mike

Solex
  • Content Count

    13,707
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    13
  • Feedback

    0%

Community Reputation

1,704 Excellent

About mike

  • Birthday January 29

Profile Information

  • Gender Male
  • Location Beavercreek OH

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. mike

    Buying my first 2002

    There's literally a ton of information on the FAQ that covers this topic exhaustively, including an article on exactly what to look for when buying a 2002. If you have a friend nearby (or can recruit someone knowledgeable off the FAQ) that you can take along when you look at your choices, that would even be better. you're always better off to look for a good body and so-so mechanicals than the other way 'round. Of course, finding both in good shape is even better, but that's getting pretty pricey. Good luck, and don't be shy about asking questions of board members; we're always happy to help. cheers, and happy hunting mike
  2. Have the front struts been dismantled recently? The old BMWCCA Tech Tips book had a writeup about this, and the cause was reassembling the washers and spacers incorrectly at the top of the front struts. Check archives to see the correct sequence of assembly. But make sure everything else has been checked before you start dismantling struts! mike
  3. PM me; I did a column on installing those in my '69 when I repainted. Maybe there's something in my writeup that might help. cheers mike
  4. mike

    Roundie FS on Denver,Colorado C/L

    By the VIN it's a 1600 (1564421). Squarelight steering wheel and road wheels, 2002 seats (1600s didn't have fully reclining seats); aftermarket sunroof; pre-1 Jan '69 Master cylinder reservoir setup; bulge type front turn signals--may have a 2 liter engine as it shows a separate reservoir for the clutch hydraulics (1600s had mechanically actuated clutches); rear wheel arches covered with insulation (wonder what's underneath...). Bodywork looks OK, but there's a lot of investigating to do to see exactly what's there...original engine? covered-over rust? Caveat emptor... mike
  5. I put a three row core radiator in my '73 back in 1987--long before the Silicon Garage was making 'em--found a local shop who sourced the core. It's been in the car ever since and handles the A/C and long hot drives just fine--and that's with an 80 degree C thermostat. My '69 has a staggered two row core, and does fine (no A/C) most of the time, but at Ofest this year I noticed it was running very hot in stop and go traffic on a hot day. I think that was partially due to using the original-to-the-69 small, 4 blade fan. I think with the later 5 blade fan it would have been OK. regardless, both perform significantly better than the OEM radiator, and both will accommodate a stock 5 blade tropical fan. mike
  6. Welcome back to the '02 fraternity/sorority--since BMW sold 88,000 2002s (and another 12k 1600s) in the US, there are still more than a few out there waiting to be discovered. If you haven't found one by late May, plan to attend the Vintage meet in Asheville NC--nearly 500 cars last year, and well over a hundred were 2002s. Meet other owners in person and network--That's how you find cars that have been lurking in garages, just waiting for rescue from the clutches of non-enthusiast owners (or their descendants). Cheers from OhiO mike
  7. A wiper motor that won't turn off is generally traceable to a problem with the self-parking mechanism. The power to the parking mechanism is hot all the time the ignition is on; the power that turns the motor on and keeps it operating--goes through the wiper switch and is only live with the ignition on and the wiper switch on. If the wipers stopped in their normal parked position, the wiper motor must be initially energized through the switch circuit, so concentrate your efforts on tracing the wiring that leads from the fuse box to the wiper switch. You didn't say what year car you have, but if it's a '72 or '73 with the wiper on/off switch in the turn signal stalk, they are problematical. I did a column on how to troubleshoot/repair those switches; pm me for a copy. The 68-71 switches and those used on squarelights are much more reliable, but the squarelight switches can get dirty contacts; clean with spray tuner cleaner. mike
  8. mike

    To the Icon and back.

    Great story--your description and pictures were a great substitute. Sorry to have missed the festivities, but I suspect with the weather we had here in the Midwest I wouldn't have made it down there--or back. Looking forward to seeing the new exhibit as part of Vintage in May. mike
  9. mike

    Larger Oil Filter?

    Also when contemplating a change from the specified spin-on filter, make sure it has a pressure relief valve built in. Back when 2002s were first introduced and filters were hard to find, I discovered that the filter for an Open Kadette was identical--same size, same threads--and fit perfectly. But...it didn't have the internal pressure relief valve. As I was checking my engine during the winter, I noticed that the filter can was bulged outward, like Superman had blown into it. I wrote to the manufacturer, who told me about the internal pressure relief valve, and that I shouldn't use a filter that wasn't specifically made for that engine due to its high oil pressure. I didn't have an oil pressure gauge on the car at the time, so didn't know that an M10 will generate over 100 psi when cold--even with 10W-30 or 10W-40 oil, and especially if you're using 20w-50 oil (I've actually pegged my 150psi gauge). The Opel-specified filter didn't have the relief valve; per the manufacturer I was lucky it didn't split and dump all my oil. So...be careful with what you choose. The specified filter is just fine--change your oil and filter every 4k miles (with conventional oil) and you'll be OK. mike
  10. Travis, there may be hope for yours...they can be repaired up to a point. Drop me a pm if you'd like to try--I did a column on how to repair regulators.... mike
  11. mike

    Diff ID

    Actually all 1600s came with a 4.11 diff--at least in the US market if not everywhere, so you have a 2002 diff anyway. Plenty strong enough for most any power you can extract from an M10 that isn't a Formula 1 motor. mike
  12. That would be me--I've used Delta CD boxes since a few weeks after I bought my '69 back in 1969. They don't last forever, but as was pointed out, the Mk 10B has a switch that allows you to go back to conventional ignition if the Delta unit dies. It uses your regular points (which will last 100k miles or so) and coil. Just re-gap your plugs to 35-40 thou and you're good to go. Give it a try. You'll like it--presuming it still works. Do you have the connection instructions? The manufacturer is still in business out in Colorado (or at least they were a couple of years ago) but I don't think they're making 'em any more. I have a brand new "Tiger 500" unit in my parts stash that's identical to the Delta unit, made by the same company. And the Delta units show up NIB on E-bay every so often... mike
  13. And Wolfgang is on his way to the Foundation museum for the upcoming Passion Car exhibit. Looking forward to visiting him at Vintage in May. mike Top picture: Wolfgang at delivery, 5 May 1969 Bottom picture: Wolfgang and me, 15 Jan 2019
  14. mike

    Diff ID

    The lower diff in your pictures is from an E21--notice that the mount on the cover end is completely different from the one off your 2002. It's also narrower so you have to fiddle with either the flanges or axle shafts to make it work on a 2002, in addition to swapping out the mounting. Also there's a fair chance that the E21 diff is a 3.91 vs the original 3.64 on a 2002 (and also 77-79 320i's). There should be ratio numbers stamped somewhere on both diffs; divide the smaller number into the larger and that'll tell you the ratio. And if there's a big white S painted on the E21 case, you're in luck: that denotes a limited slip. mike
  15. mike

    Rubber flaps on headlights surround

    It's just a piece of flat grey vinyl--go to a place that has shower door parts (home improvement store or a hardware store) and buy a piece of grey vinyl shower door sweep--that's the piece that's fasted to the bottom of a shower door to keep water from splashing out. Cut to fit and you're done. mike