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Everything posted by Slavs

  1. February was a dud here in Southern California as much of the snow we had accumulated early in the season had melted away. Now we're getting Spring snow, but most of the ski areas are closed due to the Corona Virus. Mt. Baldy, though, has managed to stay open since there are no crowds. Ski lift purchases are done over the internet, the chairs are the old school twins with one person per chair etc. As far as your wide shovel boards are concerned, they are heavy, good for floating on powder, chopped up snow and un-groomed tree runs. There are plenty of those on Mt. Baldy. But, those type of skis ski you. You don't ski them. And, on a groomed GS or Super GS slope they are inferior to straight old school skis. You don't even need to groom a slope or have a ski area for those new skis. You just need a means of getting to the top of the mountain. I tried them, and I agree that they are good all mountain skis. But, I'm not a fan. I'm not even a fan of my 20 year old downhill 212cm Super GS Downhill racing skis because they have too much side cut for my taste (Turning radius 35 Meters). Skis like that should have a turning radius of about 45-60 Meters. With new skis, you can't really pick up the inside ski. You have to allow the skis to turn you. You can't turn them. It's not the way I learned to ski, nor is it the direction in which I want to go. I'm back on my 1980s era 210cm Elan RC08 GS skis. They are light and narrow, you can pick them up effortlessly when you need to, stable at high speeds and very quick through a GS course or on a groomed slope. And, they are fast on the the shallow grade slopes as well, where snow boards are useless and those new skis run out of steam. For relatively short distances, I can even run my Elan's up hill like cross country skis. And, most of all, those new skis just don't look right on an 02, where you gotta have skis almost as long as the car. February was warm with daytime temps getting into the 80s here in Southern California. I went back up to Mt. baldy in mid-month to find the parking lot at 6.400 ft. dry and almost empty. Some sight seers were in disbelief when they saw me carrying my equipment, asking "Where is the snow ?". A chair from the parking lot to the lodge at 7,800 ft. serves as the access chair to the main part of the ski area. And, there was still plenty of snow on the North facing slopes between 7.800 ft. and the top of the chair at 8,600 ft. (See Pics below). I was thinking of going to the slopes, again, away from this amoebic plague which has brought most of the world, including Los Angeles, to a standstill. It's also the only place still open for skiing and snowboarding. But, the health authorities can close it down any day. On good seasons this place has snow through the end of May.
  2. This happened to me once many years ago when my tach wire shorted with the chassis at the point where it penetrated the firewall to the engine compartment. The insulation on the wire had rubbed off, exposing the wire.
  3. John, I used Krylon Dull Aluminum Paint and Krylon Clear Coat. I figured I would use the same brand for both, paint & clear since they are compatible. Krylon is economical and a fairly inexpensive paint. But, it is decent quality. Just wet sand the wheels, rinse and dry prior to painting.
  4. John, those are perfect offset for the 02, I had no idea they made them in that offset. My wheels appear to be model number KBA 40080 13 x 5 1/2 E19 (Dated "76"). I also have a couple of wheels which are dated "73". The date mark is inside the wheel vs. on the face like the "76" wheels. The cast is slightly different in that all the edges are really sharp. The Ronal logo is larger, and the offset is not specified on the face of the wheel. When I clean the wheel, I'll probably find it on the inside. It also appears to be E19. Did you you paint them with rattle cans like I did ? It works well, if you take your time. I also applied a coat of clear. And it held up for 20 years.
  5. Beautiful Car, Jason. I'm assuming you have a 2 liter in that 1602 ?
  6. You must have slightly tweaked those BMW center hub caps to get them to fit snug. Otherwise they are a little too small in diameter to fit the wheels I have plenty of them. Maybe, that's the way to go. That's a very clean 2002. It appears to be an early 69.
  7. Drain the oil, it may have all types of metal shavings in it if the engine seized. Put it in 2nd gear and try pushing the car to turn the engine. If it doesn't turn, it's seized. Those oil pressure lights fail because of the contacts on the instrument cluster. I reach behind my cluster all the time to get it to work. Keep your fingers crossed that it's only the pulley.
  8. I have a set of Federals in 205/60 x 13 on my other car. They are available from time to time from a distributor who sells them for the Sprint racing series cars, but they are not race compound. That class mandates these street tires for whatever reason. However, they have a good stiff sidewall and handle really well, probably one of the best 205/60 x 13 tires I've ever had. It's just been difficult obtaining them. They are readily available overseas, though.
  9. I have stock brake calipers. The Volvo calipers are monsters. And, I agree with Steve about proceeding with caution. I have a couple of extra Kleeblatts. And, if you're around LA, I'll let you try them on for size over your Volvo calipers. Or, I could take a measurement of the inside diameter, if you'd like. I had Volvo calipers on another car with braided brake lines and vented rotors. It stopped like a modern car. But, I had big 14" wheels on that car. The whole set-up was heavy, though. They're probably a must if you have a 200hp car. Steve, I love those Ronal center caps on the pic. I know I'll end up paying more for them than I paid for the wheels, that is if I ever find a set. I've also seen these wheels in 14", probably intended for the NK cars, but they are also good for the 02. Somebody sold a set either here or on e-bay within the last 5-7 years. They were also made in 14" or 15" for the Alfas, but Alfas have different lug spacing.
