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chrisrouse

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Everything posted by chrisrouse

  1. chrisrouse

    chrisrouse

  2. For sale is a set of well used Minilite styled wheels. 14x6 et 30. I ran these wheels briefly on my '02 with no rubbing or fitment issues, though it does require longer wheel studs or special lug nuts. They're in need of some refurbishment, as there's a bit of curb rash on all of them. Two wheels have slight bends, and one of those has a decent gouge on the rim. I gave them a quick run through the media blaster to get several layers of nasty paint off and check for cracks (none found), and there is still some orange paint clinging to the wheels in places. I think two of these wheels could come out very nicely with a DIY treatment, but the other two should probably be done professionally if you're looking for really good results. Cool, uncommon, lightweight (14lbs 10oz), vintage, Italian made alloys. I'd like to get $350 for the set. Located in Portland, OR. Glad to ship at cost.
  3. Just a heads up, I recently ordered a couple of 5 speed conversion speedo drive cables (PN: 62 12 1 351 720) from the dealer and they were flatly wrong. The end that should go into the transmission is now 16mm diameter instead on 10mm, and clearly does not fit. I notified the dealer and they submitted an inquiry to BMW, I'll keep y'all posted when they get back to me.
  4. Seen lots of pertronics failures, IE and genuine. I've been running a megajolt EDIS setup for the last year with GREAT performance and reliability. Even if the Megajolt dies completely the EDIS unit will keep chugging along at 10 degrees advance. Ford escort parts can be acquired ANYWHERE, but I keep a spare crank sensor in the glovebox, and a stock dizzy/coil/wires in the trunk for LONG trips, just in case. I've seen so many pertronix and pertro-knockoff failures that I try and convince customers to go back to points, for all the reasons stated above. Most of them do!
  5. Did you remember to set the valve lash? I've heard some pretty gnarly noises after someone forgot to tighten all of the eccentric hardware... Fresh camshaft/rocker arms, or worn out junk? Did you assemble the head, or slap it on as a lump from the machinist?
  6. Whelp, time to beat a dead thread. My motor is making this exact noise, exactly as you've described and documented. Thanks for posting a video of that thing before you took it apart! I suppose it's a bit disappointing that you weren't able to pinpoint it's source, but knowing that it wasn't valve train related is certainly worth something. I've been going crazy trying to isolate this knocking rattle, but now you've got me pretty well convinced it's somewhere in the bottom end. I was starting to think that a valve guide was worn out, but that wasn't quite adding up. Think I'll be able to get an accurate read on the crankshaft end float with the engine in the car and mostly assembled? In truth, I've always thought that my clutch engagement was a bit abrupt as well (which seems to fit with the crank floating around), but I guess we can't compare notes on that one. It would be great to verify a consistency of something being observably out of spec before committing to tearing the whole thing down (again). And if I could rule OUT crankshaft end float, maybe I could help isolate the source of this particular engine noise for the annals of bmw2002faq diagnostic history. My timing chain and sprockets all have less that 15k miles on them so I doubt they are the source, and the oil pump, chain and sprocket were replaced at the same time (as well as the rings, bearings, cylinders bored and honed, all the bearings, etc). But maybe I shimmed the oil pump too loose. And While I was pretty diligent about measuring ALMOST all the piston and rod and crank clearances, I definitely did not measure the crankshaft end play, as I was dumber back then (if such a thing is possible). Hopefully I can add some more details to the exact source of this particular noise for future generations. Assuming that I'm not the last person to ever read this thread.
  7. I'm in the final assembly stage of this turbo build, and I think I'm not getting enough throttle plate opening at WOT. Can anyone share photos of how far open your Tii throttle plate is at WOT at the pump? I've been through the synchronization procedure and am confident I got that set up properly. It just seems that the pump is reaching WOT before the Throttle plate. Thoughts? Thanks!
