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AustrianVespaGuy

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About AustrianVespaGuy

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  1. No, relays don't care what the load is, and it seems that you wired it correctly, so well done! But the relay certainly isn't your problem. Yes, I think those bulbs are just dead. Sometimes the filament can still look OK even though it's burnt through somewhere.
  2. If you have an alligator clip, you can quickly test it by clipping one end to the metal body at the base of the bulb and the other end to the engine block or chassis.
  3. They're H1 bulbs, right? If they'r not simply burnt out, then check that they're grounded through the bulb base/housing to the chassis. My guess is your light housings have plastic mountings or are somehow mounted such that they're isolated from the body sheet metal and thus you have no path to ground. Doesn't sound like the relay is your issue. When you push your green switch, the relay clicks and you get your 12.2V reading at the wire coming from the relay/going to the bulbs, correct? Means the only things left in the circuit are the filaments and ground path. . . Also, if your interested, I have a very detailed article on 2002 lights wiring here:
  4. It's the rust that's the concerning part. I'd even be dubious about the 'rod knock,' these cars are not at all prone to bottom end problems, probably more likely it's just a broken motor mount or something, but of course no guarantee. But yeah, sheet metal condition trumps EVERYTHING on 2002s!
  5. No bad advice in this thread so far, so I'll try not to reiterate too much, but I'll add a few things to the conversation. Along with Healey's advice, I'd suggest 2 AWG wire size for the LONG 6-foot-ish cable run from the back up to the engine bay. But for shorter runs, say the battery ground to the strut tower, that 4 AWG wire is probably OK for just a foot or so. I'll also second Steve's advice that great short cables are inexpensive at Autozone/similar. I'm in favor of the Odyssey AGM batteries under the back seat so as not to clutter up the trunk (what I run), but good reasons NOT to go this route are that you already have holes drilled in you strut towers for the rear battery/brace OR if you don't need the room in the engine bay, the much-smaller-much-lighter Odyssey battery can easily just go in the stock spot too. All worth considering while you're redoing battery wiring stuff though for sure. As for fuses, they're great safety devices, but a few words of caution; if you add in fuses, make sure you do a good, careful job of it so you're not just inducing additional failure points into your electrical system. Every cut/splice adds to this risk. Also as Toby indicated, I prefer to fuse individual loads rather than the whole system. Right now if you get a short somewhere and blow that 50A fuse, well your entire electrical system goes down and you don't really know where to start looking for the fault. So a fuse in JUST the starter +12V cable and another in JUST the alternator output are the smarter way to go about trying to fuse-protect the high current stuff, in my opinion. You'll want to figure out where those 4 wires are all going though, some of them might go to systems (like the lights) that are already fused further downstream, in which case you DON'T want to add more fuses, see my argument above about additional failure points. Last thing on this, and some may argue it, but just like the factory setup, I don't like to run a fuse in the ignition circuit. Make sure those connections are all very good and safe, and avoid the risk of getting stuck on the side of the road not realizing your car won't start because the coil voltage is too low because of a corroded fuse connection.
  6. Go to the Doorman Help section of your local Autozone/Advanced and look for this little package (Doorman P/N 59207) of assorted throttle return springs: http://www.finddormanhelp.com/Product?ProductID=1578 They're various lengths and stiffness but all are about right for the 2002 linkage, so you should be able to do a little bit of 'tuning' to get your preferred return stiffness!
  7. This is PRECISELY why I love 2002s so much: because all the owners tend to THINK LIKE THIS!!! Very nicely engineered!
  8. A quick word of experience on all of this, when I rebuilt my engine I bought a set of ARP hardware instead of BMW hardware (price and availability thing), BUT the ARP bolts only come in 10mm lengths, so the crank bearing bolts were 80 instead of 75mm. . . and they bottomed out in the block! (They actually plasti-gauged fine cold, but I'd start to loose oil pressure as things warmed up, took me forever to figure out!) I suspect I also have somewhat shallow block threads, as I think others have used the 80mm bolts without this issue, but something to be careful of for anyone who uses aftermarket hardware!!!
  9. I'm sure Jim is right that MAF is the clear winner for accurate fuel delivery over a wide elevation range, since it's the only thing that directly measures exactly what you care about, e.g. the amount of intake air. That said, if you would rather go speed-density than MAF, this is the sensor I would want if I were doing a lot of up-and-down mountain driving. (The Appalachians here don't really count as mountains and aren't tall enough to make a noticeable difference for me without any baro correction, so I can't vouch for this based on actual experience, but were I fortunate enough to live out West, yeah, it's what I'd be running). https://www.diyautotune.com/product/mapdaddy-4-bar-map-sensor-with-barometric-correction/
  10. Oh, and I might have just had an idea: what are your HIGH beam bulbs? Also LED? The way the 2002 is wired, the headlight relay coil is grounded THROUGH the high beam filaments - this is why the low beams turn off whenever you turn on the high beams. With the high beams off, the purple/white wire should be very close to ground/0V. But when you turn them on, that wire now has 12V, and this also turns the low beam relay back off. But that ground path for the relay was intended to go through the high beam incandescent filaments, so if those are now LED circuitry, yeah it would do something screwy/bad with respect to the relay. . .
  11. They both drop to 8V because there is some sort of load in the circuit which pulls the voltage of the whole thing down; remember they're both supplied by that same solid yellow wire. Clearly there's something wrong, so here's how you go about finding it: 1.) Unplug both headlight bulbs. 2.) Recheck voltage at all the points you previously measured. With the lights switched on, is everything now at 12.5V? -> If 12.5V, then there's something wrong with the bulbs. Check them each individually to see if it's just one or both. -> If still 8V, then the issue is not with the bulbs and instead with the wiring. Start by unplugging either the yl/bk or yl/bl wires from the back of the fuse box to see if you can isolate the problem to one of those wires.
  12. Lol, yes indeed, that's the 8-bolt flywheel hub of the crank we're looking at there. I never realized that crank was so darn symmetrical! Might want to double check the piston orientations too at this point, just in case!
  13. What are the voltage readings with the regular halogen or sealed beam bulbs in there instead of the LEDs? Same or different?
  14. In my experience, this primarily has to do with the quality of the installation. Modern solid state electronics just don't really really up and fail these days, and even poor/cracked solder joints I don't think I've ever seen unless it was on something 15+ years old that clearly went through a lot of heat cycles. The two things that have stopped me on the road in the 10 years I've been running megasquirt? 1.) A broken alternator grounding cable and 2.) A spade fuse connector that (after properly soldering to the end of the wire) I didn't get pushed all the way into the housing so that the barb clicked into place, and with the help of gravity it eventually worked it's way off.
  15. You surely know my vote already, but since you put up the poll, I'm chiming in anyway in favor of Megasquirt! I'd even argue that the software is quite a bit above the 'home brew' level at this point in time; at least with regard to MSExtra code anyway. And frankly for your installation I don't think you even *need* MS3 (unless you want it), but I'm pretty sure either MS2 with the v3.57 board or Microsquirt with a 4-bar MAP sensor to handle the boost would cover all your needs also (afaik they all have optional circuits for real-time barometric correction): https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/megasquirt-systems-compared/ Based on your experience with the Holley setup, I'm completely confident in your abilities to work with the installation/datalogging/tuning of any one of the aftermarket EFI systems.


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