mike

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About mike

  • Birthday January 29

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  • Gender Male
  • Location Beavercreek OH

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  1. Really, really dumb question--but have you checked your front tire pressures? How long has this problem existed? Did it start suddenly, or has it gradually happened over a period of time (weeks or months)? And have you had the front struts apart recently (I saw you installed new front Bilstein strut inserts). If so, are you absolutely sure you reassembled the washers and spacers that go above and below the upper strut bearing in the correct order and orientation? Doing that incorrectly will cause the symptoms you describe, that is, pulling to one side or the other not during braking...the correct order for the bearing and spacers is as follows, beginning at the bottom with the upper spring cup: washer, grease cap (lip facing up towards the bearing), strut bearing assembly, properly greased, flat washer, tubular spacer, the smallest flat washer and finally the nut that goes on the end of the strut insert. mike
  2. Based on your second picture that's shot from directly overhead, your new wheels' offset are gonna put those tires outside the fender lip so you may have to roll 'em, especially if you have lowering springs. Suggest you determine your wheels' offset--either by measuring or checking to see if it's stamped on the wheel itself--to determine if that offset is compatible with 2002 suspension geometry. Lotsa info on that in the archives. Nice looking wheels, BTW. mike
  3. mike

    Brake Freeze

    First, as was pointed out, make sure all 8 caliper pistons and four wheel cylinder pistons are moving; free 'em up if they aren't. If you notice that when you push the pistons in on one side's caliper and those on the other side move, you probably have a flexible hose problem. If the brake hoses are original (and they probably are) they tend to swell up internally and inadvertently serve as one way valves. The hydraulic pressure generated by the master cylinder is sufficient to force fluid through the narrowed hoses, but there's no corresponding pressure to return the fluid when you let off the brakes, so the calipers (and rear cylinders) remain engaged. Easily cured with new hoses. mike
  4. mike

    Stolen 02' - Boulder, CO

    Hooray! Way too often these thefts don't have a happy ending. If you have comprehensive insurance on the car, it should cover cost of repairs, and AFAIK front bumper pieces are still available from BMW. And if not, I know a good shop in Knoxville TN that specializes in straightening and replating vintage car bumpers. cheers--and thanks to the cops. mike
  5. mike

    BAT Auction '68 1600

    Very pretty car--the 1192nd US spec 1600 off the line, and obviously built before 1 January 1968, when a bunch of Federal safety requirements took effect. Thus the chrome trim on the dash, the chrome around the instruments, no side reflectors and (possibly) bumper-mounted license plate lights. It also has the far-forward mounted outside mirror; the factory switched over to the later mount location sometime before the first US 2002s left the assembly line in January 1968. The only unauthentic detail I could spot (other than the obvious 2 liter engine/5 speed/shortneck diff setup) is the trunk lid torsion bars. The ones used prior to 1 Jan 1969 had plastic caps on the ends of the arms, and the linkage is different. All the other little details--thin metal door handles and window cranks, cloth center seats (that adjust only, not recline) are correct for the car. Metzler is a long-established German tire brand (not sure if they're still in business); my wife's '63 VW came with Metzlers as OEM equipment. I'm not surprised at the bidding. Increasing prices are a two-edged sword: enthusiasts are gonna be priced out of the market, and we owners are gonna be more scared to drive 'em. mike
  6. mike

