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About mike

  • Birthday January 29

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  • Gender Male
  • Location Beavercreek OH

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  1. If your car has the Fasten Seat Belts sign atop the dash (mid-72 and later) it's the perfect spot for extra gauges. There's a large hole under that seat belt sign, plenty big for wiring, and there are already two mounting holes. And you don't have to take your eyes off the road to read gauges up there... mike
  2. Apparently it wasn't this time, but another source for a sudden and overwhelming oil leak is failure of the oil pressure sender switch. Both the OEM ones and the gauge senders have been known to fail without warning, and can dump the engine's entire oil supply in a minute or so at highway speeds. This kind of failure is a strong argument for an oil pressure gauge--you would have noticed falling oil pressure well before the warning light lit--which it does at only 7psi... My friend Alan used to call the oil pressure warning light the SNOP light--stands for "Sorry, No Oil Pressure." mike
  3. The original gasket I made in 1979 was still good when I made a new one about 2008--just wanted a nice clean example for my new carb. Dunno what the original material was--it was some sort of dense packing material, but definitely gas and oil resistant. I'm sure there are plenty of dense closed cell foam that isn't attacked by hydrocarbons... mike
  4. Jim, is this for your 30 May 69 production car? Cause if it is those guides look quite different from those on my Feb 69 production car. I'll have to look at mine more closely when I get home, but having had the sunroof panel out of both my '69 and '73, I don't remember them being any different. PM me in about ten days to remind me and I'll look at mine. mike
  5. I wasn't able to use the cast aluminum adapter on my car as it caused the OEM air cleaner to hit the hood, so I took a Dremel tool and tinsnips, opened out the opening in the factory air cleaner, and made a gasket from dense, closed cell foam that would compress when the air cleaner was mounted onto its brackets. That's been working just fine since about 1979... mike
  6. Are these factory 02 wheels? Never seen any like 'em either here in the States or even in pictures...were they GB market only? Very attractive with those little hubcaps, reminiscent of the CS coupe wheels. mike
  7. mike

    Door disassembly

    I find a shortened wood paint stirrer works just fine! As for the mirror set screw. Before reattaching the mirror, replace the slotted set screw with a stainless steel Allen head set screw. Easier to get good and tight, and won't strip out like a slot head. Metric ones are available at your local hardware store. If you're not gonna replace the whole door, I'd leave the vent window assembly in place--especially if the door closed/sealed properly. You can completely mask it off for a repaint, and it'll save you many hours of fiddling to get everything (window glass, vent frame, window. tracks etc) re-aligned so that the glass closes easily and seals to the door frame. I spent 2-3 hours realigning all that stuff when I swapped doors on my '69, and practically no time when repainting my '73, as I had left all that in place. cheers mike
  8. mike

    Door seals

    This is usually the only section of the door gasket that goes bad--there's $$$ to be made for someone who's willing and able to reproduce this one piece. The whole gasket is made up of several different pieces glued together--including the trailing edge window seal, so it could be supplied as a separate part...hint, hint... mike
  9. There were several different shift surrounds that the various A/C suppliers used--some incorporated part of the original surround, others were completely different. A picture of yours would be helpful. My Frigiking surround was supplied by Frigiking, utilizing only the original metal lip that was part of the factory console. I remember it coming loose from the plastic surround, requiring some bracket fabrication to once again reattach it. So post a picture to allow us to help you better. mike
  10. mike

    A reintroduction of sorts

    Welcome back--to paraphrase the old milk commercial, "you never outgrow your need for 2002s." As a 49 year owner I can attest to that! Plan to attend Mid America (join our caravan from Dayton) and/or Vintage in 2019. mike
  11. "Back in the day"--25-30 years ago a carbureted '73 was generally thought to be the best from both an appearance standpoint (round tail lights, chrome bumpers), construction and material quality (much better quality interior, and few gastarbeiters building 'em than later cars) and engine operation/performance (no air pump, thermal reactor etc). Same thing could be said for the late 72s with the E12 head and 2 barrel carb. The above from the original 2002 guru, Michel Poteau. There's also something to be said about the earliest cars, as they are the "purest" in terms of original design and purpose. But has been pointed out, you don't buy a 2002 as an investment; you buy it because they're fun So get the one that gives you the biggest grin on your face when you're behind the wheel... mike
  12. Interesting...yet another squarelight Fjord car with a tan interior (presuming both paint and interior are original)...most I've seen have dark blue or even black. I agree with Son of Marty--get it running, give the interior and exterior a good cleaning, and especially if the paint is original leave it be, patina and all. A car is only original once... That's exactly what I'm doing with my 122k mile, all original E30 318is--even to the extent of having dozens of hail dents removed from the original paint rather than having it repainted after the 2014 Kansas Hail Storm Disaster... mike
  13. a Mazda, or even a Vega (gulp)! mike
  14. mike

    Types of Dashboards

    That explains why I've seen so few hard plastic binnacles--those 150xxxx cars are very uncommon in the US--and I suspect owners replaced their warped plastic binnacles with the later padded ones. But the cutoff date of Nov 66 indicates that the early model year 67s had hard plastic binnacles--another example of BMW using up stock--just like they did with the chrome-trimmed dashboards. Federal regs governing shiny chrome (that could reflect into driver's eyes) didn't take effect until 1 Jan 1968, so BMW didn't feel the need to change their cars 'till then--thus the "early" and "late" '68 cars (pre and post 1 Jan). They did the same thing in 1969--early and late '69 model year cars--changeover on '69 2002s was 1664761. Doncha just love this minutia? BTW--what's the site address for Anders' "66 Bible"? mike
  15. And being an old Luddite, I'd say go for a manual choke, even if it means you have to source a choke cable and the aluminum lower steering column surround (if you have a late 72 or later car that came with a 2 barrel Solex). But first make sure your old Weber is well and truly dead. After much fussing around with my 1979 vintage 32/36, I replaced it, only to find that the running problem wasn't the carburetor after all. I presume you removed the carb from the car, dismantled it and gave it an overnight bath in a can of carburetor cleaner, then blew out the passages with compressed air and reassembled. Or if you didn't, and the problem seems to be with poor performance on the primary barrel, check the idle circuit as well as the main jet circuit. The idle circuit provides most of the fuel up to about 2500 rpm, so that may be the source of your problem. Also, try squirting some carburetor cleaner (or wave an unlit propane torch) near the carb's primary barrel shaft. If the idle speed increases, you have an air leak around the shaft; folks make a kit to re-bush that shaft--much cheaper than a new carb. Just saying, make sure you need a new carb before springing for one. mike