kinarcy

I'm wondering if it could be an adjustment in your linkage somewhere (either too much lash or not enough lash between the linkage and the master). You say the travel feels long. It could be that the linkage is adjusted "short" of the master so there is lash between the pushrod and the master and you aren't getting full travel at the master cylinder (the first part of your pedal travel wouldn't be moving the master). I experienced a similar situation on a 72 corvette. Bled the brakes repeatedly and only the fronts would lock, rears would not. In that case I believe the pushrod was too long and the mastercylinder wasn't retracting completely so we weren't getting full stroke. --different linkage i know, but the principle at the master is the same.

Pm sent

If you use soda for blasting it will dissolve in water so no disassembly is necessary

+1 for soda blasting...you can use a zendex "speedblaster"and cleanup with water. You will be amazed at how well it works. If your aluminum is oxidized or pitted you may need something acidic like alumiprep for the full on new appearance.

+1 on the Ireland studs --- I spent a lot of time searching and they had the right part for a fair price.

I'm sorry for your loss. Your Father always brought a positive attitude to the forum.

Thanks Andrew, seller says he buys them from redline weber and what you said makes sense

I recently ordered a carb spacer for a Weber 38/38 and the one I received does not have symmetric bores. One is about 40mm and the other is 38mm. I know the 32/36 spacers are obviously not symmetric, but I don't know why the 38 wouldn't be symmetric. The supplier claims this is the right part from Redline Weber. Any thoughts? Thanks for your help Dave

I know this is an old thread, but I ran across it and it has me confused. As I understand it, the original question is whether the relationship between the rotor and the terminal on the distributor cap changes as timing advances to the point that the rotor and the cap terminal no longer are aligned correctly. I think there is a misconception here. If you take your distributor cap off and look at the components, the rotor, points (or elec or optical pickup), bump on the distributor cam (or slot in shutter wheel) and distributor cap all have a fixed relationship to one another. Take the crane optical setup for example. I just went through the process of drilling a hole in the cap so I could see the rotor to terminal relationship and adjust the optical pickup accordingly. once this relationship is set, I don't believe it changes (shutter/rotor are on the same fixed shaft and pickup and cap are fixed). The advance mechanism rotates the shutter/rotor so the timing event happens earlier relative to the crankshaft, but the shutter/rotor/pickup/cap relationship doesn't change. In order for the rotor position to change relative to the cap terminal, the shutter wheel and rotor relationship would have to change. Please explain if I am looking at this incorrectly. so in a nutshell -- I don't think the rotor changes its position relative to the cap terminal with advance -- rotor width doesn't really matter as long as you have your pickup placed so the rotor lines up with the cap terminal at idle (alignment won't change with rpm).

this works for removing water as well

thank you for your commitment

+1 on the antisieze. Also its good to run the plugs back in by hand to make sure the threads are clean and pure before using the wrench and risking thread damage. As for tightening its good practice to use a torque wrench so you don't overtighten the plugs in the aluminum head.

could be a bad needle and seat--overflowing fuel bowls are difficult to keep running and use a lot of gas "On the occasion that it HAS started after a struggle, it's only at WOT and requires keeping the engine revved in order to stay running."-- starts cold when the excess fuel has evaporated--just throwin it out there because its easy to check by looking down the carb.

that is not the spare tire well of a $55k car

It sounds like a vacuum leak, but if you've ruled that out, I would pull the idle jets and make sure they are clear. When faced with an odd carb problem my Grandfather used to say "there might be a bee's wing in there".