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Mikesmalaga72

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  1. Mikesmalaga72
    For proper suspension preload the vehicle should be loaded onto the wheels to avoid prematurely damaging the rubber bushings before final torques . Loosely tighten the suspension nuts, wheels bolted on and vehicle on ground level. Bounce the front end up and down to settle the control arms and tension struts. While the vehicle is at full weight on all 4 wheels preferably w/ apx 150 lbs weight on each front seat and preferably on the drive on lift. Tighten the inner control arm nuts to 108 ft/lbs and tension rod nuts to 43 ft/lbs at both the front of subframe and at the outer control arm/s. Now is a good time to check the torques on steering box and steering linkages. Good luck.
  2. Mikesmalaga72
    Nice John76! I was thinking of doing that...Thanks!
  3. Mikesmalaga72

    Disassembly

    Mikesmalaga72 commented on JQ02's blog entry in Holey diving boards!

    Look around for a hobbyist locally that builds hotrods etc that can talk to metal and knows how to block and lay down some nice paint. Go to some local cruise ins you might find an honest hotshot that would work with you. Paint and materials are horrendously expensive but go for the gusto when its color time. Most painters feel comfortable with PPG system, Glasurit, and Spies Hecker are inordinately higher priced but your call. Try to keep at it, but family and health are priority. My project took me years due to priorities, success through faith and perseverance has helped me immensely.
  4. Mikesmalaga72
    Go ahead just make sure there are no obvious holes inside starting from the deep pitting start saving for a new one I cant believe those things are approaching 200 bucks now.
  5. Mikesmalaga72

    Oh the Wheel Wells!

    Mikesmalaga72 commented on Jesse's blog entry in Jesse

    Prep for color is 90% of the job so block it good!
  6. Mikesmalaga72

    Disassembly

    Mikesmalaga72 commented on JQ02's blog entry in Holey diving boards!

    Keep up the fine work there!
  7. Mikesmalaga72
    Correct those are what you need there.
  8. Mikesmalaga72
    Here is one in Germany unless you find one here... https://www.wallothnesch.com/en/rubber-26-05-01.html Get some other goodies to make it worth your while.
  9. Mikesmalaga72
    Inspect /Spin fuse 11 check if blown and pull fuse block and perhaps look underneath it for corrosion .Caution disconnected battery negative cable before pulling fuse box.
  10. Mikesmalaga72
    I have a regular 2002 unsure if tii has this wire but, look around near the center area of trunk floor for a brown wire that has an eyelet that should have a screw through it giving the sender a chassis ground sometimes slight corrosion could occur. Try to twist the screw back and forth to restore chassis ground. There are several ground points around the car that will enable operation of lights, signals heater etc. Inspect and rotate the bullet fuses etc. pull fuse box carefully and inspect the underside panel for abnormalities unless already done. Someone here in the FAQ I'll quote" 90% of electrical problems are the grounds" It works for me. A lil bit of dielectric grease helps on exposed ground points.
  11. Mikesmalaga72
    Those should be from the BMW dealer, or google the part numbers from other sources sorry bout that!
  12. Mikesmalaga72
    Perhaps this may help, maybe shave a couple down. RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog WWW.REALOEM.COM BMW parts 1502-2002tii 2002turbo Side shaft/wheel bearings
  13. Mikesmalaga72

    Oh the Wheel Wells!

    Mikesmalaga72 commented on Jesse's blog entry in Jesse

    Nice work cleaning up!!
  14. Mikesmalaga72
    The ribbed flange on that lock nut is meant for high vibration resistance such as drivelines or suspensions. I believe a nylock nut would be sufficient for the steering wheel application. For some reason BMW retrofitted the flange style as before they were nyloc.
  15. Mikesmalaga72
    Get a vernier caliper measure diameter across the spindle to find either 12 or 14 mm by 1.5 pitch thread. As long as the initial threads your pic shoes engage lock it down.
  16. Mikesmalaga72
    Dont throw away those correct roundel gas caps or buy a new crappy cap just to get a gasket. I ordered a few and they fit and function very well, Thanks for taking the time to create these!!
  17. Mikesmalaga72
    IMHO.... May I suggest jack stands at the front and rear of the car? The wood is precarious.
  18. Mikesmalaga72
    Bimmer flash!
  19. Mikesmalaga72
    61 13 1 355 210 Plug for wiring 12 pins fits for all models and years of manufacturing you need 1 for 1 car WWW.WALLOTHNESCH.COM Plug for wiring 12 pins fits for all models and years of manufacturing you need 1 for 1 car
  20. Mikesmalaga72
    Yes, you should be able to reuse the castle nut if serviceable and use a new cotter pin. Lock nuts are generally one time use.
  21. Mikesmalaga72
    The green rear defroster glass for the 2002 @ W/N is Dora glass made in Turkey. https://www.wallothnesch.com/en/vehicle-trim-glasses/bmw-1502-2002-turbo/catalog-picture-51-28.html
  22. Mikesmalaga72
    Thanks! So no water jackets to look for then correct?
  23. Mikesmalaga72
    Before installing a fresh head looking for a lil advice on head bolt sealer near water jacket area and where that is. I remember trying to get a head bolt through a head bolt hole that had a real hocker of thread sealer on it out of a Tii 121 head once and it was a biatch. It had some really thick thread sealer on it and I forgot which bolt had the water jacket and which might have needed it if any. Any hints thanks!
  24. Mikesmalaga72
    You may want to replace those rubber bushings in the case front with delrin or polyurethane the rubber gets flimsy rather quickly. Your call tho.
  25. Mikesmalaga72
    Grab 2 screwdrivers or plastic trim tools and gently wobble the fan and pulley off of the keyway and shaft it should come right off perhaps get some penetrating oil first, once you see any wobbling try using your hand to wobble it the rest of the way off. Note: assure the key is still pressed in the slot.
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