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About AustrianVespaGuy

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  1. Things you love should be named. I don't name stuff I don't care much about, but all the stuff I love I have named, including all of my cars. Genders can very, depending on the personality of the particular car and/or car/driver bond. Mine are: 2002 - Asterix (as in the Gallic comic book character, male) E30 - Beatertrix (track tramp, female) M5 - Abraxas (Steed of Helios, male) Wife's Forester - Xena (female) Odyssey minivan - Midnight (female) Vespa - (Idefix, Asterix's dog, male) Clearly one day I need an Obelix, but no car has struck me as a good 'fit' for that name yet! I also name my computers, traditionally after Tolkien characters. Desktop is Gandalf, HTPC is Bilbo, laptop is Legolas.
  2. So fiberglass can work well for repairing small rust spots AS LONG AS YOU CLEAN OUT ALL THE RUST FIRST!!! You need to really get in there and cut/sand/strip things to get rid of ALL the rust to the point that you ONLY have good clean metal left around your hole. Then you can use POR15 to protect the metal and fiberglass to patch the hole. But if you just slap some fiberglass over the top of rusty metal, then yeah you're in for a much worse time on down the road. . .
  3. OOPS! Sorry, that does relieve you of points, but for total perfection, you still *should* have a capacitor/condenser between the positive side of the coil and ground for flyback/noise suppression. But, certainly not the cause of your woes, so carry on!
  4. MAP torch, Mike! Time to ditch that old propane! Multimeter is a key one I forgot though, good call. If you don't have one already, I REALLY like this one, as it's 25x scale puts automotive 12V systems smack dab in the middle for easy usage! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007IEFC8G
  5. Regardless of the specific car I'm working on, here's the short list of some random tools that I've found indispensable and probably would have HUGE regrets if I hadn't bought them long ago: - SIX-POINT (NOT 12-point) metric box end wrenches (mine are craftsman, but others available) for max grip when breaking 'old bolts' free. 12-point sockets/socket wrench for holding or once broken free are fine. - MAP torch. Just get one and then thank me later. - For suspension work a good ball-joint separator (please no pickle forks) though funnily enough my favorite one is actually cheap from harbor freight: https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html - 1/2" drive breaker bar - Lots of 3/8" extensions - Ratcheting wrenches are nice - Ball end allen wrenches: https://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-38099-GoldGuard-Ballpoint-L-Wrench/dp/B000E7ZQIA/ - Flare wrenches (as mentioned above) for brake lines. If you find a job on a 2002 that you CAN'T get done with the above list, post back what it is and I'll probably remember what it takes, but I think that plus basic screwdrivers should cover just about 95% of the whole car right there.
  6. Points&condenser, points&condenser, points&condenser. . .
  7. That's. . . interesting. In my experience most 2002 temperature gauges are actually quite accurate, but I agree your reading sounds pretty far off. The center (3 o'clock/horizontal) position should be right about 90C, which is pretty close to your 190F. Red zone shouldn't start until 115C/240F! My general rule of thumb is anywhere between 1 and 4 o'clock is OK, but I don't like to see the needle go outside of that range. I get exact temperature reported from a second calibrated temperature sensor in the coolant divider via Megasquirt, so my gauge agrees with that quite well, so I KNOW it's all peachy. Are you sure you have the *correct* sensor in there? Any grounds or corroded connecting issues that might be causing this? You can always pull the sensor our and stick it in a pot of boiling water; that's guaranteed to be EXACTLY 100C (at sea level), so there the needle should be at about the 2/3 up (1 o'clock) position! (Image borrowed form @02Les from another post)
  8. Putting a cage in a street car is a hard pass for me. I'm of the opinion cages (and *most* roll bars for that matter), should ONLY be paired with helmeted driving. . . In the world of safety, 'go big or go home' generally applies. Bars, 6-points, fixed backs, helmet, and HANs for the track, but stock seats, 3-points, and nothing to whack you noggin on for the street!
