gregh

I am having this exact same problem. I'm thinking about trying another water pump. Let us know if you figure it out.

Thanks again guys. Midnight motors was less than half the price. No more Car Tenders for us.

Thanks to all for your replies (esp. Roadhog with the kind offer of assistance). We are trying Midnight Motors but will have to consider the tow costs. Lesson learned next time we'll start off at a Midnight Motors.

I have loaned my 72 2002 tii to a friend in Seattle for a couple of years while I live overseas. She has been having trouble with the clutch (clutch goes to the floor). Over the phone we diagnosed master or slave cylinder or a hydraulic leak. She has taken it to a mechanic (Car Tenders in Seattle) and they say that it's the master cylinder but recommended replacing the slave cylinder too. Master and Slave = $1125 Master only = $625 It's been a long time since I've had anything done in a shop but these prices are nearly double what I was expecting. And I certainly don't see how doing the slave cylinder could cost an ADDITIONAL $500. (I priced the M&S cylinder pair on Bavarian Autosport for ~$150) QUESTIONS 1) Are these quotes highway robbery or am I out of touch? 2) Should we replace Master and Slave Cylinders as a pair? 3) Is there any way to make sure that it's the Master and not the Slave cylinder? 4) Any other shops in central Seattle that you could recommend? (Don't want to tow it too far) Thanks heaps!

Thanks guys. I'm at work so I can't take photos right now but will try later today. The splines look the same on the new wheel as on the aftermarket wheel that I just removed. So I'm guessing that splines on the new wheel are damaged.

I have an early '02 circa 1971 (RHD). When I was visiting the US recently I purchased a later model steering wheel (4 spokes with a padded centre). QUESTION 1 I brought the wheel back with me to New Zealand and the splines do not seem to match. Forum searches suggest that the splines should be the same. Any thoughts? The first 1/8 of the splines on the new wheel are galled and it may simply be that I am difficulty getting it started but I'm afraid of forcing it on. QUESTION 2 I am also missing the horn contact ring and can't remember whether this has the tab that cancels the turn signals. Is this tab on the ring? Cheers! Greg

Thanks for the tip.

Thanks everyone! Looks like we'll give Car Tender or as my friend Juli calls them, Chicken Tenders, a try.

I'm looking for a recommendation for a mechanic in Seattle to work on a 1972 tii. I am loaning my non-mechanically-inclined friends my car for a couple of years while I'm out of the country. Searching the archives it appears that everyone is a Brian Capp fan. I have no doubt that he is great - in fact I took my car to him a couple of times when lived in Seattle - nice guy - very high quality work. But I'm hoping to find someone a little bit closer to Seattle for routine maintenance (oil changes, timing, brake fluid, adjust valves). Right now it needs idle and A/F set - so the mechanic should know the basics of the k-fisher. Any thoughts? Car Tender? Help!

AC was a dealer option not a factory option. The radiators are the same. That shouldn't stop you from upgrading though!

I bought front spring pads from Bav Auto Sport just a couple of months ago. They were only a couple of dollars each. Some of those guys don't know their inventory.

I did this once too! But I didn't have my license with me. I told the cop my story and he believed me - probably because I was still covered in grease.

Yeah! There's no sun in Wales! That's a beauty find congratulations!! Reminds me of the time that I bought a fairly nice 3.0 CS with triple sidedraft webers - alpina manifolrd/plenum - etc for $1500 because it wasn't running right. Took the Alpina Stuff/Webers off sold on ebay for almost as much money as I paid for the car. That paid for a more realistic carb setup for this otherwise stock CS - it ran like a champ thereafter.

1970 ‘02 with Ireland Engineering 5-speed kit – with rebuilt drive shaft – 3-bolt flange – new guibo – new center bearing. I’ve probably got less than 1500 miles on 5-speed setup. Ever since I’ve installed the 5-speed I’ve had problems with a noise that sounds like it’s coming from guibo/center bearing area. For lack of a better description the noise sounds like muffled popcorn popping (or marbles in a rotating rubber drum) – related to the speed – when I put my hand on the DS tunnel while driving I can feel vibration. The noise is much worse under acceleration and at slow speeds. In fact the noise/vibration appears to disappear altogether at higher speeds – say above 40 mph. I replaced the center bearing and that helped for a little while – maybe a couple of hundred miles. But the noise came back. I have not changed the guibo but when I changed the center bearing the guibo looked in good shape – no cracks – mushiness etc. When reinstalling the driveshaft after replacing the center bearing it took quite a lot of effort to get the driveshaft in place – it seemed like the DS was a bit on the long side. This may be because I didn’t loosen up the differential mounts. I’m pretty sure the drive shaft is straight in the up and down direction. I can’t say whether it’s straight in the left/right direction – I’ve never checked and I don’t know if that can be an issue. If the seam running the length of the bottom of transmission is the centerline of the transmission then it is within an eighth of an-inch of the being centered (based on the distance from the original transmission mounting tabs). When turning the driveshaft by hand there doesn’t appear to be any interference. The last piece of the puzzle is that when I put the car back up on jackstands this evening I noticed that the rear subframe mounts were completely shot. The rubber bushing and the tabs on both sides were hanging a good inch below the bottom mounts! I guess this explains the thud noise I hear under hard acceleration and when the rear wheels spin on sand when started from a standstill. There’s also a lot of leaking oil in and around the differential area. So after all that background what am I doing wrong? Are my bad subframe mounts causing a wobble in my driveshaft, which in turn causes the center bearing to fail? Or do I need to try work harder on centering the DS?

