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About mike

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  1. Not sure this is a super price, but ECS tuning has H&R Sport Springs on sale for $208 and change, with free shipping. Look for 'em listed under "E-10" (we've gotta educate 'em). I've been running H&Rs for a number of years with Bilstein HDs and larger sway bars, and really like the combination. mike
  2. Nick, if you have the OEM flasher unit that contains two sets of relay points, drop me a PM--I had this problem long ago and did (at least part of) a column on how to fix it, after you've made sure you have good bulbs and grounds... mike
  3. Was Bavarian Motors on Northern Blvd in Queens still in business by '76? That's where I bought my '69--May delivery of a Feb production car. mike
  4. I had a puzzling coolant loss on my '69 at about 157k miles--no external leaks, water pump and radiator ok, good compression in all four cylinders, wet or dry. Finally found moisture on #1 plug after numerous compression tests, so pulled the head, expecting a blown head gasket. Nope...the coolant passage over #1 exhaust port had eroded 'till it met the edge of the combustion chamber, giving me inadvertent water injection. The same ports in two other cylinders were about to do the same thing. Had our local machine shop weld up the ports, using a head gasket as a template, then surface the head. Engine now as 226k miles with no further problems of that nature. mike
  5. Both my Nevada '69 and my Sahara '73 came from the factory with the hood supports hastily painted a semi-gloss black--with a brush--right over the hood bolts, so obviously after the body paint was applied but before the grilles were installed. But neither car had the panels on each side of the radiator painted black; they were left body color--ion both cases a relatively light color. I can't recall seeing a known "factory original" car with those radiator side panels painted anything other than body color... mike
  6. Nick, you coulda just bought an early roundie...IIRC when the 68's were road tested the test weight was given as 2060 lbs--actually less than an MGB... mike
  7. Geoff, the relay you refer to (used on the pre-modell 71 cars) is a bi-metal strip timing relay, similar in operation to an old-style electro-mechanical turn signal relay. While they're NLA, often they can be made to work again by carefully prying back the aluminum cover to expose the innards. Then take a close look at the points inside, and clean 'em if necessary. Then test by plugging back in with the cover still off. If they now work, you're good. If not, try bending the points a little closer together to see if that works--the electromagnet that pulls the points closed may have weakened over time. If that doesn't work...you'll have to find another one. mike
  8. FYI, BMW didn't start fitting wiper delay relays from the factory 'till the '75 models. They made a kit available for the 72/73 cars that turn the wipers on/off by pushing in the turn signal switch (stalk), but they weren't fitted at the factory. So your '70 doesn't even have a provision for a wiper delay--and no relay, so you have to fit an aftermarket relay. Squarelights not equipped with the delay feature could be retrofitted with a kit from BMW (7 terminal wiper relay and a three position wiper stalk) as they were all pre-wired from the factory. The 72-73 kit included a wiring harness as those cars weren't pre-wired, so you got a 7 terminal relay, three position dash switch (for wiper speed) and a wiring harness. mike PS--easy source of 7 terminal relays: E21's were all so equipped.
  9. Hard to tell from the picture, but it may have the embossed hood trim. The really early US 2002s (look at the press pool car from C&D and Pop Science road tests--with the NJ plates) had that embossed trim, but that doesn't show in the parts book. But those wheel covers look like the one piece ones. AFAIK there were two different wheel cover setups used on the '68 cars. The really early ones had a hubcap--painted silver IIRC, with a soft aluminum trim ring having square holes, held in place by the hubcap. Later cars had a two piece version of the one piece wheel cover used in 1969--painted silver with oval holes. The one in this video looks like the one piece, 1969 wheel cover, but hard to tell. Would love to know the car's VIN... mike
  10. Thanks for the heads up. Something that wasn't available when I did my '73 engine back in 2004; I'll have to remember that when I (eventually) do my '69... mike
  11. I have a torpedo heater in my garage--haven't used it for several years but used it a lot when I was restoring a couple of my antique cars. You have to remember that it's an open flame heater, so no painting, stripping paint or using any kind of flammable solvents while it's running. And the instructions tell you to crack open a window or door a couple of inches to prevent CO buildup. I'm very susceptible to headaches from too much CO, and never had a problem with mine. And if I was gonna paint, I would get the garage nice and warm while I prepped everything, then shut off the heater, do my painting and go back to the house. mike
  12. Coupla things...(well, more than two...) When you have the head re-done, make sure to use the valve guides and stem seals specified for the M10 engine from the E21 and E30 cars--a much improved design over the original (2002) setup and will last much longer (no smoke on the over-run). If you have an early 121-head M10 (motor number lower than 1665200) it has a six bolt crankshaft and a coil spring pressure plate. Nothing wrong with either, but the pressure plates are becoming hard to find, and the factory thought it was smart to add two more bolts to hold the flywheel to the crankshaft, so that must be a Good Thing. Decent M10 cranks are inexpensive, so that might be a good idea to switch (crank, flywheel, pressure plate and throwout bearing) to an 8 bolt crank--if you have a six bolt. The pistons you quote may not work with a 121 head, as they state they're for "1971-1974" M10 engines; the 121 head was discontinued and replaced by the E12 head in late 1972, so make sure they're OK for a 121 head before buying. An E21 oil pump will work on a 2002, but you'll have to re-use the 2002 pickup arm, as the two are different. So long as your old pickup arm isn't all scored where the oil pump gears touch it, just clean up and re-use. And if it is scored, a light milling will fix the problem. When the shop surfaces the head, make sure they bolt the upper timing chain cover to the head while milling or you'll have a permanent oil leak at that joint. Someone on the FAQ should be able to recommend a Dallas area machine shop familiar with M10s... cheers and happy rebuilding mike
  13. According to my old BMWCCA Tech Tips book (1976), a caliper from an Opel GT of about the same vintage (68-73) uses the same bolt-up pattern and same brake pads as the single brake line calipers from a single master cylinder-equipped (that would be a pre-1969 US spec car) 1600 or 2002 If the Opel GT used it, other Opel Kadettes of the same vintage should have the same ones. Dunno if Opels were manufactured in Brazil at that time, but if so, you should be able to find the requisite caliper. cheers, and happy hunting mike
  14. I've been using the same one Paul Winterton pictured since long before Harbor Freight started selling it--actually since before Harbor Freight existed. But it works just fine and is swivel-jointed to reach in around the alternator. Be sure and cover the top of the battery with a rag, or take your watch off while removing the filter. It's easy for a metal watch band to ground between the + battery terminal and the battery hold-down clamp. Results: a red-hot watch band and second degree burns...I know from experience. mike
  15. Schon '02 beat me to it--his post is a page from the CCA "Tech Tips" book, published in 1976, with a '79 addendum. mike

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