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nevadainMN

Solex
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Everything posted by nevadainMN

  1. Mine sounds like a tractor at idle. At least from inside the car. I thought maybe there was a leak but couldn't find one. I've got a resonator. Should there be some kind of seal at the slip joint on the Ansa or something?
  2. Here's a thread on somebody who put an e36 M42 in his 2002. http://eurowerks.org/showthread.php?t=34487
  3. Not mine, just stumbled across it on Craigslist http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/pts/2300132185.html
  4. I've got a line on some Konig wheels. Best guess - will these fit a stock fendered 02? Specs: 4x100 15x7.5 et 30 polished 2'' or 2.5'' lip wrapped in 195/50 -15 khumo ecsta AST
  5. But if the issue is wheel selection, you could use a 4x100 to 5x100 adapter. That would get you to a modern VW pattern which should have plenty of wheel availability. You'd probably need to use a FWD offset anyways to account for the thickness of the adapter.
  6. So pretty much anywhere I want judging by the breadth of responses. :-) Some nice, clean looking installations there. Unless 02for2 wants to stop by my house and fabricate me one of his mounts. (I live in Prior Lake and will be home all evening) I am going to go with Earl's set up. I hate splicing wires or it'd be inside the passenger comparment. Thanks!!!
  7. It seems like near the distributor would pick up too much heat from the exhaust header and there isn't enough wire to put it inside the car. Can I put it on the other side of the "firewall" in the vent area or is that too wet. It seems like there's a nice little spot there tucked up away from the vent holes. The Crane must be reasonably weather proof because it isn't all that dry under the hood.
  8. iS seats are not the same as cabrio seats. The direction of the stiches is different (top to bottom vs left to right). The cabrio seats are like te e30 M3 seats. The other difference with Cabrio seats is the outside lever to tilt the seat forward. On the cabrios its a little stub piece like the inside one on the passenger seat as opposed to the longer lever on these seats. If you put an "is" or M3 seat in a cab you can't recline it or slide it all the way back because the rear seat area is much narrower and the levers hit right behind the doors. That would make these E30 M3 seats and as we all know any car with M3 parts is at least 10% faster than without them. :-)
  9. Or he's tired of all the leg work it takes to find good cars to jack and figured he'd get them to come to him. It is Craigs List after all.
  10. I'm in the camp that drilled rotors are for show. (that's why i put them on my 02 - they look fricken cool). Find a real modern race car with drilled rotors - F1, indy, Le mans, Grand Am, Nascar... thay all run non drilled rotors. I will put a good word in for Slotted rotors though. I've run those ATE rotors that have the slots that look like an atomic symbol on my DD. They are awesome in crappy Minnesota winters. I assume it's because the slots are moving water/ice out and cleaning the pads of all the road crap that gets tossed up on them, but the performance advantage in crummy winter weather on a street driven car is very noticable.
  11. I am not much for donks, but the 60's gassers are classics. I love the "high n mighty" - those are some crazy exhaust pipes. A friend of my dad used to run an Austin Healey gasser back in the mid 60's. Had a big block Dodge Hemi in it if I am not mistaken. I've only seen it in old black and whites, but it was an awesome car. I assume the owner of the 02 was going for the gasser look. His problem was over detailing the car. Gassers were never that well shiny and clean.
  12. no sooner do you ask and the second car in the very next post does indeed have the Hoffmeister Kink.
  13. Oh Man! I am out of town. Post up some pics afterwards. I'd love to see some more local 02's. I've seen 3 in just the last few weeks. More than I've seen all summer.
  14. ^^^Excellent storage prep. The only two things I'd add are: Use dryer sheets rather than mothballs. They seem to be just as effective and the car will smell nice in the spring rather than like mothballs. I put one in each footwell and in the trunk. And usually under the hood. Battery guys have told me that you really don't need to take them out of the car any more. In the old days battery cases were more pourous so they needed to be kept off concrete floors and ideally someplace warm. Modern pastics have negated the need for that. Just remove the postive cable and throw on a trickle charger. Better yet get a dry cell and there is no need for the trickle charger. Dry cells are more stable and have super long strorage lives compared to standard batteries.
  15. ^^^Excellent storage prep. The only two things I'd add are: Use dryer sheets rather than mothballs. They seem to be just as effective and the car will smell nice in the spring rather than like mothballs. I put one in each footwell and in the trunk. And usually under the hood. Battery guys have told me that you really don't need to take them out of the car any more. In the old days battery cases were more pourous so they needed to be kept off concrete floors and ideally someplace warm. Modern pastics have negated the need for that. Just remove the postive cable and throw on a trickle charger. Better yet get a dry cell and there is no need for the trickle charger. Dry cells are more stable and have super long strorage lives compared to standard batteries.
