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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/14/2019 in all areas

  1. 10 points
    Although some don't particularly care for my brand of social media content and flow, I do at times pay it forward. SO there is that. If you are rebuilding your door cards and have found the original INNER window rub strip has gone the way of dust. Here is a quick fix. The cost of a single new strip is over $50. My repair costs about $10 for both windows. See pictures. I used the soft side of black self-adhesive Velcro and glued it to the original metal substrate. I removed all the old fuzzy material leaving the rubber backing attached. Apply contact cement and affix. Works and looks great. But what do I know.
  2. 4 points
  3. 3 points
    It's been said many times, so I'll say it this time... Maybe just drive the car for a while, get used to it. They're really pretty good just being hopped up a little bit. K swap would be way easier and is way more common than the F20/F22. There are even adapter plates already available to BMW 5 speed transmissions. But really, I'd just drive it for a while and get used to it. My last one had a bit of a built M10 (stock) engine. Was it slow compared to my s54 motor? Yep. Was it slow in general? Nope. The engines really are good.
  4. 2 points
    John Car Transport (603) 479-0956 is based in Bedford NH but transports around NE and beyond. Works with VSR. He moved my non running 2002 no problem in his enclosed trailer. If you call him, you will be dealing with him (or his wife) not some broker.
  5. 2 points
    Milford CT to <where>? 🙂 I can't help with your request, unfortunately. However, I bet someone has a referral to share. Jason
  6. 2 points
    I'll be in LG!!! S2000 swapped coming in hot! sorry in advance for the exhaust db.....
  7. 2 points
    Peter, The 2015 Ebay auction Seller's ID was chriszilla The link below is for a chriszilla on Ebay that may well be the same. This one is in Horseheads in NY which is not that far away from Farmington. HTH. https://www.ebay.com/contact/sendmsg?item_id=1&recipient=chriszilla&message_type_id=14
  8. 2 points
  9. 2 points
    The high water mark of 2002/S14 conversion sales: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-bmw-2002tii-11/ What an absolutely gorgeous car (minus the goofy speaker “pods” on the doors). I was fortunate enough to see it in person and it was spectacular...hope the new owner is driving it.
  10. 1 point
    Don't forget to get all the oil out of the head bolt holes and clean the threads in the block.
  11. 1 point
  12. 1 point
    It's better than death by fire. I've been preaching this since 2006 on this board. The vent line hasn't been used since 2004, It's abandoned in place.
  13. 1 point
    Hello Everyone ! This is something I have wanted to do for a while now and finally found a clean shell to start with ! I have a 2.0 liter gm ecotec engine mated with an Ar-5 transmission from a Saturn sky ready for the car. I want to do a few other things before I get started with that . The firs two thing I want to do is 1) get a rear end in the car ,now I’m not super familiar with all the BMW stuff yet but I’m learning and that where I’m hoping you can help. What my current plan is , get a “CA tuned” monster rear end kit and run a E30 lsd . The max power for this car will be Around 400hp.... the second thing I’m working on is getting a cage in the car. Has anyone on here put in any of the pre vent kits out there I think I saw two one by auto-power maybe ? How do they fit? If any one can’t point me in the right direction here looking for a weld in option . See pics below of my shop and the car . Thanks everyone !
  14. 1 point
    Got the powertrain all mocked up along with the tunnel and firewall cut. Plan on giving its first trip in this weekend.
  15. 1 point
    Hello All This car is now at the mechanic. Hopefully they are able to get it running without too much effort. We'll see. @TodB has suggested I attempt to track the former owner that had the engine built so I can get the compression ratio and other background information on the car. This is a good idea. Attached is link to an advertisement from June of 2015 that I believe was placed by that seller based on the matching VIN: http://findclassicars.com/bmw/51708-restored-and-modified-1976-bmw-2002.html I am hopeful someone here will know the seller in Farmington, New York and will be able to put me in touch with him or her. (Yes, it is a shame the car no longer looks like it did in this ad!) Thank you in advance for any assistance you can provide! Peter
  16. 1 point
    Toca, The ball joint separator recommended by Bibm5 work well. The "Pickle Fork" option works, but I think you'll be frustrated if you go that route. If you're are really stuck on tight, then be prepared for a loud crack when they pop loose. Tighten the tool slowly, and be careful to no over-torque it. I've broken several of the Chinese knock-offs over the years by over tightening them (either stripped the threads or broke the tool). Once you get the tool tight, tap the joint with a hammer, and it'll usually pop loose.
