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  1. Some people on this forum have a strange predilection to throwing objects into “Neighbors Pools”....... wha’sup with that? -Toca
  2. Gone thru this Whole thread and could only read write-up. Not one photo showed up.....that’s disappointing
  3. Oh now I’ve got you inviting me to Mid Am....... Barney tried that on me yesterday and I guess we can hope that date is available considering CV-19.......personally I’d be ecstatic to be there because I’d get a chance to mix-it with Ray & Barney.....so lets cross our fingers and click our heel’s w/matching finger nails, girls!!!!! Yes..........I have no idea what Ray’s referring to....... somebody wanna fill me in?
  4. Only reason you said that’s because you want to make sure it doesn’t clash with yours....... car I mean (I think)... 😉
  5. Built me one just like Your’s...... nice. Hope it wont take me that long to use it........
  6. While inspecting the engine for inconsistencies I noticed this dark area just below the carb. It gave me pause for thought and I reasoned that it was caused by a leak between the manifold and the carburetor gasket. When I got to that area during removal of the carb, I noticed that the 4 nuts holding the carb in place were very loose...... as though they had never been torqued. I have a feeling I’m going to run into this problem a lot. Seems Brian Kings employees weren’t as thorough as they should have been (that was 10yrs ago when I had the engine refreshed) at a cost of 8grand. Yes.... I was a fucktard🤪 and NO, I was not stoned...
  7. I too have a 74 non-Tii 02 and was doing this yesterday and while the suggestion to use a 6 point socket MAY work.... if the nut is rounded, then you need to use an extractor socket for rounded out nuts. Something like this.... The only problem I see would be the thickness of the walls of the sockets..... It wasn’t an easy job to do. Good luck.... And yes....doing this seemingly minor task IS akin to having a Death Wish but it’s critically important to be patient.... Ask me how I know?
  8. Do these nuts have a smaller Outside Diameter than the 12mm bolts I finally/painstakingly removed? What do VW’s have to do with these nuts? Thanks for the quick response... -Toca
  9. I tried starting the engine 2days ago and it seems there’s a problem with the starter. The bendix gear engages but seems to be off kilter or the gear pulls back enough to create a grinding noise and the fan stops rotating. At least I know the engine’s not seized because if the fan is spinning it’s free to move the crank. Mai never got to the point of acutually cranking. Just a couple of movements from the fan blade. That’s plenty for me to begin dis-assembling. So I started with the carburetor then moved on to the alternator. I left the pivot bracket attached to the engine. Removing the alternator gave me room to remove the intake manifold. In particular, the lower nuts on the studs where the intake attaches are OBVIOUSLY under the intake manifold. Starting from the nose going back, the 2nd nut was hidden and there was no room for a wrench. Possibly a thin walled socket but I used a stubby open/closed wrench and painstakingly removed that nut. The problem was that that nut would rub on the bottom of the manifold. I didn’t exactly round over that nut but there was little clearance before the nut would make contact with the manifold. It came off but I’m going to put this situation into my head so I can modify the manifold so that, when I put it back in, I’ll be able to get a good grip of the nut to torque to value. On another note, I’ve noticed that a lot of the nut’s and bolts I’m removing have not been torqued. I remember, when I was the fucktarded paying public, I paid close to 8 grand to bring the engine back to life. I should have known this guy was a crook because I remember going to SD to pick up the car and the valves had not even been adjusted. That was the condition of the car when this fucktard told me it was done. His name is Brian’s King, I believe. He claimed to work exclusively on Porches and BMW’s. I wouldn’t let him work on my toilet..... Then I started on the starter.... having already removed the intake manifold. Two small nuts held the starter in a bracket. And, 2 17mm nuts and bolts to release it from the bell housing and the starter was in my hand. Obviously there are many hoses and electrical connectors that have to be dis-connected before you can remove all these parts. All in all, it was breezy job. CHeers!
