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DanOKC

Solex
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Everything posted by DanOKC

  1. At least you don't have low IQ neighbors cooking meth at nite in their hidden basement & venting fumes out there chimney & sewer system like my neighbors here In Oklahoma City. I can't do much when the local officials get paid to look the other way, except to move away. That said, Here are my ideas, constructive stuff he 'could do' if he can be persuaded to. My folks had a pool & I got to keep up the equipment. After that pump runs 24/7 for a month or two, his electric bill will go up 20 bucks or more. He may change his mind after that. We had a timer, we also had to replace a pump or two. Last one we got was 2 speed. Ran it on low at nite when we did run it overnite, or when pool use was low. Some brands make less noise. A box could be built around the pump & used to muffle the noise. I did that with my cheap oiless air compressor on my back porch, since it sits 15 feet from a neighbors window & even I hate the sound of it. It would need some opening for air flow, but would still help. On the sub idea. I'm ROFL on that. DId the exact same thing to my neighbor at my work. My little repair shop is next door to a convenience store, & the owners kids work there. One drives a honda with a car alarm that goes off about 50 times a day. I do pro audio repair only. So powered sub woofers are always in my shop. One day, I thought lets trigger his car alarm with the LF waves from the sub. Worked great. from about 45 feet away, I made his alarm go off over & over again until he turned it off. I was ROFL for days. Next plan is to finish my cell jammer, tune it for his car alarms RF range & kill his ability to turn it off remotely. Then get another sub aimed at his car & test my jammer. Don't bother sweeping, just play some rap or Mexican music with a heavy beat. That will be more of an annoyance. Worst case, if nothing else, new double pain windows help some for old house to insulate noise. Also call a pool company or two & ask them for ideas to suggest to the neighbor. Rubber mat under pump may help a little too. Two speed pumps only have a simple toggle switch, you could put a $ 20 solid state relay or two in it's place, have the timer trigger the relay, to make it switch to low at nite. Way quieter on low speed. But the sub woofer would be last resort if the local officials can't help. Oh yea, does the neighbor have car alarm that is set to sensitive ? Aim the sub at that ! Good luck.
  2. I'm looking at a replacement for my E28 after some serious hail damage at my house in May. I'm seeing lots of E39's around $4K to $5K & am trying to keep in a 6 cyl, don't need a go fast car, so the V8's are out. I'd like a 6Cyl 530, but they are still around 10K, about twice my used car budget for now. So I'm wondering if I get an auto 528 with about 200K on the clock, what's the chances of the auto transmission going bad before 300K ? I know I can get auto tranny's at the salvage yard, but I've heard they are year specific for those cars, not sure if that's 100% correct. I might hold out for a 5 speed, but the 5 speed E39 528's are harder to find. thanks
  3. Agree with comment above, way to pricey. I bought new sanden & parallel flow condensor, new lines with fittings made by local Auto air place. It was probably about 650 or so. I already had the center console. & compressor bracket, but I bought an adapter bracket for the Sanden. You can buy a good used center console for $ 100 or so, piecing the other stuff together is not hard. The AC shop guys know what fittings you need for the lines. Fan up front is optional, but definitely helps, especially in stop/go traffic.
  4. WTB good used windsheild near Oklahoma City
  5. I had this happen one time also, I had spacers & 320 LSD diff. Mine popped out at 4 way stop, in neighborhood close to work, no damage, no lost bolts or spacer, happened on diff side. I think I put loctite on them once I got home.
  6. Knoxville is about 20 miles SW of Frederick MD. I paid 6 weeks ago as of 4-14 Just escalated it to a claim, Thanks to all.
  7. How do I escalate to claim, I thought they give the other party 30 days to respond before that happens ?
  8. 3 options: 1. Cheap & Easy, 2. Pricey, or 3. Cheap if you find a good deal. 1. Drill it & put a small screw through with nut on other side. Go with #8 size screw, #6 I tried, lasted few months till heavy rain, then snapped, upgraded to # 8, no problems since. 2. Go to realOEM.com, look at the parts, the spindle is available, can't buy just the knurled part that presses on the spindle, have to get the whole spindle. 3. Buy another used wiper mech complete & swap it out.
  9. OK, it's off topic, as in not this forum, but it's 2002 related, as I was trying to buy a 325is throttle body & TPS for my 2002 megasquirt conversion, besides M42 parts. Parts have not been delivered. I filed a complaint on paypal, waiting for them to escalate it to a claim. What else can you do when someone doesn't respond to PM's on a board, or emails using paypal address or answer the phone ? I'm out $75, another member is out $100. This individual owns or has owned several BMW's, 2002, M3, 325, sounds like the typical BMW nut car guy, has hundreds of posts, then all of a sudden, disappears, doesn't deliver the goods. He's in Knoxville Maryland, I'm in Oklahoma City.
