Releaf1

Hangers for the right side exit mufflers up to '74 are different than the hangers the center exit '75's and '76's. Many people have found this out the hard way when switching from center to side exit mufflers or vice versa.

Had the same issue once. Finally figured out that I was firing on the cold start valve then dying due to lack of fuel. I had the injectors cleaned before reinstalling them and it turns out that they were all stuck shut. Apparently the cleaning solvent was dirty and it left a residue that locked them closed. Tapped them lightly with a small hammer to break them free and all was good. Are you sure you're getting fuel from all injectors? Just an idea....

So I've been running an 1847V Pertronix in my stock 1976 2002 with a vacuum advance distributor. Going to a mechanical advance 002 distributor as part of an engine rebuild. The FAQ and the Pertronix website don't list the 002 specifically, but the 008 calls for an 1843. Does anyone know what the difference is? Do I really need the 1843 or will my 1847V work?

Yes, if you don't have the bolts, then there's a clip on the inside on the end of the shaft. Remove the clip and the shaft easily pulls out by hand, no puller needed. Then remove the 4 bolts and the cover with the seal comes off. Then gently remove the shims and the o-ring is behind them. The shims aren't necessarily the same on each side, so don't mix them up. As long as you're in there, you might as well replace the input shaft seal as well. It's actually not too bad of a job. First, remove the gears from the inside so all that's left in the housing is the input shaft. With a little twisting, they come out in one piece; no need to take them apart. Then turn the input shaft by hand just to get a feel for how much resistance there is. Next, mark the nut and the shaft with a punch, then count the revolutions it takes to remove the nut. Install the new seal and crush washer, then reinstall the nut the same number of turns it took to remove it + 1/8 or 1/4 extra turn. That is, if it takes 7 revolutions to remove, tighten it just a little over 7 revolutions when putting it back on. Then turn it by hand. Should have about the same resistance as before. Then reinstall the gears and the output shafts. It's a pretty straight forward job. Good luck.

I've searched and searched and searched to no avail. If I install a Spal electirc fan, is there still room for an a/c condensor in front of it. Anyone have pics that they could share? I can't find pics or a discussion about this anywhere, but I can't be the first person to wonder about it. Thanks.[/url]

What's the best way to protect a crack-free dash? The folks at Leatherique say to rub vaseline into it. While their leather care products are the best, I just can't ring myself to use vaseline on my car. Anyone done it? Or what do you recommend? Thanks.

I've got both 11 and 12mm hard lines and 14mm flexes. I hate to tell you this, but you'll be better off checking them all.

Made a little progress in the last few weeks, thought I'd post an update. Installed the refurbished heater box with CLOSED CELL weatherstripping. Original pedal box. If you look close, you can see a stick inside. ??? Sandblasted, primed, painted, and reassembled with new nylon bushings, clutch master, etc. And installed New firewall insulation and drain tubes, painted brake booster, etc. Front suspension reassembled and installed. All nuts/bolts on rubber bushings are finger tight until until engine and tires are installed and weight is on suspension. New front bearings installed. The keen eye will notice that not only did I forget the rotors, but the backer plate has the caliper cut out on the wrong side. Need to swap them both to the other side. NUTS! Repainted rear suspension installed With new wheel bearings Finally off the casters and on jack stands That's about it for now. Still a LONG way to go. (See why I said to take your time on the carpet, Esty?) But it sure is nice putting clean parts on a car that's not greasy. What's next? Well, reinstall the brake lines, then the new master cylinder, calipers, and rear wheel cylinders & springs I received this week form Mr. Blunt. Also need to determine which of my 6 steering boxes has the least amount of wear so I can n stall shaft seals. Then the sunroof & new headliner (received today, Steve) so the A-pillar cover and dash can go in. Haven't decided what to do here yet Might just spray with rubberized undercoating, but would like to deaden the sound while I'm at it. Should I be concerned with Raamat falling off in the summer heat? Once I get the headliner in, I don't want to take it off.

