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AustrianVespaGuy

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Everything posted by AustrianVespaGuy

  1. Available? Trying to solve a noise issue and would love to try this to rule out timing chain issues!
  2. Alright, let me see if I can get a quote or two for what it'll take to get a 350# engine here from WA, thanks, will keep you posted!
  3. I'll bite, any idea what cam/pistons are in there and, assuming I set it all up, you able/willing to put it on a pallet for shipment?
  4. I like that it's already caged, however said cage doesn't seem to include any door bars. . . 😒
  5. Er. . . *SORT* of. Per unit density that's true, one gram of ethanol contains 30% less energy than one gram of gasoline, but that isn't quite the whole story. Gasoline burns at one part gas to 14.7 parts oxygen, however ethanol uses only 9 parts oxygen to 1 part ethanol. So for a given volume of air (or in familiar terms, once cylinder fillings' worth), you can actually burn almost 50% MORE ethanol per combustion than you can gasoline. This obviously does two things: it actually makes a *little* bit MORE power (70% power * 150% = 105% power), but you're fuel economy takes a bit hit. So, just like Obi Wan said, it all depends on your point of view. You indeed have less energy in the tank, and accordingly can't drive as far. But on the other hand, it'll go a bit faster until empty!
  6. Hey better late than never! And don't hesitate to reach out with questions if you get stuck on something!
  7. To be even more precise, the lamp is connected BETWEEN the battery (positive) and the alternator. So when you first switch the ignition on (with a good battery), you have +12v from the battery on one side and 0v alternator on the other, current flows, and the light illuminates. Get the alternator spinning and putting out some juice, and you now have ~14v alternator on one side and ~14v charging battery on the other, no current flow, and no light. Now say your regulator fails, and your alternator goes ballistic and starts pumping out 20V, with your poor battery trying to suck things down to its happy-zone while getting force-fed from a fire hose it'll be something like 15-16v, and now you have a 4v differential and the light will also start to glow a bit indicating a high-voltage issue. It's pretty clever as it can detect multiple sorts of malfunctions, but DON'T try to put an LED bulb in there, as it will only work this way/correctly with an incandescent filament in there!
  8. Er, please do NOT do this. With headlights, LEDs need optics that are designed to work with the LEDs. While an H4 LED uses the same base, the surface are/position of all the LEDs on there that produce the light is much larger/different than the single small filament of an incandescent H4 bulb. And when you're producing additional light that is 'outside' of the focal point of the optics, it then gets directed places you don't want it, such as into the eyes of oncoming drivers. This isn't a problem with tail and turn lights where additional scatter is actually a good thing and the whole point of for other people to see the light, but headlight light needs to be more deliberately focused. So if you want LED headlights that's fine, but please get a set that comes with the correct 7" packaging and properly designed/integrated optics!
  9. This is exactly what I was going to say!
  10. => BMW M10 Heritage Throttle Body Kit STORE.JENVEY.CO.UK BMW Individual Throttle Body (ITB) kit for fuel injecting your BMW M10 4 cylinder from Jenvey Dynamics includes a pair of TDP45 Heritage throttle bodies,a Jenvey Dynamics EFI inlet manifold and 40mm long airhorns. Jenvey throttle bodies and all Jenvey throttle body... Just gotta spend the money but then you get EXACTLY what you want. . .
  11. Wise words (as usual) here. Which to help translate I think means pop for the Jenvys if you really want to keep things stealthy, or opt for function over form and go port injection. IMO the E21 320i intake manifold makes for a reasonable tii-imitation and the curved runners help hide the fuel rail/injectors quite a bit. . .
  12. Ok, I've stayed away long enough, time to weigh in on this thread. @squirt46, let's roll back a little and recap: what's your goal here? Is it still: We've also gotten a bit stuck on the cold start thing, which frankly, is rather at odds with the desire for ITBs. So while we can still make a decent compromise either way, which one is more important? Do you want a hiccup-free, modern-car start and warmup which still has good performance and sound but maybe gives up the sex appeal of ITBs, or do you really want the ITBs with the least-bad warmup characteristics we can get you? Let's start there first.
  13. Dang it I really want these, but iirc they won't fit underneath my 14x6 et22 Panasports, right? 😕
  14. That's sure how it looks to me; to my eye the threads on the 'top' side looks smooshed together but on the bottom side they look streeeetched! Like maybe it took a whack and got bent upwards a bit. . . Then again, maybe it's just an optical delusion due the the camera angle and weirdo LH threads.
  15. I once had one of the spokes break where we unwisely had drilled an hole in it to mount the radio button in the middle of a turn during a ChumpCar race. Fortunately, the two remaining spokes were enough to keep it functional, but boy was that thing FLOPPY! So yeah not exactly something I would recommend experiencing if avoidable!
  16. I'll second what @jimk said, and don't sweat it too much. Making sure you can get a good TPS on there is about the only important part, and now it seems you've got 3 good options for that: Nissan, BMW M50, and now this Cavalier TB. If it's easy to bolt up to your manifold, for the price/availability I'd say that looks like a magnificent option! Also, don't mess with EDIS. It USED to be a great solution back in the day when stand-alone ECUs were pretty limited, but now they all have the ability to properly read any crank signal you throw at them and fire the coils directly, so EDIS has become a rather unnecessary middle-man.
