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Everything posted by mike

  1. This one's a lot more reasonably priced (at least so far) and is up for bid with no reserve...https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1975-bmw-2002-45/ See if you can figure out whether this car was originally black (should have had a grey interior) or has been repainted. There was some discussion it had been Golf, but Golf cars didn't come with a buckskin interior--at least not to my knowledge. mike
  2. Can't decide if it's dirty Chamonix or faded and chalky Nevada. Regardless, I'll bet that paint will clean up remarkably with some attention and elbow grease. FYI, you can buy patch panels for the rear quarter wheel opening lips, or you can patch the bad spot on your car by cutting the appropriate piece from an otherwise rusted or damaged front fender... Keep us apprised. mike
  3. Something ain't right...if the engine sits too high and at the same time the oil pan touches the subframe. Are you sure the urethane engine mount(s) aren't de-laminating? There's been a lot of chatter on the FAQ about urethane engine mount failures...And did you inspect the left (driver's) side engine mount bracket? They've been known to crack, and the early, one piece right side mount brackets definitely will stress crack over the years, and as it does, it will lower the engine on that side until the valve cover hits the hood... mike
  4. Hoo doggies! You got what most of us just wish for...an abandoned project where all the hard work has been completed! Looks like it's the fun part for you to finish. Will you have it finished in time for Mid America and/or Vintage? cheers and welcome back to the '02 fold. I wouldn't have turned that one down either! mike PS--I just went through reinstalling the rear quarter windows and their *^%$#@++ rubber gaskets. PM me if you'd like some guidance.
  5. Hi Dave I feel your pain--my '69 has rust in exactly the same spot--a legacy of 30 Ohio winters before I retired it from daily use. Bring yours down some weekend, I'll unlimber my MIG welder and we'll fix it. Your pop rivet repair is perfectly adequate for the nonce and will keep the metal lines from vibrating (and possibly fracturing). The rust was caused by the bracket being spot welded to the inner fender well and then covered by the factory schutz. As with the trailing edge of the front fenders, when the schutz bond to the metal failed, moisture crept in and rusted the joint, which stayed moist due to the schutz covering. Another spot that does this is on the right rear quarter, about halfway between the wheel opening and the rear panel, A small bracket is welded to the quarter panel and to the metal trunk floor, presumably to stiffen the panel a bit. It's very vulnerable to rust, and will cause blistering and an eventual hole in that panel, seemingly without a cause until you look underneath the car and spot the remains of the bracket. When I re-did my '69 the first time, I simply cut the bracket away at both ends and welded up the hole--that was over 30 years ago and the quarter panel hasn't fallen off yet! mike
  6. To expand on Steve's comments on "year of manufacture" the problem has arisen from BMW's proclivity to count VINs by calendar year versus the more common-in-the-US model year. Generally speaking, US model years begin on 1 Sept. Thus your tii, assembled in December 1971 is referred to by BMW as a "1971 2002tii", while in the US, since it was assembled after Sept 1971, it would be referred to--and officially titled--as a 1972. My '73 '02 was assembled in Dec 1972, but has all the detail differences that differentiate a '72 2002 from a '73, and was titled from new as a '73. Same with your tii. It's an early 72 by US reckoning, assembled in December 1971. Regardless, it's a 2002, so welcome to the fraternity/sorority. Keep us posted on what you're doing with yours. cheers mike
  7. In the 2002 world, a 2002 is an '' '02". A "deuce" is a '32 Ford hot rod (as in the Beach Boys song, "Little Deuce Coupe." Looks like whatcha got is a very original '71 that hasn't been messed with much--I can see it still has the front spring spacers in place, and can see some of the emission stuff laying atop the block. I'd wager the block is the original one--the engine number will be on a machined pad just above where the starter motor is bolted to the block--and if it matches the VIN, it's the original. Welcome to the '02 fraternity/sorority. If your Dad is engine savvy, him and a machine shop can make pretty short work of an engine rebuild. Don't be shy about asking questions, lotsa knowledge on this board. mike
  8. Me too...and I still get a big grin every time I get behind the wheel of a 2002... mike
  9. This resistance wire wasn't used on roundies, just squarelights. And AFAIK all roundies came originally with a black Bosch coil, which requires a resistor. Dave Hoovler's decription (above) WRT the ceramic resistor's mount is how all the roundies were equipped. mike
  10. Yet another original owner! Congrats on preserving another '02 for four and a half decades! mike
  11. Interesting...Saoirse, your car appears to be a Euro version, or at least made to look like one (no front side reflectors, Euro style headllight covers [dog dishes]) so that may be the difference. Dave, I know your car is a US version, but my Feb '69 US version doesn't have that separate fuse for the hazard light circuit; in fact, one of the six fuses in the regular fuse box is labeled for the hazard lights. A new mystery! Other owners of 68-71 cars (166/167xxxx VINs)--do you have this extra fuse? This is a new one on me... mike
  12. Only roundies have that big ole round relay for the horn (only). If you look to the left of the relay in your picture, you'll see a small hole; that's to mount an additional relay (the adjacent brackets overlap and use the same screw) for the factory fog light kit. In the same location, squarelights have a rack that contains four relays . mike
  13. Definitely vintage construction! Put a couple more 2x6's across the garage's width to support the load, and some plywood sheets and you'll have a nice loft for all those spare parts. I gradually decked in my garage attic some years ago, then added a pulldown stairway and now have 400 sq ft of storage for car stuff and Carol's Christmas and seasonal garden decorations. And it's full! Stuff always expands to fill any available space... mike
