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ColinK

Turbo
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Everything posted by ColinK

  1. The 8x13 (16121180409) BMW fuel hose (from Blunt, other vendors or the dealer) is rated for higher pressures than 'normal' fuel hoses. Last time i purchased from a dealer is was in a one meter length and it handled all the connections. Good time to replace the fuel filter by the radiator also and check the mesh filter on the bottom of the tank pick up.
  2. Here's a different thought. Given your car is at least 48 years old and it sounds like the tie rods are (?) original, I would just replace the entire unit and be done with it. However there is scope creep....the center track rod, then bushings, and before you know it a whole suspension refresh....
  3. Maybe 200 at the flywheel and not at the wheels? Accounting for ~22% through the drivetrain that would put ~156 where the rubber meets the road... Who knows.
  4. James, thanks for putting this together. Sadly i won't be able to join as i have family in that weekend. Stay safe and have a great drive!! Colin
  5. My experience with a 292 cam (Isky regrind) in a tii is that it ran lean above 3.5k. I had Wes add his lever that addressed the leaning out. It worked and I have a WB sensor installed.
  6. If you want ethanol free gas, go to Pure-gas.org - ethanol-free gasoline in the U.S. and Canada WWW.PURE-GAS.ORG Pure-gas.org is the definitive web site listing stations that sell pure gasoline in the U.S. and Canada.
  7. There's a fuel filter on the bottom of the pick up in the fuel tank. I'd check that and possibly replace the fuel in the tank while you're at it. When my fuel pump died years ago, it went slowly and the care would barely run. So that could be another candidate but go with the basics first. good luck
  8. One thing to remember is that the suspension design for our cars was on 13” rims with skinny 165 tires. So by moving up to 14” or 15” adds more sprung weight with some disadvantages: wheel bearings wear faster, heavier steering/feedback and less compliant ride due to loss of sidewall. 195 or larger tires only add more weight. That said, I’ve gone to 14” but have moved down to 185s. I’ve thought about 15x6 but given the poor roads in the Seattle area combined with urethane bushings, shorter springs and Bilsteins HDs, I’ll stick with more sidewall. Just my opinion and YMMV.
  9. Wes has done a bunch of work my tii. He and Herb re-built my Alpina A4 and Wes installed it. I first had Patrick install a new exhaust and I had added a WB sensor just after the header. Great shop, he does work mainly on Alfas (Spica is also mechanical FI). FWIW, the PS BMW club used to have a dyno day at the Carb Connection in Kirkland, not sure if they still do.
  10. If the idle is bouncing around you likely have air leaking somewhere. And hence the hunt begins but the above references are a good place to start.
  11. Yup, that's Wes' secret sauce so there is no documentation but there are pictures. He modified my KF ~15 years ago with a lever as I had put a 292 in my tii. Yes it ran lean (lots of fun) and the lever addressed it. I installed a wideband sensor and that helped in fine tuning. Perfect - no but better than leaning and pinging. I still have my KF pump with a lever. Based upon my experiences I wouldn't put a 292 in if i had to do it all over. Maybe a 284 as others have said. YMMV.
  12. years ago i ordered them from a dealer:
  13. George, give Wes Ingram a call, he and Herb can refresh your pump and injectors. They're Spica guys but like working on a KF. Long story short, my motor is now pushing 30+ years since Leif Anderberg rebuilt it with an e12 head and 292 cam that resulted in the car running lean. Wes installed his linkage to address the leanness. Last compression test years ago was in the 190s. About 10+ years ago I put in a MSD and noticed that starts fired quicker (Petronix installed 15+ years ago?). About 8 years ago (?) i had Wes rebuild an A4 system. I then had Patrick put a new exhaust in and then I had Wes install the A4. The car runs beautifully and you can't beat the lightness of the '02. cheers
  14. When a subcontractor says, "we not worried about the sidewall leak, we have duct tape and there's still air in the tire"
  15. if it sat for 10+ years, i'd just replace the belt along with all the fuel hoses (with a the correct fuel hoses) and replace the fuel filter by the radiator.
  16. Since the OP states his car starts w/o issue, I don't think it could be the CSV. if it wasn't working, car would be hard to start.
  17. another possible cause is the spring/and or bushing in pedal box is shot. might be time for a re-build.
  18. Wes modified my KF pump years ago on my '72 and it worked well with a 292 cam. Without the lever the AFR was getting too lean and the lever addressed it. He installed it and fine tuned it at his shop. I have a WB sensor installed that helped in the fine tuning. BTW, i've since gone with an A4 system. Wes refurbished the TBs, Herb matched injectors and they installed and fine tuned it.
  19. likely not practical for a daily driver but i've been getting 100% dino fuel. find a dealer here: www.pure-gas.org not cheap either.
  20. Great to have you back!!
  21. with the increased displacement to 2.1 and the 290 cam, i wonder how the AFR was addressed. in my experience, the 290 cam was enough to cause a leanness. i couldn't see if there was an 'enrichment lever'...... still a great restro but crazy price IMHO.
  22. Wonderful man, going to miss him. RIP.
  23. I've only used the FI specific 8mm hoses that i've ordered from Blunt. The 'barricade' brand sounds like it should work as it is rated to 225 PSI. i'd replace all the hoses. note there is (or was) an inline metal screen filter before the pump and before the KF (they might not be there any more or they could be gunked up. unmount the expansion tank and give it a shake to see if there is any crud in it. FWIW, when my fuel pump went out ~30 years ago, it ran fine for a while and would then intermittently drop it output the the car would chug along. but you're on your 2nd pump so that it unlikely.
  24. That's the slave cylinder. If it is leaking from it, time to replace it. Be a good time to replace the hose also. If you're doing it yourself, check your brake lines also, could also be a good time to replace. Flush all the entire brake/clutch fluid while you're at it. DOT 3/4. No DOT 5. Get a covering plate for the transmission while you're at it.
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