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mike

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About mike

  • Birthday January 29

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  1. You're in luck--I just did a column on 72-73 emergency flasher switch troubleshooting, and figured out which wire goes where: terminal # on flasher goes to 49 terminal 49 on flasher relay 30 pin 2 on instrument cluster plug, to fuse 8; terminal 5 on t/s switch R t/s switch terminal 7; fuse 6 L t/s switch terminal 4; fuse 5 P 85 apparently not used 58D " " " 31 " " " 15 t/s switch terminal 2 49a terminal 49a on flasher relay fuse 8 is always hot (powers emergency flashers) fuse 5 hot only with ign on (left turn signal) fuse 6 hot only with ign on (right turn signal) terminal 30 on the hazard switch also powers the interior light as that terminal is hot all the time. Hope that helps mike
  2. By "guide" do you mean the hydraulic shock mounts that hold the bumper blade to the body structure? If so, it should be a simple matter to look up inside the left wheel well and inspect the bracket that's welded atop the original frame rail that was added on US squarelights to raise the bumper to its mandated height and provide strength for the designed 5 mph impact. If that bracket is wrinkled (or the frame rail beneath it) then you have a problem, but that setup is pretty sturdy so I'll wager you'll only find a loose bolt, either at the bumper end or where the shock is bolted to the frame rail. mike
  3. Yeah, you're probably right--and it would make a nifty table lamp! I've never seen an M10 crank cracked like that either... mike
  4. We have (or perhaps had) a shop here in Dayton that specialized in welding up cracked/broken engine blocks and repairing crankshafts, so there's a good possibility that somewhere in greater LA there's a similar shop. Most cater to the trucking industry, where saving a crankshaft is a much bigger deal than it is with a car crank. Might be worth a call to see if that might be less expensive than finding a replacement M10 crank. I watched a shop here rebuilding a six foot diameter gear wheel for a punch press--welding up a crack in the hub, and rebuilding all the gear teeth. It was from a punch press that was built in 1865 (!) and still in use. Unfortunately the manufacturer didn't maintain a "classic" parts department for machinery that old... So there may be hope for your circa 1970s crankshaft. Cheers mike
  5. Bad ground? Is the heavy brown wire that runs from the alternator to the engine block intact--did you pull on it to make sure it isn't corroded under the end terminals? How about the battery terminals? And the ground strap to the body from the - battery terminal? Is the 3 prong plug on the back of the alternator firmly seated in its socket, and is the wire bail that's supposed to hold it in place still there? Same with the plug at the voltage regulator. No bail holding it in place, but is it firmly seated in its socket? mike
  6. Barney is correct. If you 're going for an authentic from-the-factory restoration or refurbishment, the wheel wells were painted body color over the schutz that was liberally applied to the car's nethermost regions. The body color, however, didn't extend to the underside of the car except as overspray. The floor underside was mostly primer grey with some schutz, but not to the extent of the wheel wells. mike
  7. Some time ago I did a column on how to fix that broken hollow rivet that holds the parking light lens assembly to its bulb holder, along with some additional turn signal troubleshooting info; drop me a PM and I'll send you a copy. The flasher unit itself has (depending on the maker) either a pair or a single set of relay points that cause the interior and exterior lights to blink. Often those points either need a little cleaning and/or adjusting to get 'em working properly again... cheers mike
  8. Make your replacement hose long enough so that it extends below the flat rail that the radiator rests on, so any overflow doesn't puddle on that rail and make a mess/cause eventual rust. mike
  9. If you're referring to the upper strut mounts (bearings), BMW doesn't (and never did) make 'em. Unless you end up with some sketchy Chinese part, chances are buying an "aftermarket" strut mount will net you the same part that BMW sells, minus the roundel on the box. Just be careful with "country of origin" on the parts--even some if not many of the traditional European manufacturers source parts from far, far away, where quality may not be quite as important... Cavet emptor is really true these days... mike
  10. Early 02s (1600 and 2002) with "silver dollar" instruments don't have a tenth's number drum on their trip odometers. Neither the early or late cars have a tenths number drum on the main odometer. The tenths drum wasn't added to the trip odometer until the modell 71 and subsequent cars (black face speedos). So a three digit trip odometer only rolls over once per mile. You can always order a set of replacement gears from www.odometergears.com. mike
  11. You can fill the float chamber on a 2 bbl Weber by taking an ear syringe (!) or a tiny funnel and squirting/pouring gas into the opening just inside the carb throat on the front side (facing the front of the car). Look down those three holes and you'll see down into the float chamber on one. Fill the float chamber up and the car will start almost immediately and have enough gas to get the fuel pump to pull more from the gas tank. mike
  12. FYI, the original center mufflers (resonator) were long and skinny--that's what came on both my '69 and '73, which had their original resonators when I bought 'em. The replacements I bought some years later (factory on the '69, Midas on the '73) are also long and skinny like your first picture. Looks like BMW changed the design--not surprising as the newer design uses less metal so is less expensive to manufacture, and they can charge the same (or larger) price for it. mike
  13. If you can find a local shop that specializes in welding cracked engine blocks (i.e. cast iron), they should be able to weld up your cracked manifold properly. Before re-using it after welding, I'd run a straightedge along the mating surface with the cylinder head to make sure it wasn't warped during the welding process. If it's not flat, it's a simple process for a machine shop to plane it flat. Since it's a tii manifold, and they're not common but are desirable, it's worth the effort to repair. mike
  14. W&N? I know with the nose panel (depending on whether you have a roundie or a squarelight) they become available, then NLA with astonishing speed. By trunk floor I presume you mean the real metal floor that incorporates the spare tire well and gas tank cutout. They seem to be more readily available. If you just need a spare tire well due to rust out, I'll wager someone on the board is parting out a car with a good spare tire well. mike
  15. And...if you're a traditionalist/luddite (take your pick), an good old-fashioned 19th century technology lead acid battery in a Group 26R works just like the factory intended! mike


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