  14. If you have the July 1983 (or maybe '84, it was awhile ago!) it has my very first Roundel article, called "Iophobia." That means "a fear of rust." and you'll see pictures of my '69 when I first started addressing its accumulated rust. I didn't start my column until 1994. mike
  15. On the other hand, my two cars' idler arms are original at 226k and 266k miles and neither feel worn, so... you really won't know 'till you isolate the idler arm from the rest of the steering linkage and check for wear... mike
  16. I've been storing cars in unheated, detached garages for many years and fortunately haven't had a rodent problem...yet. I do cover my cars with a lightweight cotton or other breathable fabric cover--old sheets or bedspreads work just fine. I wouldn't cover a dirty car, as dragging the cover off and on a dirty car will scratch the paint. An effective way to keep rodents from getting through gaps--either in your car or the building--is to use coarse steel wool to plug small holes, and either hardware cloth or expanded metal mesh (comes in rolls for gutters) to cover larger holes, like the snorkel intake for your air cleaner, or under the heater plenum chamber inlet slots in your hood--and don't forget the exhaust pipe. Mice won't chew into steel wool or hardware cloth. That's been working for me not only on my cars, but on houses, where mice get from the basement into the living quarters through old plumbing or electrical access holes in the floor. mike
  17. I've done 18 fewer than Matt...and did only the suspension bushings and lower ball joints, as my Bilsteins were in the good shape as were my steering links. Not including the cleaning and painting time--and making the bushing pullers (plastic plumbing pipe, thick washers and big bolts & nuts) about 5-6 hours per side. That doesn't include extracting rusted and disintegrating ball joint nuts from inside the steering knuckles, or easing out the three "bitch bolts" that hold the strut to the ball joint mount (none of mine broke, thank goodness). Those will add time to your work schedule. It isn't a difficult job so long as you're patient and have the means to extract broken fittings. I did both my cars over successive winters when I wasn't driving 'em anyway, so took my time. mike PS--when you pull the strut housings, if you find the lower spring cups are full of dirt and rust, open out the drain holes a bit; they're way too small to allow even small pebbles to fall out, and dirt will quickly accumulate in those cups, causing rust.
  18. Pay close attention to Steve's post above--ya gotta know whatcha got before you proceed to whatcha want. Depending on the mileage of your car (and with a 5 digit odometer, you don't know if it's rolled over one or more times) and if all the major components (engine block & head) are original to the car (easily determined by the engine #, which should match the car's VIN, and the date on the head casting) the engine may never have been opened or may have been overhauled. --or just freshened. If the block number is different--and especially if it isn't a 2002 block number, all bets are off. The same block was used in NK sedans, in E21 and E30 Three series--and in five different displacements. Plenty of help and advice from folks on the board, don't be shy about asking. And welcome to the '02 fraternity/sorority. mike
  19. Others may disagree, but from my experience you don't need an angle torque gauge for an M10 engine, as their head bolts are torqued with a simple torque wrench--in the proper sequence and ft/lbs, of course. Your shop manual will give you all the details. Angle torquing is for much newer BMW engines. mike
  20. Try Steve Petersen at BluntTech or Paul Wegweiser at Maxmillian...they'll getcha the right part. Be prepared with the engine number just to make sure, since it's not the engine that's original to your '72. mike
  21. Remember, these panels are cardboard with some sort of pebble-grain finish embossed onto the finished side. Even a little scuffing with a Scotchbrite pad will wear through that finish, exposing and fuzzing up the cardboard underneath. Were I doing it, I'd get some OOOO steel wool and just lightly rub the finished side. I wouldn't use any liquid--or if you must, do it very sparingly so you don't saturate the cardboard. Once prepped, paint with some semi-gloss black. If the original finish is in good shape, I'd leave 'em alone. mike
  22. USAF, 1966-1997, active, to Vietnam, and reserve, then called up for Desert Storm in 1991 (went to Oklahoma--by 2002!) mike
  23. From your pictures, it looks like you have an antenna that was used on late model VW Beetles (the old, air-cooled ones) and also on some older Honda Civics and Accords from the 70s. It'll fit and work OK, and was probably installed when the original one got broken and either the OEM style was unavailable or too expensive vs the VW/Honda universal replacement. From your description, the one you ordered--at least without seeing a picture or maker's name) sounds like the original antenna that was used on 2002s when they were new--either a Bosch (Blaupunkt) with a blue plastic tip, or a Hirshmann with a red plastic tip. All 2002 radios were dealer installed, and that's the one they used if they were doing a proper job. You had to be careful with the install if your car had a sunroof, as it was easy to drill through the A pillar drain tube when making holes to install the antenna. mike
  24. + 1. Jim and I are both in the Dayton area and own first cousin Sahara '73 sunroof cars...and lots more in Cincinnati and Columbus. Welcome to the fraternity/sorority. Now's the time to make plans to attend next April's Mid America '02Fest in Eureka Springs, AR. We have a caravan leaving from Dayton the day before, so you'll be traveling with a bunch of other 02ers with tools, parts and knowledge (no problems at all this year!)--and a fun route through KY and the Ozarks. Mid America is like the FAQ but in person--73 2002s in 2019. Watch for caravan announcements on the FAQ in late Feb/early March. mike
  25. What about a hidden cutoff switch that kills power to either the coil, the starter, or both. While that won't prevent the car being towed away, neither will a steering lock. You could also install a solenoid valve that cut the flow of gas to the carb, also controlled by a hidden switch. That would allow the car to be driven a few hundred feet before it would stall out and the would-be thief would most likely abandon it. mike
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