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  1. 4 points
    Something about a white tii with alloy wheels....
  2. 4 points
  3. 4 points
    For what is worth while adding my 2 cents to the conversation. I would suggest that you take the car apart given its condition, salvage what you can that is usable and/or saleable. (Caution: you may activate your inner hoarder) It will also provide you an opportunity to learn a lil' more about how the car is put together and what are some of the issues to look for as you move forward to the next one. Regardless how much you paid for this one, I think there is a valuable take way from this. Although it did not workout the way you may have anticipated you can take some comfort that you will be more knowledgeable and confident when that next one comes along, Finally I would suggest you get lost in the forum. It contains a wealth of knowledge and more importantly a long list of owners that are quick to offer advice should you have specific questions. welcome to the madness and good luck with your journey,
  4. 3 points
    Twins! Beautiful car. Love those wheels as well. I had my sights on those until the Campys came along. Something about 13" alloys just look right on these cars.
  5. 3 points
    Sorry. Better to be depressed now than later when you have a bunch of time and money invested, and no end in sight.
  6. 3 points
    I'd also suggest getting a different car to start with.
  7. 2 points
    That’s very kind of you, thank you! ive loved all of these cars for nearly 40 years and it’s very nice to get a compliment. Cheers
  8. 2 points
    This is definitely one of the handsomest square tail light '02s on this Forum.
  9. 2 points
    less depressing than sitting on hundreds of dollars in repair panels, then realizing the severity of the situation. parts prices might make it worth your while to sell some of them off. in the for sale section on this site it is preferred that you list the asking price, as opposed to asking for offers. eBay auctions are another option. clean the parts up and post a lot of photos. the parts may be useful to you though, if you do find a better one to work on. the rust you see is the tip of the iceberg, as they say. I've seen enough already to judge the rest of the car. I've also seen heroic efforts put into bringing cars back and fear that the repairs are temporary at best. Cutting out rust holes to weld little patches to thin rusted metal will not last long. I just hope those cars never get wet, or the (next) owner is bound to be disappointed. Painting is so expensive to do right that future blistering would suck. I love welding, but would not attempt to restore this car.
  10. 2 points
    Outstanding sir! Those wheels...
  11. 2 points
    The water pump is a pretty straightforward job. My car had non-working A/C when I got it and I removed it. The bracket just unbolts. I'd go ahead and remove it if you don't intend to make the A/C work again. The bracket will be easier to remove with the radiator out of the car which is necessary for the water pump job. People are always looking for parts like this, I'd list it on this site for sale if you don't need it.
  12. 2 points
    It's not that weird. Anything on the drivers-side is more likely to see more use, thus more wear. A short-armed, friend-less, and tragically single previous owner probably fiddled with his wing mirror regularly, and the passenger side never saw the same amount of fiddlin'. Mine are both surprisingly tight...
  13. 1 point
    +1 on dismantling to learn more about 2002s...and... One more suggestion: look for a good body shell--perhaps someone else's abandoned restoration project, or a stripped but un (structurally) rusted shell--then use the useful mechanical bits from your current car and make a good one out of the two. Dismantling the current car will give you lots of experience with the car's innards, which will come in handy regardless of how you find your next '02. Don't be discouraged--as was pointed out, better to earn now that you're facing a difficult-to-impossible task than after you've put a lot of time, money and sweat into the project. And there's plenty of help here on the FAQ. mike
  14. 1 point
  15. 1 point
    Super cheap. It is a Mr gasket SBC kit. Sorry I gave the other one away. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. 1 point
    Well, this is a bit depressing. Anyone interested in buying? 😅
  17. 1 point
    Oh! Not a good project for a beginner like me ☹️
  18. 1 point
  19. 1 point
    Hold off on buying any new parts until you learn a bit more. It is not looking promising, based on your photos. Sorry. Tom
  20. 1 point
    No rubbing so far, but it is CLOSE. I’d say I have a finger widths gap between rear tire and the lip.
