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rlgMcoupe

Solex
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Everything posted by rlgMcoupe

  1. Nice! I already had that one in my Amazon cart. Will checkout when I get back from Holiday weekend road trip. Glad to see that's the preferred model.
  2. Thanks. Sounds like a prefect reason to upgrade from my 25 year old cheap strobe only timing light. Also, I appreciate the comments on the jets and engine revs.
  3. Mains- 140 Air correction- 180 Choke- 34 Idle- 55 Pump jet- 40 Pump inlet choke- 50
  4. ignition was installed by previous owner, I am pretty sure it is the minimal pertronix upgrade as the dizzy and coil all look stock, but inside the dizzy is the difference. interesting on #4 - I don't notice smoke, wonder if I am just being oblivious and need to look closer. I have a timing light I just could not see the ball. Hoping to get better at that, thanks for the instructions. appreciate the feedback.
  5. by poorly I mean sitting at idle it sounds and feels like it is firing on all cylinders. When I start to drive it it is lumpy like it is miss firing, but spark is there when I check each wire at idle. I am less familiar with the symptoms of missing v. vacuum leaking so now knowing that a vacuum leak rarely shows up at higher rpms helps me to clarify I am most likely describing a miss fire once I start driving.
  6. Complete rebuild in 2012 with new pistons and rings, both block and head went to machine shop, rebuilt carbs and tuned, has a 292 cam from previous owner. I have driven it ~4K miles over the last 10 years, most of that to and from auto crosses and at the events so some spirited short duration driving. I installed a rev limiter in the last 2 years just so I don't get too excited and hurt the motor at an event. Perhaps that is malfunctioning now and cutting spark sooner than it should. I'll disconnect it and try. This is the first time I looked at my plugs since the rebuild as mileage was low, I thought I'd get at least 10K mi out of them.
  7. cool! are the more expensive ones better?
  8. good tips, all. I will check compression when I get a chance, and spray the starter fluid around the intake manifold. I tried to buy a set a new wires a month ago but the vendor never shipped them. this item : https://www.ebay.com/itm/111092571401 at least I got my money back so I'll shop for another set. I like the eraser trick, I'll be doing that too as I trust the ball more than my ears (they are getting old after all.)
  9. I need a some help from the more experienced folks. After the last Autox I noticed my car was running poorly at speed, It sounds fine and holds a low idle well, but when you start to drive it sounds and feels like it has a vacuum leak, but I am pretty sure there is only one place that could be coming from and I plugged it up well. so I thought maybe it is ignition based. I pulled the plugs and got some yucking looking results, leads me to believe it may have been running rich for a while. Number 1 plug is especially nasty. I replaced them and while pulling the wires off I basically pulled them all out of the sockets, no biggie, they are the type you can screw into the caps. Now the wires are all nice and tight and the plugs are new gaped at .30. It still ran like crap so I got out the timing light, to my surprise I could not find the ball. I had my partner keep it a 2200 while I looked though the sight and moved distributor back and forth, no timing ball. Guess someone put in a different flywheel before me (I have had it for 10+ years). I basically timed it by feel and it idles well and drive just like it did before. some brief modern history, I used a pressure bleeder to flush/bleed the brakes and ended up getting fluid in the brake booster I subsequently sucked that into the manifold by magical vacuum and started burning a ton of brake fluid, that is not a nice surprise, so stinky and acrid. I then cleaned out the booster and was putting my vacuum line back and the plastic nipple disintegrated. since then I have been running with a rubber plug on the manifold and no booster, not fun to drive. For a while it ran fine like this and now it is rough again. 1) could burning the brake fluid make my plugs like this? or have done something worse more serious to the engine? 2) I have a DCOE45 setup and mechanical dizzy, the only vacuum I am aware of is the intake manifold to brake booster. Am I missing another possible vacuum leak? 3) What else can I check? 4) What could make plug from cylinder 1 look so bad but not the others? I really want to get this engine back to peak performance, it was very strong and healthy previously, I use it for fun times auto crossing.
  10. Hi Brandon, Do you have a plastic brake booster elbow? I need to replace the white plastic version with 3 tabs that twist lock. Thanks
  11. Also, just so know it’s going to a good cause, this is me struggling with unboosted brakes last month. 13 BMW 1600 - Lightspeed Images WWW.LIGHTSPEEDIMAGES.COM _A091192-2 I’ll put it to good use. Cheers!
  12. That is indeed the correct part number, but it’s not available anywhere from my searches. You think RTV would seal it air tight between the plastic and metal?
  13. Does anyone know where I can get the booster nipple gasket? Seem to be NLA and I have tried 2 different rubber o-rings with same 28mm ID of different thicknesses and one was too thick to seal, other was too thin and leaked vacuum.
  14. Thanks again all, the oil is from my valve cover vent, I ran a tube down and zip tied it to the back of the transmission. Hindsight… I just recently upgraded to a catch can. The tip on the nut position is key. This is my first guibo on this car. I’ve had it since 2011 and haven’t had it fail until now. Thanks! also, I am pretty sure it’s an E21 transmission and mount (5 speed) was on car when I got it. If I buy transmission mounts for an ‘83 320i they should work right?
