colinrichardson

http://gawker.com/everyday-superhero-in-trouble-for-using-city-asphalt-to-743289494

I like to imagine the trunk is just full of asphalt, as if it were a dump bed, but he's probably more practical.

Hi,

With about 40 miles left in a 600 mile trip I noticed a sulfur smell, assumed it was a combustion issue and decided to deal with when the drive was finished. Well, as the subject of this post might have betrayed, opening the hood revealed a cooked battery. I'd replaced a 4+ year old battery a few days before the trip out which, I figure, must have been wrecked by whatever killed the newer battery.

I replaced the alternator two years ago with one of those 80 amp BNR remans off of ebay. It has a built-in regulator and so I rewired, per their instructions, to bypass the stock external regulator when I installed it.

Since I'm out visiting family and don't have access to my multimeter, and the car doesn't want to turn over anyway, I haven't been able to get an output voltage off the alternator.

I know that it's possible that bad grounding, or possibly some sort of short could have cooked the battery, but the most probable-sounding culprit is the voltage regulator.

So, if any of the electrical experts on the forum would care to chime in, my questions are:

Are there tests to distinguish between a bad voltage regulator and bad grounding, given the symptoms, without having the car running?

If the regulator is the problem (internal regulator on the bnr reman alternator) is there a way to just re-attach an external regulator while leaving the faulty internal regulator in place?

Thanks,

Colin

Might need the heater motor or whole box, I'll be certain in a few days.

- Colin

I'm working on some lasercut/thermo-form lenses that won't look like euros, but will be clear/white. I'd started out looking at casting, but couldn't find a water-clear casting resin that set hard enough at normal atmospheric pressure to be durable.

ought2- what type of resin did you use?

Definitely could make a trade, I'll check the condition of the ambers i've got.

Jim,

Do you still have the right side red center lens? I've got a left side red center that I'd like to get a match for.

- Colin

email sent

i think the honda engine is one that some people have talked about putting into an '02

why did it get flagged? what did it say? does craigslist patrol for stolen engines?

One more thing- from my experience with furniture design and art projects, you'll get a more even/flat look if you're careful with the direction you sand. No circular motion! Work straight in one direction, and then work perpendicular to that direction when you switch up to the next grit. I'd strongly advise staying away from power tools if you can. Use plenty of water and paper.

- Colin

The radio they're studk to is non/half functioning if i remember correctly. I'd rather send you the whole radio and not have to try removing them without messing them up. Shipping looks to be ~$10 using flat-rate usps medium box. Email me colinrichardson at gmail

- Colin

I've got a 'sacramento' with some faulty electronics. are these knobs similar?

I'm looking for some turn signal assemblies or just lens frames that have either badly damaged lenses or are completely missing their lenses. I think i'll start @ $25 per pair and see if there are any takers.

- Colin

HA!

I'd been googling 'ronal basket' and getting no results, 'basketweaves' is the proper term, i guess.

Thanks!

They look really common, but I haven't been able to find any photos of them. They came as an extra set when I bought my car last year, took them to a shop to see about having them mounted but was told that some of them are slightly out of round. The guy at the shop recommended a wheel shop that he said could get them into good shape for ~100 each.

I like how these look. Can anyone tell me what they are and whether they're worth saving?

Thanks,

Colin

Thanks everyone, for the advice. I think I'm going to take my time and try to find a binder. There's one on ebay right now, purchased in 71 and not updated, would it be useful for working on a 72tii? I don't think too much changed 71-72, but I'm not sure.

- Colin

I'm done with scrambling between haynes, chilton and the odd scanned page on the board every time I tackle a new job on my car. I want to get a blue-binder manual. I thought this would be simple, but it seems like there are a few possibilities out there: an actual original 3-ring binder set, a dvd of pdf scans, or one of these photocopy faxon glue-bound books off of ebay.

I've read in some posts that the quality of the DVD/CD doesn't match that of the original blue books. Is this just poor scans, or are there actual pages missing?

Has anyone tried out the faxon books? I haven't seen any posts mentioning them.

The funny thing is that all 3 seem to cost about the same amount ~100bucks, a bit more for the originals.

I'd appreciate any advice anyone has. I know it seems tedious, but I'd like to only have to buy a book this expensive once.

- Colin

Cold...

check this out:

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/content/view/21/32/

You could trace over this:

Unbelievable, yet so probable...

Thanks Pierre!

looking for a right side lens- with or without metal rim. needs to be whole, or really cleanly split/cracked. any color.

Sorry for posting the same question twice, but I realize that the thread I'd replied to with my question earlier is in the FAQ construction section and might go unnoticed there.

Anyway, the question: I'm rebuilding the front calipers on my 72tii, not terribly difficult, mostly a lot of wire wheel so far. I'd measured the bolts that were holding the calipers together and they seemed to be 8mm and so the replacements I bought are m8x1.25x70 12.9. When I went to test-fit them, they seemed much looser than the bolts I'd replaced. Back to the old bolts, and some more careful measuring reveals that they're actually 3/8.

So, here's what I'm trying to figure out: were the calipers designed to use 8mm bolts and permit a tiny bit of sliding before being clamped down?(unlikely because there's nothing else to make sure that the halves, which have a hydraulic port running between them, mate correctly) Or might the PO have drilled-out the bolt holes when he couldn't find the correct metric fastener? Or, is there such thing as an 8.85mm bolt?

- Colin

Closest I could find on McMaster were : EPDM RUBBER WASHER, 1/4" SCREW SIZE, 1/2" OD, .093" THICK , which need to have their outer edge cut down a bit to fit.

Hi Felix,

Quite a nice writeup. I wonder if you remember the size of the long bolts, the ones which hold the two caliper halves together. Half way through- not a good place to be when making this sort of discovery, I realized the m8x1.25x70 12.9 bolts that I bought seem a bit loose. Upon further inspection, it seems that the bolts which the PO (to whom I owe so many fun hours of forensic repair work) used 3/8in bolts when these calipers were last split. I worry that he might have drilled 8mm holes out to 3/8 because 8mm bolts were too hard to source. I measured, and It doesn't seem that 10mm bolts would fit.

So, did you use 8mm bolts, and were they 8mm, and did they fit snug?

Thanks,

Colin

PS for anyone working on this same project in the future, the closest square-section o-rings I was able to find were from mcmaster and are: EPDM RUBBER WASHER, 1/4" SCREW SIZE, 1/2" OD, .093" THICK -they are the right thickness and inner diameter, but need to have their od cut down a bit to fit.

is this what you're talking about?

it looks like someone is selling one (?) on ebay uk:here