TobyB

what's that drip on the radiator hose?

t

It's a use- once thing.

The second time, it just falls out again.

I've tried reusing them, and it never works.

The nut crushes the lock ring, and then a relief in the nut holds the ring

in place by compression.  Once that compression is released, like the magic

smoke, it just doesn't seem to want to rejoin the party.

t

The post '67 US gauge surrounds were raised, matte silver painted rings.  It wore off, eventually.

Sometimes, the plastic underneath was nylon- colored, sometimes black.

The nanny state also prevented the brakes from suddenly failing, the

steering wheel from stabbing you through the heart, 

and then getting grilled like a hot dog when the gas tank ruptured, but, whatever.

71.5 saw the all- black gauges with all- black flat surrounds.

Replaced in 1974 by the Faaaaabulous woodgrain. 

I never understood that- it was the only fake- wood on the car, and looked like

a refugee from a Pinto wagon.  The optional shift knob was really wood, and looked 

like part of a tree.

Yes, the stud length changed over the years with the style of dash (one, two or 3 pieces.)

Because the gauge surround sat in a different position in each dash.

it's all pretty... lightweight.

t

AVO, VOM, whatever it takes!

4mA via the alternator's not a big draw, but it's about 3.5 more than I'd expect.

Modern cars pull dozens of mA, and batteries go dead in weeks- by design.

If you've got a 10mA draw, that battery should last months.  Which is about

as long as you'd expect it to last, given that flooded lead- acid batteries

self- discharge in a few months when left sitting by themselves...

t

Mike means for the running lights, here.

The ones that sit close to the reflectors.

t

Ed JUST did a thread on this-

https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/336040-driveshaft-flange-question/#comment-1662146

and I can't believe he left out the bump stop!  Jeeze, Ed!

Seriously, though, I've never seen one of those, and I've taken apart at least 2 of these cars in a Western Auto

parking lot.  Given that the guibo is acting as a pretty strong snubber anyway, maybe that's intended,

as that metal strap on the right side motor mount, as a limiter against engine motion.  Because the

driveshaft's certainly not going to come forward on you.  

Oh, or maybe it's helping preload... but it'd be... pushing the wrong way?  BMW wants you to have

tension on the driveshaft, not pressure.

Eh?

t

Did the Brady Bunch have a Cordoba with Corinthian Letha?

yeah, two pre- modell-71 gauges and a post- 73 cluster is what I see, too.

There will be manufacture dates stamped on the pcbs of the gauges, so that'll tell you the 'when'

part.

But at this point, we're all a bit 'custom...'  

t

..but classical physics is not.  A v8 fits just fine, until you want to put manifolds and plumbing onto it.

Then things get... cramped.  Quite cramped. 

Hmm.  I wonder if a 'hot v' would work...

It's all do- able, but it's off the old Pelican Auto Parts banana scale...

There were 3 M42/m44's in the cheap, friendly yard

up the road from me last week- they usually get $250 for a complete

engine with accessories.  

And I've not taken good care of the 2 M42's I've had, and both have held up fine-

you can buy quite a few 'gamble' engines and not be up to the cost of a complete

timing chain set with guides and tensioner rails.

t

finds the theory of the M42 attractive, but the practical aspects to be... expensive beyond their merits.

13x7 0 offset works, too.  I've run that.  Not wider, as that was the E Prod spec back when I was running them.

I'm sure a 13x8 would work, too, as the numbers work out just about perfectly, but I'm not sure you could run

much wider than a 205 tire.  Also, the 205-60 was still readily available in race rubber last I looked (which was some time back, now)

The 10" cantilevers also worked on the 7" rims, but the turbo flares left at that point for some 4" fender extensions.

I think I ran about an ET-20 (20mm out) or so rim to use those 13's.

t

wider is better IF you can get the whole patch to touch... which gets hard as things get wide.

I'd go engine shopping.

The M42 parts have long been stupidly expensive,

and IF you can find a used engine, they're tough,

and usually last a long time.

Did you have an oiling issue?  Thrust bearing?

t

+2 for Steven. 

I have had a few 'dry' installs be REALLY hard to bleed properly, 

and when this happens, loosening the fittings (with Mike's rags underneath)

does the trick.

t

Quote

The stock pre-80 crank is forged

as far as I've seen, even the 1.8i crank's forged, it's just not as evenly balanced.

t

If you can find the old metal one, it's better than the new rubber grommet.

t

I'll look next time I'm inside one of mine, but I don't think I do use wave warshers.

