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  1. My father built this Entex kit back in the 70s. After some “rough play” by, ahem, yours truly as a youngster it sat in a shoebox until just recently. I sorted all the pieces and have given it a cleaning in some “photo flo” negative film wash/warm water. After the rebuild I have a fresh decal set to apply... so it should be on the road in a few days!
  2. I just received a tranny from an eBay auction from Mike and it has some, er... "issues". Can someone PM me with Mike's contact info (ie shop phone #, email address) or forward my name to him? Thanks...
  3. It will be on Speed starting sometime in March I believe. In the meantime, I am going to try and post a bit torrent on Piranha...
  4. Yup, I'm the driver. Would like to go to a Willwood system (more options for brake pads). So two lines off the cylinder into the adaptor, then one line from the adaptor to the Willwood?
  5. Lee, I'll see you in St. John's... have you a Willwood front brake kit that will work with the 2-line/caliper tii brake cylinder? Or would I have to go to a non-tii brake cylinder (1 line per front caliper)?
  6. Watch how much you have the car lowered... we couldn't install the IE header on our '74 race car as the collector pipe scraped everytime we drove over an "undulation"... had to go back to a smaller collector size header... oh, and we have a 5-speed so as another poster has indicated, this may not be an issue with a 4-speed
  7. Perfect... got it... Thanks Bill! Now I'm going to record this on a little recipe card, get it laminated, and put it in my "electricals toolbox"!
  8. The simplest issues, it seems, get the most confusing... I have searched the Forums and the matter of which way to hand-turn the distributor to either Advance OR Retard the timing is not exactly clear. Assuming that I have a CLOCKWISE ROTATING distributor (ie all the M10 engines except late E21s), if I loosen the distributor housing and rotate it, which way ADVANCES the timing/RETARDS the timing??!! Logic would seem to suggest that, using an "engine OFF" scenario, rotating the distributor clockwise moves the dist cap contacts further ahead of the clockwise-moving rotor button. But logic has failed me before...!
  9. Thanks Ian! When you say "tie into the dash bar for a mounting point", are you referring to the cage dash bar or the unibody frame/bar wihch already exists there. If you mean the cage dash bar, are you saying I could/should weld on a plate in that area to mount the pedal assembly to? Brian
  10. We're looking to remove the tii booster/master cylinder assembly from our race car and install a "Tilton"-type pedal set (brakes/clutch) and triple master cylinders (one for clutch, one for rear disk brake lines, one for front brake lines)... Anyone install a similar system in their '02? Specifics on part #s, tips, etc. most appreciated... Barbarian Mutter Werks Rally Team Home of the "Ditchpig"
  11. Found a tranny with "225" and "242.00.325.00" stamped inside the bell housing. Also has "80/81" timed-stamped. Looks like a 5-speed because of the length. Definetaly a manual shift (strange, I know, because manual tranny's start with part #"24") So anyone able to tell me what's inside this Cracker Jack box??!! TIA Barbarian Mutter Werks Rally Team Home of the "Ditchpig"
  12. Dave, Have you got Alpina-style front AND rear fenders in fibreglass available yet? We need to swap our stock-with-flares fenders for something to accomodate 225/50R13s on 13x8 Panasports on the race car... Brian Halifax, NS
  13. Will you consider shipping (via US Postal Service) to Canada? (Postal Code B3L 2Z5)
  14. The last picture (taken on Day 4) is after the first four (Day 2)... no damage from incident... we were oversteering like crazy and just couldn't get the speed off enough to make the corner... a rear-disk package and suspension adjustments for '06 will help! Brian Jarvis Driver... car #508 Targa Newfoundland!
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