I've always found that it helps a little if you use a c-clamp (or c-jawed vise grips) on the shoe to hold it in place against the backing plate (not too tight). That way the whole thing doesn't move as you try to insert the spring in the shoe hole. One of those screwdriver-style nail pullers help too but I usually just use pliers. In the end muscle, luck and patience are key.

Aardvark sells precut door mylar kits ( http://www.2002parts.com/html/door_panel_kit.html ). I don't know how well they work - you could search the archives or maybe somebody will chime in here.

Sorry brain fahrt! I meant safelite auto glass ( http://www.safelite.com/ ).

I hate to say it but you can try National Auto Glass. They did my front windshield for $200 - I supplied the gasket and lockstrip. On their website you can get a firm online quote - at least for comparisons sake.

You may want to check out Aardvark ( http://www.2002parts.com/ ). He lists pricing for re-chromed bumpers. I would guess that his pricing would be comprable to what you get in the Bay Area minus shipping.

Check your local parts suppliers - they should be able to order rebuilt calipers for you. Expect to pay between $40 to $75 per caliper with a core. Even the national parts suppliers like Autozone have rebuilt calipers. You can also get caliper rebuild kits from the mail order parts suppliers (Bav Auto - etc) but you're probably not going to save much money (It's hard to stomach paying $30+ per side for a couple o-rings and boots). It's a good time to change your brake lines while you're doing this project!

Take some time and loctite in your exhaust studs (per FAQ) while you have the head out! Also check the stud length to make sure that they'll work with the manifold.

You can even try Autozone, Checker, local independent parts houses for rebuilt calipers. When I was doing this a couple of weeks ago I found a price range of about $40 to $75 bucks each for rebuilt tii calipers (plus core). Autozone even lists them on their website! http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=C001&UserAction=performMoreDetail&Parameters=TRUE%7C%7EBrake+Caliper+-+Front%7C%7E%2427.00%7C%7EFENCO_REMAN%7C%7EDriver+side+++++++++%7C%7EFALSE%7C%7EFALSE%7C%7E692449%7C%7E2744%7C%7EC8817%7C%7E4+piston+unit%7C%7E%2441.99%7C%7EBMW%7C%7E2002%7C%7E1972%7C%7ELLT%7C%7E12.0%7C%7ENONE%7C%7EV One word of warning though...one of the calipers that I got from the local parts house was incorrect (it was also too big -rubbed against the hub and the wheel). So it took another couple of days to get the correct caliper. Good luck!

Heat and some good luck that's going to be my strategy. Thanks all for your responses.

The new lower control arms come with the inner/outer bushings already inserted - ask whoever you're buying the parts from to confirm. If they say that's not the case press them to make sure...they've been included on the 4 sets that I've bought in the past 5 years. You should probably get 6 of those special bolts (the ones with the hole in them that allows you to wire the bolts together) at the bottom of the strut (where it connects to the ball joints). The heads on those bolts get pretty rounded because they can be a pain to get to - plus they're probably pretty old by now. These bolts are pretty pricey. If you take apart the struts you could also get new spring pads. Sway bar bushings - 8 total, SB bushing bolts - 2 total, SB bushing washers 8 total. The bolts get pretty banged up so it's a good idea to order them. There are also two special plastic washers that go between the tie rods and the centerlink. The idler arm bushings are a two part bushing (upper and lower). However, I'm not sure if they're sold as a pair or individually. My old rcpt shows them being sold as a pair but the Bav Auto website says "two req'd per car." You may want to check on that. (@$20 each - wow!). You'll need new cotter pins for the lower control arm bushing nuts and the idler arm bushing nut. The rest of the stuff should come with new lock nuts or nuts/cotter pins (e.g., ball joints, tie rods, center link etc). You may want to take a quick look at the rest of the fasteners to see if anything looks rounded or suspect. While you're doing all of this you could also do new front wheel bearings, brakes, brake lines.... This is one of those projects that can make a heck of a difference in your enjoyment of the car. It's not too hard but it will take some time, tools, &muscles and you're going to get pissed off a couple of times (esp with the compliance bearings) but it's well worth it! Good Luck!

They actually have pretty close to the correct length black (10.9?) "automotive stud" with a shoulder at the local Ace Hardware. But all the discussion about 'fit class' in the FAQs has me a little spooked. The last thing I want to do is go through this a third time...