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AustrianVespaGuy

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Everything posted by AustrianVespaGuy

  1. AustrianVespaGuy
    Halltech makes good ECUs, and Bosch TBs have indeed gotten rather ubiquitous. Jim, do you already happen to know what electronic pedal fits nicely in a 2002? Since there aren't many (any?) bottom pivot ones, how do you mount it, just straight to the firewall? This could be fun, and doing away with the IAC and linkage conundrums would really be nice. . .
  2. AustrianVespaGuy
    Yep, almost 4 years now and I like to think that old write up helped get me the job. So Mini has been my first 'new' ECU launch rather than just incremental revisions so I'm quite excited about it! So if you're ever in GA come on by the DIY shop and say hi!
  3. AustrianVespaGuy
    @sczapiga Thank you! I'm very proud of our new Mini ECU and despite the higher price, I'm hoping that we can supplant a LOT of Microsquirt builds with them! And it's not even that expensive, only $675 with the harness (plus on-board MAP sensor, serial adapter, and TunerStudio license). So @ExpensiveHoby, shameless self-shill: ditch the old AEM, grab a new Mini (or AMP'd microsquirt if you must to keep the budget down), and help support a fellow FAQer at the same time! Plus then I absolutely CAN help you get it sorted out and tuned. (/End self-promotion, I promise I won't do it again, but couldn't help just this once with the new Mini getting mentioned!) MS3Pro Mini Standalone Engine Management System w/ Harness WWW.DIYAUTOTUNE.COM The MS3Pro Mini by AMP EFI supports GM LS Engines, Bosch Motronic, New Hemi and including a variety of imports engines as well!
  4. AustrianVespaGuy
    Yeah, don't do that! Granted I'm speaking before having put it back IN yet, but dropping the subframe out was actually rather straight forward with no major complications. I had it out in about 3 hours by myself. Wooden from and rachet strap to support the engine, up on the jackstands and the wheels off. Took a bit of futzing around to access all the safety-wire strut bolts but I'd had them apart a few years ago and soaked 'em first, so no major drama there. Then the steering coupler and engine mounts, and finally the six subframe bolts and down she came! Really wasn't that bad, though as I said I'm betting getting everything aligned to go back together might - uncharacteristically - be the trickier half of this job, but we'll see shortly!
  5. AustrianVespaGuy
    Well, main issue resolved! If I can find that pair of new balljoints that I *think* I might already have laying around here somewhere by the time I get done painting it, I'll swap 'em out and put them on top this time, but if I can't dig them up then I'll just I'll leave well enough alone. Thanks all!
  6. AustrianVespaGuy
    P.S. The fancy 14mm safety wire bolts that hold the knuckle to the bottom of the strut are NLA right? Mine are OK, but would feel better if there were new(er) fasteners I could use for re-assembly. . .
  7. AustrianVespaGuy
    So while prepping my car for sale as I can't in good conscience sell my car unless it's 100%, I unfortunately discovered that my engine mount bracket has started to crack. So out with the subframe to weld in the reinforcement. Not a huge deal, already have it out, but here's the weird thing that I found during the process that I'm not sure whether I need to mess with also or leave it be. The lower ball joints had been replaced on my car before I got it, so I never messed with them when doing the struts, just compressed the spring get it out from under the fender and left the bottom all attached. But this time I split the knuckles from the strut to get the subframe out and left the struts in the car (didn't really want to open the brake lines), and it appears to me that the replacement ball joints were installed 'wrong.' Wrong as in they poke up through the bottom of the control arm rather than sitting on the top of it. This in turn I think has led to the knuckle chewing up the control arm flanges a bit. Now I don't think this happens while driving, only when turning lock to lock when at full droop with the nose in the air. While I'm here, should I go ahead and replace the ball joints, but this time install them on the top side like in all the diagrams I've seen? After removing the nut, how does one separate the knuckle from the ball joint? And do I need to replace the control arms too? What sayeth the FAQ?
  8. AustrianVespaGuy
    We recently got my wife an EV6 and while it does look a *little* bit goofy it's at least a very beautiful green color! I actually quite like the thing; it's perfect for her since all she really ever does is commute with it, and it's also really good for the super short trips where for a normal car it would just be 2 cold starts and never get warmed up. And frankly with the 2002, E30, E39 M5, and minivan, I don't really mind NOT having as much standard maintenance to worry about for her car! All that said, I still say *most* pickups are dumb and the Tesla pickup is extra-dumb. . .
  9. AustrianVespaGuy
    Might be interested, got any pictures of it outside of the bag, or even better opened up/wear measurements?
  10. AustrianVespaGuy
    Oooh, while I agree Florida is an absolutely WONDERFUL color. . . is it really green? I suppose it does seem to have some green in it but to me in pictures it always seemed more in the white/grey 'family' than green. What's the paint sticker call it, Floridagrun, or just Florida? Promise I'm not intending to be argumentative here, honest curiosity as I've seen so few in real life!
  11. AustrianVespaGuy
    Looks great, but what does the spring bear against? Are you drilling/tapping into the fuel pump pushrod in order thread the setscrew into the rod?
  12. AustrianVespaGuy
    So the prettiest green I think I've ever seen in my life was on a 3.0CS and the paint sticker called it 'Tundra.' That said if we're talking 2002s then the right answer is always, and can only every be, Mintgrun!!!
  13. AustrianVespaGuy
    Well you're certainly not wrong, it's totally unnecessary and using some sort of distributor-based trigger is certainly easier. I just REALLY like the cleverness of repurposing the now-vestigial fuel pump lobe as it's perfectly suited to this task: signaling just one t per cam revolution!
