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dtharp113

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Everything posted by dtharp113

  1. Cleaning out the closets and stumbled across 4 BMW 2002 Hot Wheels die cast cars (2 are duplicates). One is from the FAQ (has the FAQ logo on the car), and the other flies Blunt's logo, The other 3 are standard issue. $3.00 each (+ $3 postage) - all of them for $12.00 (+$5 postage). I'm in Northern VA so a local pickup is fine. Venmo/ PayPal. Contact me at dtharp113@yahoo.com
  2. FOR Sale: 1974 BMW 2002, Polaris. Daily driver for the past 8 years – certainly not a concours competitor but has been maintained and cared for. Interior needs work (see below – I have all missing trim pieces) – rear seat has been deleted (cover was too far gone to attempt to save). Much of the work needed is cosmetic – there is a transmission issue that should be addressed sooner rather than later (see below) The good: 1. Solid body everywhere 2. New tie rods, bushings, and control arm. Stainless Ireland exhaust; re-cored radiator and new thermostat, water pump, coil and Ireland distributor installed 3. 5 spd transmission w/ limited slip diff and oversized front brakes. Upgraded short throw shift kit 4. sound deadening throughout interior of car 5. working sunroof, crack free dash 6. current VA safety inspection 7. Rear seal, guibo refreshed. Stainless steel brake lines installed Needs additional work: 1. Pilot bearing in transmission may need replacing 2. Front seats need to be covered or reupholstered; interior trim needs to be installed (I have these in a box) 3. Struts and shocks could/should be replaced ? Not really sure but I have replacements 4. Driving lights need to be wired in 5. Bumpers need to be bolted in and covers and corners need to be reinstalled (I have those) 6. Fan motor needs to be adjusted so it doesn’t rattle when operating 7. Dash underpanels need to be installed (I have those) 8. Should replace sunroof seals (I have those) 9. Fender reflectors need to be reinstalled (have those) II'm sure there are some other things that I've missed and I'm sure that forum members in the DMV will chime in. In any case, you can reach me at bmw20024sale@yahoo.com or thru this forum or via text. Pics are sitting in Dropbox - let me know and I'll send you the link.
  3. Right, so let me see if I'm understanding this (there's a reason why I was a liberal arts major and not an engineer…) the higher the Celsius rating on the thermostat, the higher the water temp needs to be open said t-stat, which means the engine runs warmer (than if one used a lower C rated t-stat), which means in hotter areas one would use a 71 and in colder areas of the country an 80. Correct? Part 2 is my puzzlement over the 30° delta between the radiator hoses and the engine block and why my water temp is not getting over 150°. Could the lower water temp be a result of the thermostat
  4. I was using an IR thermometer to check the hose/thermostat housing temps, and the stock temp gauge hasn't worked in a quite a while (that's why I have a VDO gauge installed). So, from what i can gather from the replies, it sounds like I have the wrong temp thermostat installed.
  5. Am vexed by my cooling system: I replaced the t-stat in my '74 (the new stat is a 75). Since replacing, my temp gauge has been showing low (150's) temp, my oil pressure has been on the high (approx 30 while idling/ 50+ while driving in 5th gear). This is a change from my original numbers of 180°/ 30lbs. Some additional data (because I know someone will ask…): 3min after start: top hose=70°; tstat housing = 79°; lower rad hose=68°; oil press = 70 15 min idle: top hose 148°; tstat housing 122°; lower hose 109°; oil press 30 (at idle) after 20 min drive: top hose 151°; tstat housing 132°; lower hose 128°; oil press during drive approx 50lb. Engine block temp was measured at 185° I'm confident that the system has been burped, and I have good heat from the heater core. I'm feeling that these numbers are too low/high and a search of the FAQ confirmed this. My question is: should i swap out the current thermostat for a different temp (and if so, do I go higher (to 85) or lower (71°)? I've not found a good explanation of what temp thermostat one should run with in the FAQs. I'm not sure if another possibility would be a bad temp sensor/sender. If so, how would one test for that? Thanks,
  6. I'll check the filter tomorrow. I did pull the valve cover - didn't see much in the way of any spray from the oil bar (cover looked clean).
