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AustrianVespaGuy

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AustrianVespaGuy last won the day on July 3

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  1. Pop the cluster out and I think it's an 8mm headed bolt that just screws into the back of it.
  2. Thanks @ray_, and sorry! Also squoze probably isn't a real word either, but oh well. . . 🙄 Finally found the picture for you! A little over 1/4" clearance now I'd estimate, though the SS geometry is still a bit different than your IE setup, so will need to 'season to taste' as they say.
  3. I actually had this problem with my Supersprint headers, so I promise you're not alone! I first tried dimpling them in the right spot (just squoze it in a vice a bit to oval out that area) which gained me enough clearance to get it to 'fit,' but it still banged around a bit during certain situations/loads. I then put in either a 1/8" or 3/16" shim on top of the engine mount and that REALLY fixed things. Now zero problems! So good luck with it, but I'm confident you won't let this stop you now!
  4. Esty here on the FAQ for carpets and I think Aardvark racing does new door panels. Not sure on seat covers but I'll bet somebody will chime in on that!
  5. I don't think *all* of these are 2002 parts. 7 looks like a much more modern-style bracket with those plastic clips designed to hold hoses/electrical cables, but I don't think I can name a single thing like that on the 2002; afaik the harness only ever attaches to clips on the actual body. 5 looks like a trunk latch, but with a cable running to it that means remote activation; something else that was at least never stock on 2002s. 6 looks like a non-2002 hood latch. 4 & 8 both look like non-2002 exhaust manifold heat shields. 12 I *think* I recognize as some sort of support in the vicinity of the steering column (what that little curved cutout is for) though I can't recall exactly where or even which car.
  6. RESOUNDING SUCCESS!!! So no BS, the old monster 3-amp PC fan did in fact work for over a decade, here it sits just before today's swap (already popped of the little safety wire cage thing): And here's the replacement 5.2" Spal fan 20 minutes later! And it works BEAUTIFULLY! I'd estimate (decade old memory by now) it's essentially the same as the stock airflow, or about 2x the airflow the PC fan put out. Also, 3 speeds from the stock resistor work PERFECTLY!!! Low/Med/High just as you'd expect! It's even a bit quieter than the higher pitched whiny PC fan was. Really, truly, very stock-like performance in every way! It even LOOKS the part! For reference, it's the Spal 30103189 / VA37/A101/HD/1-46S 5.2" pusher fan: VA37-A101-46S.pdf I bought mine for $34 on ebay here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Spal-fan-5-2-12volt-pusher-HD-waterproof-for-ATV-Motorcycles-Trans-Cooler/114159255729 How's THAT for a long-term follow up!?!
  7. Since you mentioned it's a 74, then I can say unequivocally that @Son of Marty is correct and those are the Brown/Red, Brown/Yellow, and Green/White wires that originally controlled the bug 'FASTEN SEAT BELT' sign in the middle of the dashboard: And at least that green/white wire is hot whenever the ignition is on, so you should at the very least properly insulate the cut ends so that they don't short out against anything! For future reference: http://www.2002tii.org/diagrams/bmw2002tii-usa-1974.pdf
  8. Nice! And which TPS is that again? I know you listed the P/N but what's its 'normal' application?
  9. Rob, which diagram are you using? I'll make sure to figure out the *right* set of bookmarks to be looking at. In the mean time though I'll make this easy on you, even though Andy really already gave you all the right answers, here's your shortcut:
  10. Well I ordered the cheaper/lower 260 cfm version and am just gonna try it out and report back! Already have the zip tie holes for my current PC fan that ought to be good enough for at least a trial run! Stay tuned. . . !
  11. Bumping my super old thread as this topic just came up in another one, so updates! - 12 years now and my computer fan/bearings have not yet failed! Note my car does remain garaged, but it's been driven in the rain plenty of times. I think the area is pretty well shielded from rain, but I bet if the car lived outside, it would have probably failed long ago. - To anyone considering this route now however, I think I have found an even better replacement fan option: a 5.2" ~300 CFM Spal pusher intended for motorcycle radiators! Will probably get one to try in the name of science to confirm it works! Found 2 flavors so far: https://www.amazon.com/Spal-30103013-Paddle-Blade-Pusher/dp/B009OBP182 or https://www.ebay.com/itm/Spal-fan-5-2-12volt-pusher-HD-waterproof-for-ATV-Motorcycles-Trans-Cooler/114159255729
  12. So no pictures handy unfortunately but my blower died about 10 years ago and I didn't feel like tearing out the center console and heater box. And since the fan cage was a bit broken and chewed up anyway. . . I got in there with some diagonal cutters and clipped off the whole fan. I then got the biggest, baddest 5.5" computer fan I could find, slid it into place, and just ziptied it onto the hole on the heater box. Been working great for 10 years! I mean not as much airflow as the more powerful stock fan, but still good enough to defrost the windshield on a cold morning! If it ever does die on me, there's a pretty good looking little Spal fan for motorcycle radiators that I think would make an even better replacement: https://www.amazon.com/Spal-30103013-Paddle-Blade-Pusher/dp/B009OBP182
  13. A cylinder only needs three things to fire: Fuel/air mixture, compression, and spark. Wet plug indicates you're *probably* getting proper fuel, but on sidedrafts since each cylinder gets its own jets can't hurt to pull them to check. Compression yeah is best checked with a compression tester, but I think those are pretty easy to rent from Autozone if you don't have one. Spark is usually the culprit, I'd guess maybe 7 times out of 10 anyway. And since the other 3 cylinders are good you can rule out the points, condenser, coil, rotor, and timing. Quick visual of the cap will tell you whether that's the problem or not, and then it's just down to swapping around wires and plugs.
  14. Check and see if there are other versions/options of the bookmarks in you pdf. I've noticed some of them have ALL the various bookmark files and so you need to hunt for the right one unfortunately. Let me know which one you're using and I'll help you out!
  15. Though fairly poor at circuit design, the German designers were still clever enough to help you out here with some a very well thought out scheme. Here's the list of 'tricks' that it's really good to be aware of: 1.) All solid brown wires go to ground. 2.) All solid red wires go to the battery. 3.) All other solid-colored wires are UN-fused, as in they connect to the 'hot' side of the fuse panel. 4.) All striped (2-color) wires are FUSE protected, and run from the protected side of the fuse panel to the respective device they control. 5.) Not sure about ALL vintages here, but ignition key usually has red, green and purple wires. Red (fused red-striped) are 'always hot', Green (/green striped) are hot in run and start positions, and Purple (/purple striped) are hot in run and accessory positions. Hope this helps!
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