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DanOKC

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Everything posted by DanOKC

  1. I bought a Walloth & Nesch Rad & have the same issue. I did not read enough threads to realize I'd have an issue with AC, so I have yet to install it. What was involved to modify to use the original hose & put the tabs on for the shroud ? I have plenty of original radiators for core's. Is it possible for shop to use anything off of the original radiators to do the mods ?
  2. Hi faqers, long time no post. I'm sorting out parts to sell & had a parts car that was rusty, I didn't get the title, and decided to part it out. It had tii boxed trailing arms. It has regular 2002 brakes, not tii. I hadn't noticed til today as I'm shuffling parts on the back porch, it has nuts on the half shaft bolts, and not only that, it has a different shape on the CV joint end. So I'm curious about both the flanges not being threaded and being thinner, where it has nuts on the back side, and the shape of the CV joints. Are these just 72 or 71 year differences ? All my other cars were 73 to 76. Thanks !
  3. My first 2002 only had a one to two gallons of gas when I got plowed into by a 70's Monte Carlo with it's big bumpers & long hood. Gas tank got shortened a bit as you can see. It did not leak, did not explode. www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/69147-my-first-love-73-2002-in-its-final-resting-spot-in-1980/ Car was only 7 years old then. His speed was estimated at 60 to 65. I was stopped with my foot on brake. Monte Carlo driver had been drinking.
  4. How to remove lock cylinder without drilling the roll pin out. Tools required: 1/8“ drift punch or pin punch Hammer Flat blade screwdriver OK, I posted long ago about this, I heard of how to do this from a BMW independent mechanic long ago, after I had already drilled out one or two. I have done it once or twice before, but decided to take my time & document it this time with pics. It is much quicker, easier to do, then using a drill, IMO. Other reasons: less mess, no chance of drilling into the lock and ruining it. The lock is not damaged either, it was designed for this to be done this way. Maybe someone with the blue books can verify if it is mentioned there. All I did: 1. Insert key, turn it to fahrt. 2. Line up 1/8“ punch, tap the hammer 1 to 3 times, you want the pin to go in barely 1/8" took me 3 light taps, & I emphasize “light” and only 1/8", no more. The pic that shows the punch through the hole is only to show the 1/8" size fits. Don't go that far with the punch to remove your lock. 3. Take flat blade screwdriver & pry lightly but firmly and pull lightly on key or other side/edge of cylinder, it should come out, with only little resistance in first 1/4“. Note the pic of the lock cylinder once removed, the pin is just flush with the cylinder. I still need to address the issue of the pin, it ends up inside the lock mech. If you are installing a new lock cylinder, this is not an issue. If you want to reuse this lock cylinder, you need to either drill the lock pin out, which should be much easier now that it can be done on a bench, using a drill press and a vice to hold the lock, or at least a vice to hold the lock & a hand drill. There are other ways to remove it, but that is the most obvious. Also the last pic shows where you can find your Key Code sticker if you need to order a factory key. I blacked out my last 2 digits, because I am cool :-)
  5. I'm parting out a car with a 2 year old door seal in very good condition I want to save. I used the 3M black door seal glue on installation. Any tips on how to remove the seal without tearing it ? The glue tends to rip parts of the seal, and it's hard to get a tool under the seal to cut the glue without cutting or tearing the seal.
  6. " Everything looked good from the outside, but the wire was toast on the inside. I removed about two inches from the end of the wire and spliced/soldered in a new piece and a new ring connector. Problem solved. HTH John" This ^^^^^ It also applies to the 3 wires that plug into the back of the alt & also plug into the regulator. Visually may look OK, but can have corrosion or stranded wires breaking under the insulation right behind the terminal. Also make sure the 3 female terminals inside the plug that plug into the back of the alternator are tight. You can wiggle one out & replace just one, if need be. New terminals are the .250 inch variety sold at local hardware stores. The alternator puts out zero without a solid working connection to the regulator.
  7. Thin flat blade screwdriver (or two) to pry under the thin sheetmetal sleeve that covers the front part. Then push it forward or backward to slide it off to reveal the pins. Then push one of the pins out. May need a small drift punch or small L shaped allen wrench to tap a pin out or one may almost fall out. One is vertical, the other is horizontal. Remove the frontmost pin to remove the whole thing. At the back end, a small allen head screw has to be removed or loosened, then you push the bigger size pivot pin at the back out to either side, one side may have more space. If you have this early style shift rod, consider getting the later style at some point, if you want to eliminate some shifter slop. You'll need a new shift lever too. But if you are trying to improve shifter slop, buy a new shift rod joint and pin at the front when you convert to the newer shift rod, used ones always have wear. If you keep the old setup, replace those 2 plastic top hat looking washer bits at the back if they are worn or loose.
  8. Thanks to all who replied. I forgot I do have a cheapo dial indicator from H freight. I have a few M10's on the back porch, couple have the head pulled, so I may try to do the measurement myself.
  9. I have a set to sell, 12/74 mfr date on car mine were removed from. These are the 2 rubber hoses with fittings to attach to radiator & transmission. One is about 5 foot long, other is about 6 foot long. RealOEM shows for a 76 car: 17221115878 return pipe 9/75 to 7/76. 17221115879 oil pipe 9/75 to 7/76. for a 74 car: 17221114388 hose 5/69 to 10/75 17221114389 hose 5/69 to 10/75 What is the difference, can these late hoses be used on an early car ? Thanks
  10. I have a set from an auto I converted couple years ago. They are still very flexable & in good shape. Call me at four oh five 942 fifty seven sixty six about 12 to 5 CST. I'll take pics tonite & can email pics tomorrow.