  17. 1 point
    The topic started off with green/black clips topic but went off topic with him asking Max about other clamps. The talk about lock mechanism was specifically about black clips in question. The original poster of that topic (the one asking about metal clamps is not the topic starter there) is talking about clips specifically. Max's theory actually sounds more logical, however I am unable to notice much of a height difference between different clips to justify theory. Also sourced this picture which adds up the "near window regulator" story:
  18. 1 point
    Yeah Steve, Pretty good deal. They have been in the radio storage container for probably 20 years, plugged it in and out came Lyin' Eyes. All part of supporting the Alpina build. dq
  19. 1 point
    Thanks. Very cool! No offense to Buckeye, who I greatly respect, but Max sure seems confident... I’m voting with Max until he’s proven wrong.... 😉 Regards, Steve
  20. 1 point
    Hi Steve! This has been covered in numerous threads on the FAQ. There is 13 holes for the clips, per card. As per realOEM: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=2511-EUR-03-1971-114-BMW-1600&diagId=51_3359 You need 24 pcs of green and 2 of black. 26 total, 13 per card. Adds up. On topic On another thread here
  21. 1 point
    Ken do I get a vig on this one??? LOL
  22. 1 point
    If he/she is a flipper, where will it go? Already feels like it is close to the top of the price range, S14 or not. ~Jason
  23. 1 point
    Visited Veronika at VSR. Fitted the Cocomat templates and went over punch list items for The Misselwood Concours in July. Snow in the Perpetual Winterlands means driving season is over for all the low sodium BMWs. Back to the 2007 X3 6-speed.
  24. 1 point
    LOL, no, had templates to fit, cabrios are a lot different than 2002s.
  25. 1 point
    wow...you brought a car to VSR to have floormats installed? 🤣
  26. 1 point
  27. 1 point
    Ummm.... are you certain he was referring to ball joint separators, Nick? 😉 Best regards, Steve
  28. 1 point
    Try Amazon or Harbour Freight for similar tools......they are a must have IMO
  29. 1 point
  30. 1 point
    Honestly, there are sooo many wires there that I was concerned I would get confused and never get it wired up correctly if I started cutting. As it was, I still made mistakes and had to triple check my work. If concerned about resale, it also makes sense but that was not my main concern. That said, if I was to cut wires and make it permanent, I would do lineman's soldered joints rather than crimp butt-joints. I used them on all my EFI wiring. Good luck! Lineman splice/ joint:
  31. 1 point
    Don't forget Rob's advice. Get a compressor fan strong enough to "Suck small dogs off the street"....😁
  32. 1 point
    If you are looking for more power...To paraphrase a sage from Carnation Wa, that posts often, keep the M10 and ....."Turbo".
  33. 1 point
    I’d strap a snail onto the M10 before trying a funky swap like that
  34. 1 point
    Anything will go in- rotaries even had their phase. I think the only rule is that you're not allowed to hack up the shell of a pristine, original- paint car. Anything else is forgiven- IF you finish it! t guilty of not finishing it.
  35. 1 point
  36. 1 point
    This is the owner of 2700056 writing. The earliest US spec tii is VIN 2700177, a euro exemplar retrofitted with a provisional pollution control system, which was submitted to the US government for pollution testing. I am unaware of its location. My car (euro) is perhaps the eldest extant ii. The 02 club of Germany does not have an older exemplar in its register and neither did the US 2002 registry when it was logging VINs. 2760001 happened to be in the same restoration shop as mine (South Bay Auto Body Shop in San Pedro, CA, Vladan Trifunonvic, proprietor) simultaneously, in 1993-1994. It was newly purchased by a woman I understood to be the owner of a BMW service shop and underwent a full restoration at that time.