  21. 1 point
    If your A/C compressor bracket is the style used by both Behr and Frigiking for the old York piston compressor (AKA the octopus bracket) it indeed makes it a PITA to change the water pump. I solved that problem some years ago (maybe 1981) by sawing off one of the arms that bolted over one of the two water pump mounting bolts. The compressor hasn't fallen off yet so I guess the bracket was kinda over-engineered. When installing a new water pump, it's much easier to install it under the remaining compressor bracket that bolts over the water pump if you grind a few mm off the top of the corresponding bolt hole on the pump casting. But if you're not gonna use your A/C--or are gonna install a Clardy style compressor bracket sometime in the future, by all means remove the current bracket. Cheers mike
  22. 1 point
    Any issues with rubbing with the 185s? I mounted 175/70-13s to my Campy ET13s to be safe. No rubbing at all. I wonder if I should have gone with 185/70s. The car rides on Suspension Techniques lowering springs. Not sure of the drop.
  23. 1 point
    Here is a nice new one for comparison. (Photo taken from Roger's Tii site). If you do remove the door card, remember that there is a hole in the back of the wing window knob, to allow you to push the plastic disc out from behind. Something like an Allen wrench works pretty well. If you look very closely at the front rim on the knob, there will be a tiny dimple aligned with that hole on the back.
  24. 1 point
    Ray you continue to be the man of mystery. Milkshakes, and still not a bit resentful of being robbed.
  25. 1 point
  26. 1 point
    I'm not a fan either, atrocious customer service (and you pay absolute top dollar for that pleasure). Feel free to PM me for any info.
  27. 1 point
    You guys are funny... although I couldn't resist digging out the one I removed, to take another look at it. It was the passenger side on my car that has extra wibble. There is also an issue with the way the wing window closes. As you can see, it is tipped too far back at the top and needs to be nudged into place while turning the knob to get it to close without snagging on the seal. The markings on the glass of this little window are different than on the other side, so something mysterious happened in past, but unfortunately, I am no Columbo. I do not know how to correct the alignment issue. I do suspect it may have to do with why the mechanism has developed slop though, with someone over tightening to try and get it closed. Looking at the top hinge/pivots, both sides look about the same to me. I did replace the original one with a used unit, but it is similarly floppy. The one I took out was missing the little cap on the bottom. Or at least it was loose... but it is missing now. I think it is here somewhere. The gears are nice and tight, so that's not the source of the wobble. I suspect it is due to the splayed out slot that the glass attaches to. That metal is not very strong.. On this one it looks like the threads are stripped, inside the pot-metal piece. The next time I am inside the door, I may try to make some improvements; but it does not bother me that much. The alignment issue is a bigger problem. Hopefully these photos shed light on the mystery of what's hiding behind the door panel. TOm
  28. 1 point
    Hardly....after completing an engine job, having me bring all the drive line gear there for reinstallation, they have waltzed me around for months and now tell me they are too busy to finish, come and get your parts, find another shop....draw your own conclusion
  29. 1 point
    While borescopes are indeed pretty cool. I could have that engine down to a bare block in the time it takes ya to drive to Walmart Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  30. 1 point
    BMW Blue Parts Book (page 63/2) does not call them up for USA '02s. Probably the very early US bound cars (pre sealed beam h/lights) may have had them.
  31. 1 point
    Not U.S. equipment as far as I know. I was an ‘02 owner from ‘73 (including a ‘67, a ‘70, a brand new ‘76, a ‘72 tii I parted in ‘74, and a ‘74 2002A I parted in ‘75) and I never saw one of these “dog bowls” until the late 1980’s and that happened, perhaps coincidentally, to be on a Euro-spec car (a Bauer targa).... I’m happy to revise my opinion if other original owners took delivery of U.S.-spec cars with the rear dog bowls. Best regards, Steve
  32. 1 point
    The master-tinkerer has been rendered tinkerless!