  10. On my 69 1600 I have the 5 1/2" X 13" Versions of the same wheels that I found at the local U Pick Part for $25 / each during the late 90s when these cars were all over the wrecking yards. The original Ronal lugs are aluminum or some light alloy. They made two versions of the lug; short and tall.I never found a full set of original lugs, so I made up by using similar chrome plated steel lugs found in many auto parts stores. Each wheel has two of each. You can zoom in the photo. The anodized gold lugs are the original light alloy Ronal lugs - tall version. I never measured the the exact diameter of the original lug, but I should compare it with the new lugs which seem to fit right. They are close, if not exact. There are some posts on the FAQ relating to replacement lugs for these wheels. I tried purchasing the original lugs from Ronal USA, but they didn't have them back in 2000. I've been using 205/60 X 13 Tires, ST lowering springs and Bilstein shocks with a 22mm, 19mm sway bar set. Up front I have old school 3/8" thick - 1/2 degree camber plates which also add caster. The -1/2 degree camber plates help in tucking in the fat tires. My fender lips up front are not rolled. And, I never had any rubbing issues front or back. I rolled the fender lips in the rear back in 1990, but I shouldn't have. The rear tires would tuck in even with the fender lips left in place. The draw back of the camber plates is that when using 185/70 X 13 tires, they will slightly rub on the inside wall of the the wheel well, but only on full turn. Some brands of 205/60 X 13 s will do the same. Although, it is very minor. What is the off set of your wheels? I believe mine are either ET18 or ET19. Those 6" x 13" wheels may work, but your rear fender lips may have to be rolled, although I'm not sure. When the +1 14" and +2 15" wheels became readily available during the late 80s and early 90s, many people were throwing away wheels like this. They were no longer in vogue. That includes the Campagnolos, Cromadoras and others. That is one of the reasons they are hard to find. They ended up in the wrecking yards where most 02s and many other classics met their demise. That was sad. I've noticed, though, that the 13" wheels survived in Europe where there are more of them. The 205/60 X 13" tires are nearly 3% shorter in diameter compared to stock, but if you use the 185/60 x 13" , you will shorten your gearing by 5% compared to stock, which is quite a bit. I wouldn't recommend it. This car was my primary driver for 20 years. I may have clocked in excess of 300,000 miles on the car ( 1 full engine rebuild and 1 refreshment -matching number original block ). It's a stock 1600cc with 4 speed trans. I didn't see it as a priority spending too much on refinishing the wheels, so I just used dull aluminum rattle can Krylon with clear to refinish the wheels back in 2000. It's time to refinish them again. The car is also due for another engine rebuild this spring. I repainted it back in 2002 with a high quality, high solids single stage urethane paint (Chroma I) by Dupont. It's still holding a high gloss after spending half its life outdoors in the sun. I used 2 coats of paint, about 6-7 quarts. Paint was expensive, nearly costing $800 in materials, but the guy who sprayed it only charged me $125. He did such a good job that it didn't need color sanding. I've installed a swan neck mirror and dash, wheel and seats from a 67 I found at the wrecking yard. The top portion of the dash is not cracked. The three piece non cracked dash with all the chrome trim cost me about $30 while the wheel was about $10. I also had to replace the center console. I bought the car back in 1990 from the original owner for $900 and drove it home. Yes, I've gotten off topic, but I mention all this to illustrate just how much this hobby has changed in the direction of "Ridiculous Expensive". We had a lot of fun with these cars, and on a budget as students. I drove this car all over the state. I guess I'm just old school.
  11. Michael, that looks like a pic from the original factory brochures back in 67, complete with the factory ceiling in the background. The level of detail is impressive. It's Nirvana to the purists. Many of the pics I've seen from the day are sans the chrome exhaust tip. I think that may have been a factory accessory and probably something more common to the US market.
  12. Look at the top groove very closely. If the ring has beaten a step in the groove, it is probably worn. Measure ring play in groove with feeler gauge. You can get it checked out my machinist.
  13. That appears to be a nice paint job. And, the trim looks very clean. Color combination is nice. What type of paint ? Single stage or two stage ? What motor, trans & diff do you have in the car ? Slavs
  14. The groove for the compression ring is critical. If it is worn and out of spec, the pistons are only good for ash treys.
  15. Higher duration cams = rough idle. The higher the duration, the lumpier it gets. Not fun for everyday driving. But, most 02s these days are not everyday drivers. The factory used the stock cam on the Ti and Tii for a reason; to keep it smooth and yield acceptable MPG.