    5.5 x 13 FPS wheels

    When I read your post title, I was hoping those were the early style 02 factory alloys. FPS made 5.5 x 13 wheels--identical to those offered by BMW but a half inch wider, and with the proper 2002 offset. They weren't sold through BMW, though. I've only seen one set, and they've disappeared. Anyone ever seen these? mike
  7. Presume your car is a US version, with the seat belt warning light and connections in the seat belts themselves that (once upon a time) triggered a buzzer if you didn't fasten your seat belts. That whole wiring mess is attached to fuse 11 (at least on '72 and 73 cars, possibly on squarelights)--and it's not shown in the wiring diagram. I kept blowing fuse 11 (instruments) and couldn't find the cause until I pulled the fusebox and discovered an extra wire attached to fuse 11. It led to the sensor in the seat that triggered the seat belt buzzer, and the sensor had shorted out to the seat frame. Try pulling your fuse box and carefully examine the wires leading from fuse 11; if you see two green/white strioe wires,one goes to the instruments, the other to the seat belt warning circuit. They're identical so you'll have to guess which is which. But if your instruments don't work after clipping the one wire, then it's the other. Clip it, tape the cut end and see if that stops the interference. At least you won't have to put up with the fasten seatbelt sign any more--after all it's a 2002, not a Boeing 737! cheers mike
  8. And more than a few of those folks are now dead!
  9. mike

    1600 upgrades to 2002 ideas

    Yes to both questions. Unless you're gonna fit side draft carbs to your 1600; then you'll need a tii booster. mike
  10. mike

    Dash lights gremlins

    Three things to check: make sure the cluster is properly grounded. Sometimes you have to run a separate ground wire from the cluster to the car's body--do this if your gas and temp gauges flicker in time to your turn signals. the multiprong plug and socket that connect the cluster to the car's wiring harness. if any of the wires are crossed, it can cause all sorts of strange problems. The socket on the back of the cluster into which you plug in the tach. If you look carefully you'll see two three-prong male plugs; one is used for the clock, the other for the tach. The unused one has a rubber plug insulating it. Make sure you plug the tach back into the correct socket, and that the plug is correctly oriented. From your picture--note that the grey wires that are part of the tach wiring harness go to the two bulbs that illuminate the tach. If you plugged the harness into the cluster wrong, you're crossing tach and lighting wiring... mike
  11. mike

    Distributor position

    The only advice about positioning the dizzy in relation to the head is to make sure the vacuum advance capsule isn't way back along the firewall. The engine has very soft mounts, and there isn't much clearance between dizzy and firewall. If you position it so that the timing mark on the dizzy faces the car's front, you're OK. From the pictures you posted, yours looks fine. mike
  12. Before replacing the booster, I'd try installing the check valve that's missing on your car anyway. That may be your whole problem; those boosters don't go bad very often, and the booster must be holding a vacuum, or the engine would barely (if at all) run with no check valve and a leaking booster. Driving without the vacuum booster operational will mean that you have manual (vs power) brakes. If you're not going far and staying at relatively low speeds, you'll probably be OK. Just don't get yourself into a situation where you have to make a sudden stop, as the pedal effort will be much higher, and you're not used to a non-power brake setup. mike
  13. mike

    1600 upgrades to 2002 ideas

    Fitting sway bars are a definite Thing To Do to a 1600--when 1600s first hit US shores in '67, the first one I saw at an autocross I swear was scraping the door handles on the pavement it leaned so much in the corners--kinda like a motorcycle. Sway bars will definitely help. As for the engine: if the engine number begins with 15xxxxx, then it's a 1.6 liter engine; if it begins with a 166/167 or a 2xxxxxx then it's a 2 liter engine. Also the 1600 cylinder head says "118" cast into the manifold side; 121,E12, E21 are 2002 heads. mike
  14. mike

    Opinion on 1976 BMW 2002

    Look on the back side of the hood and trunk lid, where the trim clip holes would be. What you want to see is evidence of welds in those holes; if you see bondo, then it was a sloppy, quickie job. On the other hand....if it's been at a dealer for a year, bondo-ed holes might have cracked by now... mike
  15. mike

    Who rebuilds 1600 rear difs ?

    Diffs are usually very long-lived--200+k miles isn't unusual. So you might be better off to find a good used one. 4.11 shortnecks aren't terribly difficult to find, and if you've upgraded your engine to a 2002 displacement, you can use a 3.64. Long-necks are more difficult to find used, but they're out there... mike