  7. The only thing that changed is the distributor flange. I got under the hood today, removed the distributor flange and ensured there was nothing obstructing the opening where the oil pressure switch is fed. I next ran a heavy gauge wire into the opening in the engine block (where it lines up with the pressure switch). Wire fed with little trouble and when I retrieved it, the wire was coated with oil. Buttoned everything back up, started the car and still no oil to the switch (I left it open to see if oil would pump out). So I'm stumped as to where I should be looking next. I feel like I can rule out: 1. Pressure sender 2. Blockage in the distributor flange Anyone want to throw out some other places I should be looking? I feel like my other option is to take her somewhere and have a shop go into the engine itself (don't really have the cash for that right now). Suggestions/thoughts/ ideas would be really appreciated! Thanks,
  8. Yeah. No idea. Ran a coat hanger sized wire down the port and in towards the block. Didn't feel any obstruction. Can I pop the valve cover and access it that way? May need to bite the bullet and order a new gasket, rip the flange off and do some exploratory surgery
  9. I am using the double post VDO sender but I marked the post prior to disassembly. Shouldn't I have oil enthusiastically coming up through the hole if there is no oil pressure switch/ sender in place?
  10. Installed the new distributor flange w/ new gasket and a bit of RTV Gasket sealant yesterday. Everything was buttoned up snug, topped off the oil and re-connected the VDO oil pressure sender. Car fired up like a champ and no oil leaks but the pressure isn't registering on the gauge. I've removed the oil pressure sender, leaving a gaping hole in the distributor flange, and started the car. No oil coming up thru. I've also treaded heavy gauge wire into the distributor flange (where the oil sender would mount) and it seems that there's no obstruction. Really hate to remove the flange just to confirm it's not obstructed. Any thoughts or comments? What am I not seeing/thinking of? thanks D Situation resolved. I drained and refilled the oil as well as filled the oil filter before installing. Disconnected the distributor and cranked the engine for several cycles. Once I re-connected the distributor and fired her up, the oil pressure needle hung at 0 for a moment, then shot to 60! Everything appears tight (no noticeable leaks or oil smells). Thanks to all for your input and comments. They were a huge help! D
  11. Operator error. Found a small piece of old gasket that caused the uneven mounting. Serves me right for not doing a dry fit first. I have the O ring washer - can that be reused or do I need a new one? If I need a new one, that'll open another can of whoopass. Thanks, D
  12. That didn't occur to me. I think that's unlikely as I mated the gasket to the flange prior to mounting but I've also learned to never say never. On a related note, looking at the diagram on RealOEM, it appears that there is an O ring on the bolt where the breakage is but really nothing else. Can someone confirm that's the case or am I misreading the diagram. Thanks loads to Grice for the part! D
  13. Followup to my earlier post about leaving well enough alone. Now with pictures! Overview of the distributor flange: Here's a better view (sorry about the orientation) And a closeup:
  14. Oh that would be fantastic! Would like to roll in to my new job in style!
  15. Beautiful weather in the area and, as I'm soon going back to work, thought I'd knock out a couple of low priority issues. First was installing a front sway bar ( thank you very much Clay!). Went in with little cursing. The removal and replacement went w/out hitch. Installed the new gasket, tightened everything down and fired her up. Stared with no trouble and idled nicely. After a moment I noticed a new noise - kind of a slushing, wet sound. Killed the engine and when I checked the engine, saw a good qt of oil flowing from underneath the car. Checked all of the bolts and that's when I discovered one of the ears of the distributor flange had cracked clean off. Guess that was the source of the leak and better to have it happen in the driveway than on the roadway. Still sucks tho. Waiting to see if Steve can get me a new flange.
  16. Pulling out of the driveway this morning (of course in the Mazda..) and saw a 74 (?) Polaris rolling past on Marshall St towards Rt 50. Thought I saw antique plates - maybe NY?