  8. Hey All, I'm looking for a Tii water neck, coolant flange, bypass manifold , divider, or whatever else you want to call it. Part Number 11 53 1 255 158 Number 4 in the picture (though the picture shown a carbureted car part, not the Tii part) It should have 2 sensor bungs on top and a screw-in hose fitting at the end, perpendicular to the two large hose flanges. I'm in Portland, will pay for shipping. Thanks, Chris Location: Portland, OR, USA
  9. Thanks for the info everyone. I got a great offer for a NOS part from a FAQer. Blunt: I may be interested in keeping one in stock at the shop if those pumps you've got on order come through. Thanks Again! This community is truly wonderful. -Chris
  10. Hey Errybody, It seems Tii water pumps are NLA. This is news to me as I've never tried to buy one before. The dealer says the PN is still good (i.e. not yet listed as obsolete), though there are none in the USA, Germany, or anywhere else. Is this the reality of the situation? Anyone still have a stockpile of Tii pumps available for sale? Or maybe a re-builder somewhere? Sorry if this topic has been beaten to death already, but a quick forum search of "Tii water pump" yielded no results. Thanks, Chris
  11. Yeah, well... While I generally agree with you, the K-fisch and all other original parts are being rebuilt/reused, as this is a spec rebuild for a factory turbo restoration. Thus the nit-pickyness. I just ordered a 0.060 inch MLS gasket, figuring that the deck height will change by a few thousandths as the pistons expand, and my final CR will be right around 6.8-6.9:1. If I were building a turbo motor with efi and programmable ignition, that would be a different story.
  12. To pick this thread back up again, here's what I found after receiving the head from the machinist: The cylinder head is a 121Ti head WITH modification to the combustion chamber to the effect of an additional hemispherical relief over the entirety of the combustion chamber. I measured the modified combustion chamber volume at 65-66cc. That spec along with the 9cc relief in the piston top, 0.020 deck height, 89.47mm bore and 80.47mm stroke yield a static compression ratio of only 6.76:1 using a standard thickness 1.50 mm ( 0.060 in) head gasket. How did BMW get 6.9:1? If the gasket thickness were 0.050 inches the CR works out to be 6.87:1, much closer to the stated 6.9:1 CR in the literature. Anybody know if the head gasket will compress 0.010 inches when installed? Basically the nut I'm trying to crack is whether or not I should use the standard thickness cutting ring gasket, or order a MLS gasket to my specifications. How much will a standard vs cutting ring vs MLS gasket compress when the cylinder head is torqued? Thanks, Chris
  13. Well, that was the first thing that I tried. I will double check my wiring ant try again, but I fail to understand why there would be so much information on tach adapter circuits and even a tach adapter IC offered if the solution were so simple. Maybe i'll be surprised. Then again, I'm powering the coil pack from the original coil wire (due to simplicity of installation) and NOT from the coil power pin on the megajolt. I have a 6 fuse car and with driving lights and a stereo installed, my sources of key-on power are fewer and more precious than with the later 12 fuse cars. Perhaps this approach renders the tach out pin useless? Thanks.
  14. Hello 02 peeps, I finished my megajolt install over the weekend (car runs like the wind!) and just hooked up the tach circuit, but the tach reads low. I've tried substituting several different value resistors with no real change. Any suggestions? This is the circuit I used: I've tried with and without the resistor after the diodes. The tach only works with the resistor to ground installed, and has no noticeable change with or without the resistor in series to the tach. The resistor I've tried different values on is the resistor to ground. Values I've tried are 100k, 10k, 1k. Maybe I should go the opposite way? 1M perhaps? Thanks, Chris
  15. Also, what plug gap are folks running w/ Megajolt/EDIS? I'm thinking the .050" recommended for the Escort 1.9 should be about right, but experiences otherwise are welcome.
  16. Yeah, looked at the ignition map library at Autosport labs- several people asking for the same thing as me, but no one posting maps. Scanner- I'll start with your map as a baseline, but I think I'm gonna need much more retarded timing in some places, and more advanced in others. I've got significantly more compression than stock. At the moment I'm plotting values from the 033 Ti distributor, will compare them to what you've got. Milling my JB welded crank pulley today after work, waiting for the sensor bracket in the mail to get the trigger wheel alignment. Reading everything i can find on ignition timing in the mean... Thx for the replies.
