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Everything posted by mike

  1. I too had my oil cap come loose but Kar Karma must have been with me...it slid down the valve cover and lodged on the intake manifold, next to the carburetor. I had a heck of a mess to clean up, but didn't have to find a new oil cap. I bent the clamping ears down a bit and it hasn't come loose since. mike
  2. If you've never experienced the Ridge Run, you should. I think Jason Gipson knows every back road in northern Kentucky and has laid out a route that will challenge both your '02 and your driving ability. Great scenery--and camaraderie too. Not to be missed. mike
  3. Coupla thoughts... Was it stored indoors or outdoors? That makes a difference... The trunk picture shows what looks like the remains of a huge rodent nest...mouse pee is more corrosive than road salt, so check under the seats, under the plywood trunk boards, inside the glovebox etc Unless the car spent the last 30 years in the Atcama Desert, there's gonna be rust somewhere. It's what 2002s do. Even a leaky master cylinder will rust out the driver's side frame rail. That being said, little rust and lots of mechanical work is much better than rusty and running. Any car that sat for 30 years is gonna need a lot of mechanical help, but that's much easier than repairing rust! BTW, a Riviera car would have had a dark blue or black interior, not saddle...so either the car was originally another color (Malaga, Agave, Sahara) or someone swapped the interior. mike PS-those scrunched grilles and bent nose are gonna be close to a grand in parts if the grilles can't be straightened...a dickering point.
  4. PM me--I just did a Roundel column that described how we reinstalled the hood on a regular 2002 sedan--they're the same as on a Targa. mike
  5. Was the pop-up deflector ever shown in any of the US accessory catalogs? I have a very early catalog (actually a brochure) that I got when I bought my car in May '69,and a couple of later ones from '72 or 73 and they're not shown--only the fixed plexi ones. Doncha love this trivia? mike
  6. Originally these deflectors came with four plastic pieces that were attached to the four "bumps" on the underside, leading edge of the sunroof panel. You have to drill holes in the inner sunroof sheet metal to install them. They bear against the plastic pieces on the deflector itself to prevent rattles. AFAIK those bits are still available from Porsche. Steve--thanks for the explanation of when they were available from BMW dealers; I don't remember ever seeing a 2002 with one until I came across one in a 76 sitting in a country junkyard east of Oklahoma City back in the early 90s. And that's still the only one I've seen that actually came with the car. Both my '02s have deflectors salvaged from Porsche 911's back in the early 80s, and they fit perfectly with no modifications. mike PS--if yours doesn't pop up as you open the sunroof, a little lubrication will help. I have to lubricate mine every year or so to keep 'em moving properly
  7. To see if the previous ham-fist owner added jury rigged intermittent wipers, the quick way to check is to see if the wiper relay has seven terminals vs six. If you need the wiring diagram for adding intermittent wipers to a '72 or '73 with the turn signal stalk PM me as I re-created the original factory wiring on my '73 around 1987 and it's been working fine ever since... Remember that the right side steering column stalk on a '73 governs turn signals, wiper on/off, wash/wipe, and on-street parking lights when the ignition is off... that's a lotta wires. mike
  8. + many comments on rust....that's your #1 concern when it comes to a Rescue Bimmer, 2002 variety. It's usually '76s that have Flintstonemobile floors due to poor quality seam sealer on the drain plugs in the front floorboards. Besides those floorboards and previously mentioned inner frame rails (not the rockers, the inner frame rails) also examine the inner fender arches in the trunk. Badly rusted ones are usually what consigns an '02 to the parts car category. As for the "rod knock" other than race cars, rod bearing failure is very uncommon on M10 motors, so it may well be something else masquerading as a rod knock...and BTW, at least from the picture, it doesn't look like a factory color; but that's the least of your worries! Keep us posted... mike
  9. I'm sure you have one, but make sure the ground from the engine block to a convenient place on the body (since you have a trunk-mounted battery) is at least the same size as the battery to body ground. The starter motor draws more current than all the other accessories on the car combined (unless you have a 1000 watt amp), so that's important. Otherwise the starter current draw will return to the battery via the accelerator linkage--not a good way. mike
  10. Sorry,folks. The auction is over and although bid to $220k, it didn't meet reserve... BTW, Isettas also used a similar built-up crankshaft with a roller rod bearing... mike
  11. Bother, hell! That would scare the you-know-what out of me...aluminum surrounded by steel with sideways loading? That could not have been factory! At least they weren't pop rivets! And those "special bolts"--DO NOT use anything else. They're a bitch to remove as those shallow heads make rounding off easy, and they're difficult to get a wrench on to boot. Use a 6 point socket if at all possible. When you reassemble: fill the space where the ball joint nut/stud is located with wheel bearing grease so the parts won't rust (as quickly) and you'll be able to get 'em apart without heat, cutoff wheels etc. Torque the ball joint bolts to the proper figures put some anti seize paste on the "special bolt" threads for the same reason torque those bolts to the factory specs, and safety wire 'em. When I last did that job, I torqued the bolts to the proper figures and safety wired 'em. When I felt some looseness in the front end, it turned out the bolts had loosened slightly--and would have backed out were it not for the safety wire. mike