  10. Replaced worn out rubber alternator bushings in my 528e, & in doing so, inadverently fixed my wideband that was having problems, intermittantly reading rich when car was not running rich. Only above 2K RPM, but only while going down the road. Still trying to figure out why. Maybe alternator at 10 degrees tilt forward was causing noise on ground or 12V ? not sure, pleased though, it's nice to get a 'free fix'.
  11. Since your new to 02's, & just R&R'd the head, you likely removed the black plate that bolts to the firewall. Sometimes when reinstalling it, if it's moved a little bit, can make it bind, so loosen the 2 bolts, try moving it, it has some slop/adjustment there. Also common, the white nylon bushing under your pedal, on the rod the pedal pushes, may be missing or worn. Common fix is to rotate it 30 degrees or so to unworn spot. Also dab of grease here helps. Also WD-40 the other spots under the hood, esp the little bushing inside the black plate on the firewall. And one more spot less common under the car, where the rod comes through the pedal box, it can bind there. Need to clean/lube that area. HTH
  12. Been a long time ago, but if I remember right, there is a part # for a Mercedes rivet that you can get to fix that without using a bolt.
  13. The recommended interval for valve adjustment is every 10K miles, so how many have you driven in the last 3 years ? Yes the 2 barrel solex uses a small round box to pull open the secondary via linkage. It is a vacuum diaphragm and over time, they can get pinholes and/or leak, causing you to effectively have a 1 barrel carb. Yes the weber is mechanical secondary, and no to retrofitting to the solex with weber parts. Many have ditched their solex when this part goes bad because you can get a used weber for less than 90 bucks. If you remove the air cleaner cover, idling on the driveway, reach over & push the throttle down all the way, the carb should open secondary right as the motor gets to about 2500 to 3500 RPM, just from vacuum. There are 2 screws on back of vac box that can come loose & cause it to not work also. Look at top corner of carb nearest driver door, round thing there, it says "solex" on the top, that is the secondary vacuum box, has a rod with a spring on it coming out the bottom. It pulls the rod up & that opens the secondary. You said you didn't replace the cap, but you did not say if you installed new points. Many folks screw up on this the first time. .016 gap & timing via timing light is the norm. New points, condensor, rotor & cap are standard tune up parts. Points at the bare minimum.
  14. Did you replace the points or just set timing & did you set it with timing light or ? Barely accel, for a stock 2 barrel solex, sounds like typical vaccum box is not working. 90 bucks for a new vac advance box. This part opens your secondary barrel. Should be able to check it just by flooring the throttle, watch the secondary barrel, if it does not open, you can only rev to about 3500-4000. Or it will open part way & go above that a little. Running warm, Where is the needle on the temp guage ? if you just bought this car & it hasn't been sorted out, you may have cooling issues besides tune issues. Search on here & you'll find plenty of answers to running hot & solutions. Excessive engine movement at idle is likely motor mounts, possibly tranny mount is also to blame. Also consider checking valve clearance's if you don't know when it's been done last.
  15. Yes, and no, What problem are you having with it ? I bought one from same ebay seller, (grand rebuilders Van Nuys) it started my car, but it made a grinding noise after the initial cranking of the motor. I thought maybe my old ignition switch is sticking, so I lubed the switch so as I released the key, it would snap back quicker. That made the problem happen a little less often, but it would still do it. The thing cranks so fast that I could almost flick the ignition switch as fast as possible, hoping it would snap back to run position & not grind. Sometimes it wouldn't grind, but not consistently. So I asked them for refund or replacement. I got a replacement, but have not bothered to install it, that was 9 months ago. Between working long hours & other projects, it has been low on my priority list to try the replacement starter. I think the ring gear on my flywheel is OK, but I wonder if there is an issue with different models of the M3 starter & different ring gears. I was more interested in the weight savings, than I was the torque of the starter, plus all the cool kids are doing it :-)
  16. I have an M42 head that I'm taking to machine shop for valve job, it had 8 bent intake valves, came that way when I bought it. I also have an M10 head that will go to the same shop later this year for valve job also, so this question pertains to both M10 & M42 heads. Machine shop says if it's for stock application, 3 angle valve job is good enough. When I asked about 5 angle valve job, they said, if it's for performance, yea, they can do something more (than 3 angle). I know it's more $$$ for more angles to cut, but what is the real benefit ? When is it needed ? This M42 is stock, the M10 might be higher compression than stock, but no more than 9.5 to one, or maybe low compression turbo build.