  17. A lot of vibration while letting out the clutch on first speaks to an imbalanced or poorly supported driveshaft. If you mounted your transmission too low in the rear there will be excessive flex in the guibo from misalignment between the driveshaft to transmission, and a resulting vibration under heave driveline loading (ie: 1st gear acceleration). Additionally and otherwise, you could have a bad center support bearing, your driveshaft could be too long, improperly balanced, or have bad universal joints. Basically, it sounds like a driveshaft issue. To confirm it being driveshaft, stomp the gas at low rpms in 2nd gear. If you feel a vibration from the middle of the car, it's driveshaft. Oil leaks are completely unrelated. Valve cover nuts are somewhere between 72 -90in/lbs. Moderate to light pressure with a 5-6" 1/4 drive rachet. Not much at all.
  18. I don't know if the megajolt has logging, I think it has the potential. I have access to a dyno, but it costs. I do have a long stretch of road running up Mt. Hood, and I think with data logging that is probably nearly as good. No wide band installed yet, but putting a bung in is no trouble. My money is currently spent on the megajolt setup, though i understand the wideband will help extract the best tune from the carbs. I suppose that like most everything else, I'll just have to try and err. Some baseline maps would be helpful though, if anyone hase them handy.
  19. Hey all, I've been having some ignition troubles on my 02, and determined that my distributor is plain wornt-the-fuch-out. After thinking about the cost/benefit of rebuilding and recurving my distributor versus converting to crank fired ignition, I went to the junk yard and grabbed an EDIS setup, then came home and ordered a Megajolt. It seems like I'll get better power and economy for similar money from the electronic ignition, authenticity be damned. I'm NOT looking for a debate on electronic ignition vs distributors, or any such unsolicited opinionation from the masses . I've ordered the parts, spent the money, and made up my mind. If I regret it later I'll sell the megajolt and EDIS stuff and rebuild my dizzy. What I'm after is advice on ignition maps. I'm currently running 10:1 compression pistons and 121Ti head with minor intake porting, 292 cam, stahl headers and dual 40DCOEs. Compression readings are 195-200 per cylinder. Load signal will come from a MAP sensor, fed from tapped intake runners and a log type plenum for signal normalization. Here's the question: I know I should be able to run a default 4 cylinder map with acceptable drivability, but will an ignition map based on the advance curve to the Ti distributor be better optimized? Does anyone have maps already known to work well with this type of setup? It seems to me that the Ti dizzy advance curve has no provision for advance modulation based on load, only engine speed. Anyone who has been down this road and found the ruts already, please chime in. K.C. Donahue, I know you know your stuff, but I also know that your Megajolted motor is a Tii. I'm sure there is great similarity, but significant differences as well. Your input in most welcome. The plan is to get this project underway this week, and hopefully be running sans-distributor next weekend. Any input between now and then would be most appreciated. Thanks, Chris
  20. Well, no head yet from the machinist. Will probably be next week before I have a measurement. I will be sure to follow up and share my findings.
  21. Looking at my graduated cylinder this morning, it appears that the volume of the piston dish is closer to 9cc than 10cc. There was still a bit of oil clinging to the walls of the graduated cylinder when I made my initial reading. I will hopefully have the head today, and contribute my findings to the head volume debate.
  22. Well, the answer is 10mLs +-.5mLs. I dug out the graduated syringe, low viscosity oil, and leveled the block. 10mLs.
  23. Sounds like we all need to pool some money to get c.d. a new computer! Start a new Sticky! Buy C.D. a PC!
  24. Hmm, no more C.D., eh? I tried the google searching and forum searching, and found the depth of the dish but not the volume. I suppose I could get out the calculus textbooks and try and figure it out, but I don't know if the dish is hemispherical or a complex curve. I could also try to measure the volume physically, but I was hoping it wouldn't come to that. Thanks for the input.
  25. Hey c.d.iesel, Pat, Byron You're the master(s) of esoteric BMW technical info. Do you have any information on the piston crown volume for '74 turbo pistons? I'm starting assembly on the motor for my pal Stan's Turbo (vin 4290767) and I'm in the process of calculating necessary head gasket thickness for the proper compression ratio. My blue service manual doesn't have any of the addendum for the turbo models. The pistons are new Mahle 89.47 dish top pistons. Got a spec on the volume of the dish? Thanks, Chris
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