  17. Sorta already answered, but weighing in anyway. To keep things simple for you, especially if it's been a while since the old hardware has been apart, $20 plus some loctite gets you a brand new set of studs (WITH allen head sockets to make installation/removal extra easy) and correct/easy clearance copper nuts: Stud & Copper Nut for Exhaust Manifolds – M10/M20/M30 – Ireland Engineering | Racing & Performance Parts for BMW & MINI WWW.IEMOTORSPORT.COM Each Edit: While you're at it if you've got another $20 bill to spare, I personally REALLY like the exhaust gasket with built-in heat shield flap to protect the plug wires. . . Heat Shield / Exhaust Gasket – M10 – Ireland Engineering | Racing & Performance Parts for BMW & MINI WWW.IEMOTORSPORT.COM Each
  18. You did use high-pressure fuel injection rated hose, and not plain ol' low pressure carb fuel hose right? Worth checking now, should be printed on the side, needs to be rated for something greater than 3 bar! The 'box' with the green connector looks suspiciously like a MAP sensor, so must be running speed-density, and that's clearly a wasted spark coil pack, which leaves the only question: what's your RPM input to the ECU? Check and see if there's a trigger wheel on the backside of your crank pulley, I'll bet there is, then count the teeth on it. Probably/hopefully a 36-1. Which all brings us to, what to do next? If after this work it's now running well enough that you're happy with it, then great, you're done! If not, and/or you want access to tune the thing (unless someone else knows anything about this DTA thing), then I'd say just swap it out for a Mircosquirt. Basically the same functionality but much more widespread/supported. The only tricky bit would be figuring out the existing wiring and getting all the wires matched up correctly. On the plus side, it really looks like you've got every bit of hardware you need already, so it'd be *just* swapping out the ECU and doing the wiring. I wouldn't bother if it's running fine and you're not excited about the idea of messing with it. But if you're unhappy with it and/or have the itch to tinker, then. . . AMP'd MicroSquirt with 8 foot harness- AMP IT UP!!!! WWW.DIYAUTOTUNE.COM It's MicroSquirt... AMP'd!!! It's everything you know and love made a little tougher for larger engines, and easier to use. Hell, you can even just get the 30" instead of 8' harness!
  19. You *probably* could, but the contours of that little pocket make the mounting tricky, so you'd need to match the curves pretty closely in order to get velcro/tape to actually hold well enough. I think it'd be possible, and maybe worth it if your dash is perfect, but if I were to do it again I'd probably still just bite the bullet and drill small holes where needed; most dashes have cracks that are worse than those little holes after all! Thanks, I'm proud of that one, though it was trickier than I expected to fit everything into that little pod; was less room in there than I originally thought! Basically though, there's this great LM3914 chip that is a dual-purpose voltage comparator and LED driver all in one, meant to drive LED bargraphs. So one just uses battery voltage as the input and is scaled to light the LEDs in the 11~15v range, and the other one uses the AFR input and is scaled to light its LEDs over the 0~5v output from the wideband. See schematic in Figures 9&10 here: LED ‘Graph’ Circuits | Nuts & Volts Magazine WWW.NUTSVOLTS.COM Nuts & Volts Magazine is written for the hands-on electronics hobbyist, design engineer, technician, and experimenter.
  20. Yes, me! I mounted it to the vertical side of the cluster housing, and it did mean drilling a small hole through the bottom of dash pad to run the wires: I put it there because I'd already built a nice little combination AFR + Ammeter into my seatbelt pod, and wanted to use up the pretty 'useless' LH space rather than cut into the more useful RH storage tray area. I'm quite happy with it and stand by my decision!
  21. Also, I worked for YEARS on coming up with a really good throttle linkage setup on my car with that same manifold/TB, so if you're at all unhappy with yours, here's how to do it right:
  22. Yes, more pics please! Would especially like to see what ECU you have in there. If it's Megasquit, great, I'll help you get it running perfectly! If not, then let's put a Megasquirt in it, and I'll help you get it running perfectly! More info/questions: Those are indeed Porsche injectors that are rated to flow about 22lbs/hr @ 3 bar fuel pressure. They're only the 2-pintle design though, which is fine but not as good as the later 4-pintle injectors. Wouldn't worry about that unless you are already changing injectors for some other reason. No distributor means you're *probably* running wasted-spark ignition, which is great! How's your cold idle; know if you have a idle valve on there? Look at your crank pulley, is there some sort of a trigger wheel on there? If no distributor, I'd expect so, and another sign that you're in high cotton with a great EFI setup! More pics, more info please! EDIT: Oh yeah and the circled 970 is not important, only the main part number 0280150470.
  23. A great solution to this is to install an electric booster pump. Just a cheap little inline thing in the trunk, can even power it from the rear defroster circuit (wires are convenient, already a switch on the dash, etc). Just flip it on for a few seconds before you start the car to prime the lines and the carb bowl, and does double duty with purging any vapor lock issues after a hot shutdown too!
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