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otto

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  1. I'll chime in on the love, and a belated Happy Birthday Steve! Totally agree on all the great positive comments above. Since I moved to Minneapolis, I always try and stop in to pick up my parts to have a quick chat with Steve, and he's always interested to talk even though I know I'm just interrupting him on the job. Super good guy.
  2. '73 Sahara down off jack stands for first time since last October! Yesterday I finished up the differential seals and re-installed it, hooked up a new IE exhaust, and lowered it down. This morning after troubleshooting the timing for like 3 hours, (figured out I had it 180 degrees off :/), got her running and test driving, then oil change. This car runs great! It's so interesting how different it is to my '76 with IE stage 1 springs, smaller 320is steering wheel, bigger sway bars, and camber plates. The '73 with it's original everything is so easy to steer and drive. Engine is tight, and it's running all right. Woo hoo!
  3. I GOT IT! It was indeed 180 degrees out. I pushed the car in gear another 360 degree turn of the flywheel to TDC mark, then the rotor was pointing 180 opposite direction. Pulled dizzy and moved rotor -- now running! Jeeez, can't believe that took me multiple hours to figure out... oh well, on to dialing it in now. Thanks for the help everyone
  4. @ray_ I'm thinking this too, and perhaps the pencil was confirming exhaust stroke not compression stroke. But, what is the fix / how do I move it 180 degrees?
  5. The car was running great when I put it up on jacks last fall. I had put a Pertronix in it and got it purring. Confirmed the plug wires in correct order (though this wouldn't have made any sense at all given the above, but still I had to do it as I'm pulling out my hair). The dizzy has a 72 stamp in the little circle facing front on the shaft. And yeah, it's a '73 Sahara, not my '76 Mint. I do have a timing light. Not sure how this would help until I get it running? I've lined up the rotor with the notch on the distributor housing. I'm wondering if somehow I'm not actually on TDC for cylinder one with this process, but through all the research and reading keep coming to same procedure of: - find flywheel TDC - insert dizzy so that rotor aligns with notch and cap w/ cyl #1 ^^^ is what i've done three times. each time trying to do small adjustments clockwise or counter, after it doesn't work right away, to see if it's just slightly off. but always getting the backfire/carb like it's way outta whack or something
  6. Lasf Fall I put the '73 up on jacks in the garage to start the restore process of redoing all the engine, trans, and diff seals, new exhaust repair backup light, etc. Last night I achieved a major milestone and completed all of the under-car work (just re-sealing the front engine seal remains) and got it down off the jack stands for the first time in 10 months. Huzzah! And now 4 hours of tinkering with the dizzy later, I'm still not getting the timing right. So close, yet so far... I've found TDC with the OT marked bar-line on the flywheel. I've confirmed it with the pencil in cylinder #1. I've aligned the rotor to be on cylinder #1 plug, and also roughly 3 degrees ahead of the timing mark on the distributor base. Turning over the engine consistently yields occasional backfires out the carb, and every once in a while out the exhaust. Turning the dizzy in small increments and re-trying, in both directions, doesn't seem to change anything. I've done the entire procedure over again three times, to make sure I didn't get something wrong. Same results. Starting to pull my hair out and out of ideas... Figure I'm probably missing something basic but I just can't figure out what it is. I've done this procedure previously (though many years ago), and didn't have a stumper like this. Any ideas??
  7. Hey guys Pulling out the seals for the half shafts I found them to be quite difficult to get out. Not completely stiff, but definitely not coming out as a complete unit (both sides). I used a screwdriver to work out bits at a time, and have gotten to the point in the photos. From looking at diagrams in manuals it appears that there should not be a metal lip like I'm currently seeing, having removed all the rubber. Is what I'm seeing an inner part of the seal itself and then I just need to figure out how to get this remaining bit out? Seems that way but wanted to double check. Also any tips appreciated on removal -- heat + ?. Thanks! Dug aka Otto (diff newb)
  8. I did my bumper conversion to early style myself, having never done this before. I think I spent somewhere around 5 - 7 hours in total on it. I didn't have any troubles removing any bolts (no torching). I chose to use the early mounts up front, and covered the large late-bumper access holes with pieces from the big bumper, and put fog lights on the early bumpers in front of that. Back was super easy, as noted above. Would I do it again? Depends on the car. Sometimes I regret not having a stock car (including the original steelies), but for the vast most part I really like the clean look of the early bumpers on my '76 mingtrun. But I want to take it farther and do a side marker delete :)
  9. I put Kumho Solus 185/70 on my (relatively) newly acquired '73. It had tires from the 80's on it when I got it and needed something pronto, and this is what I was able to find. I can't report on performance other than some gentle cruising as I sorted out the car before putting it up on jacks in the garage last Fall, however. Price is right: https://www.amazon.com/Kumho-Solus-TA11-All-Season-Radial/dp/B01A0PS5ZG @adawil2002 curious for your hesitations on this tire. I'm hopeful to discover myself yet this Fall as I'm working hard to get Carolina road-worthy, but would be interested to know the concerns
  10. All right, stamp says 11 and 40 on top, and below this is a 1 over 7. So if I'm interpreting the coding correctly this means I have a 3.64 ratio built in January '77. Right? I'm neither excited nor displeased to know this isn't a 3.91. I've got that in my '76 with a 5 speed and it's great, but this car has a 4 speed which I don't have any immediate plans to replace so the 3.64 will be nicer on the highway.
  11. Plot is thickening.... I'll post a photo of the stamps when I get home tonight. (also sorry my bad on the gasket cover)
  12. Thanks for the great insights everyone!
  13. Hooray! I got the differential out of my '73 that I'm slowly working on sorting out and getting running after many years stored in a garage. It was demonstrating leaks on one of the output shafts and at the rear cover. After getting it out, I started cleaning about a 1/4" of sludge all over it, especially near the rear and one side. As it started cleaning up, I noticed that there's two yellow dots painted on the top of the diff. Hmmm, me thinks this may not be the original differential for this car. (I bought from original owner but he had spotty records). I got the cover off and see there's no gasket at all! Well there's one obvious place I'll be able to improve it. Then, turning my attention to the output flanges I see that these flanges do not match the shop manual or realoem diagrams. There's no center bolt holding the flanges in. Curious. And, uh oh, now I'm stuck. After all this fun, I'm left with two questions I'm hoping the hive can help me answer: 1. What is this differential? It is stamped 01M76 on the outside. On the inside of the rear cover is 1.204.113 225 2. How do I access the shaft seals?


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