  33. 1 point
    Local BMW mag shows a lot of local cars:
  34. 1 point
    My ‘76 sitting on H&R sports, Koni Yellows and 13”x6” rims. Cheers from Hamilton ON, Canada. Justin
  35. 1 point
    Picked up today and off to Idaho with the new owner. My search for a replacement continues, although I have another Silver Cabriolet in the garage to help with the separation anxiety. Mark92131
  36. 1 point
    Rear subframe, trailing arms, and differential installed.
  37. 1 point
    I've been really busy with life the past few months. In the middle of an internship that may be a career move, building satellites! Have some very patient people waiting on me to finish a few projects. New parts are in production. Hood Latch rod restoration finished. I found stainless split pins from McMaster that were a nice alternative to the factory pins. McMaster #91610A510. Funny little thing I never knew were the differences in the cable mount. There is an early and late style. Early style has a normal bolt with a folded-over retainer. Late style used a bolt with a round head with a chunk missing. Early: Late: Roll Pins All together. I know the bar is "correct" in blue zinc with nickel-plated ends, but the yellow-zinc is oh so nice. Wiper Arms: The wiper arms were polished to a satin finish and then clear coated. The threaded ends checked out great (thankfully). Fresh plated hardware (though the nuts need chroming), fresh nozzles, and fresh wipers rounded things out. I am rebuilding the wiper motor right now. Fuel Tank: Restored the factory fuel tank. It was in great shape thankfully. Started by cleaning the inside thoroughly, great news that no coatings were needed. Next was stripping off all the old paint. Painted the bottom portion with a brush and the heavy-duty epoxy primer (as used on the undercarriage). Shot the top of the tank with the same stuff, just in a paint gun. Then sprayed the bottom with Wurth Schutz. New drain plug (M10x1.0) hardware from Belmetric (#DP10X1.0AHYLW) The top was painted satin black, and one more thing done! "STEALTH FUEL PUMP RECIPE: Parts: -Late E30 325i Carrier and fuel-level sender -Early E30 (or similar) low-pressure pre-pump Since I'm going carbs, this setup is also compatible with a standard carb'd M10. I've seen a number of variances surrounding this setup but this one is ideal for this car. No external fuel pumps, no drilling/mounting, OEM parts, not too shabby. In addition, the early 12 gallon tank is roughly 8" deep, this pump (with filter) ends up right there at 8". No cutting and lengthening needed (and the fuel sender will still read accurately). This same setup (with a return nozzle (early E30 carrier) and a high-pressure pump) is the one "6goesinto2" brings up and is pretty common for 318i-injection-swappers as well. The low-pressure pump options: 1) "E21/E30 low-pressure in tank pump" aka the Vega pump for E28 guys. There are a lot of part numbers, including... Airtex #E8187H and Spectra #SP1159. This pump is rated for 3.5-6psi roughly, so it's plenty for a carbed car. 2) The dark horse, from Volvo. This one also has a lot of part numbers, but #23430100 works. It's claimed to have the same pump rating, but I still need to verify. It fits the E30 carrier much better than the other pump, but that's splitting hairs. Terminal wires need to be changed to match the pump. And there we have it, a stealth electric fuel pump! Thank you to those on the FAQ who have brought up this setup in the past. Radiator (FINAL DESIGN): So finally the radiator specs were finalized and I called Patrick up at Midnight Motorsports for help. He said to send over the (US-made) core and he'd tack on the end-tanks and pipes. He'd then send it down for me to test fit, and then I'd send it back up to him to finish it up. It's great to have something Patrick's made on the car, he's been one of my favorite 02 people since forever. His gratuitous speed holes were icing on the cake. FYI: He's made a template of this radiator, so it is possible to make more of this design if someone wishes. Here's the test fit.
  38. 1 point
    Yes very sad that my dad has passed but I will continue his legacy and knowledge that he has instilled in me for the past 27 years.
  39. 1 point
  40. 1 point
    I guess Wes and Gus will see an increase in business.
  41. 1 point
    Just put all that in your shaker and sprinkle it on the 123 and you are done.