  17. I got my first one at a Walmart in uniontown, PA but haven't seen one since we've moved. Sure there's one around but...
  18. I've an extra white turbo 2002 Hot Wheels car that I'd love to trade for a different 2002 Hot Wheels - color isn't important. Thanks, Dennis [/img]
  19. Images didn't load the first time around: NEW Heater box core - no leaks. $15 + shipping Starter from an E36. Got this a few years ago from someone on the board. No idea what the market value is so I'm going to start with $40 + shipping/ OBO. Windshield gaskets Ft/ Rr. Used but still pliable. $25 + shipping for the pair - no image (they're windshield gaskets...) Generator. came off an M10 car. works. $10 +shipping Everything ships from Falls Church, VA (22042) cheapest possible (unless you tell me otherwise). As always, if you have questions, contact me either through the board or d tharp 113 at gmail. thanks for shopping!
  20. The cabin hardware went away. I still have the ashtray-will have a few more items up this week as well
  21. Parts spoken for and waiting payment: Becker radio Center support bearing Cabin hardware
  22. Cleaning out some misc parts - more will be posted up later. Driveshaft center bearing - SOLD Rear subframe mount - left side. New in bag - $60 + shipping Door handles (no key) keyed alike. Daily driver quality $40 + shipping Misc cabin hardware:SOLD Becker radio - SOLD Alpine 5 disc CD changer - works. $25.00 + shipping Ashtray from a long console car. $30.00 + shipping NEW Heater box core - no leaks. $15 + shipping NEW - Starter from an E36. Got this a few years ago from someone on the board. No idea what the market value is so I'm going to start with $40 + shipping/ OBO. NEW - Windshield gaskets Ft/ Rr. Used but still pliable. $25 + shipping for the pair Everything ships from 22042 (Falls Church, VA). Local pickup is encouraged. Shipping is least expensive or buyers choice. Questions - contact me either through the board or directly at dtharp 113 at yahoo thanks for looking Dennis
  23. Here's my contribution to the Construction Zone as a way of saying "thanks" to all that have added their bits of knowledge. My rear seats were in pretty rough shape (and I've replaced the front seats so I no longer had a matching set .. though that wasn't a big deal to me). I also found dimensions for the panels from TonyHavana (in Toronto) - here's the link: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/page,viewtopic/t,325291/highlight,rear+seat+delete/. The link for the pdf is close to the bottom of the page. I roughed out the template using cardboard as the dimensions were a bit different on my car. Here's the starting point (the gray colour is QuietCar soundproofing paint): [/img] The bottom panel using 1/4 plywood. I've thought about going back and replacing it with 1/2 for additional cargo capacity as the 1/4 inch feels a bit flimsy. The top panel The bottom panel fitted. I fastened a piece of 1x2 parallel to the forward edge of the bottom panel so the panel wouldn't slid forward (sorry, don't have a pic of that). Remember to leave a bit of a gap for the wiring harness I used 2 short pieces of 1x2 as attachment points for the upper panel. You'll need to bend open the seat bracket to accommodate. A closer look at the attachment: The upper panel installed using 4 1" wood screws. The lower panel installed (I had some leftover FatMat that I used here) Upper panel carpet installed. I ordered the carpet from Esty and used 3M spray adhesive to glue it on. Esty included a strip of fabric that I used to cover the gap btwn the parcel shelf and upper panel. Lower panel carpet installed. Not a very complicated project and this took all of an afternoon to knock out with minimal cost. This post has been promoted to an article
  24. I'm trying to remember the setup when I installed my dash though I forgot to drop the defrost ducts in prior to installing the dash. Jim Gerock can attest that you can install the ducts w/out fulling removing the dash I'm thinking that, yes you can screw the ducts onto the dash and install everything w/out much trouble
  25. 'preciate the prod to look globally, C.D. Fortunately, all you've mentioned has been addressed: new guibo and center support bearing, IE Stainless exhaust. Only thing that's unsure is the transmission mounts (engine mounts are less than 2yr).
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