I, too, can never seem to get the search function to work. And I've tried dozens of times using all kinds of different conbinations. In fact, I get no matches with the example above, using choke AND electric AND adjust. Seems it's feast or famine for me, either hundreds of matches or none. Browser related, perhaps?

So I posted a pic a few weeks ago of my latest project, a '76 Taiga, coming home from the body shop. My wife's worn out two square tailight Taiga's in the last dozen or so years and this will be her third. Knowing this day was coming, I picked up an Arizona car on the cheap a while back from a BMW tech. It was rustfree, but needed a passenger quarterpanel (was hit) and a complete interior. The best thing about it, though, was that it came with $2k in parts he bought to rebuild the engine. Pistons, conn rods, 292 cam, etc. Just the kind of project I was looking for. We had a little heartburn over changing the color from Fjord to Taiga, but in the end that's what she wanted So a buddy of mine runs the body shop for a local dealership and paints for 30 packs of Busch Light. I removed the bad quarter, tacked on a new one, and let him have the car. A few Saturdays later, he sent me home with this. So then I had to decide just how good of a restoration I wanted to do. That may seem like a silly question, but this car will be a daily driver that my wife will use to haul our 10 and 12 year old sons to baseball and soccer practice. It isn't going to be a garage queen, likely won't ever see V@V, make the trip to Arkansas, or be entered in a car show. So, as crazy as it sounds, I don't want to make it too nice. Let's face it, it's going to get scratched and suffer wear and tear of teenage boys. So I settled on a 100%, nut-and-bolt mechanical restoration and a real nice "5 footer". That way I can feel good about giving her a kick-ass cool looking, mechanically solid car to drive without having to worry about when the first scratch is going to come. So that decision made, it's on to work... Raamatt installed Front and rear suspension components blasted, painted, new bushings installed, and assembled. Ready for intallation. Wiring Harness cleaned, re-wrapped with Super 88+, and reinstalled. Front end blackened behind the grill. My apologies to the purists, it's not done with a brush. It's 3M Rubberized undercoating. Heater box refurbished and ready to go back in. I finally made the acquaintance of Mr. Steve Blunt today. Now waiting on elephant trucks drail tubes (among many other things) to reinstall the heater box, then this crack-free dash. Soooo much more work to do, but it sure is nice installing new parts on a clean, grease free car. More updates to follow.

Looong time lurker here from west-central Illinois, but I think this is my first actual post. My wife's daily driver during the non-winter weather for the last dozen or 15 years has been a '76 Taiga. She's actually been through 2 of them. The tin worm has finally caught up with her 2nd, so I picked up a rust-free shell from Arizona to build her a 3rd. It started out a '76 Fjord and, after much debate, we decided to change to Taiga. Not that there is anything wrong with Fjord; it's just not Taiga. And it's her car and that's what she wanted.... I'll post updates as the build progresses.

the same problem and found it to be vapor lock. EVERY time I shut it down in 90+ temps and started it up again within a half an hour. Ran fine after the engine had completely cooled down. Have not had the problem since I quit burning 10% ethanol and went to straight 87 octane gas.

I'm looking to put a 5-Speed in my wife's '76 taiga and want to go through it first. I'm not having any luck finding a rebuild kit. Seals, synchros, bearings, etc. Does anyone know of such a kit offered anywhere? It must be cheaper in kit form than ordering all the pieces individually. TIA.

Can anyone help me with a rust free, square taillight, passenger rear quarter? My '76 Taiga was hit and the quarter was damaged beyond repair. Thanks. s(dot)hinton@mchsi(dot)com

Where do I hook up a remote, push button starter? Connecting to the starter terminals spins the starter, but it doesn't energize the solenoid and engage the flywheel.

I'm currently down to 3, but my stable also includes four 6-series, an '81 633, two '82 euro 635's, and an '87 M6. Thank God for wives that like to drive fast!