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JerryC

Kugelfischer
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Everything posted by JerryC

  1. I've used the kitchen oven to speed up JB Weld cure. One hour at the oven's lowest setting (175°F on most that I've seen), and the goop is fully hardened and ready to use. ... I chose times when no one was looking to do this. Never got caught. JB Weld works well for reassembling broken plastic bits in '02 electrical switches, and to refasten assemblies from which the swaged metal fastening bit has been drilled out or filed off to disassemble it. I've used JB Weld to repair a broken high/low beam switch (shirt sleeve caught the lever and snapped it off), heater fan motors, and a couple others that escape me right now. Just don't get it into the electrical circuit, it's metal filled and will conduct. Jerry
  2. Great news. Somehow, the simple things always seem to cause enormous driveability problems. Running worse as it warmed up was probably just the battery running down. Go figure. I was going to suggest checking for vacuum leaks, but a miswired ignition definitely will cause issues. Glad you figured it out. Jerry
  3. Point taken, the topic is "Electric 2002 Conversion". There are indeed many supply chain and technical challenges to electrifying all things that need power. The end result will be interesting to see, and it's likely to continuously change until the most economical systems are in place. -Jerry
  4. Beg to differ, plug-in mining shovels have been around for over 30 years. That's a power cord at the bottom of the photo (the cord looks small, but scale it to the dump truck): I don't recommend this kind of power for 2002 conversions, someone would steal the cord for the copper (gotta keep this on '02's). -Jerry
  5. The original stuff got through 50 years already. Are you worried about the next 50 years? For me, the best weight reduction for driving would be for me to lose about 25 pounds off the driver's seat. Just sayin'... I would be inclined to use the stuff I already have. Maybe just replace the old tar stuff where it was and leave the rest. You'll never make it as quiet as a 2023 BMW, it's a 50 year old car. If you feel like you didn't do enough, add some more later when you go "under the carpet" for the inspection you mentioned. -Jerry
  6. On the base 2002's, the pressure line (actually, it's a suction line due to the fuel pump location) is plastic and it's routed through the interior. The return line is steel routed outside, under the car. Hmmm - Maybe using the plastic line with a rear mounted electric fuel pump isn't such a good idea, just sayin'. On the tii's, the lines are reversed. The plastic internal line is the low pressure (nearly zero pressure) return line, and the high pressure feed line is the external steel line. They are routed the same as the base '02's, except at the fuel pump and the engine bay. -Jerry
  7. Terry has added a cold start video 😁, plus driving videos, including the S52 (for comparison). Definitely watching this one. btw... This may not be such a bad way to go with a 4-speed. Freeway revs in an EV? Who cares? Jerry
  8. Do everything Mike says. This is a common characteristic on '02s. The only thing I would say differently from Mike is that most of those gauges started doing that about 30 years ago. All 3 '02s that I had owned since 1990-ish needed this to be corrected. It's quite typical for the blinkers and/or the headlights to change temperature gauge readings as well. That's a good clue that the grounds are failing. -Jerry
  9. That would be a manufacturing defect. Never seen that before! 😁 If it's been working okay for 51 years, maybe just leave it the way it is. IMO, that's a low risk approach. Besides, it's part of your '71's legacy now. Maybe it belongs there. -Jerry
  10. Just sold my '72tii (non-running, needs quite a bit of work). I mostly miss the gummihar (sp?) smell. Jerry
  11. Do you mind me asking where the '68 came from? I used to have one of those manila '68s that ended up in New York, last I heard. I miss that little car. It was a lot of fun. Jerry
  12. Cover up the holes to keep spiders and critters from making nests inside there. Jerry
  13. So, I don't question that there is a "scrapy" sound in the video, but the exhaust is definitely rubbing on the differential. Freeze the video at 19 seconds and take a look: Exhaust touching the body or frame will make a lot of noise that's audible all through the car. I think you ought to fix that first and recalibrate your ear to the remaining sounds, before you tear the diff out. Have you ruled out the center support bearing? Jerry
  14. I'm no expert on CA smog, but I'm quite certain it has to be able to pass a visual inspection. In other words, the required emissions control devices all need to be present and appear to be working. There are ways to get a Weber 32/36 with CARB compliance markings and stay legitimate. Beyond that, I can't help much. You seem to have a bond with this car which may make my next bit hard to swallow. If this car is cosmetically good and the rust can be shown to be minimal to non-existant, an out of state buyer should be easy to find. Then, take the proceeds and purchase a 1975 or older '02, forget about the smog stuff, and do whatever you want with the car. Just my 2-cents worth... Good luck with the project, and enjoy the journey! Jerry