  15. the castle nut was allowing for a tiny bit of play so I tightened it just enough to get rid of that and buttoned that back up. Then I went under and found the culprit. Thanks all for pointing me to the guibo, It must not been in the same position last time I went under and looked b/c on visual it looked ok and I didn't put hands on it. Now I know the loud noise was the Guibo breaking loose and the bolt hitting the underside of car. Anything else I should do while replacing the Guibo, meaning "while you are in there..." I obviously need one new bolt and nut, but thinking it's probably wise to get all 8, right? Thanks again!
  16. drivers and passenger motor mounts look good from what I can tell. It does move a lot from side to side with idle on a 292 cam but I replaced urethane mounts with stock rubber about 10 years ago b/c it was too much vibration. I will get under it and check the small back trans mount tomorrow. the passenger tire has play when moved from the 12 and 6 o'clock position.
  17. confirmed it was brake fluid, I had to drive it for about 10 min to get it all burned out. Oh man I do not want to go without the booster, that pedal is hard to press, hopefully I can get it all cleaned out and it was due to the pressure bleeder that it got in there in the first place. Thanks again for the help, now on to the next thing on the list...
  18. I recently replaced front wheel bearings and there is still some play in the wheel. I get a severe wobble at low speed and it goes away as you increase speed. I heard a loud pop during the last autocross from the front end and on my way home the gear shift was banging on the tunnel like crazy until another loud pop then it seemed fine, except when I would go at a low speed. I checked the motor and transmission mounts, they do not appear to be damaged, I checked front suspension bushings, they also seem fine. I changed the front passenger wheel bearings as it had play in it and now it still has the low speed wobble and play in the wheel. Where should I look next?
  19. Thanks to you all I am pretty sure it's brake fluid. It smelled terrible and actually made me a little ill yesterday. I just need to burn it all off. I should be able to bring it down off the lift today and drive it where there are very few people to blow smoke at.
  20. I just tried it again to see if maybe I just haven't let the brake fluid burn off enough yet. There is no noticeable smoke while warming up from idle, then as the gets up to temp it starts to smoke a little and as I apply the throttle it continues to smoke a lot, I let it do that for about 30 seconds and it still didn't decrease smoke volume. Shut it off. there is a noticeable amount of condensation dripping out on the floor from the exhaust, I tried to wipe it up with paper towel to see if I could see any color, it was just dirty black burnt color and I could not smell anything from it either. The vacuum line is completely disconnected from booster by the way, has been the last few times I tried to run it.
  21. Thanks for the gasket knowledge. Not loosing water. Could it take a while for the brake fluid to burn off? Could using a pressure bleeder at 15psi have caused the fluid to go into the booster? I totally forgot between the last time I ran the car and the smoke I also bleed the brakes b/c I replaced a wheel bearing and just wanted to flush some fluid though for good measure and see what my old fluid looked like. I'm pretty bummed my master cylinder is leaking into booster. 1 year old E21 master with two inputs and 3 outputs as I have e21 brakes in front.
  22. I recently did some non major work to the old girl added a secondary coolant temp gauge - I don't have a heater box I put a steel plate where it used to be and had been happily running with no issues by just putting the open heater valve between the two existing hoses that were already there. I removed the heater valve and put a 19MM adapter for the temp sender in its place. Seems trivial and logically should be the same as the coolant passing through the open valve. oil pressure gauge - I added this to an existing sandwich plate on the filter that I have been using with no issues for oil temp oil catch can - I've just been running hose down to the ground for years, thought I'd clean the back of trans and the environment up a little. been using air filters on my dual webers for years for safety from debris etc, I switched back to velocity stacks I had cause filters were looking sad. When I fired the car up to test the gauges I got it up to temp and it started blowing white smoke and smelled pretty strong it hung around pretty thick for a while. I am wondering how the heck doing what I did can now cause exhaust smoke at idle and acceleration. I checked the brake booster and it does have some fluid in it, I removed the vacuum hose and plugged it. Still smokes, maybe a little less, maybe it's in my head and I don't want to run it too much if I coincidentally have a coolant combustions issue. I put the regular open hose back on the valve cover, thinking I don't think this would make a difference, but stranger things have happened with this car, trying to rule stuff out. Do you think that freeing up the airflow moving from filters that have not been washed replaced in a long time to stacks could have created way more vacuum and sucked the brake fluid in to burn? if so how long would it take for it to stop smoking, I have tried to start it, bring it up to temp twice since noticing and once I give it some throttle and smoke comes out, I turn it off. Could I have coincidentally had a gasket failure? no water in oil, no overheating, no coolant loss, but I know it could still be possible to burn coolant with out those signs. Any help is appreciated. Also, if I decide to open up and replace gasket, can I use the standard MLS ones even though I am at maximum second overbore size. I can't remember what pistons size I bought, it was about 10years ago and I can't find receipt and didn't take notes, but I'm thinking it was 91 or 92mm IIRC. (writing this clicked something in my brain and I went to go check a place and found the receipt from machine shop from 2011 it was a 1.2mm bore so I guess 91mm pistons, but I remember them saying no more after this) regular m10 gasket, s14 gasket, regular MLS, s14 MLS, or do I need to have one made? I also can not remember what I did for gasket back in the day.
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