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Lilleyvanilli

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Everything posted by Lilleyvanilli

  1. Hi Brandon, Im looking for a ‘76 tan seat bottom (or just upholstery) in GC. Hoping I can use a psgr. Upholstery on a drivers seat. If complete seat bottom, I’d need the drivers side. May also be interested in back seat upholstery to cut up for the basket weave fabric to splice In up front (if it’s flexible and not too brittle). Thanks so much!
  2. I'll see if I can pull it backwards, although with the rest of the drive line in place & tight (center bearing excluded), i'm a bit hesitant. With the diff. nuts very loose (but not fully removed), I don't seem to be moving it at all using pry-screwdrivers. If I am at my frontal limit, I'll def. be able to see once I remove the nuts. So when moving this hulk, are folks just grabbing it with their hands? New tranny mounts (I have 2, not one. Don't ask. It's one of those 5 spd. conversions) and what I think is a decent engine alignment. Hope I don't have to go there (realigning eng/trans). Never really had any vibration issues, just guibo jobs every 3 yrs. See what being a perfectionist gets me?
  3. Ah, I purposely left the nuts on (fearing the diff tipping off the back), but yes the rear support is in place (cover bolts are loosened), plus the drive shaft is fully installed/torqued, so there's that holding it in too. Thanks Toby. Am I nuts for even bothering to move this thing this little an amount? I have been wedging a large screw driver (and a pry bar that keeps slipping and is too long) between output shaft collars and a stout side cast part of the diff. casing on both sides of the diff. and jiggling it about without much luck. I have a second long screw driver today. They seem to wedge in there nicely. Maybe now I should push upwards to "lift" the diff and somehow shove forward, once the nuts are removed? I'm hoping with the drive line all buttoned up (except center bearing), I'll feel a little resistance from the guibo so I don't shove too far.
  4. Read a lot of great drive line related info this morning here, but still have a question and wanted to share some process. Can anyone tell me HOW they've moved their differential forwards or backwards (what tools, where you wedged them, etc). I've got all six nuts loose on the diff & cover (and center support), cleaned off as much crud as I can see/feel, but can't get the dern thing to budge. Currently, the diff. is not being supported by a jack, thinking maybe could be binding? Need to buy a bottle jack, then slide? screw drivers? wood block & hammer? Where to position/cram? The photo shows where I sprayed a little paint with a pop sickle stick in place to show a reference line. .042" is about 2/3 of the stick thickness and derived from analyzing my old guibo (5 spd/6bolt). It took a set (complete with cracks) of .042" difference in height from one hole to the next (as in, when set guibo on a flat surface, every other hole was NOT sitting flat, but raised .042" measured with calipers). With the new guibo in place, I thought my logic was sound to just bump the diff. forward a tad and that would bring the driveshaft flange .042" closer to the trans. output flange (and solve years of "guibo wars"). If I bump it too much, I'll warp the guibo in the opposite direction (thus my paint & pop sickle stick trick, as I can't just muscle the thing into place and I'm working solo). Thinking now I should have just left well enough alone. What's the best way to gently eeeek this baby forward into alignment?
  5. Very glad you did! You've given me lots to go back and try before I break out the washer stacks. Thanks!
  6. Triangle welds in washers and re-balances the whole assembly. Looks very good.
  7. I've just had my 240 5 spd. non-adjustable driveshaft rebuilt (been shortened/installed for years), but I', really trying to get a better parallel mate-up of output flange-to-guibo and find I'm running into some challenges vertically at the tranny mount area. It appears I have to go upwards to get flanges to align better but don't think I can, as engine mounts don't adjust (or should I try loosening them along with my new tranny mounts?) and the TOP of the tunnel is pretty dern close. BUT... currently, my 2 pc. drive shaft is installed dead-nuts straight with only one washer under the center bearing support. If I raise the tranny, i have only one washer's-worth of vertical adjustment to raise center bearing too. Not sure what to do. All this nit-picking after recently examining the old guibo once out of the car. It appears that it has a slight "roller-coastering" due to more of a gap between drive shaft flange and guibo (about 1/16 "- 3/32"). I guess it's time to slide the diff. forward? (but doesn't moving affect rear alignment? need to take it in to re-align afterwards?). With the drive shaft in position and NOT attached to the diff., I would have thought I could just shove the drive shaft forward to close up the space at the guibo (thus transferring it to be a gap to the rear, now visible at the diff.). I can shove the drive shaft forward by hand all I want, but the gap by guibo won't close up. Will shoving the diff. closer be what's needed to push the driveshaft closer to the guibo... if, when everything is loose-fit (no nuts), I can't even slide drive shaft forward by hand to eliminate the gap? Seems like pushing the diff./drive shaft forward could put stress on the tranny output shaft & greased input bearing assembly, if I'm not careful. Thanks for any "input", ha!
