets replaced (upper and lower) T-Stat tested Cooling hoses replaced (OEM) Water pump replaced Heater core replaced (Behr) Heater hoses replaced Intake plenum R&R’d, TB’s inspected. TB synch checked Throttle cable adjusted Engine grounds R&R’d, cleaned Muffler R&R’d and painted Muffler hanger donuts replaced IIGO SS91 ECU chip F&R BRAKES 25MM Master Cyl BW Teflon brake lines (all 6) Calipers rebuilt and painted PF Z brake pads New blank rotors System flush with ATE (x2) TRANS & DIFF Trans oil (Redline MTL) Diff oil (Redline 75w90) Trans mounts replaced (e28) Diff bushing replaced (stock rubber) Diff cover removed, diff inspected and cover resealed Shifter system bushings all replaced (Turner Poly kit) Clutch line replaced (stock rubber) SUSPENSION Sway bar bushings greased F&R dampers replaced (Koni Sports) F&R springs replaced (H&R Sports) Front CAB’s replaced (Powerflex street offset) Front top spring pads replaced (3mm) Front bump stops replaced (stock, cut by ½) Front strut bearings replaced Rear shock mounts and gaskets replaced Rear spring pads replaced (15mm) Rear subframe bushings replaced (stock rubber) Trailing arm bushings replaced (stock rubber) Eibach sway bars front and rear GC sport camber plates ELECTRICAL SI board replaced (Programma) RR marker lamp replaced LF marker lamp bulb replaced R Fog Lamp bracket repaired Battery replaced Radio R&R’d volume potentiometer cleaned Power drain fixed (factory mistake in fader backlight wiring) Cig lighter socket removed and replaced with modern size one MISC Carpet cleaned All vinyl cleaned and treated All leather cleaned and treated Paint clay barred and waxed Any part that came off the car was cleaned prior to reinstall Engine compt degreased A/C updated to R134
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