Jump to content


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/21/2019 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    got it down on a flatbed, doesn't drive... trying to figure out how to get it on the driveway
  2. 3 points
    To the question, just pump the tires up and get a little help to push it. They're pretty easy to move around.
  3. 3 points
    I've never been able to make that work. It hits the subframe big- time. Is the exit of the collector too low? Because: Your engine is tipped way the hell too far back- you should be able to get your arm between the distributor and the bodywork. Try posting pix of your engine mount brackets, and maybe we can figure out what's going on from there. 'cause SOMETHING's not right! t
  4. 3 points
    Did you change the oil pan? The E21 oil pan is different and wont fit with the 2002 or similar type front subframe. If you do decide to change the pan, you also need to change the oil pump to fit the pan. Remember the E21 has a steering rack attached to its subframe, in which the engine sits differently. Hope this helps. Cheers, Matt
  5. 2 points
    Not sure if beautiful to others but sure to me:
  6. 2 points
    Then you probably shouldn't have started a thread asking if this car would have more value because of it's low VIN?
  7. 1 point
    Can I copy and paste this on BaT under my name? (snicker snicker)
  8. 1 point
    Hah. You should look at his other post where the motor is in pieces in the engine bay. She ain't crankin' for nuthin :) But I agree with all, that body is clean minus the minor damage, which is totally fixable. You found a good one!
  9. 1 point
  10. 1 point
    I much prefer this one, 73 tii. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-bmw-2002tii-35/
  11. 1 point
    Welded on the Ground Control bits, installed the rebound adjustable Koni inserts, Eibach springs, GC camber plates. These are the e30m3 struts but it's the same for the 2002 guys. The rear is interesting, between the 02 chassis and the e30m3 subframe I need springs in the 11 to 13 inch long range... All of this is temporary until I get around to another set of MCS dampers. Loved them in the tii, they're just super ultra mega.
  12. 1 point
    It's that time of year again! 2020 is quickly approaching and I'll be compiling the new BMW 2002 calendar shortly. Please send your best 1600/2002/touring/turbo/tii pics by November 27th to be considered. Email submissions to: riley@thepaddock.xyz If your photo is chosen, I'll send you $20 or a free calendar.
  13. 1 point
  14. 1 point
    Hey, thanks for that. Rogers buys a bit from me, so I'll shoot him an email.
  15. 1 point
    Yep, the problem lies somewhere else but the distributor cap or the header. Should find the real issue to fix. e21 oil pan is first one because it doesn't allow engine set in the right place and orientation. Then look for more if there's still some issue.
  16. 1 point
    I’m with Toby on the starting point for your jetting. You didn’t say what size chokes are in the carbs but with a stock engine including camshaft I wouldn’t go any bigger than 32mm. The other idle problem could easily be your distributor. You need to check and see what is happening with the centrifugal advance below 2000 rpm. If there is a sudden loss of advance around where you are trying to get it to idle you will never get it to run correctly. For instance if the advance is 16-18 deg at 1000 rpm it might idle very nicely with the throttle at 1% ( just a reference number) but if the advance suddenly falls off to 8-10 deg the engine will probably stall, you might need 2-3% throttle to make it idle at that amount of advance. The problem is if the throttle can’t close to less than 2% because of the idle speed screw then the engine speed will never fall low enough for the advance to drop below 16-18 deg so it will “idle” at 1500+. You need to get the distributor to have a stable advance from at least 1500 RPM and below. I chased this problem for months when I put my 1st set of DCOEs on my car 44 years ago.
  17. 1 point
  18. 1 point
    Coffee flavored ice cream?
  19. 1 point
    Nah, just wash it out well with water. Brake fluid's soluble in water, and the diaphragm is neither soluble in water nor brake fluid. If the can is rusted TOO badly, then it may wear holes in in the rubber eventually, maybe, but I've cleaned out 3 that were full, and then driven the cars for years with no booster problems other than the cosmetic rust on the outsides. t ain't afraid o' no boost(er)
  20. 1 point
    It's probably a plugged idle circuit, honestly, if you don't have a big air leak. a stock engine will run on almost ANY jets... That said, 125 mains, 32 mm venturies, 200 air correctors, 50 'idle' jets is one set of numbers I've used on 'stock'ish engines with luck. What you find is that the jetting changes the most with venturi size and cam overlap- and air pressure&temp! And even those factors don't make a huge difference, if you're tuned well initially. t
  21. 1 point
  22. 1 point
    Definitely turning into a Streisand Effect thread: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Streisand_effect.
  23. 1 point
    I'm ordering coffee from him tomorrow (true story!)
  24. 1 point
  25. 1 point
    Nice work - Once painted you won't be able to tell it was changed. Pro all the way. Jason
  26. 1 point
    We replaced the spare tire well, as it was rusting. We bought the replacement from Wolf. They sprayed the color and shutz in the way the factory did. Thanks for the tip from Andrew Wilson on that.
  27. 1 point
    You’re a lucky guy, Jack! Regards, Steve
  28. 1 point
    That's certainly more rust repair than I thought they would find. Glad you had it taken care of now.
  29. 1 point
    Very nice! Underside of your car still looks like you and Jason recently refreshed it.
  30. 1 point
    Yes, there was a motivated buyer. I will certainly keep you in mind if I come across another. JP
  31. 1 point
    I’m not the mike you asked but I happened to have an email from the original mike with his sunroof articles that I’ve forwarded to you.
