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Everything posted by Slavs

  1. I guess it's all relative. What's considered lousy by some of us is great for others. I briefly had a motor built by one of the BMW tuners, and I thought it was junk. With barely 10K miles it was drinking oil, running with a lumpy idle and getting terrible mileage. It had oversize JE forged pistons in the 10.0 / 1 compression range, a reground 292 or something to that extent cam, header and free flow exhaust. It also had a "properly" jetted 38/38 carb. There was nothing fun about this motor as the driveability suffered along with the mileage which was in the 15mpg range. I tried using the 38/38 on a stock motor, where it fared even worse. My conclusion is that the stock motors, including the stock "Ti" and "Tii" motors with the standard 264degree stock cam are much more flexible compared to the higher performance builds. Different strokes for different folks, but that is my assessment based on using the 02 as daily transportation since 1982. The last thing I want is a "Hot" motor with a narrow power band, and that is what you get with high performance builds and long duration cams. Maybe some of you have had better luck, but I've relegated both of my 38/38 carbs to the parts bin. I think the Weber DCOE sidedraft carbs work better with the stock motor, if properly set-up. But, in addition to the carbs, be prepared to spend an additional $500 on jets, venturis and other tuning items to make them work right. Synching the carbs is an art in itself. And, your mileage will really suffer. All of my high performance stuff is sitting in boxes. It just isn't practical for the street. There are people here on the FAQ who claim they get great mileage with all the high performance mods. But, I simply don't believe it.
  2. This carb was designed for a 6 cylinder motor. There are no good jetting options. It's all or nothing with this carb. It's the worst carb you can use for this motor. Slavs
  3. It's used by some of the guys here on their more economical race motors, otherwise they get bumped into a much more competitive class when running side draft carbs. But,this carb was never used by the factory or Alpina for their race motors, as money wasn't an issue for them. In my opinion, the 38/38 is a bad match for the M10 motor unless you want to run flat out. The power band and torque feel very steep and narrow wit this carb, which was designed for a six cylinder motor. I have two of these carbs, one barely used, which I never intend on using again. They also yield lousy mileage. Others here will swear by this carb, but I will never mount them on my motors again. It's probably the worst carb for the M10 motor, at least from my experience. Slavs
  4. Why does it always have to be a 2 liter ? The 1.8L is a very good motor with a big bore (89mm) and short stroke (71mm) combination. This particular 1.8L was developed in 1968, well after the 2 liter. It's a very smooth motor. Due to the short stroke, it was not necessary to fully counterbalance the crank. The stock cast pistons are very high quality and strong. And, the piston pin location is mounted lower, but I don't see why this is relevant. With the exception of the bore, BMW uses the same block in all of its M10 variants. The main bearing to block deck distance is the same for all blocks. BMW uses the same connecting rod length for all its M10 variants. Different stroke is achieved through the different crankshafts and piston pin location. The short stroke motors are purpose built for smooth operation and high rpm's. Engineers often de-stroke motors while increasing the bore to maintain displacement when building high performance racing motors. BMW, Porsche and Alfa have all done this. The Alfa Giulia GTA 1600 is one such example while the BMW Formula 1 motor from the early eighties is another. I'm aware most of you guys here are 2 liter centric, but smaller displacement M10 motors were also produced, and they are not inferior to the 2 liter. They have their purpose. The 1802 is a very nice car with a silk smooth motor.
  5. The 1.8L motor with the 89mm bore (like the 2L motor) and short 71mm stroke (like the 1600 motor) configuration was first developed in 1968. Prior to that the 1.8L BMW motors had a smaller 84mm bore (like the 1600) and the longer 80mm stroke (like the 2 liter motors). BMW switched to the the bigger bore ad shorter stroke for the 1.8L because the short stroke motors are smooth motors. By about 1980, BMW stopped using forged cranks in most of their production cars. If you want to use a forged crank for your 1.8L, you can hunt down a 1600 or 1802 crank from 1970 and up. Prior to that most 1600 cranks were of the 6 bolt vs. 8 bolt design. But, the cast BMW cranks are good as well for street motors. In my opinion, the 1.8L motor from 1968 and up is a good design as it is very smooth and economical. The motor is more comfortable with high rpms due to its short stroke. It also feels great with the 245 OD 5 speed transmission and 3.90 diff. Slavs
  6. That's in my neighborhood, and I didn't even know about it. I drive through there with my 02s all the time. In addition to the 02s, I love those Alfa Giulias and Porsches. I'll most likely be there next month. Slavs
  7. I have to increasingly angle my foot as I step on the accelerator pedal, especially at full throttle. And there is very little room to service / replace the slave. So that’s the trade off for having that overdrive. For those of you who don’t do their own work and can afford a mechanic to do the wrenching, it may be no big deal. But, I dread the day I have to replace and bleed that slave cylinder on my 245 OD.
