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About mike

  • Birthday January 29

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  1. Were they welded up, or merely filled with body filler (or soldered)? If the latter, you can probably find the spots inside the trunk's rear panel. Even if they were welded or soldered, you can probably find the spots if you look carefully. I'd be leery of drilling through welds, though; you might have to relocate a few mm to avoid the welds. If the old holes aren't visible from the inside, I'm sure someone on the FAQ who's re-doing a roundie can make a paper template from the holes on his/her car and then measure from known points on the panel. I'd do it but mine is still in hibernation. Spring hasn't sprung in Ohio. Yet. mike
  2. What Steve said, with one caveat. At the very leading edge of the floor tar sheet--closest to the rear seat cushion riser--chip away a half inch or so, especially at the outer edges closest to the car's sides. If the backlight or quarter windows ever leaked, that's where the water is gonna pool. You might also look under the car at the hollow wedge-shaped brackets that help support the rear subframe, and poke around that same spot on the inside. Moisture inside the brackets on my '69 rusted through the floor. I caught it in time, thoroughly rustproofed the whole area and then covered the holes in the floor with duct tape so I can inspect the brackets' innards periodically. Otherwise, leave the sound deadening in place. And you'd be better off (especially financially) to stuff the area under the back seat cushion with either several sheets of styrofoam insulation cut to fit or closed cell foam--heck, you can use plastic bags of styrofoam peanuts--for sound deadening. That space under the seat is an excellent sound board and will magnify any sound coming from the driveshaft and diff. mike
  3. I believe the '66 1600-2's VINs were all in the 150XXXX range. 160XXXX VINs were the first rest-of-the-world 2002s... BTW, Scott, you were very lucky to get the nuts on the four studs that hold the headlight assembly to the body unscrewed without breaking 'em. Goes with CA cars; here in the Midwest at least two would have broken, perhaps all four. Nice refurbish...and you were smart to take one out at a time. Lefts and rights are not identical, and are very difficult to tell apart--until you reinstall 'em on the wrong side and your headlights are cross-eyed. mike
  4. Brass floats are very thin, and will eventually stress crack and leak. But I've had plastic floats (in a Solex) go down with all hands aboard too. Just don't do what a friend's "professional" mechanic did--he tried to solder up a leaking brass float. With a small propane torch. Although there was no liquid inside the float, there were fumes. It exploded, and the "mechanic" was lucky to escape with burned eyebrows/eyelashes, and not lose an eye to shrapnel... mike
  5. You don't give the year of your car, but those are vacuum operated switches, part of what appears to be a long since disconnected emission system. Based on the picture, you can most likely remove them, along with the wiring harness that serves them--it's separate from the car's main wiring harness. I suspect you don't have emission inspections for cars that old in Puerto Rico, but some poor soul in CA with a '76 might need 'em! mike
  6. That's an awful lot of trouble to go through for theft-proofing, and won't help a bit if the thieves have a flatbed truck! A simple kill switch hidden in an unlikely location--or in plain sight, disguised as something else, is just as effective. A car thief wants to get in and get going as quickly as possible (before you show up with a hand cannon or shotgun), and even 30 seconds of delay when the car doesn't start after he hotwires it is enough... And don't forget you have a steering wheel lock that must be extracted with a slide hammer, even if the thief does get the engine started. mike PS--my 15 thousandth post!
