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TobyB

Kugelfischer
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Everything posted by TobyB

  1. fixed that for ya. 2011 Leaf, practically speaking. t
  2. That was probably rust- which will bond the shoe to the drum if you give it half a chance. t
  3. Now THAT sounds like a lot of fun! With carbs, it's all 'bell crank this' and 'offset pivot that' and 'it's better than it was' is usually good enough, by the time you've got hours into making a linkage. Apparently, it's pretty easy to tune in MS43, but my daily came to me with a DInan map, so I just cheat and paste that in when I'm in another car. Not unlike the carb linkage, huh? t
  4. Me too, Tom. I made my cars work that way because that was the emissions way, and I then jacked around the used distributors I had to make it work best. So- unported vacuum it is, in most cases. See, Rob? Good question! t if you can't admit you make mistakes, then maybe it's time to crawl under a rock and hide.
  5. Well, the ENGINE had an aircon compressor on it. Are there 2 holes in the firewall that don't have hoses going through them? That would be the giveaway for the chassis... Nope, no problem at all in getting rid of the bracket and the pulley. There are several sizes of pulley, though, so your belt selection may take a few tries. t
  6. Sadly, those old flooded lead- acid batteries that have such a miserable energy density also 'reuse and recycle' at a very high percentage. So when you take your golf cart batteries to Dyno and exchange them for 'rebuilt' batteries, you're contributing very little pollution to the planet, despite hauling around #400 of lead and acid on the green, two pretty unpleasant substances. The cases are unsealed and reused, the acid reprocessed (mostly just filtered) and the lead plates are resmelted IF needed. Net waste, a few pounds, energy cost quite low. The lithium 18650's in a Tesla, not so much. We cut one (an 18650, not a Tesla) apart in the shop years ago, and to get such a high density, the thing is packed full. Mechanically, it's not designed to come apart, and once you get it apart, it doesn't lend itself to easy mechanical separation at all. They can't be 'smelted' as they'll just burn- once they catch fire, you may as well use the heat, because there's no stopping that. A fireman said recently- "about the only thing that could burn this place down is 4 Teslas parked nose to tail." Used lithium batteries are very expensive to re-purpose safely- each cell has to be monitored, since each used cell has a different capacity. Overcharging or over- depleting one cell can make it go Sony, and then the whole pack joins in from the intense heat. I've been working on this- it's fun, but not trivial. Tesla's larger 2170 is pretty much the same as a 18650, but no idea if scale will help at all with disassembly, or if maybe (yeah, I'm not optimistic) they're built to be dismantled, as Dyno's lead- acids are. Last I heard they are trying an even- larger 4680, but as diameter increases, cooling problems exponentiate*, so given that an S would overheat its pack after 3 laps, I skeptic from my couch. I suspect in a few more years, it's going to become a real solid waste issue. I also suspect some manufacturers are going to prove to be really messy (Tesla) and others, not so bad, as the larger Toyota, Mercedes and Nissan prismatic cells may be better, from a reuse and recycling standpoint. They are certainly easier to re- purpose and reshuffle, as the larger, square cell size makes monitoring and re- packing very much easier, and the square shape helps with liquid cooling, as well. I'm a huge electric car fan- but sugar- coating them isn't doing anyone any favors. They're a big step forward, but that doesn't mean that there aren't real problems with them. We're a bit more experienced now than we were with petrol engined cars, so mitigating the problems early makes so much more sense than blindly dashing in with moustaches waxed and 6- shooters blazing. They're never going to work for everything and everyone, and with significant luck and hard work, eventually they'll be a stepping stone to something even better (Mr. Fusion(tm)?) I'm not holding my breath, because trains were far better in almost all regards, and yet, who wants to ride a train? Oh, wait- if there was one, I would... But they didn't make rich people richer easy enough, so they were 'depreciated'. Thank you for listening to my Tedex Talkex. t *I just affixed that up. It made me happy.
  7. make sure the new bullet is made out of billet. those hypereutectic bullets tend not to expand enough to really seal up good.... t would rebuild a spare engine. For multiple reasons.
