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Slavs

Solex
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Slavs last won the day on January 14

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  1. Given the uniqueness of these early cars, I would have left the car all stock if I was the previous owner. Maybe I would have just tightened up the suspension a little bit. My car is an example of what happened to most of these early cars. According to the previous owner the BMW shops were often the driving force, convincing him to OK! the "Upgrades". They kept the original motor, telling him it was just way too under-powered and sold him a stock 2 liter. When the Solex carb went "South" they sold him on the Weber 38/38. And. that carb was a very bad match for the motor. The torque range was decreased where it was all or nothing. I'm pretty good with carbs, and from my experience I think that a properly jetted and choked set of DCOE sidedrafts feel a lot better, even on a stock motor. So, that's the first thing I replaced, opting for a 32/36 and eventually fitting an original Solex 40 PDSI. Upon examining the electrical a little closer I'm convinced most of it was borrowed from a 68-69 era 1600 or 2002. This makes sense as the conversion was performed at an 02 shop which also doubled as an 02 wrecking yard. They also removed the original front seats, replacing them with later seats with headrests. I got rid of them and installed a pair of seats I removed from a 66 1600 which I found at the boneyard. I've been going through this car while attempting to bring back as much of its original character as possible. Next in line is the motor. Thanks to a good lad on this FAQ who donated a factory replacement 1600 block with no serial numbers, a very nice crank and early transmission. I'm assembling a motor for it with NOS Mahle pistons and a NOS 1600 118 head. I'll probably be one of the very few people to be removing a 5 speed OD and replacing it with an early 4 speed Porsche syncroe box. I can always throw the 5 speed and 2 liter into a later car such as a 74 02 I have laying around, parked for years. I think I'll tackle the electrical to revert it to 6 volt. That's my vision for the car. As far as the 6V to 12V switch, some BMWs such as the NK2000Ti were 12V in 66, but others were still 6V. I think the 1800ti was still 6V. And the 1600-2 seems to have been 6V all the way through 67. Slavs
  2. Thanks for the explanation, Mike. I can crunch numbers, just need to educate myself with electricity. Higher amperage required to achieve same wattage with 6V system requires thicker wires, makes sense. I should have grabbed all the 6V parts when these cars littered the junkyards. Those parts are pretty rare, now. The wheels are English Cosmic wheels from the period. They are 5 1/2" x 13" with ET19 offset. But, they were also made in a narrower size.
  3. Yes, its Bristol Grey. Thanks for your input.
  4. I have an early 67 1600 where the previous owner had, unfortunately , done a number of "Upgrades" to the car. The 6V electrical was converted to 12V. He also dropped in a 2L motor and 320i overdrive and converted the 4.11 diff to limited slip. The car drives well, but I've had issues with the negative terminal which I'm always cleaning. I started to look at the electrical wiring and noticed that the old original 6V voltage regulator was left in place. I'm using a 12V battery, bulbs and instruments. And he also installed a Bosch 90amp Alternator with internal voltage regulator as used on the 1985-92 VW Golf and Jetta. So, what is my 6V regulator doing at this point ? I'm not an electrical guru, and I was wondering what is it that is done during the 6V to 12V conversion ? Are the same wires left in place while the bulbs , instruments and other electrical components are replaced ? Or is it that the wiring harness must also be replaced. Before I acquired this car, it was passed around various BMW specialists in Southern California who performed the conversions. Unfortunately, the original motor was lost during the process. I've been seriously considering reverting back to the stock drive train and electrical on this car while leaving in place the mild suspension upgrades. And, I was trying to figure out what exactly was done to the wiring , if anything. Slavs
  5. I wonder how many people retrofitted their 1600s with the ribbed valve cover or the other way around ? There is no way of knowing. My gut instinct tells me that the ribbed cover was retrofitted to some early cars because it may have been considered as a cosmetic upgrade at some time. BMW may have a record of the transition, or it may have become random on the assembly line during 1967. I don't think it was deemed important enough to record based on the serial number like a change from long neck diff to short neck or a switch from single circuit brakes to dual circuit etc. These cars also seemed to have shared the assembly line with their NK sedan cousins which by 1968 were equipped with the ribbed covers, from what I have seen. There is more crossover in parts between the NK cars and the 66-67 1600s than with later 02s. And the old style valve cover was definitely a handover from the early NK sedans.