  37. 1 point
    I saw this posted on Instagram and thought it deserved to have a proper post here on the faq. I will just quote the post “The first 2002tii in America. Neither European or U.S. spec, but a one-off, factory built mix. Max Hoffman imported this very car to Ann Arbor, to the EPA’s test lab to certify the fuel injected-2002 for sale in the American market. It lived a quiet life in Michigan until a few years ago, when it was found on Craigslist by the current owner. Never been restored, 41,000 original miles. Quiet, tight, fast and a window into what made the company great when it had almost nothing to lose and almost everything to prove. A happy little time capsule and one of the sweetest driving cars ever met.” Again, this is a quote from the IG post and NM/NA. It is amazing that his friend just found this hanging out on Craigslist. It could be the most valuable tii ever produced! Would have been nice to see more pictures, but there were only these two posted. Maybe someone has more information or history on this? J
  38. 1 point
    The battery will be distributed in two areas. The first is between the rear fender wells in the forward cavity of the trunk space. The frame has been reinforced in this area to support the weight of the battery (roughly 240lbs). This will be the "rear" battery. The "front" battery will either replace the rear seat or be located up in the engine bay. I'd prefer not to mount it in the engine bay to keep that area looking nice and clean, but it may have to go there. Lots of pros and cons to work through on that one... Look for a future blog post on battery selection and location.
  39. 1 point
    And altitude compensation!
  40. 1 point
    The turbo kugelfischer pump is a mechanical marvel: it responds to engine speed, throttle position and manifold pressure. A 3 dimensional fuel map inside a mechanical device....
  41. 1 point
    HI, Thanks for your interest in the Alpina. I will be restoring back to as close to original as it was when it left Alpina. Unfortunately Alpina didn't keep records before 1978 so, I have to go by what the previous owner told me as far as what was done at the Alpina shop. What I know so far is, it had a stock Tii engine,Sheel seats,auxiliary guage cluster and sway bars. I'm hoping to acquire the original sway bars and have a set of Borrani steel wheels for it. Stay tuned for anything else that I can find on it's history. Any help or advice on history would be greatly appreciated. Best Regards from Colorado, Dan
  42. 1 point
  43. 1 point
    2700056 was in Oregon 4 years ago. Owned by faq ID Schuetz1619.
  44. 1 point
    Not sure if it was mentioned. But the original post on IG was from Sam Smith from road and track. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  45. 1 point
    A gentleman out of Charleston, SC. We both had our cars at the Hilton Head show last fall. I'm not sure if he is on this board or not. His first name is Robert. He's the second owner from 1994 onward, it's Agave and tan with @ 73k miles, original condition. Not sure what alloys it wears, but they are original equipment. My original '73 Verona looked weak sitting next to his.
  46. 1 point
  47. 1 point
    I have to say that, in disassembling 10+ 2002's, the only bushings I've found that are USUALLY worn out are the front radius rod bushings at the subframe. They tear apart. EVERY OTHER BUSHING in the car is usually intact. Rear subframe bushings sometimes tear, but not all that often. On one car, the rubber had rusted off the sleeve... Trailing arm bushings were once or twice a bit questionable, but almost always they press out and look like new on the inside. Front lower control arm bushings DO fail occasionally- but only maybe on 3 or 4 out of 20+ arms. And these were parts cars picked up for a few hundred bucks at most. Not maintained, cared- for cars. They were beat on until they broke, often spectacularly. So yes, replacing bushings isn't a BAD idea, but before you go hog- wild, make sure other things are ok- like: the center link, the steering box, the ball joints, the engine mounts, the transmission mounts......... What I've found in the last 20 years or so... t
  48. 1 point
    everyone stop staring at it - pick up a tool and actually do something. like I said TAKE IT APART AND THE TRUTH WILL SET YOU FREE.
  49. 1 point
    It is not a Classic Car seat. Thanks for the unanimous post though. Thank you for all the informative post! I am confident these are Scheel or A.S.S seats. Ray, mine are very similar to yours and it would be great if they were the factory option seats. http://www.bmwmobiletradition-online.com/bmw/diagrams/s/c/26.png
  50. 1 point
    http://www.cyclopticgaze.com/2002/25rear_rebuild.html
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