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landon

Kugelfischer
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Everything posted by landon

  1. Understood these are hard to evaluate over the internet... but thanks for listening! I was hopeful with the plug test but wasn't sure if that is 100%. My untrained ear doesn't quite get the double clack but checking valvetrain again is worth doing. I'm guessing I can tighten valves one at a time at operating temp for this?
  2. Yes, best heard on low idle. Sounds like a lower toned knock to me....
  3. No change with clutch engagement...
  4. running 20w-50 VR1. No gauge other than dash light. Remote gauge may be next step. I'm sure the 225k oil pump is less than factory fresh but I'm not likely to replace one in this engine. Just wondering how a failure may come about - slow burn or sudden seizure?
  5. I don't think so but I'll have another listen.
  6. I am trying to determine the cause of an engine noise and of course would love to rule out a rod knock. Car is a daily driver except for winter. Engine has 225k miles and otherwise runs quite well. No misfires. decent power and good oil control for the mileage. Noise has been around for a while... not sure how long but probably a couple of seasons. Just seems to be ringing in my ears louder now... 1. Valves are adjusted. I've done .006 and .007 adjustments with no difference in noise. Valvetrain sounds OK to me and nothing out of the ordinary under the valve cover. 2. I disconnected the AC belt to eliminate that pulley. 3. Using a stethoscope and my untrained ear, the noise "seems" loudest on the bottom end toward the back of the engine. 4. I disconnected plug wires one at a time and the noise remains. No difference other than the rough running of 3 cylinders. I've done done this a few times and quite sure there is no difference in the knocking noise. Noise is not apparent on start up and fast idle. It is there after warmup. You can hear it best on the low idle video - temp is coming up off the blue and choke is disengaged so idling at 700 rpm or so. Hard to hear on the fast idle video at startup. Ignore the loose alternator belt.... New engine is in the long term plans but I would love to drive this a while longer while I sort the logisitics of a swap. I just don't want a catastrophic failure on the road. Thanks for your thoughts. Operating temp.MOV Low idle.MOV Fast Idle.MOV
  7. I had the defroster grid on my 1975 model. Bought that in 1990 so think it was original? My lawn mower threw a rock at it and it shattered so replaced with a clear glass..
  8. Here in the mountains I get 22-26 mpg with my 38DGAS. 2.0l w/ 9.5 CR. Looks like there is room for improvement.....
  9. You start with this and 43 years later you're like me and you can't give up your 2002! 17 years old, a rusty '68 1600 for $300.00 and zero knowledge was a great combination that has given back to me more than I can tell . You have a great idea and best of luck in your search!
  10. Absolutely brilliant! Utah will still be pretty hot in August and early September. My favorite car camping spot with the 02 is Cowboy camp near Canyonlands Island in the Sky. Don't venture too far off on dirt roads without knowing where you are going! It will be a good time for the high country in CO. Kebler Pass is good dirt road on the way to Crested Butte for dispersed camping...alot of forest service campgrounds close around the 1st of September. New Castle CO is on the way to Ft Collins if you need anything...
  11. I installed the Jeep filter a few years ago and it greatly improved hot starts. 1977 CJ7 is what I ask for at any parts store. With that said I had what seemed to be vapor lock last year on a hot day at 10,000 ft. Has not happened since... The filter also reduced the fuel smell coming from the carb after shutdown, although I am noticing that is returning a bit.
  12. Looking for thoughts on driving a car with bad rear wheel bearing. I know it's bad.... but ideally I would like to get it over to a shop 200 miles away. I probably have 500 miles since I first thought there was an issue. Low pitch hum from the rear. This was after I put on my summer tires. Thought it might be tires and the Direzzas were a bit worn on the insides. Put new tires on last week and noise persisted and seems to be getting louder. It sounds like a low pitch hum and it follows road speed and goes away on right turns. There is no perceptable play in the wheel. After driving yesterday the rear wheels felt about as hot as the fronts. 1988 325ix. Thanks!
  13. Putting feelers out there for a stock 4 speed trans for my 75 2002. I think I have an input shaft bearing failing so trying to figure out next steps for replacement / rebuild. Thanks!
  14. I have been running a very similar one on my carb for a few years now. It does engage the fast idle cam and close the butterflies resulting in quick cold starts so that's fine. I find it limited in partial choke running as it warms up though. It's either on or off. Had another type years ago on this carb that was a better quality mechanism but the soft metal on the gear accuator eventually wore down. It behaved the same though so I don't think one was better than the other. Manual choke on the DGV seems to works much better.
  15. I just went thru this last fall. Only one I found was this one on ebay. Working so far.... Tried to get the old one rebuilt by the only alternator shop in western Colorado and they said they could not get parts. I'll keep looking for another shop to get a spare done. BMW 2002 1600 Alternator With NEW Regulator 1966 - 1976 AL89X Generator WWW.EBAY.COM Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for BMW 2002 1600 Alternator With NEW Regulator 1966 - 1976 AL89X Generator at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
  16. Happy Birthday! That car looks great!
  17. TomVail ferrari parts. Sold under the bmw part # and it appears to be identical to the original one removed. I've had the car for 33 years and only wiring I recall being touched at the fuse block is off the #12 fuse so will be looking that direction to the coil. No signs of mice this year but a rabbit chewed thru my old subaru alternator harness!
  18. The switch is a new one purchased thru a Ferrari parts dealer. The symptoms are similar to what was going on with the the original switch just removed.
  19. Ok, it seems the coil does have power on accessory because the engine is purring along and nicely idling. Coil gets power from #12 fuse -correct? And that connects back to ignition switch via #4 fuse. I saw John76's switch diagram and see the green wires should not have voltage on accessory. I briefly checked that today and saw no voltage at the green wires in any key position. I'll double check that and all the wire connections at the switch...
  20. So, I started this post in 2016 and had what seemed to be an intermittent short in the ignition switch. The issue "mostly" went away for some years but returned with more consistency last year. I did start the car today and the old switch operated normally. I got around to replacing the electrical switch today. Checked wire connections to ensure everything is the right place. Looks good. All wire connectors look good. Startup is normal. When I turn the key from "fahrt" to the "o" accessory position the engine stays running. The "L" light comes on as well as the brake light. When I turn the key to "Halt" it shuts off. Went thru this several times and it consistently does the same thing. What do I check now? TIA for any ideas...
  21. After years of messing with this problem, I took the arm and shaft over to a local shop and had them weld it together. I don't know if the materials are really that weldable but it has held for many years now.
  22. I like my bottlecaps. They are purposeful, great fit and when I bought them in 1990 they were a great upgrade for a daily driver. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Still work well today although the choice of tires is not as it used to be.
  23. I saw the $ 154 price on their website. I purchased it from their Ebay site which still shows it listed at 95.00. Only 3 left now....
  24. I have used Bosch Wr8dc for many years without issue. Points, or pertronix and red coil. No issues.
  25. I started having switch problems about 8 years ago. Did some lubrication and that helped for a number of years. Now getting some more frequent issues with it not turning the engine off. Ok, after 463k miles it's time for a new one. All the usual suppliers showed NLA and a couple showed the part in the $300.00 range. I searched Ebay and found Tom Vail's All Ferrari Parts showing Ferrari Part # 70000707 ( BMW # 61312682120). The new part was just delivered for $109.04 including shipping. Looks to be correct and hoping it will make the car go faster.....
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