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DanOKC

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Everything posted by DanOKC

  1. Somebody call him & let him know it's not a 63 model, or else he made a big typo. http://tulsa.craigslist.org/cto/2796801314.html
  2. OK, pics, I got it moved today, this is one of those been sitting for 6 years projects, so plenty of dust & oxidation. I have a good hood to replace the rusty bondo job one it has. It also has some rocker rust & some floor rust by the gas pedal. On the plus side, seats in very good condition, and it comes with plenty of extra bits. Probably be a year before I get it on the road.
  3. Last time I did this, I first removed 2 of the 4 bolts holding the diff to the subframe, with the other 2 just loose & made note of the location of the diff to the subframe, since those are oval holes in the subframe. Then I used a large screwdriver or 2 & was able to pry it forward a tiny bit at a time.. And I also had to put a jack under the subframe as it goes off level & tilts as you loosen the bolts. Make sure the parking break is off so the rear wheels are free to turn if you do this with halfshafts attached.
  4. Try your local hobby shop that sells model airplane kits. Many of them carry a type of super glue that comes in different viscosity's, like thick, thin and medium, and it won't cure until you spray it with an accelerant. Might cost about 8 or 10 bucks for a small bottle of glue & accelerant. Better than typical runny superglue, plus it's black color glue, so won't show up as much on black plastic.
  5. The same one has been posted here before has cracked oil pan now it's $995. I changed M20 oil pan on my E28 right after I got it, wasn't too bad of a job. As easy or easier than an M10 oil pan swap on a 2002 I'd say. http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/cto/2773082028.html
  6. OK, I rarely see any pre- 92 BMW’s around OKC, except for the occasional E30 or E28 diesel or ETA. Here it is day one after I buy another 02, I'm driving home & see an orange 2002 front grill on backend of a trailer on I44 northbound just about 36th street. As I got up even with them, I kept going north of 39th & the truck & trailer exited off east bound on I44, I could see the back of the car & it’s a roundie with no tag.
  7. It will be a couple weeks before I get it moved & get pics, It was almost dusk when I looked at it last nite & had to use a flashlight, plus my cell phone has no flash, so I didn't get any pics. I emailed the guy when it first appeared about a week ago & just got a call from him last nite. It's been sitting awhile so it has some oxidation. Big rust spot on the top of the car, & the hood has crappy bondo job in middle. Has some rocker rust, & little front valance rust, but not to bad. Rest of body is very straight. Nice looking 2 tone matching reupholstered front & back seats. Perfect frame rails.
  8. The $800 dollar one is gone, I just got it. I needed a mint green car, I've had amazon green & currently have a jade green, almost same color as amazon green, so minty fresh mint it is for next spring. It's going to hibernate through winter. I've never seen that tii before, it's out of my price range, and the $2500 one, I talked to the guy months ago & he is a paint & body guy, own's a body shop. You'd think he'd do something about the way the car looks.
  9. Heres how I always do this I use 2 pieces of small angle iron or some other small flat iron & run them under the fan blade & have one end either on top of or held in a bench vise, then something same height on other end of the metal. Then just hold the fan blade steady & use the punch & hammer to tap the shaft down through the plastic center of the fan blade.
  10. Of the two small terminals, don't connect to the top one. It will have 12 V on it while cranking, but any other time it's a low resistance path to ground.
  11. +1 on Black silicone, just make sure to smooth it with your finger for a flat surface.
  12. My first 02 was crashed into about 8 months after I got it in late in 1979. These pics were right after the crash. June 1980 a drunk driver hit me & it was gone, at about 45K miles, I was second owner at 17, Lucky I guess. Me & my only passenger walked away. The gas tank only had about 1 or 2 gallons & there was a few drips below it on the roadway. Fireman told me I was lucky, they usualy explode when they are near empty. Car body absorbed impact pretty good, all the way up to the front seats, the seat rails were no longer parallel after the wreck, but pushed apart at the back. Seats would no longer slide back & forth. Guy that hit me was driving that early body style monte carlo with the long hood & chrome front bumper & was estimated at 60 to 70 mph & we were stopped. My second 02 lasted about 18 years, got tagged by a kid on pain killers who pulled out into my lane, I didn't have a clear lane to swerve to avoid him. I think they are safer than some cars of the same era because of the ability to absorb impact, at least front & back. Obviously newer cars with airbags should be safer. Safer yet, sit in your driveway & make that vroom sound.
  13. I'm just now seeing this 2 days later on sunday, I have a few good alternators if you are still stuck. UPS Ground would get it there overnite from OKC. Let me know.
  14. I think the drain tubes come out right on top of the transmission, near both sides, so you may not be able to see them from underneath easily if at all. Edit: OK, my bad, that was frigiking I think has 2 drain tubes. I took a pic of a behr from a shell on my drive that is getting ready to go to storage. It had the side panels off & the drivetrain out. Couldn't get a good pic from below, but about a foot away from the opening for the shift lever is my guess. Here is a pic from passenger side. That hose clamp is where the tube comes out. Looks like on mine it makes a sharp bend & that could be what is happening to make it clog up on yours, the hose is pinched by a sharp bend. That is the back of the radio & the antenna wire. to the left. Sorry for the lack of a better pic, It's a cell phone pic w/LED trouble light.
