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mike

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About mike

  • Birthday January 29

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  1. If Andrew's cabrio used the round (later style) bottle, there would be evidence of the welded on bracket (or the bracket itself) on the right side inner fender. Lacking that, and especially if there were two holes about 8-9" apart almost at the top of the pax side inner fender (that held the "dog bone" bracket for the football shaped reservoir), that would indicate the earlier type of reservoir was fitted. mike
  2. But if Andrew's convertible has the bolted-on bracket vs the welded on one, the oval bottle should be correct. Remember, it's a Baur cabrio, so the factory may have been using up parts and sent all the oval reservoirs to Baur to install on their cars. mike
  3. Andrew, yours is 12v, correct? I seem to recall a lot of the early 1600s had an oval, horizontally mounted reservoir, but some must have had the more common 2002 type, because years ago I found a 6v washer pump in a wrecked 1600, identical to the ones used on the later bottles, to install on my 6v 4CV , IIRC the mounting brackets are completely different; the early, oval bottle mounts to a bracket that's bolted to the body, while the later round reservoir mounts to a bracket that's welded to the body--same as your tii. That should tell you what your car originally came with. See page 61-24 in the parts book and you'll see both styles. mike
  4. Who's the maker? If Aardvark, I've heard goo things about Dave's product (presume he still makes 'em).. mike
  5. A brace of '02s is twice as much fun! mike
  6. Now you have to choose what to drive to Mid America and Vintage--the '70 or the tii...tough life and tough choice 😉. Wolfgang is coming up on 51 in a week or so... mike
  7. Agreed. The rubber trim on the front bumper end pieces began with the modell 71 cars that were introduced in mid 1971, and were used on both Euro and US versions. A PO has done a switchee-swapee on your car. You might want to advertise in the parts for sale or wanted section to see if there's someone with already drilled pieces who's willing to swap for the undrilled ones you have. mike
  8. And of course, if you're gonna do the head, make sure you use the later style valve stem seals (as used on the E30 M10 engines). They last much longer than the original design, and will keep the notorious "smoke on the overrun" syndrome at bay for many years and miles. mike
  9. That makes the third Sahara '73 in our part of Ohio--yours, mine and Jim Denker's. Javi, your VIN is about 700 lower than mine, so my guess is mid-late Nov 72 production date. Cheers, and welcome to the '02 fraternity/sorority. mike
  10. Those "period alloys" you currently have are very attractive--clean 'em up and either paint or polish and they would look even better--much better than bottlecaps! If you want to go for 14 inch wheels due to (slightly) better tire selection, a set of E30 BBS wheels (if you want alloys) or E30 steel wheels (painted silver with the small Euro hubcaps) will give you a different but period appearance with wheels that have the correct offset out of the box. A third option would be the 13" BBS E21 is wheels--the fitment is OK on some 2002s, but on others cause tire rub unless you roll the fender edges. mike
  11. I don't have my BMW factory accessory folder collection in front of me, but if they're aluminum, they look like a factory accessory threshold (sill) plate offered especially for the early roundies that didn't have any kind of threshold cover. Thus the paint on the threshold was exposed and subject to scratches from feet being dragged across it. If they're longer than a 2002 door, they may be a factory part for a 2000 CS (which came with sill plates from the factory), as NK sedan doors are shorter than an 02's. And if they're stainless steel, they're probably aftermarket. I'm sure Steve will post a picture of what I'm describing as it's in the 1969 accessory flyer that I have but can't get to right now. mike
  12. Were it mine and I really wanted to keep and finish the car I would 1. Find a shop in Seattle that would undertake the body work and paint to prepare it for reinstalling the mechanicals 2. Rent or buy an enclosed trailer and haul all the pieces to your new Seattle place 3. Store the mechanical pieces either in your new home or a nearby store 'n lock so they'll be ready to reinstall when the bodywork is finished. 4. Have at reassembly. Good luck--when we moved from upstate NY to SW Ohio, I had to drive my unrestored and barely running '48 Fiat Topolino--with a terrible rod knock--on a mixture of 50 wt oil and STP. Didn't have anything large enough to tow it and couldn't afford to ship it. But it survived the trip, and then I restored the car. mike
  13. To the original poster: if your driver's seat back is sagging to one side, it's possible that the torsion bar that assists in reclining and raising the seat was incorrectly fitted sometime in the past when a PO removed the reclining mechanism from the seat back frame. It doesn't go back together intuitively and incorrect reassembly will make the seat back sit at an angle rather than straight in relation to the cushion. I discovered this the hard when when disassembling a seat. If you think that may be your problem, PM me and I'll send you a column I did on the subject. cheers mike
  14. FYI there are two different rubber connectors used on '02s: an early style that's retained on the filler cap end by a clamp, and used on cars that don't have the inside, bolt-on bracket. The later one (like yours) is retained by a bolted-on flange on the gas cap end. It's much shorter than the early style. Not sure when the changeover took place but possibly at VIN 2570001... So if you replace, be sure and get the right one. Our "usual sources" will know the correct one if you quote your VIN. mike
  15. And make sure the shift lever isn't hitting the edge of the opening in the tranny tunnel when engaging reverse. Lots of folks have remarked that the gear lever isn't centered in the opening even when everything in the drivetrrain is installed properly. If you're prevented from pushing the lever all the way into reverse because it's hitting the edge of the opening (and that wouldn't be evident unless you remmove the shift boot and the foam insulator), that could be your problem...lots easier to check than pulling the trarnny... mike
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