  6. Don't despair. Calm down and take a break. Start with finding an optimum adjustment for the front rail which is a part of the triangular window frame. The window frame is fastened to to the door in many locations and you got to loosen all the bolts and nuts. Compare to the other door and the spacing between the frame and the weatherstrip. This front window frame is one of your variables. The other main variable is the frame at the rear of the window. In addition to the two 10mm bolts which fasten the rail to the door at the bottom of the door, there is also a bolt mid way up and at the top. The one at the top is your final adjustment. Loosen it along with the one mid way up and pivot the rail forward. Tighten the bolt while holding the rail forward. If window is too tight, loosen the bolt and make small adjustments. As somebody mentioned, the window stops actually play an important part. I've adjusted many windows for 02s. They did it all by hand at the factory. Those guys must have really gotten a hang of it. Slavs
  7. Niki Lauda's 175HP Alpina 1600. Who dare suggest 1600s are meek ?
  8. Anytime, Danco. I'm in Burbank. I'll send you my contact info.
  9. This color combination Brown / Black interior is slightly different from the later Brown / Black color combination in that the Brown is darker. The carpets were brown, but certainly not a loud or bright brown. They were tightly woven and thin. There are the carpet experts here who can weigh in. This interior was usually installed on Florida, Manilla and Chamonix cars since it complimented those exterior colors well. I have a couple sets of these interior panels in excellent condition laying around (Part of my old junk yard stash where I picked them up for $5 each). I took one of them off a solid and rust free 1968 Manilla 1600. It had a perfect non-dented nose section and grills. This was during the mid-90s at Pick- A - Part. They even offered me the complete car for $500 with a salvage title. I'm certain that car got crushed along with hundreds of other 02s I've seen in those places. And now we're paying over $24K for these things ? I thought about installing those panels on my Bristol or Granada which have worn out black panels. But, I don't think the colors will work well together. I don't know. Perhaps somebody can weigh in on the interior/ exterior color combinations used by BMW ? Yes, I'm pissed I can no longer run down to the local Pick- A -Part and rummage through 02s and Neu Klasse cars. Parts cost next to nothing. It was a goldmine. It was a time you can do it all on a budget, if you were willing to put a little elbow grease into it. The interiors and trim were easiest to remove. It was fun. Many collectors were after "Muscle"cars at the time, and they frowned down on the Bimmers. The Porsches and Alfas were already getting pricey, and most of those people could have cared less for old BMWs. The "Collectors" and snobs weren't interested. That's why they littered the Pick- A -Part junk yards, but, no more. Now they are presented with their "Patina" and "Swan Neck" mirrors. It must those 356 snobs who have hijacked us. Only they know about all those very particular details that sets apart the Pre-A 356 from the rest of the crowd. Yes, classic BMW's are a bargain for people willing to fork out $200K + for a 1966-67 short wheelbase 2.0L 911. One guy purchased an unrestored TISA for $75K and was bragging to his Porsche buddies of what a bargain it was. All those poor Neu Klasse 1800Ti and 2000Ti cars I saw at the bone yards ! They have been crushed and molten into Toyotas. This is no longer fun and cheap like it was back in the day. Slavs
  10. Yep ! us 1600 pilots were the underdogs in the 02 world. And, as I suspected, some of the transitioning occurred during the 67 model year production. But, getting back to the main point; this car does not leave a $24K impression with me. It's all gotten out of control and heading towards the Porsche territory. The student, average "Joe" working class or even the "Middle Class" will no longer be able to own these things. It's not the way I remember these cars where as an 18 year old student I purchased my first 1600 back in 1982 for $500 and drove it home, using it as basic transportation for the next ten years. It had the same interior, only cleaner with no cracks on the seats or dash. Lost in Time, Slavs
