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About AustrianVespaGuy

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  1. Just to be clear, that's true, it can't, so don't get them mixed up! But the return pressure should be almost nothing (as it's just open into the tank at the back end), so maybe like 2 psi, which if fine as long as the plastic line is still in good condition.
  2. Hi Martin, Sorry if that was unclear, I AM using the original plastic supply line for the fuel return. This is OK because the return is all low pressure after the fuel pressure regulator back to the tank. The high pressure supply portion includes high pressure FI rated rubber line from the pump to the original steel (return) line, and another section of FI rate rubber hose from the steel line to the fuel rail. Hope this helps!
  3. Wow, the Montreal, now THAT is one heck of a beautiful car. Must have really been something else to see one of those running around the track! Sorry for the sidebar, now back to the original booster topic. . .
  4. I want to say there's a hole in the rear cross member of the booster bracket that positions the brake light switch directly behind where the pedal bellcrank linkage meets the booster pushrod. Probably a threaded hole and then a locknut so that the switch position is adjustable. If it's a later booster bracket than I'd be pretty confident that it should definitely be there and hopefully fairly obvious to spot based on that description, so good luck, looks great so far!
  5. You're more than welcome @RogL, glad to know this is being helpful to people! If you happen to run across any stock wiring that's *different* to what I have shown above, let me know the exact year/model of your car and I'll be glad to help try and uncover the yearly variation differences!
  6. Well, after a nice chat with the guys at Top End Performance, I'm waiting on a quote from them for a TWM/Borla throttle body and all the various other bits of hardware in order to try this! (Jenvey TBs apparently don't have vacuum nipples on them!?!) Assuming I decide to go through with it, I'll probably start a blog for the project. So thanks everyone for your input!
  7. That one might have actually been a chipmunk, @TobyB! I looked it over this morning and while I really like the idea, I'm a little concerned there just isn't that much 'meat' in the runners near the mounting flanges, but not saying it's impossible! There's two tapped bosses in the top of the manifold that might actually work pretty well, but after shopping around on their website a little more, I think the starting point is just going to be running a choke cable to the extra cable fitting on this Jenvy linkage: https://store.jenvey.co.uk/throttle-bodies-and-components/linkages/tb-linkage-kit-double-cld2-tbo1
  8. Well crap, thanks Jim, guess that puts me back to modifying the manifold in order to do it the 'right' way. I'll take a close look at it this weekend to see if there's an easy/minimalist way to accomplish that. Thanks again guys!
  9. SORT of; it certainly was for anything with a plenum manifold, but tbh I really don't know how any OEMs used to do it with the few rare ITB setups. Anyone know how an E30 M3 or E34 M5 handles cold idle speed? In modern cars with drive by wire, it's all done with the actual throttle plate itself, since it's controlled by the ECU. What I need is the 'in-between' solution, if one exists!
  10. Yep, primarily! I don't really expect it to be as good as a normal ITB setup, and may eventually go that route, but as I already HAVE the manifold, yeah I pretty much just want to try it and see if I can make it work. I have been thinking about IAC some, but it's still rather last on my list. If I decide to try this, I'll want to get it done and driving first, and then if good enough to be 'keepable' I'll go back and work on implementing IAC. I've had two ideas for this: 1.) MS covers all the cold enrichment easily, so it's *just* a question of getting in additional air while cold. The simplest solution will probably be to put in a simple, old fashioned choke cable that I can use to just pull the throttle open a little during warmup, and then push it off and let the throttles fully close once warm. 2.) In my current setup, I have a working idle control stepper motor, and MS allows full control over the stepper position based on temperature. Assuming I can figure out a way to mount it, shouldn't I be able to use a similar stepper motor to just push on the linkage, as opposed to pushing the air control pintle in/out?. . .