  8. Thanks for all the tips. I have a total of 3 of these T50 boosters. And, I've spent the last three days going through all of them; one leaks hydraulic fluid to the outside, but holds vacuum, another leaks hydraulic fluid into the barrel and does not hold vacuum, and another has no apparent hydraulic leak, but does not hold vacuum. I'm tired of replacing the damn things and living in hydraulic fluid. I'll send a couple in for rebuild. It's too bad there is not a source in the US which has them in stock.
  9. Call me crazy or an anomaly on this FAQ, but I'm actually contemplating removing my 245OD and replacing it with a Porsche synchroed gearbox. And, I may do this when the slave cylinder goes south. Some of you guys partially remove the 245 OD just to replace the slave cylinder, while others have cut a hatch in the transmission tunnel to get to it. Some of you have beat the transmission tunnel in. But, this is not an option for me as I wear size 14-15 shows in wide. So, I'd like to access my accelerator pedal freely.
  10. When BMW designed the close ratio, they made 1st gear very long. There were actually three different versions of the close ratio, differing primarily in the length of the 1st gear. The rally or race versions had the longest 1st gear. The problem with the 245 OD 5 is that 1st gear is rendered useless when you go with the 4.10 and 3.90. It just becomes a stump puller with this gearing, especially with the 2 liter. It works better with the short stroke 1.8. As far as the value of your car, it seems the consensus here is that it adds value, but I think it detracts from value when looked at from a more macro view. I have the 245 OD in one of my cars. It was rebuilt by BMW's top gearbox and diff builder who worked for BMW and Max Hoffman. So, it is as god of a 245 as you can get. But, I'm not too impressed, especially with my current diff ratio. And, again, I don't like the way these things shift. Call me picky, but that's me.
  11. All Borg and Warner synchroes have teeth while the Porsche synchroes are tapered and smooth rings. This difference in design accounts for the different feel. The Borg Warner synchroes are notchy or Klicky while the Porsche synchroes feel like a hot knife through butter. I don't think many of you have driven an early 02 with the original Porsche synchroed gearbox in good working condition. The only 5 speed conversion I think would work well on these cars is the 5 speed close ratio gearbox with Porsche synchroes. You can get an overdrive out of 5th by going to the 3.45 rear diff. And, your 1st and 2nd gear wouldn't be crunched up and too close together like they are with the 245 when you run the 3.90 or 4.11 diff. Furthermore, the slave cylinder on the close ratio is mounted in the proper location. But, the close ratio gearboxes are very expensive. The 245 OD boxes are getting too expensive as well. Most ended up at the wrecking yards where they were crushed. And, now many of you guys are dying to get your hands on one. But, I think they are still over rated. Slavs
  12. The 02s are rapidly appreciating in value and approaching collector status, although, still not in the realm of the Porsches such as the 356, 912 and early 911s. The 02 is at a transition point now where there are still a lot of us who were having fun over the years swapping motors, gearboxes and doing all kinds of modifications frowned upon by purists and collectors. Many of us did this because the BMWs were cheap and parts were abundant. But, this is no longer the case. Gone are the days when you can walk into a Pick Your Part Yard and purchase a fairly clean 02 for $600. If you didn't want the entire car, you could have opted for just the engine at $125, or you could have yanked the 245 5 speed from a 320i for the same amount, $125. And, for an additional $75 you could have also yanked the 3.90 LSD diff from the 320is. You get my point ? In the long run, the addition of the 245 OD 5 speed will depreciate the value of your car. Furthermore, it is my opinion that the 245 OD 5 speed is an over rated transmission. I have one on my 67 1600 coupled to a 2 liter motor and a 4.10 LSD. The shift points with this combination give me the impression that I'k driving a truck because the car feels way too under geared. 1st gear is useless and 2nd gear has taken the place of 1st. I can climb moderately steep hills in 5th gear at 2,000 rpms. In comparison to a 2 liter mated to a 4 speed and 3.64, I'm just barely taller in 5th gear. The diff of choice to use with the 245 OD 5 speed is the 3.90, otherwise 5th is too tall for the 3.64 diff. And wit this combo, you're about 10% taller in comparison to the 3.64 with the 4 speed. The 245 OD works better with the short stroke 1.8L 1nd 1.6L motors with short gear ratios and shorter piston strokes. My other car is a 69 1600 with all stock mechanicals, and I would never trade in my Porsche synchroed 4 speed trans for a 245 OD 5 speed. The 245 feels very notchy when shifting. I personally don't like the way it feels. I've been driving both of my cars and comparing the two trannies. The early Porsche synchroed gearboxes are superior. Your 73 does not have this early transmission, but I would still not swap it for a 245. Your car will loose value in the long run if you install the 245 5 speed. And, it is not all that it is touted to be. The 2002 feels great with the 3.64. Slavs