  11. My opinions are certainly not representative of the mainstream here. But, I've seen a good number of these early BMW 1600s over the last four decades. And, this one is an unadulterated representative of some of the cars I've seen up for sale during the 80s and 90s. They were never very common, but they were cheaper than their 2 liter counterparts. A car like this went for $1,000 - $2,000, but usually closer to $1,000 than $2,000. Many people asked $1,600 just for kicks. Real BMW "Men" drove 2002s while the 1600 was shunned as a "Chick's" car or a car you passed on to the college student for basic transportation. And, in most cases nobody had anything positive to say; "Oh you have no head rests, those are not safe seats...Are you going to convert to 12V...Are you going to drop in a 2L...Are you going to convert to hydraulic clutch etc." I'm glad these very early cars and their clean lines are finally appreciated. Most ended up at the wrecking yards or being converted to 2002 specs. But, for me this is still a $1,600 car as that is the period when I was imprinted. I paid $900 for a similar car in 1990. Perhaps I'm just an anachronism and this is a very different world, now. But, from your description and based on gut instinct, this car was found sitting somewhere and bought cheap before it was refreshed, but not restored, and presented with its "Patina" . All the oil, soot and grime which was removed from under the car protected it from the elements. Now, it's naked. I'm not sold on the price or the presentation, but obviously some people are. As far as these cars are concerned the market has moved on from the world I'm more familiar with back in the day. A few things I've noticed: 1. One of the trailing arms has been replaced with a later version which has the tab for the rear sway bar. 67 and 68 1600s were not equipped with a rear sway bar nor did they have provisions to mount one. But, they did have the fixtures to mount a front sway bar. 2. Most 67 1600s I've seen came equipped with the license plate lights mounted in the rear bumper. But, this car seems to have been retrofitted with a newer rear bumper and license plate lights mounted on the rear panel. Maybe the license plate lights transitioned from bumper to rear panel during 67, but I don't think so. 3. The carpet is not original or anything resembling original. 4. The valve cover is a later style. 67s were equipped with the older style valve cover. 5. That looks like a later replacement Pierburg fuel pump for a 2002. The 1600s had a specific fuel pump. Equipping a 1600 with a 2002 fuel pump overloads the carb. 6. Why did someone install an additional later style one way brake vacuum check valve on the booster line when there is already an older style valve located on the manifold ? This car does not pass my $24K scrutiny. Slavs
  12. This is a very informative and comprehensive article. Thanks for the research and thorough explanation. Slavs
  13. My condolences to your friend, he certainly had good taste. I suggest you sell those cars complete and not part them out. While not the fastest, they are both examples of the most elegant BMWs produced during the era. The 2000CS appears complete and restorable. A lot of the sheet metal from the later coupes and repair sections are available aftermarket. The 2000CS is no slouch, but its styling and elegance is unmatched by anything BMW produced since. If I was closer to you I would certainly be interested.
  14. This is a very interesting topic. There is a lot to be said about the German industry and manufacturing process. If a lower pH is associated with the anodic dipping process, this translates to an acidic process. While the higher pH numbers associated with the catonic process suggest a more alkali process. I imagine moving too extreme in each direction, especially in the direction of acidic would not be too healthy for the metal. The fact that BMW made this effort in the first place is impressive. But, it falls in line with the German industry's attention to treating metal or steel such as surface hardening, where they excelled. In regards to classic BMW's being prone to rust, they actually rusted less compared to the Japanese Datsuns. They rusted faster than anything. Well the later Alfas are prone to really rust as well. The even coat of primer probably resulted in a very clean and even final finish. Thanks for the info, Robert. SLavs
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