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alpinems

Solex
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Everything posted by alpinems

  1. I hate this site. I had a few minutes to waste, so went browsing. Oh, I have side-drafts, lets take a look at this post. minutes later, my credit card has been assaulted and a set of the stacks are headed my way. Damn it!
  2. Please add me to the list. I bought one years ago, but it mysteriously disappeared. Ready for another one.
  3. Thanks, that's good info. I'll have to go look.
  4. Ok, I'm having trouble understanding your post. The block has already been bored and decked with the pistons installed so I guess the first line is irrelevant. So for line 2, are you saying that because the pistons are piano tops they have to be a specific head configuration? This is a short block and I already have a good head that has been recently redone by a machine shop. My original question stands: How do I know if my current head with work with this block and piston?
  5. So I need a short block. I found a guy with a reconditioned M10 block that was a 1600, bored to 2 liters (89mm) with IE 9.5:1 piano tops. My car is a 1970 Euro. So I have a good stock head with a Schrick 292 cam and running Dual sidedraft webers. Will this block work with my stuff? Any concerns? Any gotchas? I'm mechanical enough to put it all together, but I don't know enough to answer that question. - Zoé
  6. Hi, I'm just outside of Newark DE and need some service work in the Delaware/PA area. I had to replace the head gasket on the car. It's been put back together but it's running rough and I'd like a pro to take a look at it. Spring is coming and I have too much racecar off-season work to fiddle with it, so I'm willing to pay somebody to get it to run right. I had a couple of recommendations of shops in Central PA and Northern NJ, but despite several phone calls to each, they just never call back. Somebody suggested Stone Racing in Philly, but it looks like they aren't in business any more. - Zoé 1970 Euro 2002 with Webers
  7. Darn Ed, wish you would've said something before I put it back on. There must be 2 whole bolts and 4 hose clamps holding it on.Its just way too much effort to remove it
  8. Just thought I update this topic with what I found. Turned out to be something I didn't expect at all. I have an Alpine (tube) style airbox feeding the dual Weber carbs. It's large and fills up most of the driver's side engine bay. So first order of business was to remove it before I start looking at the carbs - thinking I may need to pull them off and rebuild/tweak them. And lo and behold, after taking them off I noticed some oil on that side of the block. Which is weird as the block tilts the other way and that side should be clean. On closer inspection I found that one of the expansion plugs in the block had blown/fallen out. It was really hidden behind a bunch of stuff and hard to see. Why was it gone? I have no idea, as the system had plenty of antifreeze in it over the winter. Well the system was pretty low on coolant as you can guess. I put in a new expansion plug, topped off the coolant and let it run for a bit. A test ride of about 90 mins had it running warm but not hot - it was 90 degrees out, which was normal. The motor was singing again, no pinging, not running rich, just a pleasant car. I guess when I warmed up one or more of the cylinders would expand, letting the fuel pass through, thus the rich condition. Just a guess. But anyway, I think a dodged a bullet here as once it was running rough I would turn it off. Oh and another thing why I didn't catch it, the wire to the temp sensor was bad, so no temp reading while running. My focus was on the A/F meter showing a rich condition. Just putting it out there in case it helps somebody else.
  9. I'm running an AFR gauge, and it's definitely rich. I can smell the gas, it's not steam. I haven't checked the valves yet or the compression. My post here was to get some pointers on where to look first. Which folks did. I'll move on to the compression and leakdown scenarios if they don't pan out. Thanks!
  10. I doubt that's the case. As I said, I just don't remember what the actual psi is, but when I did know, it was correct,and the car has been running fine for years now. Good thought. I have a bottle of Techron and I'll run it through the system. Thanks.
  11. Thanks I'll pull the plugs and take a look. And you could be right about it being 4 psi. The PO had a big honking (and loud!) generic fuel pump and a regulator to pull it down to the proper level. I replaced that about 6-7 years ago with a proper fuel pump for a carb and haven't worried (thought) about it since.
  12. No FPR, but my electric fuel pump is pretty low output - it's been a few years since I put it in,but it only outputs 6psi? The float is a good idea. I'm thinking that maybe some fuel gunked up in the carb while it sat over the winter, but like I said, it puzzles me that it would run fine for a while and then go bad.
  13. They're dual Weber DCOE 45 with no auto chokes. And the engine is warmed up and still running fine - I have an oil temp gauge so I know the engine's up to temp. It just goes fully rich another 10-20 minutes later. But I'll take a look at it.