  42. 1 point
    While the electrical system of the 2002 is no Lucas catastrophe, it's still 60's level technology and has its fair share of shortcomings. I'll refrain from labeling it 'poorly designed,' but the headlight circuit is one of the primary 2002 electrical systems that has lots of 'room for improvement.' Also, with the popularity of adding additional fog and/or driving lights to these cars, this makes for the perfect time to rewire and improve this whole system while adding such upgrades. A quick note on 2002 wiring Generally speaking, Germans are clever, organized people, and this shows in the 2002 wiring. Here are some of the more subtle but clever points to keep in mind when looking at the 2002 wiring diagram: 1.) The SOLID RED wires all go straight to the battery. These are the ones to be careful with. Don't short one and blow up your battery! Everything electrical component on the car can be traced back to one of these red wires for its ultimate power supply (usually via the ignition switch). 2.) All SOLID color wires are UNFUSED. Screwing up and shorting one of these wires will likely damage something. 3.) The SOLID GREEN wires go to the ignition switch and are hot (+12V from the battery) when the key is in the 'Start' and 'Run' positions. 4.) The SOLID PURPLE wires go to the ignition switch and are hot (+12V from the battery) when the key is in the 'Accessory' and 'Run' positions. 5.) All 2-color or STRIPED wires are FUSED and therefore safer; shorting one of these will just blow the corresponding fuse. 6.) The SOLID BROWN wires are always ground. Every electrical component on the car eventually terminates to ground via one of these brown wires (You probably already knew this one!) The Problem: A relay is a device used to switch a high-current load (e.g. a big bright headlight) based on a much lower-current input signal (often a switch). The early roundie 2002 low beams use a relay like this, however the high beams have no relay and draw their power instead through the light switch on the dashboard; something that is NOT good for the longevity of that switch. Plus there's also the safety risk associated with having that high current path in the interior cockpit. Here's the 'proper' current path for the low beams, traced in blue, from the battery, through the relay, to the fuse, to the headlight, and finally to ground: In comparison, here's the path for the high beams from the battery, through the switches, to the fuse, to the headlight, and finally to ground: Not as pretty, right? All that high current for the high beams goes through the ignition switch, main light switch, and high beam/turn signal stalk! Note that on later (I *think* all square-tail) models, even though they added and additional high beam relay, BMW still just routed both the high and low beam current through the switches in a similar manner! Why the Bavarians didn't just use a second relay in the same manner as the roundie low beams were done I'll never know, but no matter, that's what the FAQ is here for! The Solution: No that we know what we do and don't want, here's how to go about fixing things. The simplest method, and what I recommend to everyone whether upgrading anything else or not, is to add in a relay for the high beams. This can be done easily with essentially NO modification to the existing wiring harness, just a reconfiguration of the old low beam relay and a new SPDT relay, as follows: If it isn't obvious to you, the way this works is as follows: - Fresh 12V supply is taken straight from the battery to provide the power for both low and high beams. - The existing wiring from the main light switch (yellow/white for low beams) and stalk (white/blue for high beams) are used as the inputs to control the relay coils. - The relay outputs then hook up to the rest of the existing wiring to the fuse panel and then to the lights themselves. - The low beam relay coil is grounded THROUGH the high beam filaments, so that the low beams turn OFF when the high beams come ON. (This is the right way to do things, for both legal and practical reasons). Depending on your exact year, you may need to run a new large (say 10) gauge wire (preferably RED!) from the battery for the 12V supply, and if you do NOT have a later model with the factory high beam relay, then you will need to find the connector #89 where the high beam white/blue wire meets the white wire, disconnect these, and run new leads for both from that junction up to your new high beam relay: If you're planning to upgrade to H4 or similar higher output headlights, most would advocate replacing the existing wiring to the lights themselves with new, larger gauge wire. While this is generally a wise idea, if your existing wiring is in reasonably good shape my above circuit should still also work without overtaxing anything. This is because the overall run of the wiring (from the battery to the lights to ground) is now much shorter than the original path that went all the way up through the switches and back again. I like this because it helps to keep the wiring cleaner