  15. Welcome to '02ing! Sounds like, and looks like, you got a good one. You're correct to be concerned about temperature indications. You really don't want to overheat that engine. The '02 temperature gauge is a known weak link in the electrical system due to poor grounding between the cluster and the chassis that deteriorates over time. Normally, it will show about the 3 o'clock position when warmed up. You state that turning on the headlights changes the temperature indication, and that is a "good" sign that the problem is caused by grounding (earth) issues. Actuating the blinkers may cause the needle to jump also. There are numerous forum conversations about this. Fixing it is not difficult, and can be quite gratifying. You can try to improve the voltage regulator grounding by cleaning up the regulator mounting screw. The regulator (if it is still present, assuming original alternator is still there) is mounted on the inner fender near the battery. Hot coolant enters the radiator from the cylinder head at the top, so the temperature there should be the maximum, as you guessed. If there is a possibility of air entrapment in the system, try raising the front wheels slightly and run the engine with the heater on and the radiator cap off to fully purge trapped air. The heater controls adjust coolant flow through the heater core. That's a whole 'nother project... Good luck with your "new" '02! Jerry
  16. If you haven't done so already, take out the back seat bottom cushion and see what the rear crossmember mounts look like from the inside. Those need to be securely mounted. IF the repairs in that area look structurally sound (just guessing that you'll find rust repairs in there, based on the other rust repairs), I suggest you put everything back in and, as others have suggested also, go drive it for quite a while. It could take a while to decide what kind of '02 you really like.
  17. I had a '71 1600 that had a frame rail fully packed with acorns after it had sat in a barn for a while. They didn't rattle, but they did accelerate the rusting out of that area. Maybe there's a broken weld or two that normally fastens the floor pan to the frame rail. Or, my usual suspect is exhaust. How is the rear transmission mount and the shift linkage? I once had a rattle from "down there" that I didn't pay much attention to until the shift tower came loose from the transmission. The whole shifter moved up and down quite a bit after that, as I recall. If you get under the car with the engine running, it's a pretty short reach to the throttle linkage and you can rev it to your heart's content. Just make sure it CAN'T ROLL, working e-brake and wheel chocks at least. Jerry
  18. Check that the front pulley nut is tight. If it has loosened, the key slot will gradually enlarge and it will knock. While you're at it, check all the pulleys for tightness. I once had a generator ('67 Fiat 124) pulley nut loosen and it took a while to figure out that noise while halfway to Canada. Now, how would I come up with something like that? btdt Jerry
  19. For the record, the transmission mounted exhaust bracket was in place when the Stahl broke. Jerry
  20. My tii had a Stahl header (i.e., good quality unit) when I bought it, and it cracked around the collector, and near the cylinder head two or three times. The muffler shop that welded it said "See you later" the last time they welded it, but I swapped it out for a new tii manifold and down tube and never went back. Never had an exhaust pipe problem after that. Jerry
  21. Your description says, "... now I get this upon fire up when motor revs over 2500." Hard to tell much from just this video without a description of which sound is not normal. Try another video at 2500 rpm, this one does not seem to be doing that. Is the "chirpy" sound the one you're concerned about, or the leaky exhaust sound? Sounds like a possible exhaust leak or loose exhaust part or something to me, but I can't be certain what I hear. How about the fan belt tension, is the tensioner loosened? I had tube headers that cracked and were welded a couple times and that made a lot of noise, went back to stock manifold to finally cure that. -Jerry
  22. Yep, I still hear it. Cazcajo and gracer made me wonder if I had lost all the marbles, but I think there is a rattly sound in the background of your video soundtrack. How are the engine mounts? Maybe something's rubbing when the engine moves. It's usually something to do with the exhaust when that happens, but shift linkage can sometimes rub on something too.
  23. I could hear the noise you described. It sounds familiar for some reason, but nothing clicked in my tiring brain. It sounds like a loose part that likes to rattle at that engine speed. Is there a loose part on the exhaust pipe, or a loose baffle inside one of the mufflers? Try banging on the exhaust with a rubber mallet, maybe it will reveal itself. Also, check the shift linkage for loose parts (that might be what's nagging at me). Finally, I recall having a loose alternator pulley at one time that made a rattly sound sort of like that one. Doesn't sound like it's inside the engine to me, but I wasn't in the car to hear it for real so... take all this with a grain of salt. That's my .02 cents worth, anyway. Jerry
  24. Just to add (maybe less than) 02 cents worth... It seems to me that those ground wires that are attached to the speedo mounting screws won't do anything for the temp and fuel gauges. There's no metallic connection between them. The gauge housing is plastic, and the temp/fuel gauges are mounted to an insulating circuit board material. No visible current path there to me. I wonder how this fixed someone else's ground problem?
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