  12. It appears the center tab on the spring has broken, correct? If you have access to a propane torch, you can heat the end of the spring and bend a new tab with pliers. Or see if someone on the FAQ has a lift mechanism that's broken elsewhere. Those center springs rarely break; it's usually their bracket or one of the pivots on the lift arm. If you can either repair the existing spring or find another, PM me for a column I did on how to repair the damaged center spring holder and/or the pivots. mike
  13. Make sure you tell your Dad about the FAQ so he can also ask questions while he continues your rebuild while you're in school. Lucky you for having a Dad who's willing to do this! And believe me when I tell you everone on the FAQ made mistakes with their first engine rebuild, unless they had an experienced mentor helping. My first engine rebuild included poured rod bearings, and my mentor (my future father in law) taught me how to hand-lap the bearings to fit the re-ground crank. He learned mechanicking before there was such a thing as thin shell bearings. I still have that can of bearing lapping paste...just in case... mike
  14. +1 If you've ever noticed the dirt and crud that builds up on the rear body panel (especially if your engine burns a bit of oil), you'll know that a weak trailing edge trunk seal can pull fumes into the trunk from that low pressure area (good excuse to add a trunk spoiler!). And the seal between trunk and passenger cabin has lotsa holes, so that may be your source. Or just allergies... mike
  15. I've noticed that over the year those armrests fade differently than the upholstery vinyl (black excepted!). My tobacco and caramel (saddle?) interiors on my '69 and '73 respectively have armrests that are noticeably different colors from the seat and door panel vinyl, and they weren't when new. I suspect the same thing happens to the blue interiors also. mike
  16. At least in the United Methodist Hymnal, there really is a hymn 2002... mike
  17. The exhaust system and the driveshaft--and the left side axle shaft--are in close proximity--if the exhast isn't perfectly positionioned and tightly mounted, it may rub against either the driveshaft or the left axle. Check the center muffler/pipe for tightness, the front mount (bolts to the rear of the tranny) and make sure the muffler hangers are in good shape, both the rubber hangers and plastic spacers. A loose exhaust can set up an awful racket mike
  18. Are the fuses you refer to the original low beam fuses in the car's fusebox (presume this is a squarelight, with separately fused low beams). If that's the case....those cartridge fuses actually wear out (besides corroding), so try cleaning the spring brass fuse clips and installing new fuses; see if that helps. If the new headlights have their own fuses, please advise so we can provide further guesses, uh, ideas... mike
  19. What are the front and sway bar diameters? Also, urethane sway bar bushings make the bars responsive more rapidly than do rubber bushings--inexpensive and easy to install. mike
  20. I've had 'em bad when they were new out of the box... And...since you've had a thermostat out recently, you know it has two valves internally that open in tandem. When cold, coolant is routed past the radiator but (IIRC) through the heater core to allow for cabin heat to occur sooner. Removing the heater core from the system may well upset that dual thermostat's operation...as the system was designed to have a heater (no heater delete for tropical countries to my knowledge). That cold lower hose--after the car has reached operating temperature--is either a defective thermostat or water pump. mike
  21. +1--those emery wheels will cut through about anything, including ball bearing races. They're very brittle and will shatter if even a little bit side loaded, so wear eye protection but they're highly useful for all sorts of cutting jobs on a restoration. mike
  22. +1 on dismantling to learn more about 2002s...and... One more suggestion: look for a good body shell--perhaps someone else's abandoned restoration project, or a stripped but un (structurally) rusted shell--then use the useful mechanical bits from your current car and make a good one out of the two. Dismantling the current car will give you lots of experience with the car's innards, which will come in handy regardless of how you find your next '02. Don't be discouraged--as was pointed out, better to earn now that you're facing a difficult-to-impossible task than after you've put a lot of time, money and sweat into the project. And there's plenty of help here on the FAQ. mike
  23. The last picture you posted--of the right rear suspension mounting point is downright scary. I would not be driving this car until that is repaired--double that if the left side is just as bad. You can buy a complete inner wheel arch new, or cut one from a parts car, or if you're a good welder,fabricate patches yourself. But it must be repaired if you're planning to drive this car. Do this, and any other structural rust repairs(inner rockers, subframes, etc) before doing any mechanical work, as it may turn out you have a parts car... mike
  24. What happened to the original chassis ground bolt? At least on roundies, the ground bolt is on the inner fender well, as the battery box is bolted to the car's body--not a good ground path, as has been pointed out. You should be able to find a bolt that threads into something that's directly attached to the body shell that's within range of your ground strap. mike
  25. I wonder if there's a double-ended barbed elbow fitting that could be used. Need to pay my local hardware store a visit with a spare elbow and see if there's a brass doppelganger... mike

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