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cshaw9

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Everything posted by cshaw9

  1. What: Selling 1974 BMW 2002; manual 4 speed, standard differential. Price: $4000-$8000? Really I have no idea what the market is these days, so really best offer. I mean it's getting sold, and I would prefer to do it on the FAQ and not have to go over to eBay. I wouldn't mind hearing opinions on price range in the comments. Local pickup preferred but not a deal breaker. Time: I'd like to make it happen by early October. If not then it will have to wait until mid November. Photos In a Google album. Ask if you'd like any other views. https://photos.app.goo.gl/DJeT78sqmJYG8vmo9 About the Car I'm the third owner, bought in 2005 in the Bay Area. Daily driver for six months. Cracked cylinder head and did an engine rebuild and other improvements. In storage from 2006.5 to 2008. In 2009 more work. Drove cross country. Since 2009 it's been in my garage in Pittsburgh. Periodically turned over the engine. Last driven outside in 2017. Currently immobile. My friend started a teardown to tackle rust and braking but passed away. Brake system and gas tank removed. Clean title in my name. Still the California title -- I never transferred to PA. Last registered in CA in 2009. Health Body: bad rusting in floor panels (I do have a new passenger side floor panel). Bubbling surface rust on parts of the roof and trunk. Front panel below bumper doesn't look great. Small dent on hood over radiator cap. Otherwise panels look good. Bumpers removed (I have them). Passenger side rear view removed (I have it, though I also have nicer chrome mirrors). Engine and drivetrain: I rebuilt the engine in 2005/2006 and it has probably about 4000 miles on it. See my notes for an itemized list of work. Rebuilt the clutch. Never touched the transmission or differential, no known problems. Replaced various accessories (starter, alternator, voltage regulator). Steering box is still acceptable but the adjustment screw is running out of thread. I do have a good used steering box from 02 Salvage in Hayward back in 2009 with 2 or 3 threads exposed on the adjustment screw. The battery tray is a hot mess and needs to be redone. Fuel and exhaust: fuel tank removed, no known defects. It looks kind of ugly with surface rust (see picture) but I think that's because my friend was powder coating the exterior and wasn't happy with it and stripped it off and didn't get a chance to redo the powder coat. Exhaust pipe from end of exhaust manifold to tailpipe was installed new in 2009. I have what appears to be a new exhaust manifold but for the life of me I can't remember where or when I got that. Weber 32/36 with K&N air filter. I rebuilt the carburetor. Brakes: front calipers and rear drums removed (I have the parts). Brake lines removed and discarded. In my notes I wrote that I replaced the front calipers and brake pads in 2009, but the calipers clearly have a lot of surface rust on them now. Electrical: no work done on this other than new ignition components in 2009. Engine timing seemed to be a bit erratic and low speed and I had some rough idle so the distributor may need some love? Fuel level sensor went through periods where it was noisy -- I never spent time clearing a good ground for it. Wheels and suspension: I think the previous owner redid the rear shocks circa 2004. Tires are low mileage but are also from around 2004. They hold air without issue. The rear sway bar seems to have been removed (I have it). Some very minor cosmetic marks on the wheel rims. Paint: looks like a non OEM color the previous owner painted over the original light blue. Paint flaking away at a few points on the roof, especially close to the windshield. Glass: good clean glass, no cracks. Rear window defroster doesn't seem to work and I never investigated the reason. Passenger side window seems to be binding up and I didn't want to force it. Probably just a case of needing to lubricate to free it up. Interior: carpeting, center console, seats and seat belts are removed (I have all these parts). Some tearing in the driver seat and the top of the rear seat. Passenger seat cushion was reupholstered since the horsehair fell out. Door panels, door handles, and window cranks are all good. Rear speakers and ashtrays. Headliner and sun visors are all fine. HVAC: the heater worked though was sluggish. I haven't investigated. No A/C. Other known problems: * Small oil leak around the back of the engine. I seem to remember this was near the rear exhaust port on the manifold but I don't know. It wasn't a big enough leak to be obvious for the source. * When getting the odometer working again, the speedometer torsional spring lost one rotation, so the reported speed is a bit off. * The horn doesn't work due to a broken slip ring. Known missing parts: I had to scramble to get everything back together after my friend passed away. I __think__ I have everything except for what is listed here, but YMMV. * The three pedals and levers all seem to be missing. * The trunk floor panels. * The windshield washer reservoir. I do seem to have the washer pump and remember that working. Additional Parts Additional parts that come with the car (only listing the notable items): * Passenger side floor panel. * Steering box. As mentioned above I bought this at 02 Salvage in Hayward during my parts stockpiling phase. It has two or three threads still exposed on the adjustment screw. * Cylinder head. See picture. I don't remember the provenance for this -- I believe it is healthy but I can't remember if I had it pressure tested. Basically after cracking my cylinder head I managed to buy two and this is the one that I didn't install. * New exhaust manifold. * New front brake rotors. Tho they have been sitting for 13 years so there are spots of surface rust. * Two camshafts (as well as rockers, valves, springs, etc.). One of them is marked as a Norris 301 cam -- it came with one of the cylinder heads I bought and I remember it had more aggressive lobe angles, but I didn't write anything down about them. * Chrome sideview mirrors. These don't have the same mounting footprint as the plastic mirrors currently mounted. * A battery, new in 2017 that has been periodically put on a conditioner and trickle charger. Not Included In my pictures, the wheel dollies are not part of this sale.