  7. A choice of solutions: First, go to Realoem.com and look up the part number for the check strap(s) on an NK sedan (see if front and back doors use different ones) and then the P/N for a 2002. If they're the same, you have your answer. If not... Ask someone on the board with an NK car (check the NK message board) to measure (1) the length of the strap that connects the mechanism inside the door with the pin on the door frame, and (2) the space between the two mounting bolts. If they're the same, you're good to go. If the NK strap is longer, it may allow the 02 door to hit the fender when fully opened. Someone on the board makes really good check straps that are identical in appearance to the OEM ones, only they actually work--and don't break. Check archives for the maker. BMW makes a much improved check strap (Max and Blunt both have 'em)--only drawback is they don't look at all like the originals. But if you're not worried about originality, that's another solution. mike
  8. Something to consider...the later 2002 4 speeds--especially those from cars built after January 1974 are pretty long-lived and trouble-free. They have the more robust Borg-Warner type synchros that don't wear as quickly as the Porsche-style synchros used in the earlier trannys. Also those later gearboxes have fine-spline output shafts; earlier units have coarse splines, whose output flanges are subject to wear and failure. I suspect you can score a good used tranny from someone on the FAQ for a fraction of what a rebuilt box will cost--perhaps one left over from a long-ago five speed conversion that's been languishing in a garage for many years... mike
  9. Thanks for publishing this, Robert. I’m looking for the latest example we can find of the triangular cut-outs. And that was the 628th US (only) spec 1600 off the assembly line; first I've heard of '68s with that cutout. But it's a pretty early car. Has anyone ever seen a 2002 with the cutout? While rest-of-the-world 2002 production began in the fall of 1967, cars for the US market didn't start coming off the line until sometime in February '68, except for a few destined for Auto Shows. So I suspect any '02s with the cutout would be Euro spec cars... mike
  10. Keep in mind WRT tii clocks: 72 and 73 cars have electro-mechanical clocks--they're mechanical clocks that are wound electrically and automatically by a solenoid and set of points. '74 tii's have a solid state (quartz) clock, a completely different setup from the earlier clocks, requiring a different skill set to repair. Repairing early clocks is more akin to speedometer repair; later ones, more akin to electronics repair. mike
  11. 2002 Wheel Covers 101 (at least for US cars): Many (if not all) US 68 '02s had two piece wheel covers: a center cap, (painted silver so it looked frosted) and a trim ring with oval slots. Together they looked just like the later one-piece wheel covers. It's possible that late '68s had the same one-piece wheel covers as the '69s; not completely sure on that 1969: One piece wheel covers, painted silver in the center (frosted look) with only a little half-moon cutout for the valve stem (first picture). AFAIK those wheel covers were only used in '69 (but some early '70s may have been so equipped, while the factory was using up stock). The silver paint was poorly applied and started to flake off within a few months. If you remove the paint, the stainless steel underneath won't be particularly shiny, especially when compared with the later wheel covers. 70-73 One piece wheel covers, highly polished, with a designated, round cutout for the valve cover (second picture). The factory reverted to little center caps when the styled, slotted wheels were adapted for the 74-76 models. mike
  12. We call that the work of The Bondo Bandito...helping a friend with doors on his otherwise remarkably straight '02...we found 3/4" thick bondo on the lower portion of the driver's door, adjacent to the fender--but no corresponding damage to the fender, which is original to the car. Haven't figured out how that happened quite yet. mike
  13. I hope you're not gonna replace rod bearings without pulling the crankshaft out and taking it to a machine shop to be micced and ground to proper undersize (or at least polished if you're really lucky and didn't score the crank surface). Just clapping in new bearings (even if you check the size with a micrometer) is asking for trouble sooner rather than later.... A thought...since your E21 is an 82, it has the 1.8 liter engine; I'll bet you can find a good 2002 crank with rods for about the same money as having yours turned (presuming it's turn-able). It should bolt right into the E21 block and get the engine back up to its full 2 liters... mike
  14. Where were the pictures of the real FW-190 taken? The building looks like the Air Force Museum here in Dayton, but the signage doesn't. I know we have a big display of aircraft and engines from both sides and both wars, including a BMW jet engine from an ME 262 and a WW I LeGnome-Rhone rotary (cylinders revolve, crankshaft is stationary). If you've not visited the Museum, you should if you're interested in military aviation. You'll see one-of-a-kind aircraft there that are the lone survivors of their type. Absolutely fascinating. mike
  15. Something that's puzzled me for many years, and I have yet to find a good answer. On the '66 and '67 1600s there are two triangular cutouts in the upper corners of the panel that separates the trunk from the passenger compartment. They allow air to flow between the trunk and the passenger compartment, not necessarily a good thing on '02s, due to their propensity to suck exhaust fumes into the trunk while underway. From 1968 on (I think) those cutouts were eliminated, but the little pressed-in triangles are still visible in the sheet metal all the way to the end of production in 1977. I can guess why they were eliminated, but I've never been able to figure out what they were originally for. Does anyone have a good explanation? My only guess would be that they were to serve as an extra air exit in addition to the flow-though slots in the headliner along the top edge of the backlight, and that when they served as an entry for exhaust fumes instead of an air exit for the cabin, they were eliminated. Just one of those little mysteries that may remain unexplained... mike
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