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mike

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  1. Yeah, you're gonna have to remove the shaft again. It's difficult to properly align those number drums when you remove the shaft. That was the hardest part of working on the odometer part of the instrument. Took me three tries to get everything right. mike
  2. I'm certainly not a lawyer (and don't play one on TV either) but here's a suggestion: instead of calling it a "deposit" state that it's to hold the car for a specific number of days pending the buyer's final decision. During that period it will be taken off the market. If the prospective buyer decides not to buy the car, he/she would then lose a percentage of the money paid (25%, 50%, 100%--whatever is agreed to). Have it in writing, and then both parties are perfectly clear just what will happen. You could even add a contingency that if the car didn't pass a mutually agreed-upon inspection, then the payment would be fully refunded. You can be as detailed as you want. The key is for both parties to know--and agree to--the transaction rules beforehand. mike
  3. Dunno whether you give the potential buyer instructions as to how his deposit would be handled, but it's always a good idea--whenever $$ is concerned--to Get It In Writing. Send a purchase agreement that gives all the facts about the item being sold, the sales price, amount of deposit, AND the disposition of the deposit if the buyer backs out. Have the prospective buyer sign and send a scanned copy with signature back along with the deposit. When I rent a house and the tenant sends me a deposit, I make sure he/she understands that if they change their mind (unless it's a military clause situation) that they only get a percentage of their deposit refunded, because I've taken the property off the market in anticipation of their moving in. This is especially important if there's a time lag between the purchase (or rental) agreement and the actual deal closing (or move-in date). Was burned a couple of times before I learned that... mike
  4. Didja notice the VIN tag on the steering column is missing? There's a dark spot where one used to be, which tells me they used the steering column surround from another car and didn't transfer the tag. +1 on Tjones02's comments, adding that it has '68/69 flat front turn signals. Can't quite decide if it's supposed to be Inka or that's just the lighting, since the paint sticker seems to be missing. It should be visible, at least in part in the VIN plate photo. Also, there's no picture of the VIN that's stamped on the inner fender; perhaps an oversight but if I were serious about the car, I'd want to see that too, along with some date stamps on the tail lights, etc.. mike
  5. Use a shop vac to suck (unmentionable) things out the floor heater outlets. Once you get all the mouse parts and mouse nests out of the heater box, Fabreeze is your friend. That stuff really does work... I had a pristine early rear seat back--the flat one only used on the 68 and 69 02s--pristine except mice had nested back there--and peed. A lot. In the Gummihaar. I used all sorts of pet odor destroyer concoctions, left it Gummihaar-up in the sun for several days...still smelled like mouse pee. Then I gave it a generous spraying with Fabreeze. Within a day the smell was gone. I put the seat in the car--that was nearly 15 years ago and it's still smell-free. So spray Fabreeze into the heater core from the intake side, and up into the housing from all four vents (upper and lower). Do this several times until the smell is gone. But if you've left remains in the box, it won't work as well so be thorough. Mice can get through incredibly small holes, including the slots in your hood and up the "duck lips" so if you have a mouse-prone storage area, plug the duck lips and use some Vexar gutter guard to block off the hood louvers. But they still may sneak in around the rubber side seals on the plenum chamber.