  11. Thanks Jim! Knew I could count on you! MS had pretty good accel/decel enrichment settings, so it'll take done trial and error but should be able to get that dialed in I think. Is that the biggest difference between mpi and tpi? Just accounting for the increased runner length during transitory throttle? And yes the Lynx pairs 1&4 and 2&3, which I think is why this will probably work, as oppressed to something with a Siamese port configuration, that I expect world be MUCH more difficult.
  12. Hey for any followers, after reviewing some recent datalogs I've been surprised to discover that up at peak power, I'm starting to push 100% duty cycle on my 19# injectors and as such am going to replace them with 21# injectors instead. My car has 9.5:1 pistons, and E12 head, and 284 cam. I didn't really think this would be good for much more than 130HP but apparently the engine IS wanting that much fuel, so I'm obliging! But a word to the wise for anyone else running the yellow-top injectors, you might want to see what your duty cycle looks like to make sure you're not running up against the same wall I am!
  13. I guess you should try to not 'use' those bumpers too much now! Look great though, enjoy! And @esty, price summary is in the last pic.
  14. So I'm getting the urge to go play with induction again, and this is an idea I've had for quite some time now and I might be getting closer to pulling the trigger on the experiment. But first I wanted to garner some of the opinions and ideas for overcoming a few of the hurtles from the rest on the tinkering group here. @TobyB, @Chamonix72, @stevek @Dudeland, looking at you guys! As for the starting point, I already have MS2 w/EDIS running great with the 318i manifold, but I also still have the old Lynx manifold languishing in a box. I think I'd like to try getting a single-sidedraft style throttle body for it and seeing how well I can get Lynx-EFI running! I realize the challenges involve (more on that shortly), but figure if I really can't get it to work I can either go back to the 318 manifold, or 'continue on' with a second TB to the conventional dual ITB setup. But as I have the Lynx, don't have a dual manifold, and don't think it's been done yet, I want to give this a shot first. Challenges: Assuming I'll just lose idle air control. I think most with ITB setups don't have this either, and I think I'm OK with the loss of this functionality. Hopefully no big deal. IAC stepper motor wiring harness will just get tied up out of the way. MAP signal - again a common issue for ITBs but I think most get it to work just fine. As there's a vacuum port near each throttle plate on most bodies, I figure I can use one for the FPR and one for the MAP signal to MS. With two cylinders tied together to each, my guess is this will be a 'better' signal than that from an individual runner, and I might not need to even bother with tying the two together or a small accumulator. Brake booster clearance - fortunately Jenvey makes a REALLY short TB, giving me much more room to play with air horns/filters/etc., so this would probably be a good choice: https://store.jenvey.co.uk/throttle-bodies-and-components/throttle-bodies/dcoe-style-30mm-long/tbody-dcoe-40-50mm-vshort-tssxxi Injectors - Here's the real crux of things, and the one that might prevent things from ever being quite optimal. As I'll be feeding two cylinders with just one injector, they'll need be pretty big, essentially double conventional port injectors. I think the 'right' size would be these 42lb/hr green top injectors: https://fuelinjectorconnection.com/collections/ford-car-rebuilt-injectors/products/fic-rebuilt-ford-42-lb-green-top Is it as simple as 'double' the port injector size? My current 19s are great, so I'm assuming anything in the 39-42# range ought to be just right, but 39ers are much tougher to find than these 42ers. Setup up as 2 squirts/cycle simultaneous, I'd get one squirt on each injector every 360 degrees. As the Lynx pairs the cylinders that are 360 degrees apart for me, this SHOULD work just great without needing to go deeper into injection timing: http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/configure.htm With the large injectors my pulse width at idle will start getting quite low though, so I anticipate some issues getting idle tuned properly. Are most TBI injectors low impedance? I'm guessing they are, but I don't really want to mess with going that route. But as I'm not that familiar with TB injection, are there other parameters (wall-wetting, etc.) that I need to learn more about to take into consideration? Here's where I'm particularly looking for some additional guidance. Thanks guys!
  15. Mint! But just because I think the lighter shades look better on the smaller 2002s. Of the darker colors, I my opinion is that Jade is the nicest of the dark greens.
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