and easier to sort out again in future, but if you're at all nervous, by all means error on the side of caution and run big new wires in place of the original ones! Additional fog and/or driving lights Now that we have the main lights all sorted out, it's time to move on to adding those beautiful auxiliary lights on to our 2002s! Here there are basically two options: fog lights and driving lights. But which ones do you want? Fog lights, as the name implies, are intended for driving in foggy or other poor-visibility conditions and provide diffuse, low down light that is not reflected off the fog/rain/snow etc. and back up into your eyes. Driving lights, on the other hand, are more like high beams and are aimed higher and are meant to provide additional illumination down-road in the dark when weather conditions are more favorable and there is not any oncoming traffic to worry about blinding. Unless you live in a crappy climate in Europe where fog lights are truly warranted, I think that most 2002 drivers are better suited with driving lights. An additional bonus that I like to leverage with auxiliary lights is that, if done correctly, you can also use them all the time at lower intensity as daytime running lights (DRLs)! I accomplished this by using a DPDT relay to power my driving lights in SERIES (which makes them about 30-40% of full brightness) whenever the car is on, and then switching them to PARALLEL (100% full brightness) whenever the high beams come on. This also means I don't even need to run a separate switch for them, as they just use the existing high beam switch. Whatever the case, we are fortunate enough to have a connector provided by BMW up in the nose specifically for the addition of such driving lights. It's the #9 connector on the white/purple high beam wire most wiring diagrams: If you don't care about DRL functionality, then you can simply add in a relay, again run a new red wire straight from the battery to supply the power, and use this connector to trigger the relay coil, and you're done! But if you're like me and feel that higher visibility = greater safety (shout out to all Colorado, Inca, Golf, Mint,Verona, and Tiaga cars!), then here's the circuit to wire them up to double as DRLs: I didn't draw it because I already had one, but for this you CANNOT take your +12V power straight from the battery, otherwise the DRLs would stay on even when you turn the car off, and quickly kill you battery. So you need to find/make a source for switched +12V power instead. For this I recommend adding another relay that is powered straight from the battery but that is triggered (on squaries) using the green wire that originally powered the headlight relays (which is now unused and available after upgrading those relays), or (on roundies) you can run a new spur of green ignition wire from one of the unused terminals on the back of side of fuses 3, 4, or 11: Now, you will have a relay that provides power only when the ignition is on that you can use for all sorts of things, such as the power source for these DRLs! You should also add a new fuse (I use 20A) somewhere in your fog/driving light circuit in order to keep everything properly protected! When it's all done, here's how it works: With the ignition on but the high beams off, the current flow is through the lights in series as follows: But when the high beams are switched on, the relay switches the path and the lights are instead powered in parallel, thus: Well, I hope that some of you find all of this helpful, and are able to use this knowledge to make your cars brighter and more enjoyable! Feel free to comment or PM me if you find any errors or have further questions! -Carl P.S. A quick note of thanks to @Ireland Engineering, @Nijn, and @323IJOE all of whom have created wonderful colored versions of the 2002 wiring diagrams! I'm not sure whose specifically I used shots of here in this write-up, but you all deserve thanks for your efforts!
  43. 1 point
  44. 1 point
    The fuel return vacuum line should be connected to a manifold vacuum nipple on the intake manifold. This will open the fuel return valve (sending some gas back to the tank) during idle (high vacuum). If you plug this into the ported vacuum ("B") on the Weber, you will get no vacuum at idle (max gas flow to the carb) and less gas when the vacuum kicks in. Opposite of what you want! This fuel return valve was designed to be connected to the front vacuum port on the Solex carb. This is a "reverse" ported vacuum source. It gives vacuum at idle (sending fuel back to the tank) and no vacuum at off idle (producing max gas flow to the carb). Since there is no "reverse ported" vacuum spigot on the Weber, connect your line "A" to a T-fitting on the vacuum line going to the air pump control valve. John
  45. 1 point
    Also remember when electrical troubleshooting, the clever Germans tried to help you out some: all SOLID colored wires are unfused and can be traced back to the battery (usually via the ignition switch) and all STRIPED wires are fuses and can be traced back to the fuse panel!