  16. In my case the bracket was designed to bolt to the floor and trans tunnel vie 4 bolts. They just used 2 bolts, and the bracket sat too low by about 3/16". It also sat a little towards the passenger side. Even after bolting it to the chassis properly, it was still a little low, so I used a washer as a spacer between the transmission and the trans mount on the bracket. But, it still sat too far right. I slightly slotted the hole on the bracket to where the rubber trans mount bolts. The problem with some of the kits is that the jigs they use to make them get misaligned. And, I suspect not all our cars are alike. I don't have a hoist, and it took some time resolving the problem. I slowly and incrementally raise the car with a hydraulic jack on to wooden blocks to a height of about 2 feet.
  17. I had to realign my driveshaft. It was a 5 speed conversion done, under the previous owner, by a shop in Los Angeles using a kit. They just bolted the kit on without checking alignment. The misalignment resulted in vibration and a destroyed guibo. The kit is pretty robust and a pretty good design. It's just that the workers didn't take their time installing it.
  18. I'll buy the turn signal flasher relay, if still available. I'm in LA.
  19. Don;t despair those original single line calipers and pads are more common than you think. First of all, if their internals are not terribly corroded, they can be rebuilt. A shop out here in Los Angeles rebuilt a set for me for about $40 each. The pistons are still available and are standard metric sizes and parts used by many other European car manufacturers. These identical calipers were used on many Alfa's and other marques. I've personally taken them off Alfa Romeo Alfetta sedans from the mid 70s at the junk yards. The calipers and brake pads are all over the internet. The brake pads were used by Alfas, Porsches and Volvos. They are very cheap and common. A properly working stock brake system works quite well for normal driving. If you ever need to rebuild the stubby 66-67 master brake cylinder mounted to the pedal box, you can use a rebuild kit from a very similar Alfa Brake MC. It is available from Centerline Alfa for under $20, Kit #BK382. The Brake MC bore is 22mm and really simple and fairly easy to clean and hone. The 68 1600s have a unique Brake MC which is also mounted to the pedal box, but it is longer and requires a unique rebuilt kit I have yet to find.
  20. Michael, I don't know exactly when they stopped manufacturing that muffler and resonator. Yes, the resonator is specific to the muffler. Note the angle of the inlet to the muffler. It is different from the later mufflers as it is angled to one side rather than straight. So the resonator must also match this angle. I've seen the muffler in question pop up for sale from time to time as a NOS part. And, not long ago I've seen the resonator up for sale somewhere on the Internet, but I don't remember where. I have the muffler which was removed from a 69 1600 with 90K original miles on the clock about 20 years ago. I don't know if I have the resonator. When they were removing the exhaust they didn't bother separating the muffler from the resonator by undoing the clamp, but rather cut them apart. Yes, there are people who do such things.The muffler looks OK externally, I don't know if it's still good internally. I'll take a look as I haven't looked at the things in a while. I'm assuming you're looking for this exhaust system for your 1600Ti.
  21. Why add stencils or labels to the dash when they were not meant to be there by the factory in the first place ? They are a result of US regulations, only. The icons on the knobs, which are understood universally, are more than enough to identify their functions . I don't think the 66 1600s even had the icons, but I'm not entirely sure. By 67, though, they were in place.
  22. Well, Like Chris explained, the judging criteria was broad and flexible. Which is OK ! Nothing wrong with that as it is flexible enough to give more people the opportunity to win awards and have fun. But, when commanding such premium prices, I expect more from a so called "restoration" effort.
  23. I'm no longer that broke college student with the 1968 BMW 1600 in Manilla which I purchased for $500 back in 1982. I drove it home. But, the way things are going these cars will be reserved for only those with "deep pockets". Given my experience, I identify more with the broke college student. Now, I understand that a high quality paint with top quality materials will put you back about $20K these days. And, I've seen a lot of these so called "restorations" with cheap paint. Shiny cheap paint may fool a lot of people, but I can spot cheap paint easily. I wonder just what type of materials they used in painting this car. If the attention to detail is anywhere as sloppy as it was with regards to some of the things I pointed to already, I don't have much confidence in the paint or the builder. I don't consider myself ruthless, but if you're going to command $40K for a 1600, I'll meticulously go through the car with a fine tooth comb and point to every inconsistency.
  24. So, how many of you guys would be willing to fork out $40K for this thing ?? Another Cracker Jack with a rusted heap of a 1600 will now list it for $20K, claiming it’s a bargain. That’s what they are doing with the classic Porsches. And the insanity continues. Personally, I can’t wait until the prices come back to some semblance of reality, as they did with some other Marques.
  25. Chris and Elan, you guys have confirmed my hunch. It's a different type of judging. And somebody was willing to fork out in excess of $40K for this car. What can I say ? I'm not impressed, nor would I pay over $10K for this thing. Maybe I'm behind times. I don't know.
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