  8. WOW!! The little yellow button really IS a $20K RARE option! That does it, I'm selling! Trying to avoid taking out the console to get to the button, as I seem to snap something plastic every time I get in there. I'll wait until the mice make a home in my heater box again. I'm currently chasinging down an electronic ignition (XR700) ghost and wanted to make sure this button was not going to confound my trouble shooting (meaning, maybe I SHOULD take things apart and post some photos of what I find?). Sounds like I should be OK though. Thanks you guys for all the input. Nice to see your all still loving on these buggies.
  9. Bingo! we have a winner! Yep, that's the one alright. And I do have the Behr AC unit. When I have pushed this button in the past, I get no tingly feeling and it does not even flash like the hazard button. Great to know you guys have a sense of humor though. So any idea on what it does (or if having it now stuck outward/engaged affects any other system, like for example, ignition circuit). The AC operates from the 2 knobs, not this button. And if it is truly a 'dummy', why didn't I turn it into a girfriend seat ejector button 15 years ago?
  10. It's been so long since I've played with my '02, but can anybody tell me if I need to make sure the yellow button on the console of my '76 needs to remain operable or if it is tied into an important circuit (like our hazard button is, for example)? Was cleaning her up and the button popped up and will not push in again. Any advice?
  11. I am rekindling a 17 year relationship with my '76 2002 and putting her back on the road! Needs: 1. trunk lid in good shape (mine=surface spots & edge rust) 2. doors in good shape (mine got creased due to failed door breaks and don't think they can be straightened/filled). 3. Hood in good shape (mine=a surface spot) 4. Front seats, tan in good cond. 5. Front windshield (not fogged) 6. drive shaft shop for our 'special needs' u-joints in Charlotte, NC or close (2 hr. radius) 7. Good (reasonably priced) paint man/shop in the Charlotte/surrounding area email: greglilley@hotmail.com 704-968-6785 . Location: Charlotte, NC USA
  12. Thanks for all the info, "S.Easters". Hope everybody had a great time in Winston Salem last weekend! Next year, I'm Drivin' dernit (with a nice smooth drive shaft.)
  13. I know there's the Pertronix units, but how many of us are running the ol' tried-n-true points these days? Very curious... If I can find a working XR700, I may reinstall. Bueller? Bueller? Anybody have one to unload?
  14. Well, According to Crane and all my tests, my XR700 module is a goner after 10 years of service and two years of headaches. Anybody have one they want to unload? It might be back to points for me...
  15. You know, out of all the things I've cleaned, not that. Really don't want to remove it to do so, but perhaps spraying some elec. contact cleaner in there would do some good, maybe fold up a little tissue and drag through. Thanks.
  16. Forgot to ask, Is the Euro Classica free to attend if you don't enter a car? Seems like it from viewing the website, but not sure.
  17. OK folks, I think I've determined my issue (Have i said this before?). I followed to the T the Crane troubleshooting guide that came with my ign. 10 years ago and this is what I found... 1. Pulled the coil wire at the distr. and taped it about 1/8 inch away from ground to see a spark jump and cranked. Nothing (already knew this, but) 2. ran a test light from - coil, grounded the high tension wire from the center of the coil (taped it to body where other grounds were) and cranked... Test light DID NOT PULSE, but remained solid ON. Because it did not pulse, Crane says move on to the module and optical trigger (and connections) 3. Checked all connections, cleaned, etc. Looks good. 4. Disconnected the black, white & gray wires at the molex plug leading from module to distrib./trigger. (**grey wire connects to clear wire on optical trigger). 5. Repositioned high tension center coil wire to 1/8" from ground to see spark jump, then turned ignition on (not turning car over, just 'on'). I then took a thick wire and on the molex coming from the module, jumped the white wire to the grey (or clear, as Crane says) and tapped it quickly, breaking connection. This is supposed to emulate the trigger firing while bypassing the trigger. AND GUESS WHAT... at first ... nothing. THEN ONE SPARK!! Then nothing. I got maybe 3 sparks in 2 minutes of jiggling the jumped wire. they say use a screwdriver, but same difference, eh? Apparently, this is to confirm that there is a problem with the module. If it would have fired consistently, the problem would be with the trigger. So Mike, about that module sitting on your shelf, hehe... I'll be confirming all this with a Crane tech tomorrow hopefully. Or it's back to points I go. Could have saved a lot of time, but I so wanted to chase this down and keep the elec. ign. It's great not to set your timing in 10 years, but not that big a hassle I guess, compared to getting stranded and never knowing if it will start.