  14. When I put my 70 to bed for winter last year it was running great. With the long winter and a bunch of other projects (plus being sick for 3 months this winter/spring), I haven't gotten around to playing with the '02 until recently. Now, when I start it and drive around it runs great, but after anywhere from 15 to 30 minutes it starts running really rich, with clouds of unburn gas coming from the exhaust, and pinging under any kind of load. I put Stabil in the gas tank before the winter, and I've run through a tank of gas since then. The car has dual Weber carbs, a mildly hot cam and a Pertronix iginition. Nothing has changed since last winter/fall when it was running great. So where to start looking? My first thought was the carbs, but I"m puzzled that it runs fine for 15-30 minutes before degrading, and the engine is throughly warmed up in 5 minutes now. Any suggestions from the more experienced? - Cris 1970 Euro
  15. Rob that is cool news. Now that Peter Egan is cutting back his column work - I also read his motorcycle column - it's grand to find you in its pages. And I agree, the new R&T is looking and reading great.
  16. Wow, lucky is not the word. As per your carpets, I would FatMat/DynaMatt the floor pans, and then get a new carpet set from Esty - one of the forum regulars here. Do a search, you'll find plenty of examples here. Her stuff is great.
  17. Funny, I'm in the middle of this right now. I bought the AEM. It's all wired up but I'm waiting for my header to come back from the shop that's ceramic coating it. Here's my blog page with a bunch of photos for the install, including a shot of the header pipe. http://alpinemotorsports.blogspot.com/2013/01/show-me-numbers.html
  18. Same deal here, harbor frt soda blaster in my driveway last January. $5 for the soda, and my fingers were mostly thawed by the following Thursday ...
  19. Thanks! I'll wander out to the garage this morning before the turkey starts cooking and poke around.
  20. The good news is, after tearing the car apart for paint way back in January, it's finally about 95% back together again. 2 weeks ago I was finally able to start it and it was great to hear it running again. Of course it was running way too fast at idel, but that was solvable. Vacuum leak, misaligned weber throttle bodies, etc. I was fiddling with the above when the motor just immediately died without warning. It wasn't the slow death of fuel, but definitely electrical. I checked the usual, dist cap, plugs, swapped in another coil and rotor, but not getting any spark. Checking the coil voltage the positive terminal shows 0 volts when it should be 12+ when the key is in run position. I traced the green wire back to the fuse box (terminal 11) and it's good. Checking the fuse and terminal junction shows 0 volts when the key is in run (or any) position. Trying to read the wiring diagram I *think* it shows the wire going back to the ignition switch, but I admit I could be wrong. Is the ignition switch the next place to look? Do they fail? So any hints out there? For reference's sake, this is a 70 euro model with a 12 fuse panel.
  21. Hi Bill, On the new one yes, but I checked with the ohmmeter and they both were connected to each other. Don't know about the one in the car, I'll go look. Bill, you got it first try. There was another spade lug on the one in the car. Nothing ventured, nothing gained, so I connected to it and tada! the starter started to turn over the motor. Now it didn't start, but that's another issue for another day. Thanks!
  22. So I'm at the point of starting the car after months of paint and restoration work. Yesterday I put in all the fluids - found the hard tube to the clutch master wasn't seated correctly, leading to brake fluid everywhere and a several hour detour to remove the master, seat the tube and replace. But that's done. today I turned the key and the (new) starter motor just wizzed and didn't engage the flywheel. Solenoid not working I say, and give it a couple of bangs while turning but it doesn't improve any. Just my luck, a new starter with a bad solenoid. Oh well, I still have my old one, so pull the new, and put the old one back (a SRX440). Turn the key and the same thing happens, the motor wizzes but doesn't engage the flywheel. I also don't hear any click that tells me the solenoid is engaging. So that probably rules out the solenoid - the old one was known good - so that leads me to check for user error. So let me double check my wiring since the motor was dropped for the repaint. I have 3 wires in total going to the starter. A big fat lead from battery, a smaller fat one onto the same terminal. And a medium lead that probably comes from the ignition switch that goes to a spade lug on the solenoid. That sound correct? I'm going to put a charger on the battery to make sure it's putting out good juice, but it seems to be working ok. My fuel pump is running, lights on the dash are good, and starter spins quickly. It just doesn't engage. Places to look?
  23. Yup, plenty of holes. Here's my car ready for the paint shop. The clips are still in the holes, but you can see the notes on the car to the shop: fill, fill, fill, ...
  24. When I had my windows out for the repaint I had the same thing, all cloudy and nothing would touch it. I then wet down the glass with liberal doses of glass cleaner and took a razor blade to them and they came out looking great.
  25. Well I'm glad I asked after all! Thanks for the closer look.
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