  17. Every business that gets bashed on this forum is a small biz with less than 50 employees, or maybe less than even 5. Sh*t happens, as we all know, and it happens in small business's and big business's, especially service & parts related business's. I have part order screw ups on a regular basis in my operations of small electronics repair biz & I have finally accepted, it's normal. Human beings aren't perfect. They screw up my parts orders, they send me the wrong part, or parts get back ordered that I was told were in stock, or the part gets damaged in shipping, or UPS looses the package or ships it to the wrong place. It's normal operations for some screw ups to happen when humans are involved. So if I have a problem with IE, or any BMW parts supplier, I won't mention it on this forum. I don't think it will make a difference in the long run. They will still have the same employee's, the same overload, whatever the cause of the affect is, it will still be there, complaining on here may help someone vent, maybe the feedback will happen, but I doubt it. I think it's up to the consumer to try & get the business that screwed up to make good on the screw up, & if they make good, that's a better measure of their customer service, than the fact that they screwed up. Every BMW parts vendor I've dealt with, I've had at least one problem with, but in every case except one, they made good & corrected the problem. I would still do biz with the one that didn't make good, because I think they have excellent knowledge & have always been helpful. One minor problem isn't enough to turn me away. Now if I get a bacon cheese at Wendy's & I get home to find they gave me just a regular single with no bacon, then I'll be on here yelling ! Especially if the fries are cold !
  18. You need a DVM set to measure ohms, figure out which 3 wires are the pot, which are the switch, you only need the pot wires. Measure for resistance between 2 wires at a time, when you find that, rotate the TPS & the resistance should change. It should go from near zero at closed to max value at open. Now you have found 2 of the 3 pot wires, one of those 2 is the wiper, find the other wire by looking for the same result, except backwards reading, it will go from max at closed to near zero at open, now you have found the 3rd wire. look at the wiring diagram on megamanual & you will see the wiper of the pot goes to pin 20, the other 2, one hooks up to pin 26 (5Volts), the other to ground, this gives you a variable voltage on the wiper from approx 0 to approx 5 volts as you apply throttle. Your Wideband has a 0 to 5 volt output. Measure it with DVM, make sure the voltage correlates to the wideband's display readout, if you have one. You could test the MS wideband input using another pot, wired like the TPS, 5V on one end, ground on the other, wiper to MS wideband input pin, it should be able to track the voltage as you sweep the pot. Any 10K, 50K, 100K, or 500K pot would do fine. If the 02 readout is OK with a simple pot, but not with the wideband, you may have a ground loop problem or else your widebands output has problems.
  19. Non electric Idle valve ? Never heard of that. My 2 barrell solex has the idle cut of solenoid on the pass side. Supposed to help keep the car from dieseling when shut off is what i always understood. If you found it had no spark in this no start mode, I'd put a voltmeter on + terminal of coil with key in on position, and then check it while cranking. Should be at least 8 volts or more when cranking, closer to 12 in on position.
  20. Try to determine if it's fuel system or ignition system. have a spare spark plug ready & pull a plug wire & check for spark when it won't start. Same for the carb, have a can of starting fluid & put a blast down the carb, if it starts & dies on the starting fluid, your carb idle solenoid may be it. Also check/clean fuses, could be related to dirty fuse holder contacts.
  21. 02for2, Thanks, link to that replacement vac advance is what I was looking for. I figured out later last nite that RealOEM has my part listed late 74 to 76, but the pic only shows 1 style, which doesn't look like a vac/retard type. CD, Thanks, I know its has retard also, my bad on describing it. Pat, Thanks, it's not 100% original under the hood, no dashpot & the vac relays/controls are not there also, I'm sure I have multiples of all those parts in the attic from previous cars, but I have megasquirt plans in the works, so no desire to put it back to 100% original. What you suggest about vac advance only is what I would do, except I have 2 mech adv dist on hand & will just use one of those until the megasquirt ignition goes on.
  22. Maybe I should have said it's not a tii, but a stock 75 w/solex, and I posted a few posts below about my vac advance dist has a vac leak, so I'm looking at the easier options of using what I have on hand to replace it, & it's those two (002 & 008) distributors. I have been slowly working up to getting a megasquirt setup installed to run ignition, so if I run either of those two dist's for a short while, I'll do OK. Just didn't know if one or the other would be better suited for a stock motor with stock carb etc... Thanks for the replys !
  23. The 4 speed tranny, was it rebuilt since it came from Metric Mechanic ? Or is it a Metric Mechanic rebuilt tranny ? How many miles or years use since rebuild & does it shift without grinding ?
  24. I have two mech advance distributors, one I bought new & have used it for a while on other cars , the other came with another car I bought with a locked up motor, it is a 008. So as I have heard, the 008 is the "real" original tii mech advance version. The 002 i bought new about 18 years ago, was told the original 008 was no longer made and this is the replacement for it. So how much difference is there between these two with regards to advance curve ? I have heard the original 008 was better, any truth to that ? Full #'s on them: 231151008 0231188002 JFD4
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