  9. Yes, exactly, but then it also CLOSES again as things drop back down to/below that temperature, so really what happens after a while is you reach a steady-state condition where the thermostat is partially open, maybe opening a bit more to allow more flow through the radiator when going uphill (and the coolant leaving the block gets hotter), then closing down a bit more and diverting most coolant back to the block and only a *little* to the radiator when going back down the hill. Which is why at the end of the day, it's job is to keep your engine with reasonable consistency at THAT specified inlet temperature. The coolant temperature leaving the block will vary (based on load) and yes, whatever excess heat comes from the engine coolant that goes through the open thermostat then gets rejected through the radiator. So you pick the thermostat based on what inlet temperature you want your engine to run at (I personally like 80-85C or so) and then make sure your radiator is good enough to get rid of that excess heat, say 90C that's comes out with that hard uphill work, and get it back down to your target 80C to go back in to do it's cooling job again.
  10. Oooh, so as the owner of an E39 M5, I can attest it is an utterly awesome car, but COMPLETELY different from the 2002 in about every way, and the 2002 is unquestionably more *fun* to drive. But piling the family in the car to hop on the interstate and drive into town for a day to go to the zoo or something, that's where the M5 absolutely shines. But if you don't need the back seat space or are mostly driving IN town, then it'd be kind of a waste, so that one really depends on your use-case. ^Yup, I'm proud to say all THREE of my cars made the recent C&D GOAT list! 2002, 325iS, and E39 M5, booya!
  11. A bicycle pump can also work nicely for popping out the pistons if you don't have an air compressor. Also allows you to work them out more slowly/controlled than even regulated compressors, albeit with more elbow grease!
  12. Quick soapbox with initial disclaimer: I actually really, really like electric cars. Want one for our next car, probably not too far off. But I think the 'no/low maintenance' claims for them are grossly overstated! Sure a NEW car needs very little maintenance compared to an older car anyway, regardless of powerplant. But what happens as they age? Thinking on all the work I've done on my not-so-new-but-modern-ish cars in about the last year, here's the list, and I'll bold the ones that an electric car WOULDN'T need: Oil changes Window regulator Door lock actuator Cabin air filters Timing belt Seat adjustment tracks/motor Stereo Front suspension Rear suspension Transmission oil* (less frequent, but Teslas still have it!) Coolant change (battery and power electronics still need it!) Brakes Pedal bushings Door seals Another front suspension job Another stereo job Chasing rattles. . . An oil change is so little effort it hardly counts, so really the ONLY big maintenance savings I could expect to see in 6-8 years of ownership of an EV would seemingly be a timing belt change. And even that goes away when compared to an IC engine with a timing chain. . . You may note I don't have spark plugs on the list. I changed them in the 2002 this year, but not in any of the more modern cars. Hell, the Odyssey only calls for a 105,000 mile replacement interval! Again, not knocking EVs at all, still like 'em, but my experience tells me that the low maintenance claims are overhyped, as all new vehicles are super low maintenance anyway, and then all the same non-driveline stuff is still there, and will still break and cause the usual fixing-aggravation a few years down the road. Also, I'm totally on board with ~150HP being the ideal power target for a 2002
  13. I'll admit my bias up front: I'm not a fan of turbos, *especially* in 2002s. Much of the beauty of the cars (for me) is in their simple straight-forwardness, easy maintenance, and spacious room in the engine bay for tinkering. Granted I DID put EFI in mine, but that doesn't clutter up the engine bay any and while it does increase the complexity a bit, I'd argue that's completely offset by the increase in reliability. I don't think the same can be claimed for forced induction. And while I'll agree a turbo is a pretty obvious route to MOAH POWER, I contend that 2002s don't really NEED that much more power to be great cars. It's their light-weight, well-balanced, chuckability that make them so much fun, and a well sorted naturally aspirated M10 (with a good suspension) is just perfect for this. Now, I'm also FULLY on board with anyone that enjoys modifying their own car to their own tastes, so if a high powered turbo engine (or electric conversion, or a small block V8, or whatever!) is what you want, then go for it, and I'll support you! Oh, and one final thought, my track car is an E30 and while it's stock drivetrain is still fine for me and my purposes, I do think that an E30 would make a better base for a FI build than a 2002.
  14. And least you're not trying to bring any 75 or 76s there! 🤣 Sorry, couldn't resist! Stupid Cali emissions ridiculousness!
  15. I recommend attempting to rebuild first. You MAY get unlucky and find a badly scored piston and/or cylinder (I did one time), and at that point it's worth throwing in the towel and just getting a rebuilt replacement. But if the metal walls are all good, much easier/cheaper/faster/more satisfying to rebuild them yourself, and then they'll be just as good (if not better)!
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