  10. Hey JohnPaul, Since the title of your post is “Installing 635CSI seat in a 74Tii” can you provide some photo’s of the actual “INSTALATION”? I’m in the process of trying to install these very same seats but don’t have clue about how to SECURELY place these seats. If I can return the favor I’ll be more than happy to do that, thanks ahead. -Noel TocaChakra Rivera
  11. Remove these 2 10mm bolts located at the leading/hinged portion of the door. Very easy removal. There’s also the white knob that meets with the interior light button. The interior light button is located at the door jam of the trailing end of the front passenger fender The white contact knob can be seen here Next..... we’ll remove the 5t=4
  12. The top right corner is where we’ll concentrate on removing the vent wing window. Note the large cut-out to the left of the spring (wrong spring for that spot) near the leading edge 1/3 from the top of the door. Also note the Stainless steel trim that abutts the vent window but travels from RT to LFT INTO the door. The large cut-out that looks like there’s and Number 7 in it, just below where I just typed 7. At the end of this trim is a hidden bolt. The 2nd hidden bolt and it’s removal is required to remove the wing window. Ill post a photo of these holes/cutouts and the location of the hidden bolts next. This is near the 1/3 portion from the top and that’s a 10mm bolt that screws into an threaded opening but not before going thru a looped arm that IS the vent window roller knob thingy Once you’ve located the 2 hidden bolts then by that time you will have figured out the the see’able bolts on vent window will be removed and you’ll be able to slide the whole vent window out from the top. NOTE: roll the window down before you attemp to remove the ventilation wing window. The vent window out you’re able to see the one short arm (rusty) where the 1st hidden bolt is attached. The long stainless trim abutting the vent window and dropping INTO the window is where you’ll find the 2nd hidden bolt, nut and star washer can be seen in the photo below This long end goes...... HERE......... ( This cutout is the same as the first photo in this line-up ). You can see the bolt screws into a captive nut hidden behind the L bracket in the photo..... Next- We’ll remove the door-check....
  13. I removed the door opener mech and the door catch/latch mech. Really straight forward process... First item I removed was the door latch mechanism. This came out easily after removing the 2- 4MM ALLEN bolts holding the door/catch. Then, 2 Phillip screws/bolts to remove. I removed all in one w/rod and opening lever with the door latch mechanism attached together. Next- Removal of the Vent window
  14. Started removing the hood, trunk lid and the doors. While removing the drivers door I noticed that the bracket that the door-check pins to was very loose. It’s not suppose to be loose; it’s suppose to be spot welded to the inside of the fender/door-jam where you can see the interior light button. Just below the button you can see 2 horizontal rectangular openings. That’s where the door check bracket protrudes out to receive the door check arm/pivot. I bagged and tagged the bracket and will search the forum to learn how to repair this seemingly minor issue..... While researching the subject I learned a lot about the door-checks. One- The OE D.C.’s are expensive as hell. I decided on replacing the DC’s with DC’s from a Mercedes 300D. Everything I’ve looked up regarding these DC’s gives me the indication that I may have to either place washers behind the actual door check from inside the door itself. If that’s not possible I will have to shorten the pivot arm that protrudes out of the inside portion of the door itself. Misssing doorcheck bracket on DS door After removing the doors I photo’d as much of the doors as I felt was relevant to help me remember how to reassemble the inner parts (regulator, glass, adjusters, nuts and bolts. First item I removed was the door latch mechanism. This came out easily after removing the 2- 4MM allen bolts holding the door/catch. Then, 2 Phillip screws/bolts to remove. I removed all in one w/rod and opening lever with the door latch mechanism attached together. Then, the mirrors. The following photo’s show where rust is located. So far, rust is in the usual suspect areas. This shot shows the bottom of the passenger door. Once the innards are outtered, I’ll sand, treat, primer and weather proof the inside with possibly POR15.... I’ve only started on one door so how I will weather-proof these doors is still under investigation. Seems to be a lot of white adhesive for the visqueen sheet that goes between the door and the door cards. A lot of rust on the bottom weep holes. A view of the hinge side and the door check pivot arm opening. 2- 10M bolts keep the door-check in place. This is shot of the rubber cushion?/ plug that is place on the leading corner near the 1/4 ventilation window. I’ve read that these have a tendency to fall off/ come off. Their still available thru BluntTec. Left- Part# 51-71-6-454-227. Right- 51-71-6-454-228 List’s for $17.06 ea. Same rubber cushion/plug Inside door sill rust...... Next I’ll remove the window winder and door catch/latch mechanisms......

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