  11. OK, I have a regrind cam with unknown specs, is there anyway for me to measure duration & lift at home ? All I have is cheap digital calipers. Could a machine shop do this ? All I can remember & this was from 20 years ago, I was told it was a copy of BMW 300 degree sport cam or 1800 tisa cam, I can't remember what they said. Are these 2 cams different ? He said something about taking a little off the backside, and I think that had to do with making a better idle. They were somewhat vague about it, not sure why. It was a local shop that copied a cam they took to them. It did have a slight lope at idle, pulled like stink over 4K rpm, still had decent low end. I think it’s in the 290 to 300 range, not sure & have a metric mechanic cam I bought used on this forum a while back, and another cam that came with a project car. Would be nice to figure out differences in specs between them. Also, the duration spec on american cams is measured differently than the BMW spec. duration at .050 or something for V8 pushrod engines ? vs what for BMW ?
  12. 20 or so years ago when I was younger & dumber, I had a 292 cam & 32/36, compression was lower with flat tops, but the block had been decked once & the head had been skimmed twice. I was trying to tune the carb mixture & tweak the timing to get the max power out of it over 4K & not really having a clue of how to do it. Ended up burning a hole in an exhaust valve. Only good part was the local BMW independent who sold me the cam & installed it in the head, replaced the burned valve at no charge, and said, "you ran it to lean" So my only advice, invest in a wideband 02 setup, then invest in some jets so you have a better chance of tuning it, without running so lean that you burn a valve. Then later on if you get Dual 40's or a 38/38, you will be able to tweek the carb tuning again with the wideband 02.
  13. Yea, try it & let us know. Someone on here posted about a ford or chevy truck heater valve from a 70's or 80's model long ago. I always thought I'd take a stock 2002 heater valve to the parts store & hope I could get someone to find something similar. Making a small bracket to bolt a non standard valve in place would be only work involved, as long as the hose's fit. May also have to drill the hole in the lever to locate the cable in a different spot to make the valve fully close & open.
  14. I looked on Real OEM & couldn't figure out which trim piece was the one between the tail lights on early cars. I don't need it, I have one to sell to someone local, but wanted to check & see if they are NLA. Part # for that part would be nice too. Edit: OK, think I found it, but is it NLA or on backorder ? Part # 51131803904 Thanks
  15. I've done this a few times & broke at least one, before I figured out a way that works for me. What I do is leave the plastic alone. You need to remove the old fan blade without breaking the plastic, and try not to bend a blade, so to keep it balanced. What always worked for me, was grab 2 short pieces of angle iron. The angle iron only need be 5/8" or so. You can buy this in short lengths at H depot. Place the 2 angle iron pieces under the plastic, so they extend beyond both sides of the fan blade. You need a solid support on both sides of the angle iron. Then take a drift punch, just smaller than the motor shaft, tap down with a small hammer on the motor shaft, and drive it down and out of the plastic. To reinstall it, use a small socket, or something to tap the plastic part down onto the new motor shaft. Make sure the fan height is right. Test your heater blower at full speed before installing in the car. The fan blade can be very close, & seem OK spinning by hand. Then when you run it full speed, it flexes and pulls up a bit & rubs the heater case, or the flap, or whatever it hits.
  16. I had one from a parts car, but after looking, it must have been tossed. All I have now is a 320i late ex manifold, looks similar, but different part #'s according to realoem. Sorry.
  17. I have one from a 85 318i. I can post pics later tonite when I get home.
  18. Now that I've thought about it, I am pretty sure this worked for me one time, previous 2 or 3 times I would drill out the pin. If you drive the pin too far, it will damage the ignition. Then once the ignition comes out, the pin pulls out easy from the ignition, ready to be driven back in with the replacement ignition. You need a tiny punch, light hammer to punch it in. If the ignition lock you are removing is bad, nothing to loose. Look inside the sleeve of the one just removed and see if there is a slot or groove where the pin hole is that goes up to the top. If there is, that is what it is there for. The pin fits that slot as you turn the ignition and pull it up. I think the ignition lock turns 10 or 20 degrees for the pin to pull up with it.
  19. I've done this a few times & messed up like that with a broken drill bit before too. Forget a new roll pin for the 1/4" hole. Get a small self tapping or sheet metal screw that is tapered to a small tip. Screw that into the bigger hole & it will hold the ignition just fine, and be easier to remove should you need to change the ignition again. And while we are talking ignition switch. Am I wrong in remembering you can actually tap the roll pin in about 1/8" or so & it some how releases the ignition ? Seems like I did drill a couple out & had my local BMW independent shop guy tell me that & I think I did it once.
  20. If killerkiko doesn't take that, hit my email button, I'm interested.
  21. Last 2 bits of Clardy AC I have. Faceplate has radio opening enlarged for DIN size radio, missing 1 veritcal slat on left. $ 30 for faceplate shipped. Evap housing: No blower motor, 1 mounting tab on top broken/missing at corner. It was working in car it was removed from., so coil and expansion valve, controls, blower resistors, all good. $$$ make offer. location oklahoma city, use email button to contact me.
  22. I don't have a tii, but do have both an adapter plate for york to sanden, and I have an original sanden type bracket. If you can't/don't notch it or figure a way to make it work, I'd be open to trading either of mine, if interested.
  23. I have a techedge 2Y kit and LD02 display. I used it on carbed 2002 for a year or so, then put it on my 528e for a year, getting ready to move it to a 318is. I like it, but it's a kit, you have to solder to put it together. It has narrow band simulated output besides the full differential wideband output. Have had no issues with it, seems well designed. Has other inputs to record exhaust temps, etc.. 0-5v datalogging. They have many other models, Some are available prebuilt. wb02.com
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