  18. Yes, I like Billy. We were Teen Safe Driving instructors together. Just got his cell #. Hoping not to spend a ton on this since I've already got the parts (like nowhere close to $400). And I agree, there's GOT to be shops around here skillful enough to do this. I'm just talking to the wrong ones. Boy, I want to come up Sat, but not sure I can make it. Thank you for all the responses. Feel like I'm getting closer. Now back to that electronic ignition troubleshooting (and the Maxima that I finally took to the shop for fuel injector woes. Man, when it rains...)
  19. Looking for someone to rebuild my 3 bolt flange 5 spd. shaft who's not on the west coast. Anybody close to Charlotte, NC? ** lost phone info on the guy in Morganton, NC
  20. OK folks, I think I've determined my issue (Have i said this before?). I followed to the T the Crane troubleshooting guide that came with my ign. 10 years ago and this is what I found... 1. Pulled the coil wire at the distr. and taped it about 1/8 inch away from ground to see a spark jump and cranked. Nothing (already knew this, but) 2. ran a test light from - coil, grounded the high tension wire from the center of the coil (taped it to body where other grounds were) and cranked... Test light DID NOT PULSE, but remained solid ON. Because it did not pulse, Crane says it's on to the module and optical trigger (and connections) 3. Checked all connections, cleaned, etc. Looks good. 4. Disconnected the black, white & gray wires at the molex plug leading from module to distrib./trigger. (**grey wire connects to clear wire on optical trigger). 5. Repositioned high tension center coil wire to 1/8" from ground to see spark jump, then turned ignition on (not turning car over, just 'on'). I then took a thick wire and on the molex coming from the module, jumped the white wire to the grey (or clear, as Crane says) and tapped it quickly, breaking connection. This is supposed to emulate the trigger firing while bypassing the trigger. AND GUESS WHAT... at first ... nothing. THEN ONE SPARK!! Then nothing. I got maybe 3 sparks in 2 minutes of jiggling the jumped wire. they say use a screwdriver, but same difference, eh? Apparently, this is to confirm that there is a problem with the module. If it would have fired consistently, the problem would be with the trigger. So Mike, about that module sitting on your shelf, hehe... I'll be confirming all this with a Crane tech tomorrow hopefully. Or it's back to points I go. Could have saved a lot of time, but I so wanted to chase this down and keep the elec. ign. It's great not to set your timing in 10 years, but not that big a hassle I guess, compared to getting stranded and never knowing if it will start.
  21. Where did you find/hear about them? Anybody else used them? I need a 5 spd. 3 bolt flange shaft asap (or rebuild mine, have all the parts)
  22. Welcome to the brotherhood! Daily Driver!!! Yeah! Keep workin'. Nice pics,
  23. I want them to rebuild my exact shaft/core, not get one off the shelf. I bought my u-joints, end bearing and center bearing from them and they have agreed to deduct from the cost of the shaft rebuild. So it might make sense for me to send the shaft and parts over to them. I'm being told 1 week (not counting shipping time). Would be interested in quality comments and how they secured the u-joint endcaps. Please PM me if you are not comfortable posting their shaft vendor here online?
  24. Charging syst: check Battery: check (car will turn over all day long, never dying) Used volt meter: 12.5v on red from ign. to coil. Please be specific as to all the electr. ign. systems 'not working properly' at 12v? It's basic knowledge that 12v is a low figure (points or otherwise), but what are your trying to tell me?
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