  14. AustrianVespaGuy
    Even that *kinda* wouldn't matter. At least with almost all ECUs I know of, once the engine starts and you get good sync with the cam signal, even if you then loose the cam signal while the engine is still running it stays sequential as it can just count crank rotations. At least I know MS will throw a 'cam fault' error, but it won't drop back to wasted/batch if the crank signal stays good. Needs to be able to RE-sync on the next startup of course, but just loosing cam signal at high RPM from shaft float should be kinda meh-no-big-deal.
  15. AustrianVespaGuy
    @veronatii If that's an 8mm rod you're using, would not one of the M8-bodied sensors also work?
  16. AustrianVespaGuy
    117 Euro ain't cheap but gets you up to 248F. . . https://xecro.com/shop/inductive-high-temperature/ihtd6-s2anc45-a2s/
  17. AustrianVespaGuy
    Ooohh, I LOVE this, good find! I'm slightly worried about oil getting out through that hole in your block off plate, but I'm sure you'll solve that if it's an issue. Also, it does seem that the spec sheet lists operating temperature from -13 to 158F, so. . . we might need to find a more 'robust' candidate, but I might be inclined to take another shot at this also!
  18. AustrianVespaGuy
    Nope sorry, never had reason to as (so far, knock on wood!) the thing has stayed leak-free and effective at exchanging heat! I sure hope you didn't just jinx me. . . XD
  19. AustrianVespaGuy
    Yes, that Spal motorcycle fan delivers just as much and maybe a tad more airflow than any stock blower (based on how well I remember them, been a while since I had a stock one!). Regardless, it's just great for both cabin heat and windshield defrosting!
  20. AustrianVespaGuy
    I'm here to remind all you guys that if your heater box/core is in good condition (aka not leaking and making good hot air) but you just have a dead fan, there's an easy solution that's only $50 and does NOT involve removing the whole heater box!
  21. AustrianVespaGuy
    I did a whole article complete with links to all the parts to make a great bellcrank linkage that then pulls on whatever throttle cable you want. . .
  22. AustrianVespaGuy
    Yeah I agree a VR sensor probably would not work that well, but a Hall triggers nicely off a cam lobe; we've done it in a Slant 6! Adding a camshaft and crankshaft position sensor to an older engine WWW.DIYAUTOTUNE.COM Older engines typically do not have provisions for cam and crank position sensors. Here is an example of adding these on a Chrysler slant six. At least as long as you're not using an aluminum camshaft anyway! XD
  23. AustrianVespaGuy
    IMO opinion either this or a similar hole in the rocker cover with the sensor mounted to trigger off the fuel pump lobe is the better way to go than trying to use the distributor position. I *almost* bored out a head once to try mounting a sensor in place of the fuel pump, but figured a good head was not quite the right part to experiment with. . .
  24. AustrianVespaGuy
    Fair question, and indeed I thought the day would never come, but something went south in the old engine (still haven't figured out what) and after a year of it just sitting in machine shops with no progress I threw in the towel and put a whole new engine in it. But now that it's finally back on the road. . . I actually haven't been driving it much and I've also realized that I (sadly) didn't even miss it that much this past year it was down. So maybe it's finally time to consider moving on to 'the next project'. . .
  25. AustrianVespaGuy
    '75 Mintgrün 2002 "Asterix" for sale in Atlanta GA area, Megasquirt EFI, longtime active FAQer, asking $25k! I think the time has finally come to move on to the next project. Kids + commuting - space are taking a toll, and after finally getting it back on the road after sitting for a year without an engine in it (more on that below) has made me realize I'm just not driving/missing driving it as much as I thought I would. I'm still getting a few odds and ends sorted, but I want to make sure FAQers get first dibs, so putting this up here before I bother even thinking about things like FB marketplace or BaT. Here's the short list: Body is GREAT! Originally Jade but someone sparyed a quick'n'dirty red over top of that, so in 2009 I had it sanded down, fixed the bad spots, and (properly) repainted my favorite Mint. 15 years on it has a few corner chips, etc. but still is straight, shiny, clean, and RUST FREE! Inside the floors have been POR-15ed, FatMatted, and new carpet around that same time that now probably no longer counts as 'new.' Generic but comfy and light cloth sport seats, 3-spoke 320iS steering wheel, and rear shoulder belts. ALL the driveline goodies: Bilsteins with H&R springs, Getrag 245 5-speed, 3.91 LSD, rebuilt steering box, rebuilt stock brakes - I stayed stock so that they still fit under the beautiful 14" Panasports! Currently running on a good-condition stock engine, complemented by the Megasquirt fuel injected 318i intake and Supersprint 4-2-1 exhaust, which sounds just beautiful. Puts 90HP and 100ft-lbs. of torque down to the rear wheels, with a really great torque curve: Also comes with the original/matching engine that I rebuilt in 2009, including the freshly rebuilt E12 head with a NEW 292 cam, BUT was recently pulled due to a bad knock from the bottom end that I just haven't been able to figure out (it's not rod knock, bearings are all fine). I'm sure it's still worth saving though: Great head, good genuine BMW oil pump, good crankshaft, IE 9.5:1 pistons, IE crank pulley/trigger wheel, head, etc. Everything works and I've done many little electrical upgrades and fortunately the details for all of them are available here on the forums since I always post my schematics, etc. A few notable ones include the automatic electric cooling fan, VDO oil pressure gauge, Koito headlights, aux daytime running lights (also function as additional driving lights with the high beams), LED brake and turn signal bulbs, and my personal favorite: the LED bargraph indicator built into the Fasten Seat Belt pod for AFR and battery voltage! Also quite a few extra spares and goodies that can be included with a good offer, such as a Lynx manifold w/matching DCOE!
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