  13. Thanks, I'll contact Jaymic. Slavs
  14. Thanks for all the input. The Mercedes brake booster is not a direct fit, and if it was, I'd never pay the $2,500 Euros or whatever they are asking for it. As for the RHD cars, the part number is showing up as the same number, although I've noticed there are two different sizes used for the slave ( 18mm and 22mm). I'll contact the local shop near LA and take it from there. Attempting to repair a stripped thread on the slave cylinder on one of my spare units may be next to impossible as this is a critical brake component. IF all else fails, I'll remove the pedal box and install the more modern one along with the newer style booster, but this will require bending and / or installing new brake lines, which is quite a job. There is little or next to no support from BMW with regards to the early 02s (The early 1600-2s) and NK cars. I've noticed this over the years. Slavs
  15. The T50 Remote Servo - Brake Booster was used on the 1966-68 BMW 1600-2 and most Right Hand Drive 02s. The RHD cars with twin circuit brakes were equipped with two such units. The unit on my 67 failed, and I'm looking for a place in the US, preferably in California, which can rebuild it. I have a couple of extra units, but there are issues with them. The one which appears in best shape has a stripped thread for the brake line. The T50 remote servo - booster is also used by some Mercedes cars from the era and possibly Alfa's, although those units are not a direct fit for BMW. Rebuild kits are next to impossible to find. Yes, I can install the more familiar modern 2002 brake booster as I have all the parts including the newer pedal box, but I like the old arrangement because the engine compartment is less cramped. Does anybody have a decent one or know of a place which rebuilds them ?
  16. Hi Andrew, I vaguely remember coming across this issue when replacing heads one one of my 1600s back during the 80s. As I had a lot of hoses laying around, I found that there was a transitional period at some point during the early 70s when BMW actually manufactured a hose with a step up or step down feature. The hose in question came off a car that must have been a 70-72. So, I used a used, but good hose I had laying around from an early 70s transitional period car I had dismantled. Slavs
  17. Before BMW even made their first "Ti", the 1800ti in 1964, Alpina made its first kit for the BMW 1500 to bring it up to par in horsepower with the newly introduced BMW 1800 in 1963. When the Neu Klasse 1600 4 door came out , they applied a similar kit for that car and later to the BMW 1600-2. The early kits lacked the cylindrical air cleaner box since it wasn't yet available. Ben of 2002 AD fitted one of these very early kits to his BMW 160 Cabriolet. They were jetted and set up for the otherwise stock motors. http://www.02forum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=975&start=10
  18. Often overlooked is the exhaust manifold. If you don't have one already, get the non-smog exhaust manifold. It makes a difference in the flow and torque. It is ideally tuned for the stock resonator and muffler. You will loose bottom end and torque with the free flow exhaust on a stockish motor. Not to mention the noise. My 2 liter likes the stock exhaust, But my 1600 likes the Ansa sport resonator with a stock muffler. You can try that. I've tried the Ansa sport resonator along with Ansa sport muffler, and it was too loud. I also lost quite a bit of low end power. It is not ideal for the car. The Ansa sport twin tip muffler is also way too heavy and bulky. I gave it away nearly new. And, I'll never go that route again. But, the Ansa sport resonator is lighter than stock. It fits well. I know little about all the other exhaust systems out there. Slavs
  19. I've replace the heater valve with the box installed in the car. You just have to be careful and have a little patience. Slavs
  20. Your 1800 crank does not appear to be fully counterbalaced with 8 counterweights. It rather has 4 counterweights like the 1600 crank. The 1800 and 1800Ti were equipped with these cranks. They can be replaced with a standard 2002 fully counterbalanced crank. I doubt any machining is required. Slavs
  21. Petronix will fail with no warning. And, when they do, your engine will cut out no matter where you are. One of my friends was in the middle of an intersection making a left turn when his Petronix failed with disastrous consequences. The Petronix kits will not fit all 02 distributors. In my opinion, these things are junk.
  22. The stopping power with those monster Volvo calipers is very impressive. But, not all 13" wheels will fit over them. You'l need 14" wheels to comfortably clear them. They are a low budget solution to Brembo and Wilwood.
  23. I had the set-up on a car I owned for about a year. With braided lines, the car stopped really well. But, I thought the entire set-up along with the large 14" tires and alloys was too heavy. You can feel all that extra weight. You don't really need it on a street car, and I think it is too heavy for even a race car. If I set up one of my cars with the vented rotors, I will at least use lightweight calipers such as the aluminum Brembo calipers.

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