  2. Anyone know of a cheap place to store my 2002 for the next 6 mo. to a year? I'm in the Bay Area, and going through the yellow pages I was kind of shocked at see $70-$100/month as the going rate for an outdoor spot somewhere inside a chainlink fence! Maybe I'll have to head out to the central valley...
  3. Hi. I've put about 300 miles on my car since putting back together the engine and driveline and am now having problems with a loud noise coming from the rear of the car when slowing down. At higher speeds (like 3000 rpm in 4th gear) the sound comes with even a slight slowing of the car, like backing off slightly on the throttle, or pressing the clutch, so that the engine isn't driving the wheels anymore. The sound goes away as soon as I increase the throttle slightly. At low speeds (like coming to a stop at a stop sign), the sound is periodic, and sounds like it's coming from the left side of the car, and sounds very "creaky". The sound is only when the car is in motion (idling and revving the engine at rest is ok). The sound comes in any gear (neutral to 4th), and doesn't change based upon the clutch. The transmission is mounted securely, and there is no noticeable vibration in the driveshaft. The center bearing and flexible coupling are both new. The problem didn't appear for the first 200 miles, so I don't think they're the problem. I suspect the rear left wheel bearing. At one point I took off the castellated nut at the end of the axle, and I'm wondering if there is a torque specification in putting it back on? It seems like if the wheel is speeding up, then there might be a force that seats the bearing well, but when the wheel is slowing down, a force acts in the other direction, unseating the bearing, and hence the noise? Does this make sense to anyone? Also, what socket size is used for the castellated axle nut? Looks like a 35 or 36 mm? Any input would be appreciated.
  4. Hi. What do the numbers in the wiring diagrams signify? Is this the diameter of the wire in millimeters? And the diameter does not include the housing, correct? I have a stock of AWG sized wire and am looking to correlate gauge size to the wiring diagrams.
  5. Hi Delia. I live in Palo Alto (the Bay Area) and will be at a wedding in Ann Arbor on the 20th of May. I was going to drive my 02 across the country and back, but my engine rebuild has gone a little slower than expected. I buckled and bought a plane ticket, but would still like to drive an 02 across the country (even if it's not mine...). I could drive it from Michigan to the Bay Area if you have somewhere for me to leave it.
  6. Hmm, I just put my head back together and didn't use anything more than the distributor gasket... Can you elaborate on the "bolt with the special seal"?
  7. I picked up a coolant test kit and there were no traces of combustion gases. Also, the white smoke out of the tail pipe has stopped, after about 20 minutes of total running time. I traced the oil leak and it's above the head gasket -- looks like the #4 exhaust port. So everyone who replied to my original post turned out to be spot on! Thanks to all for the help.
  8. Thanks for the info. I have oil leaking at the head/block interface at the back of the engine on the exhaust side. If the cylinder head is flat, and the head gasket is new, why should there be such an obvious leak? I've already torqued down the bolts to an amount larger than the published numbers. Do I need some sort of head gasket sealant? I did a compression test as well -- not good. Each cylinder was in the 110 psi range which seems like a very low number. I'd think that if it was a crack in the head, that only one cylinder would be affected, so this is looking increasingly like a head gasket problem... Does anyone have any experience with a leaking head gasket on a rebuilt engine?
  9. Hi. I just rebuilt an engine and put it in my '02. But there is a major problem in that there's all kinds of water (liquid and white smoke) coming out the tailpipe at idle. The smoke appears about 20-30 seconds after the engine is started and seems to get worse as the engine heats up. I'm using a new head gasket. The cylinder head was pressure tested and checked for flatness, and there were no problems. I checked the block for flatness and it was ok. I torqued down on the cylinder head bolts in 3 stages, like the McCartney book says. I have subsequently retorqued the bolts with higher torques, in hopes of the problem going away, but no luck. Does anyone have any ideas on this? I just don't understand how this can be happening. Thanks. Chris
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