Anschauer

Well it's in and sounds great. Yes, can be loud on hard acceleration but at cruise nearly as quiet as OE. Found the right pipe attached to a 76 exhaust mani in my parts stash and hooray. While on the lift found out that I had a worn tie rod (center link) and driver's side and both now replaced and steering is nice and tight again. Most happy!

Please include me in the next one. My car will make everyone's look even better !

Hello everone. on an otherwise stock '76 (center exhaust) am replacing the Ansa with a new Ansa system and went out and purchased from (Stuart here in Brewster) a Borsal downpipe when we found the old one had been welded up by the PO. You can see in the picture that the angle is off by several degrees and also the length is about 2 inches short of making a proper connection (disregard some of the length issues here as that was PO welding. The Ansa intermediate pipe has no up angle to mate with the downpipe, therefore the down pipe has to terminate horizontal (ie parallel with the underbody) Any thoughts or ideas welcome.

Yes this happens quite often, actually within minutes of buying the car several years ago I was gassing up at Sunoco and a dude stopped by and did the nostalgic thing. It's a nice, welcome way to meet people. When they say "I used to own one" I always reply, 'Any why not now?'. Like me and the car, mostly graybeards though, except when my son takes it out and meets his pals at car hangouts where it's a big topic with many people asking if it's for sale (yes).

I've driven the stock Solex, and then swapped the twin sidedrafts off my (long ago gone) 1800ti Lots of sucking sounds emanating from under the hood and a great deal more response but the driveablity suffered as did the MPG (this back in '74 with the gas crisis) and then sadly went back to the downdraft. I was out of 2002's for 30 years and then started my little stable and the car you see in the pic came with a 32/36 which I thought was really well dialed in and worked well until it cracked. I was able to buy off the board here a nearly-new 38/38 and that has really made a difference and yes agree completely it is crying for a cam and pistons. My guess is it has shifted the forque curve to the left because it can pull along nearly from idle in 2nd and I can now stay in 3rd where I used to downshift to 2nd. But the junker '74 tii twin (when it runs) has the goddamnest bestmost incredible response I have ever, ever experienced. It just pulls, pulls, and seems to generate power faster and stays with it longer than the carb'd cars ever did. I refuse to part this car out. Good luck with the car and be safe.

Brewster - now that I put in the new 38/38 I can actually get to Brooklyn but seriously - if we want to drive can recommend the Dutchess County roads just to the north of me - well maintained and enough curves to make you smile. Plenty of good places to eat .

Ha! Looks like 2002 #1 my Agave '72 I had '72-'73 and all I need more for a flashback is the ex wife getting in. Seriously, all good advice above and numero uno is safety both passive (what the car has mechanically and structurally) but more importantly active safety - which is you - the driver. Don't know how old you are but let me impart my 2 centavos - - Agave is one of the colors least visible. Drive with your eyes open and your lights on. - The car has no airbags - assuming the nylon Klippan seat belts that came with the car are still OK it's all you have. Pull the carpets and have a look at the mountings and the bolts. Any doubt - replace them. Make no mistake, this is a tough little box and reasonably safe (I should know after getting t-boned by a full size 1971 Ford LTD right smack on the drivers side B pillar) but you cannot text, phone, or have any distractions because your eyeballs and reactions have to use the car's best feature which is agility and quick reaction. - Speaking of visibility did you notice those cute round tailights surrounded by those pretty chrome rings? Yes, but there are members here who will testify as can I that they are the '02's weakness. They can be seen at night, but they are so low and so weak that getting rear ended is an all too common result - there's plenty of advice here if you look it up and should be your concern before coilovers or mods. In the daytime your brake light is not enough to stimulate the rods and cones of the texting/telephoning person in the 3 ton SUV coming up on you at the stop sign. Keep an eye on your rear and leave an out ahead of yourself always - same goes for the interstate - dont count on people seeing you. - A nightime encounter with a deer could be unpleasant or worse so recommend the Cibie 500 yellow fogs - very good in the rain but they also light up Bambi like nothing else and they are period correct in a way. So good luck and wish you plenty of 'freude am fahren'

I'm no expert but this car isn't going on any track without a roll cage I would think

Thanks everyone - yes I am afraid the old Ansa exhaust has leaks so that would be my 1st priority. I don't know my fuel pressure but I can do that next. Idle shutoff no not really. This is a synchronous carburetor with both barrels operating in tandem as opposed to the 32/36 progressive which idled only on the 32mm barrel. Each barrel has an idle mixture screw located below the throttle plate and depending on the setting you it also control how much fuel delivery comes out of the upper jets for acceleration (go to redline or pierce manifolds to see the diagram) but all this is news to me and I am trying to run lean. Yes I did the timing (1400 rpm no vacuum) and I'll recheck it after I take care of the exhaust and the fuel pressure and get a CO meter and set the a/f mixture. Thanks again everyone! Next is getting the '74 tii running again, get some floors and rockers and go down to Hunts point and get me some quickie welding. That car is a pistol when it runs. a taxi paint job and

Hooked up the nearly-new Weber 38/38 w/Manual Choke and it starts, idles, runs well, rev's as high as I need to go, but in spite of resetting timing (vac line off, motor warm 1400rpm) it backfires heavily on decel. No smoke or heavy fuel smell as I'd expect from excess fuel Carb is stockand except for a hogged out manifold, so is the rest of the motor except the PO had converted over to an electrical fuel pump (trunk-mounted), black coil, no resistor. The 32/36 which came out was also prone to an occasional backfire but not nearly as bad as the new one. Any ideas helpful.

I have a small red strobe about 1/2 the size of a cigarette pack wired to the center brake light, Since it flashes every second it's an attention grabber. I bought mine as a clearance item but you can spend a little more and get the very best here: http://www.swps.com/ionr.html This flasher unit is the next step : http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-vehicle-replacement-bulbs/brake-light-strobe-module/195/

I am not so good at 'puters, sorry...

Cool enough but the real kicker comes at the end when you find out where this was from. http://www.youtube.com/watch?

VF-31 way ahead here. Us old folks remember well enough though.

Enjoy this ultra-clean ti drive everyone. The one great reason to go ti is the feedback thru the carbs which is pure testosterone...

The main difference between an original '72 and and original '73 non-tii was considerably more power and better response. After having had my '72 for 2 years I bought a year-old '73 in early '74 and what a great car that was. They got rid of the parasite air pump and much of the last-minute slap-on EPA smog equipment they needed to market in the USA. Weight savings alone were probably 20 pounds not to mention better mileage. Also the new '74's had a face only a mother could love (and now I have 2 of the beasts) The '73 was Polaris/navy and was last seen in New Orleans many years ago.

...it should: http://www.foxnews.com/leisure/2012/10/26/ford-unveils-new-140-coupe/?intcmp=obnetwork

It took a light hit in the pooper. The unibody looks good - at least pullable The bumper remains straight in the body line a damn sight better than some cars i've seen posted and the crushable area did the job it was designed for if the inside is as clean as the outside you buy this for $ 2k and a clip from some Cali yard you may have a nice $5k car. or you can drop $XXX on derusting a "rust free" car like someone I know did

How a__l can you be about oil? If you had a diesel the more the better because of particulates and huge starting loads which is why a pre-oiler with one of these will just about let you run oil for ever: Try this: https://www.mann-hummel.com/fileadmin/user_upload/service/catalogues/pdf/MH_Centrifuges_en.pdf