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Happy Face

Kugelfischer
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Everything posted by Happy Face

  1. Happy Face
    14 lb.ft. what exactly does the +2.9 mean?
  2. Happy Face
    Can anyone confirm proper torque spec on these six 13mm hex bolts for the diff? IMG_1321.HEIC
  3. Happy Face
    its turning out to be a challenge to find the correct OEM alternator pulley, the one that has a 'recessed' front bolt. My current Bosch replacement alternator has the front bolt sticking out and hitting the cooling fan. This is for my 1972 2002. OEM alternators have gotten so expensive. All I need is the pulley!
  4. Happy Face
    when's the next H-town gathering?
  5. Happy Face

    2584954

    Happy Face posted a vehicle in Registry

    This car was purchased in Nevada in May of 2003 and moved to Texas where it was kept for a little over three years. It was sent to Coupe King in late 2006 for a complete frame-off restoration, but was unfortunately found to have a damaged frame from an accident that occurred early in its life. It was judged that the frame damage was cost-prohibitive to repair. The car was then stripped for parts and the body was scrapped by Coupe King in December of 2006. While in Texas from 2003 to 2006 the car was aptly named "Happy Face" because its paint job looked like "Happy Face Red". The Nevada owner had painted the car in a 'taxi-cab' motif with bright red paint and a white roof. If it were not for it's damaged frame rail, the car would have been saved and restored.
  6. Happy Face

    2581641

    Happy Face posted a vehicle in Registry

    More information about "2581641"
    Happy Face (2581641) is a full frame-off restoration by Coupe King. It was done for the current owner in 2007 and at that time was transformed from it's original Sahara color to Toyota Absolutely Red (3PO) as an attempt to match Verona Red in a modern paint formulation. 3PO is slightly more 'red' and less 'orange' than Verona. This car is the second version of Happy Face and is technically Happy Face II. The original Happy Face was nicknamed by a friend, who when first seeing it, proclaimed "that's Happy Face Red!" Happy Face II has undergone minor modifications and improvements since 2007 but largely remains as a stock car.
  7. Happy Face
    Howard, are these plug and play? Any wiring mods required? thanks Dave
  8. Happy Face
    If it’s still available I’ll take it! Will send pm Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  9. Happy Face
    Is the brake booster available? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  10. Happy Face
    Andrew, that’s a really clean looking setup. Is that an Ireland intake manifold, linkage kit too?
  11. Happy Face
    The answer to this question might be buried somewhere in the many postings already here but I didn't see it. What about the throttle cable itself coming from the accelerator pedal. I've got the overhead webers now that haver the mechanical rod which links to the side of the overhead carb (32/36), but I understand I'll need to replace all of that with a cable pull system to move the throttle on the dual webers (and linkage). Are there some tips or guidance to set that part up?
  12. Happy Face
    hung out with about 70 or so O2 brothers and sisters in Eureka Springs Arkansas!
  13. Happy Face
    kudos Steve. Thanks for bringing this platform together. Its been enormously helpful!
  14. Happy Face
    damn, I hate welding
  15. Happy Face
    Nooooo!!!!!! ;-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. Happy Face
    got my sync link in the mail.... not much to it....what now? ?
  17. Happy Face
    Carl. Thanks. I did see your article and learned a great deal from reading it (especially your explanation of wire coloring codes). Unfortunately my brain struggles with electric schematics so it will take additional study ;-), which I will do! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. Happy Face
    sent you a PM Mike
  19. Happy Face
    live and learn - I've had this car since 2003, still climbing the learning curve. So confirmed, my 'early' car has no headlight relays at all. The low's are fused I'm assuming. I'll take a close look at the existing switch and will begin looking into adding a more reliable relay system for both low's and high's thanks chaps for your help! -dave
  20. Happy Face
    A few pictures from further back in engine bay Yes, I just have two relays visible. I had assumed one was for low beams, but perhaps not Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  21. Happy Face
    thanks for the help - good information. What's interesting is after the car has been on the road for a while, say 45 minutes, the headlights will come on.... mystery...but after the car is parked and cools off, then starting up car and trying headlights... no light that rectangular regulator is no longer being used so I removed it . The brown ground wires were a bit loose to that connector... I tightened them up and it didn't make a difference on the lights I pulled off the relays and checked the connectors.... they 'seem' clean. But I haven't tried the 'click' test.... need the second person for that (espouse) I hope its not the main light switch, that's a pain and kind of expensive to replace (I've seen them for $175)
  22. Happy Face
    My electrical woes just continue. - the latest, the headlights, low and high, do not come on. All other lights are working. Plus I can pull the stalk lever and the high beams do come on. But I can drive like that pulling the lever to keep lights on This is a ‘72 car restored 11 or so years ago. Not sure if this is a relay problem or an issue with the headlight switch. A few pics of the existing relays in the car. Any helpful tips or hints would be appreciated. Thanks - Dave Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  23. Happy Face
    fantastic.... that explains it and with some additional digging I found some previous posts about this. I've got a Stahl header system so probably no real place to attach a 'winter' hose. I think I'll just keep it in the summer position and try to get some 'cold' air into the air intake. Thankfully we don't get really cold days down here! Hoping the cold air intake will help on hot Texas days.
  24. Happy Face
    I went to the parts bin and reinstalled the summer/winter air box piece back on, with the traditional air filter cover (sitting on top of a Weber 32/36). The manual shows a second flexible hose going straight down from that box, presumably to the bottom area of the radiator, not really sure where that hose goes but it would suck up air in the 'winter' position. The top hose fits right into the air filter housing (I'm presuming). The manual says to keep the air box in the 'summer' position for temps above 50 degrees F. That's pretty much 365 days a year here in south Texas. I like the idea of 'cold' air going into the carb, like the original design, although not really sure if it makes a huge difference Again, still don't know though where the bottom 'winter' hose goes to or if it just drops down to the bottom of the engine bay. thanks in advance for any ideas/tips - dave
  25. Happy Face
    My greatest fear is that when I die my wife will sell my O2 for what I told her I spent on it .... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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