Byron, we're waiting for you to admit what you do...

t

ET0 worked well with my car with 6" 13's, when it had turbo flares on it,

but that let me easily run a 205-60-13 RA1, which is a really big tire for its dimensions

(as in, Toyo makes their race rubber larger than their street rubber)

t

The sender forms a resistive voltage divider to ground-

it doesn't get 12 as such, it sees one leg of the divider.

The meter then measures the center point of the divider,

and translates that to a fuel level.

Since you're not metering voltage at the sender wire, something's either shorted or broken

(measure resistance from the wire to the chassis)

so the next step would be to pull the pin at the gauge (remove the sender wire from the 10- pin socket)

and meter the pin itself.  If the pin shows voltage (and the gauge drops to empty) it's a wiring problem,

but if nothing changes and there's no voltage, it's a gauge problem.

t

divide and conquer

My thought is that if you're going forced induction, 2 liters is a lot, and the stock crank is very stout.

Beyond that, not much...  

t

Sure, you could torque the head bolts- honestly, though, I wouldn't worry about it.

Just run it, knowing it's a short timer.

Lash won't matter much- a high ZDDP oil may mitigate the wear a bit.  Or not, as  I agree, that's galling.

t

On 4/8/2024 at 12:50 AM, Tommy said:

For me this is hard to believe but good that it works for you.

Have you tried on track? How about two people on back seat? Wheel turned all the way and over a curb to driveway?

Well, there's rubbing  and then there's just a little touch now and then...

I tried so hard to get those 0 offset Panasports to work, and it really was a matter of a fraction of a centimeter...

t

That looks about right-

I had a bunch of zero offset Panasports in 13x6, when the race car had turbo flares on it,

and zero offset would grind off the outside 5mm or so on the street car.  

So yes, 10mm inset seems like about the minimum to run those tires...

t

wishes his had been et 10, because then he'd still have them.

yeah- oh, yuk. 

Get the Hardly Davidsunn 2400 zddp oil and run that until it dies...

...because that cam, I agree, is not ideal.  My version would be saving

up for a winter rebuild of another engine.  

Having watched others run some pretty horrible cams, though, you might get 

some fun out of it this summer.

t

Wrap a string around the perimeter, measure it, divide by 360, and then mark your string accordingly.

I then wrap the string back around the pulley, and hit it 

with a chisel at the important points, and with a punch

at the intermediate ones that I might be interested in later.

Then use some silver Sharpie to make the lines and dots pop.

Takes about 10 minutes, and making a  pointer takes maybe half an hour,

and then I just don't have to think about it any more.

t

I know why.

Many do.

The 32/36 is a progressive carb, where the 32mm bore opens first, and then the 36 follows on a bit later.

the 38/38 was originally meant for a V6, with each bore feeding one bank, and it's synchronous, with

both 38mm bores opening at the same time.

So for the first 20 degrees of throttle shaft rotation, the 38 flows a LOT more air.  Too much for a 2 liter, really,

but having run one for a few years, it was still a blast.

There is a 'sync link' out there for the 32/36 that opens the secondary 36mm barrel along with the 32.  Never tried that.

I DID find that lap times with a tired stock engine didn't much care if I was running a 32/36 or a 38/38- with a 6k

rev limit and 8.2:1 compression, the 32/36 isn't a flow restriction.

The 38/38 is more fun.  

t

Very pretty.

around here, the hemlock gets into the engine, the trunk seals, heater box, everything.

The spruce, not so much of a problem.

t

pressure washes the dog these days.

Quote

local vocational high schools and colleges

oh, snork.  My lathe came from one of those... Issaquah, I think,

since they shut them all down in the early 2000s around here.

My parents had us in NYS when I was in school, and I just didn't appreciate the educational systems of the NE back then.

We thought they were pretty poo- but then, I moved out here, and boy howdy, we had it good.  

Out here in the wild-wild-wikki-wikki-wild-wild-west, it's pretty hit or miss.  Mostly miss.  

Don't buy a cheap welder- buy a used one off C-List or facebutt marketplace.  Decent older 110v

Migs show up pretty regularly for half of a new one, and usually come with a tank and regulator.

And then yeah, buy an angle grinder, some gin, and I bet you could get one or more of us to come over

and watch you set yourself on fire!

heh

t