  16. Points, rotor and dist cap look good. (I have got a new cap and rotor as well as a Crane XR700 sitting on my shelf but have been holding off installing it until I trouble shoot the idle so I am not trying to diagnose multiple problems.) Runs fine everywhere but idle when warm. It has a nice idle when cold then as it warms up it just slowly gets lumpier until it finally kills. Its not smoking. How do I tell rich from lean? There aren't any obvious signs. To me at least. One time it did diesel for a second after I shut it off, but just that once. Maybe rich? Plugs looked good when I pulled them in May when I first started having the problem. I'll pull them again and look (and probably replace.) It doesn't seem electrical because it occurs very steadily. Maybe warm up regulator/cold start valve. because it really does seem to be related to the warming of the engine. If it just sits and idles or I go out and run it hard it doesn't seem to make much difference. Just a cold start is perfect and it gets progressively worse for about 3-5 minutes then doesn't change after that. I do have an early tii engine though so maybe I'll spray some carb cleaner around the plastic runners just to be sure, but really if they leaked I would think I'd have a problem at higher RPMs. Which I don't. Thanks for the help. If that triggered any more ideas please send pass them along. Is there a test for the warm up regulator/cold start valve or is it a replace it and see if its better type of thing?
  17. I looked through the archives and couldn't find anything to help me. Here's the situation: '72 tii engine. Starts and idles fine. As it warms up the idle slowly gets rougher until it finally stalls out. Maybe 3-5 mins after starting the car. I haven't made any changes. Ran fine last fall. When I took it out this spring it had developed this issue. I've been driving through it by keeping the idle up at stop lights, but its time to figure it out. Where do I start?
  18. Usually I agree with mlytle on his tire suggestion - however - I put a set of Kumho ASX on my e30 convertible. They are an ultra high performance all season tire and I have been really impressed by the performance. They have turned out to be a great DD/spirited driving tire as well as taking some pretty crappy weather. You aren't going to win an autocross on them. I'm not so sure they look like that great a winter tire, but then your winters aren't like mine. If you aren't taking the 02 to tahoe skiing I'd consider them. I went with an all season because the chassis on the e30 convertible is notoriously soft and the sidewalls on performance summer tires are very stiff. I went with an all season (and smaller wheel diameter) looking for a less brutal ride. All seasons get something of a bum wrap from those of us in the snow belt because they just aren't that great in real snow and ice conditions and then traditionally they were more of a touring tire so their summer performance wasn't that great either. With the advance of technology some of the performance all seasons are a decent tire for daily driver use if you live someplace with moderate winters.
  19. I use Progressive online. Love them and they are cheap to boot. Although every year they call and tell me my 2002 is a BMW motorcycle and i have to confirm that it is indeed a car. $83 for 6 months, but I am not 22 anymore (sigh) and it's not my only car on the policy. (also no comp or collision since, like your's, I only paid $3,000 for it)
  20. Headline from this morning's Minneapolis Star Tribune. Sorry to out you Steve. What? They meant EMILY Blunt?!? Sorry, my bad. :-)
  21. The Lake street/Marshall Avenue bridge over the Mississippi was closed this morning with a mass of tangled cars in the middle of it. Time to start prepping for winter storage.
  22. I used a socket like this: http://www.etoolcart.com/browseproducts/Lug-Nut-Remover-LT4300.HTML Got it at a local tool store. Kind of an easy out socket. Worked slick on my BMW, but you need enough space to get a grip on the lug. We tried it on the neighbor's VW and the wheel design wouldn't let the socket get an even grip on the lug bolt. So we ended up drilling a hole into the bolt and used a big easy out to twist it out. If its stuck start by applying heat to the hub (not the lug). P.S. for small jobs those GRABIT kits you see on late night TV or online really do work.
  23. +1 on the E30 318i cabrio. The small fours aren't for everyone - especially people who need lots of torque and hp because they can't drive a car properly. :-) But for maximum fun these cars are great. You can drive the snot out of it on a dialy basis while guys in their 300hp M3s lope around never blowing the carbon off the exhaust valves. Mine has a complete e30 M3 suspension and brake system underneath and its probably the best handling BMW I've ever driven. Yes even better I think than the E30 M3 that donated its chassis. Lower center of gravity, no weight penalty, better balanced? I don't know maybe I am just having so damn much fun with the top down I can't tell the difference. Anyways I nearly made the mistake of selling it this year to get an e46 M3 convertible (which seem to be bargain priced right now). Faster? Yes. More Cache? Yes. Bigger, heavier, more complicated, more expensive to maintain? yes, yes, yes, yes. On the way home from the test drive I realized the E30 was actually more fun to drive and the new windshield, clutch, and transmission mounts it needs to go another 100k are significantly less than a routine inspection 2 on the e46 M3, which most used ones are going to need soon. To me they complement each other perfectly, light, nimble and fun to drive. That's what works for me - your results may vary. :-) Check out www.m42club.com
  24. i bought some at my local upholstery supply shop for like $5. I had to cut it to fit. Try google.
  25. Those are the wheels. A little research however shows a pretty thin selection of tires.
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