  6. Back in the day, the late Pete Mc Henry built a 318ti with an E36 M3 motor and the requisite suspension and brake mods to go along with the motor. It was something else! When the ti first came out in 1995, I managed to snag a stick shift press pool ti for a couple of weeks to do a Roundel story--drove it to work and then from Dayton to Gateway Tech (remember them?) in St Louis and back. My conclusion: "BMW, you've built a great 1600; now how about building us a 2002?" The model would have been a huge success here if BMW hadn't built and marketed it in the US as an entry level car "for those who couldn't afford a fancier E36." If they had sent the 323ti to the US, we'd still be getting BMW hatchbacks... IMHO mike
  7. When all else fails....pipe wrench with optional cheater pipe. Then (1) order a new drain plug (actually do that first!) and (2) tighten it yourself with a 3/8 drive ratchet using a new crush washer. mike
  8. When you start looking for more power to give more performance acceleration-wise, remember to keep things in balance WRT to handling and (especially) stopping. And in the search for lotsa horsepower, remember that a 2002 weighs over 500 lbs less than a Mini. In fact, back in the day a roundie '02 weighed less than a contemporary MGB. Increasing an '02 from its stock (in carbureted form) 100 or so hp to 150 is a 50% increase. When you don't start with a lot of hp, it doesn't take very many more to make a noticeable difference. My chipped E30 318is now is about 148 hp vs the original 134, and having owned a stock one before this one, even 14 more hp makes a noticeable difference. And when I hot rodded my 28 hp Renault 4CV to 44 hp....wow, what a difference in a 1300 lb car. Finally--do you want a fun-to-drive street car that you can occasionally track in a driving school, or a track rat that'll be a real PITA to drive on the street. Your choice, but choose well, grasshopper; reversing is expensive! The one word to remember: balance. keep us posted on your progress mike
  9. Sounds like a bad case of muffler diarrhea to me...better get some Depends before the C&C... mike
  10. More likely in Cincinnati than in Dayton because of Wright-Patterson AFB and all the military-owned out-of-state cars, many with no front license plates. Too much trouble for the local minions of the law to check as they go by... Interestingly, Ohio's YOM law only requires you to display one plate from your car's year--but carry both historical plates in the car. Go figure... mike
  11. From SAN (SEMA Action Network): Ohio No Longer Requires Front License Plate Congratulations, Ohio! A provision of the 2019 Ohio Transportation budget bill (H.B. 62) which allowed for the display of only a single, rear-mounted license plate, goes into effect today, July 1, 2020. The state previously required both a front and rear plate. This new law is expected to save the state between $1.2 and $1.4 million per year. SAN-opposed legislation (S.B. 179) to return to the two plate requirement in the state failed to pass before the new provision went into effect. However, this bill could still be passed this year. If you have not already done so already, please voice your opposition to the bill with lawmakers on the SAN website. Help spread the word by sharing the link with residents in the state and encourage them to follow suit by contacting the committee right away. So, fellow Ohioans, you can display whatever you want on the front of your car--or nothing! mike
  12. Just heard that this year's event, to be held at a very nice resort near Palm Springs, CA, has been canceled. Rats! Was looking forward to the drive out (not in my '02--my lovely wife will barely drive to Cincinnati with me in an '02). However, next year it'll be at Hilton Head in conjunction with the Hilton Head Concours, in early November. And our local concours here in Dayton, normally held in September, was also canceled Still more victims of the pandemic. Has anyone heard about Vintage? Is it still on? mike
  13. Not sure what you're asking, but if it's how to reattach--use the same method as the factory: pop rivets. Drill out the remains of the old ones and rivet away. I'd use aluminum ones as they won't rust. Actually yours are the first ones I've seen that have come loose. mike
  14. Oops--I misread the post--what I have is the VIN plate for 1660900, not the steering column cover. I found this derelict body (literally) sitting out in a field 30 some years ago and did manage to pry the VIN plate off as it was the lowest number I'd seen. But I don't have the steering column cover. Sorry for the error in my memory. However, my '69--1664801 is the 40th "second series" '69--that is assembled after 1 Jan '69-- off the line, with a 4 Feb build date and it does have the steering column VIN plate. It appears that it took the factory over a month to make the adjustments to their production to incorporate all the 1 Jan '69 new Federal requirements. Since we know that US cars were built in batches, mine must have been in that first batch of cars bound for the US with all the new Federal regulations met. So I suspect that the column-mounted VIN plates began with 1664761, the first post-1 January production car. mike
  15. All the US spec 2002s I've seen have the large font, obviously machine-stamped VIN plates, whether from'68 or '69. I have a VIN plate from 1660900 and it matches those already posted. I also have a 1600VIN plate but I'm not near it currently so can't check its number or their font sizes One thing that kinda puzzled me in the original post: the pop rivets holding it on the car are obviously steel, as they're rusted. All the VIN plates I've seen were held down by aluminum pop rivets... But if I had to hazard a guess--Steve's explanation of a broken-down stamping machine, either at the BMW factory or the sub-contractor that produced the VIN plates is a logical explanation. Remember those 76's that don't have VIN plates at all? Perhaps the same thing happened with them. mike
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