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    San Diego, California
  • Interests
    I enjoy being a ‘Creator’. I was a carpenter, garbage truck driver, police officer, landscaper business and now I’ve settled on my lifelong goal of being a musician/entertainer/curiosity. I love all facets of life..... the good, the bad, the impossible. In my world nothing’s impossible. So here’s to “Creating something everyday!!!

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  1. Some people on this forum have a strange predilection to throwing objects into “Neighbors Pools”....... wha’sup with that? -Toca
  2. Gone thru this Whole thread and could only read write-up. Not one photo showed up.....that’s disappointing
  3. Oh now I’ve got you inviting me to Mid Am....... Barney tried that on me yesterday and I guess we can hope that date is available considering CV-19.......personally I’d be ecstatic to be there because I’d get a chance to mix-it with Ray & Barney.....so lets cross our fingers and click our heel’s w/matching finger nails, girls!!!!! Yes..........I have no idea what Ray’s referring to....... somebody wanna fill me in?
  4. Only reason you said that’s because you want to make sure it doesn’t clash with yours....... car I mean (I think)... 😉
  5. Built me one just like Your’s...... nice. Hope it wont take me that long to use it........
  6. While inspecting the engine for inconsistencies I noticed this dark area just below the carb. It gave me pause for thought and I reasoned that it was caused by a leak between the manifold and the carburetor gasket. When I got to that area during removal of the carb, I noticed that the 4 nuts holding the carb in place were very loose...... as though they had never been torqued. I have a feeling I’m going to run into this problem a lot. Seems Brian Kings employees weren’t as thorough as they should have been (that was 10yrs ago when I had the engine refreshed) at a cost of 8grand. Yes....
  7. I too have a 74 non-Tii 02 and was doing this yesterday and while the suggestion to use a 6 point socket MAY work.... if the nut is rounded, then you need to use an extractor socket for rounded out nuts. Something like this.... The only problem I see would be the thickness of the walls of the sockets..... It wasn’t an easy job to do. Good luck.... And yes....doing this seemingly minor task IS akin to having a Death Wish but it’s critically important to be patient.... Ask me how I know?
  8. Do these nuts have a smaller Outside Diameter than the 12mm bolts I finally/painstakingly removed? What do VW’s have to do with these nuts? Thanks for the quick response... -Toca
  9. I tried starting the engine 2days ago and it seems there’s a problem with the starter. The bendix gear engages but seems to be off kilter or the gear pulls back enough to create a grinding noise and the fan stops rotating. At least I know the engine’s not seized because if the fan is spinning it’s free to move the crank. Mai never got to the point of acutually cranking. Just a couple of movements from the fan blade. That’s plenty for me to begin dis-assembling. So I started with the carburetor then moved on to the alternator. I left the pivot bracket attached to the engine. Removing th
  10. Hey JohnPaul, Since the title of your post is “Installing 635CSI seat in a 74Tii” can you provide some photo’s of the actual “INSTALATION”? I’m in the process of trying to install these very same seats but don’t have clue about how to SECURELY place these seats. If I can return the favor I’ll be more than happy to do that, thanks ahead. -Noel TocaChakra Rivera
  11. Remove these 2 10mm bolts located at the leading/hinged portion of the door. Very easy removal. There’s also the white knob that meets with the interior light button. The interior light button is located at the door jam of the trailing end of the front passenger fender The white contact knob can be seen here Next..... we’ll remove the 5t=4
  12. The top right corner is where we’ll concentrate on removing the vent wing window. Note the large cut-out to the left of the spring (wrong spring for that spot) near the leading edge 1/3 from the top of the door. Also note the Stainless steel trim that abutts the vent window but travels from RT to LFT INTO the door. The large cut-out that looks like there’s and Number 7 in it, just below where I just typed 7. At the end of this trim is a hidden bolt. The 2nd hidden bolt and it’s removal is required to remove the wing window. Ill post a photo of these holes/cutouts and the location of the
  13. I removed the door opener mech and the door catch/latch mech. Really straight forward process... First item I removed was the door latch mechanism. This came out easily after removing the 2- 4MM ALLEN bolts holding the door/catch. Then, 2 Phillip screws/bolts to remove. I removed all in one w/rod and opening lever with the door latch mechanism attached together. Next- Removal of the Vent window
  14. Started removing the hood, trunk lid and the doors. While removing the drivers door I noticed that the bracket that the door-check pins to was very loose. It’s not suppose to be loose; it’s suppose to be spot welded to the inside of the fender/door-jam where you can see the interior light button. Just below the button you can see 2 horizontal rectangular openings. That’s where the door check bracket protrudes out to receive the door check arm/pivot. I bagged and tagged the bracket and will search the forum to learn how to repair this seemingly minor issue..... While researching the subject
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