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Goudey

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  1. Goudey
    Thanks for the ideas but there isn't any room under the pump for a chafe guard. What I am looking for is a lightweight, (blue/red) easily bendable, thin wall type hose.......I have seen them on hotrods.... Called Summit racing and they can source a s/s flex hose but way too expensive and not that bendable. Any ideas on this type of hose? Has any other 2002 owner change the fuel pump to the new "short" style pumps? Richard
  2. Goudey
    Got a new fuel pump from Autohaus for 76 2002. It rubs on the small hose from intake manifold to junction with big radiator hoses. The old pump was taller and the hose fitted under it. Now I need a very flexible hose or ??? so it won't get chaffed by the shorter pump. Any ideas welcome! Thanks, Richard
  3. Goudey
    Thanks, No A/c no air pump so guess we need a single grove pulley....the only damage is just a slight bit on each side of the woodruff key slot which can be filed flush with the crank. The seal even looks ok... Now need to find a junk yard where they have old 2002 motor Richard
  4. Goudey
    i can't believe this but the crankshaft pulley and hub fell off at 70 mph on the interstate.... Need to locate used parts including the nut and washers (if any?) Is there any procedure for putting these back on re the position of the timing marks etc? Any help appreciated! Richard
  5. Goudey
    My '76 2002 is leaking oil off the header studs....am not seeing any exhaust leaks around the header flanges, just oil on the stud ends. Could oil from inside the head be leaking through where the studs screw onto the head? Seems worse on #1 (Front) header but...? Have tightened the header nuts several times trying to stop this. Any thoughts on what to do? Thanks, GOUDEY
  6. Goudey
    I think there is an easier way to solve the problem of being unable to push the feeder pipe into the clutch master cylinder (after it has been bolted in).... Used a 90 or "L" shaped vacuum fitting, ( available at Autozone in a bag of assorted sizes), and some clear plastic hose, same outside diameter as the original plastic pipe. Took the L fitting that closest fit the hole in rubber plug on the master cylinder, warmed it with a heat gun and pushed the hose over one end of the L, ran the hose up to the original larger hose coming out of the fluid reservoir, pushed that end into the hose and clamped it, took the L fitting and pushed it down into the master cylinder. Filled with brake fluid, bled slave cylinder and it works with no leaks so far. The brake fluid seems not to bother the clear plastic hose but time will tell! Much, much easier than trying to push that original hard plastic pipe into the rubber fitting. Thanks to all for the advice. Richard
  7. Goudey
    Thanks for taking the time to reply! My situation is a little different in that the CLUTCH master on the '76 02 is way down below the windshield deicer bottle and the plastic pipe has no L fitting it just goes straight down into the rubber fitting and has a flange on the end making it even harder to push into the rubber.....Not hardly any room to get your grip on the pipe to push it in Am thinking of removing the flange and then trying to force the plastic pipe into the M/C or taking off the new M/C and trying to do it on the bench...If I remove the flange it may?will leak??? Next I will try removing the rubber and inserting the pipe then follow your suggestion... Why BMW built it this way puzzles me! Best regards Richard
  8. Goudey
    When replacing the clutch master cylinder the plastic filler pipe from the reservoir goes into the rubber fitting on the new master cylinder. It pulled out of the old cylinder as per the factory manual method but it won't go into the new unit....do you pull out the rubber fitting and install on the pipe, then push the fitting and pipe into the cylinder or what??? Thanks Richard
  9. Goudey
    Thanks Will get some and give it a try! Richard
  10. Goudey
    Could this be from a worn out radiator cap? Mine says 100 and some German word.....I have replaced the water pump and the thermostat and without taking car to radiator shop for a pressure test, I thought replacing the cap might be a simple fix? Can I use a cap from Autozone or Napa? What is the correct pressure? Thanks Richard
  11. Goudey
    Thanks for the advice Guys......it worked!!! Richard
  12. Goudey
    How do I tighen up the mirror? Don't see any allen screws or other fasteners. Do I have to take mirror off door? If so how to access inside of door? Mirror flops around on its' mount. Thanks, Richard
  13. Goudey
    Have not run my 76 2002 since June. Just noticed a puddle of antifreeze under the engine ( not the radiator) and the #3 header pipe is wet with it as it seems to be coming from the stud or flange area of the #3 header. Would this be a likely head gasket problem or just leaking exhaust flange gasket? Have had a slow rise in temp after running engine for more than 30 minutes at 50mph.....changed thermostat, checked all hoses and radiator and coolant quantity stays up....checked timing etc. Could not account for the rise in temp almost but never into the red.... Any help is appreciated. Richard
  14. Goudey
    Any tips on cleaning the yellowing and dirt off the white material the 2002 headliner is made of would be appreciated. Don't want to have it disolve by using the wrong stuff... Thanks, Goudey
  15. Goudey
    Oil appears to leak from the studs for the exhaust manifold. Is this simply a gasket problem or? Engine has header vs exhaust manifold....have retightened all nuts on studs but oil seems to weep out onto header. Any ideas appreciated! Richard
  16. Goudey
    Cut down a 24 mm wrench as you suggested and with heat and 4' pipe the nut came loose....wow, it was really on there! Thanks again for the idea....also other posts appreciated. Richard
  17. Goudey
    BMW shop manual shows yoke being held in a big vise...that's what i'm doing but may need heat to free nut as it's on super tight!
  18. Goudey
    Great idea...will make one up. Can I use heat on the nut to loosen?
  19. Goudey
    Have removed driveshaft to replace the center support bearing and the guibo. How do you get the "dodecagon" nut off to separate the shafts? (BMW manual terminology) Should the universal joints be replaced? Does this have to be done by a driveshaft shop? Thanks for any advice. Richard
  20. Goudey
    If I use your 320 radiator, how do the hoses and thermostat hook up? What other mods are needed? Thanks for your help.
  21. Goudey
    Last year my 2002's temperature gauge started to slowly rise toward the red line after a 45 minute drive at 50+ mph....it never reached the limit or boiled over. I replaced the thermostat and hoses, radiator boiled out (water pump was new 5 years ago 1200 miles)... Car has been running fine on local stop and go drives but took it on the highway and the same slow increase to 1/8 " below the redline on the temp. Thinking still have air trapped in system or? Any help is appreciated.
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