  8. only in the E30, and then with MS43... so yes, but no, not what you mean. I really like DBC myself, just because I'm old, kurmudgeonly, and am used to being able to make 'driver's demand' rather than 'driver's wish' (the German version of 'pedal position' as soon as the direct connection between airflow and pedal was broken) t DriveByCable
  9. Did the leaking brake cylinders soak the shoes? That will tend to make the shoes sticky. t
  10. Awfully quiet, methinks... ;)= t
  11. +1: as long as you monitor it, it should be OK. A long time ago on that same system (on a different car) I remember that altering the coolant temperature sensor's input to the DME was also a way to 'trim' fuel delivery. As well as fuel pressure, of course. t
  12. It's been a while since I messed with this, but what I recall with a healthy stock vacuum advance distributor is that the all- in advance at idle with manifold vacuum is awfully high. Ported vacuum lets you set idle in the 8-12 degree range, which is a little soft, but quite smooth. You then do hard pulls from off- idle with appropriate (15 rising to 3oish) advance, but the vacuum pod then lets you cruise at 2500+ with 35- 40+ degrees of advance, which gives a nice, early spark for popping off a really lean light cruise mixture. There are a million ways to do it, but that's what I recall. Timing and mixture interact, so running richer means you probably don't want that much advance anyway, for maximum power. t
  13. Seriously needs more downforts. sheesh. With that much drag, I suspect my EP car is faster at the end of most straights... t
  14. ...but my car doesn't look like an anal suppository, and most electrics tend to... or the face of something that's just had an anal suppository administered. What's funny is to watch the newest generations of ICE cars trend toward that same look... BTW, I tend to agree- BEV is not a 100% solution. But a 72% solution now is far better than what we HAVE been doing. t was once quite excited about an electric Focus until it turned out to cost more than an RS and not actually have the real- world range to do his 60 mile freeway commute in the winter...
  15. 0.027" doesn't seem terrible- is the bore right at 89.00? t
  16. Exactly. But why can't it just look like a car? t
  17. Well, I've been wrong before... t does agree that a sprayed sound deadening would probably work better. But was also assuming a proper seal and encapsulation, first, not just 'paint'.
  18. I saw one of those... things... on the road the other day. It looked so awkward and ill- proportioned my brain went 'awww... poor thing'. Most notably, the wheels make it look like it's from 1962, all tucked up in there. Also saw a DeLorean recently. While it also looks stainlessly odd, it also looks... interesting. Not pretty- but not ugly, either, and certainly not pitiable. I wish Tesla could ditch Elmo and start making interesting cars. I think they've pretty much saturated the automotive suppository market... t
  19. I put sound deadening back on street cars. It really helps, as does a jute layer under the carpet. t
  20. oh- how's the main chain tensioner? Not super likely, but easy to rule out... t
  21. I heard a sound on the internet... I'm usually no good at those, but that has a double 'clack' to it that makes me think valvetrain. As in, eccentrics with really flat spots, maybe? Or plugged oil hole(s) in the rocker shaft(s)? Exhaust gasket leaks are usually a 'snap', so that's prolly not it. The 'unhook a spark plug' is usually really good at finding a bad rod bearing, too. Rods sound more like someone hitting the block with a 32 oz hammer, once, and yours sounds like an 8 oz hammer, twice... I'd lash rockers to zero clearance one at a time and see if that shuts anything up... t
  22. Squirt harder. Squirt backwards. If that fails, drill out the plugs and mechanically ream out the passages. I've had to do that on agricultural carbs that were fed corn soup... t
  23. I don't like the edges of those zip- tie tabs. They're sharp... even if the cable survives, your knuckles will bleed. I've always used either zip tie cradles (can be popped on or screwed) or those annoying nylon loops that screw on. Both have very rounded cable and knuckle contact surfaces. As to protection, 2 wraps of cloth or friction tape looks period, and when it gets dirty, looks just like the factory wiring harness when it gets dirty. t has done too much installation work...
  24. It's pretty much as easy as making a couple of short tabs to hold the top ears, and 2 C- shaped clips for the bottom. A strip of 1/8" soft iron, a bit of rubber from a bike tire, and some bolts. I think I used the rubber isolation mounts at the top, and they made the straps align with the ears very nicely. It's been ages since I've done this- availability on the 320 radiator's probably pretty poor, these days. t
  25. On the other hand, your feet are never going to be cold! t
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