  46. 1 point
    I call it synchronizing the dizzy to the engine. Remember when the commandos would synchronize watches. If everyone else's watch says 12 noon and your says 11:45, you are going to be late for lunch!
  47. 1 point
    TDC, ignition stroke on No 4 cylinder is most likely.
  48. 1 point
    Having recently sorted out three tiis that had sat for varying lengths of time, this is now the recipe I would advise for either sorting out a fuel delivery problem or resurrecting a long-dormant tii. I just did it with Old Blue, the '73tii I just bought that had been sitting for ten years. Pull the pickup tube from the gas tank. If, as soon as you open the tank up, it smells like varnish, you already know that you're going to need to systematically clean everything -- at a bare minimum, you'll need to drain the old gas and blow out all the lines. Inspect the screen at the base of the pickup tube. Verify that both the outflow and return lines on the pickup tube aren't clogged (I've just seen three tiis with this problem). Ream then out with a coathanger and compressed air. Shine a flashlight in the gas tank and make sure it's not full of rust or sediment. I've seen them look like pot roast. If it's bad, pull the gas tank and clean it. At a minimum, pressure wash it, dry it, put it back in, and refill it with five gallons of clean gas. Pull the fuel pump and inspect the conical screen at the inlet. It may be clogged or completely missing. If the fuel filter inlet screen is missing, tap the inlet side out onto a paper towel. If rust and sediment come out, I'd recommend you replace the fuel pump. Disconnect the fuel filter to the left side of the radiator. With the fuel pump and fuel filter disconnected, blow the main fuel line out with compressed air into a bottle to catch what comes out. Inspect it. If there's massive amount of rust, blow brake cleaner into it and repeat until the rust is no longer visible when blown into a clean rag. Undo the return line from the back of the Kugelfisher pump. Do the same blowing out of the return line. Remove the pressure valve from the back of the Kugelfisher pump and visually inspect it, looking through it against a bright light. There should be a pinhole of light visible. If there's not, clean it with brake cleaner until there is. Pull the banjo bolt out of the front of the Kugelfisher pump and inspect the barrel-shaped screen inside it. I've spent hours removing and cleaning them. As said above, if the fuel smells like varnish, you really should blow out the plastic injection lines with compressed air, and pull the injectors and have them cleaned and tested. Reassemble everything, preferably replacing every fuel hose -- or at least every fuel hose that is too soft or rock-hard -- with OEM. Put a fuel pressure gauge just before the Kugelfisher pump. Turn on the ignition to run the fuel pump. It should read 29psi. Inspect every part of the fuel delivery system for leaks. Try to start the car. Look in the throttle body at the cold start injector. If no fuel is being squirted, you'll have to troubleshoot the thermo time switch, or simply wire the cold start injector temporarily to the battery, or semi-permanently via a switch. Start the car. Inspect the plastic injection lines carefully for leaks, both at the base of the lines at the Kugelfisher pump as well as in the lines themselves (they do crack with age). Look in the throttle body at the cold start injector to make sure it's not leaking. If the car still doesn't run right, follow the procedure in the "BMW 2002 Tii Injection Manual" to the letter to isolate the problem to the delivery valves, the suction valves, or the injectors. Add to that the information in my article about pulling the head off the Kugelfisher pump. Don't pull the head if you don't need do, but that article (and other posts) tell about removing the delivery and suction valves and verifying, using a small wooden dowel, that the plungers ("pistons") inside the Kugelfisher pump's head aren't stuck and are free to move up and down. But worry about the injectors first. Old varnished fuel MAY sit in the Kfish pump head, but it DEFINITELY will sit in the injectors. --Rob
  49. 1 point
    If the first one lasted 40 years, the second one will be effectively permanent....
  50. 1 point
    Two lefts don't make a right... But three do.

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