  15. 29 Days at 100 or hotter here in Oklahoma, were trying to break a record, 22 more days to go. Welcome to the heat dome. I don't own a roundie now, did for my 1st car though. But I have soldered on square tail light car's tail light socket once. I had bent it to retension it so many times, it wasn't working anymore. I soldered copper or brass strip same width as what was there onto the existing strip. This was the strip that contacts the tip of the bulb. Try a hobby shop for thin strips of metal, & if you try this sand the old metal clean before you solder. Also cool down the whole fixture before you solder, put it in the fridge. That way the plastic won't be as likely to melt if you can't solder quickly.
  16. They came on this 91 318is "fixer" I just bought. Now that it runs, I want to sell these wheels & put some 14" weaves on there. They are 16" dual bolt pattern 4 x 100 & I forgot to bring home my dig caliper, but think the other size is 4 x 114.3, Honda size. They are obviously copy of 3 piece wheel w/fake bolts, but I have no idea what brand or style. Want to put on local craigslist to sell. thanks !
  17. Not Mine, NA, etc... found on Tulsa Craigslist http://tulsa.craigslist.org/cto/2504486781.html
  18. You guys are ahead of me, I built my MS2 almost 2 years ago, & still haven’t installed it, but did the mod for sequential, & have plans to install it at some point. I do have a 60-2 wheel on the crank pulley & it's installed w/sensor, but still have to do my cam sensor. I’m all for drilling front cover, I have a few extras in case I mess up the 1st time, but the sensor I have is similar to the one pictured. It has that little O ring, so it can’t leak, right :-) Had thought of bolt on approach to the cam sprocket & maybe just weld a small bolt on top of 1 of the cam sprocket bolts, & trim it so it comes close enough to the VR sensor for a strong signal. It won’t be a balance issue, right ? This is just a street car, not a race motor. I also kept thinking the fuel pump rod would be perfect, no worries of oil leak, no drilling front cover. You need to use VR sensor instead of hall effect, since it is is not a clean on/off pulse like a tooth would be, but as mentioned it is an eccentric, gradual rise & drop. The VR circuit will spit out a pulse from that, it may be clean enough to use as is. If I remember right from the MS2 forums I asked a while back & MS is only looking for the leading edge from the cam sensor, so a long pulse (duty cycle) may not be a problem. IOW, that pulse can start before # 1 fires & not end till after # 2 fires. You need to build another LM1815 circuit for MS2 for the cam sensor. I squeezed one into the proto area, but now you can buy a PC board for cheap that lets you build 2 of those circuits. If a long pulse is a problem, my only other idea was to make a rocker arm type of pivoting lever driven off the fuel pump rod, that in effect ‘shortens” the distance it travels each time around, making a ‘shorter’ pulse, possibly useable with a hall effect. Don’t forget a spring would be needed to keep the fuel pump rod in place. The other thing is MS expects that pulse right before cyl 1 fires, so check on the fuel pump lobe & see where its at, in relation to cyl 1 firing/TDC. Then you realize you almost have to have a lever or some other mechanism to “tune” where the lobe happens. Or you could build a one shot circuit to stretch the pulse also, but then it is no longer a simple mechanical approach.
  19. Do a search for M3 starter & you''ll find this has been covered before. Don't use that top terminal. It is at ground potential at any time other than cranking. You could probably run a diode off of that terminal to power the coil during cranking, at least it wouldn't pull the current to ground after cranking stopped.
  20. Yea, feedback on the Yokohama's would be good. The Yoko AVS ES100 205/60 is what I'm looking at. I have those on my 2002 beater for last 5 years & have been happy with them for grip, how they wear & how long they last. I meant to type 195/65 vs 205/60, stock vs next width up. I kinda bought this car for better MPG, but don't think going to 205 width would make MPG go down by more than a few percent.
  21. Probably have a warped head, cracked head, and/or blown headgasket. You can still have compression with any of these 3 results, depending on how bad it is. I'd put fresh oil & filter & fresh coolant in & start it again. But you need to make sure you have good spark on 1 & 3 first, and make sure the plugs are clean & not fouled. New plugs are cheap. If you have good spark on 1 & 3, and it still runs rough, then you can do some more troubleshooting, just watch the temp guage & don't let it overheat. Could have leaking ex manifold gasket for the air sound you hear, but that wouldn't make it run rough. I'd run it for 5 minutes, pull the plugs & look at them, also check the oil & coolant. also once the motor is warmed up ( temp guage in the middle, above the blue), the T-stat opens & if the head gasket is leaking, it could put pressure into the cooling system. You can remove the radiator cap & see if you have exhaust gas pressure coming from it, you will know if you do when you rev the motor. You can have a warped head that seals better once it cools down too, but leaks bad once the motor is warm.
  22. I picked up another 91 318is, this time w/out bent valves :-0 It needs a few other issues addressed, one is the ugly 16" rims on it. I have another set of 14" basketweaves to put on there, but when tire shopping online, only have 2 tires listed at tirerack in 195/65 R14. If I go to 205/60 R14, I can get a better selection of performance tires. Is this a good size or should I be looking for another size or another place to find 195/65 14 ? I guess like 13's, 14's are getting hard to find in as many offerings.
  23. Points ? are they pitted ? Back when I was a newb, all my stranded 2002 episodes ended up in my brother showing up & finding out my points were worn or pitted. I started keeping sand paper in car tool box & lightly sanding them would restore operation.
  24. They must have bought it to flip it. It's been on Tulsa craigslist for a while before, it's from Arkansas if I remember right and it was listed for less $$. Andy mentioned this one a while back. He may know about it. I think it's really an M10 based 318, but I could be wrong.
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