  32. 1 point
    +1 You beat me to it, Mark, That was the only point making me choke.... 😉 Best regards, Steve
  33. 1 point
    ...best thread ever.
  34. 1 point
    You don't have control over something you don't own. Starting a thread doesn't give you ownership of it. Steve owns it, and is free to do with it what he wants. Including leaving it up. t see ya!
  35. 1 point
    Yes same user had a similar approach on early911sregistry.org loooong thread and then he wanted (or even has) remove it
  36. 1 point
  37. 1 point
    Reggie's wife Stephanie took some nice pics of the car after it was all cleaned up. So photo credit goes to Stephanie Stewart. Car came out great. Nice to know it is solid underneath, once again. Hope it lasts another 50 years!
  38. 1 point
    Reggie's used the same DuPont paint that was used in the early '90s. They used the door to create the match, since they could see it from all angles, and get good light on it. The paint match turned out pretty nice, I have to say. They did a great job. And I didn't have to spring for a full repaint. Here's the various coatings, etc, that were used, from an email from Reggie: Behind and in-between metal that will no longer be accessible, we use a weld-through primer, which is basically liquid zinc. On your pinch welds, we use a Wurth body panel adhesive along with the pinch welding technique, so that all of the space between pinch welds is sealed (and technically stronger) - This is likely similar to the glue that holds the roof on your M3. On bare metal that we have access to, we will do a 3-step POR-15 application (3-steps being, clean/degrease/etch, then paint) In cavities that we don’t have access to, we will use that Eastwood internal frame coating. We will apply 3M or Wurth seam sealer around all weld seams and flanged joints. On the texture, we use a Wurth product with a gun that is made by them specifically to shoot this coating. (This is the body shutz he's referring to here.)
  39. 1 point
    It seemed worse in the front vs. the rear on the passenger side.
  40. 1 point
    More pics of the work on the Driver's side of the car. We thought this would be the worst side, but that wasn't entirely accurate. The rockers were pinched-welded as you can see, like the factory. Real goal was preserve the car, not restore it.
  41. 1 point
    Nope. The hose in the grass was removed from my colon.
  42. 1 point
    In the 2002 world, a 2002 is an '' '02". A "deuce" is a '32 Ford hot rod (as in the Beach Boys song, "Little Deuce Coupe." Looks like whatcha got is a very original '71 that hasn't been messed with much--I can see it still has the front spring spacers in place, and can see some of the emission stuff laying atop the block. I'd wager the block is the original one--the engine number will be on a machined pad just above where the starter motor is bolted to the block--and if it matches the VIN, it's the original. Welcome to the '02 fraternity/sorority. If your Dad is engine savvy, him and a machine shop can make pretty short work of an engine rebuild. Don't be shy about asking questions, lotsa knowledge on this board. mike
  43. 1 point
    +1 What Paul said^! But I still don’t know what the deuce is a “deuce”.... 😜 Looks like a “late 1971”, produced April 1971 or later. And is it Polaris-metallic (a.k.a., silver)? Email your car’s VIN to BMW Group Archives (info.grouparchiv@bmwgroup.com) and request their data on the car. It’s free. If the engine number is not the same as the VIN (i.e., engine is not original), send the engine number as well, to see where the engine originated. Regards, Steve
  44. 1 point
    Long time 2002 lurker from Adelaide, South Australia. Thought I'd share a gratuitous glamour shot of my tii!
  45. 1 point
    What brand of tire shine did you use. I have a hose like that with the clamp marks too. I'd like to shine it up for a quick sale.
  46. 1 point
    Trim Ring Mafia! 🤣 ...I resemble that remark Ed Z
  47. 1 point
    Still washing and driving our 02s here in Texas. 😃
  48. 1 point
  49. 1 point
    I have to say that, in disassembling 10+ 2002's, the only bushings I've found that are USUALLY worn out are the front radius rod bushings at the subframe. They tear apart. EVERY OTHER BUSHING in the car is usually intact. Rear subframe bushings sometimes tear, but not all that often. On one car, the rubber had rusted off the sleeve... Trailing arm bushings were once or twice a bit questionable, but almost always they press out and look like new on the inside. Front lower control arm bushings DO fail occasionally- but only maybe on 3 or 4 out of 20+ arms. And these were parts cars picked up for a few hundred bucks at most. Not maintained, cared- for cars. They were beat on until they broke, often spectacularly. So yes, replacing bushings isn't a BAD idea, but before you go hog- wild, make sure other things are ok- like: the center link, the steering box, the ball joints, the engine mounts, the transmission mounts......... What I've found in the last 20 years or so... t
  50. 0 points
    Doing some work on the Orange Car before putting it away for the winter--including changing out the brake hoses that were last replaced 17 years ago. The right front was particularly troublesome, especially since the bracket on the inner fender was moving around with a sickening crunch of rust while I was trying to loosen the fittings. After removing about 5 pounds of undercoating from this 3X5-inch portion of the wheel well, I found that the bracket is only barely connected to the inner fender anymore. I've never heard of this as a particularly bad rust point, and the car overall isn't a rust bucket, but I think the undercoating (applied when the car was new) may have worked against me here by trapping moisture between the bracket and fender; Ziebart gaveth and Ziebart tooketh away. I'd noticed the rust on the engine-compartment side, but didn't realize it was this extensive. Unfortunately, since I can't weld (yet) and just need to get the car functional again, I'm probably going to wind up cutting out the bracket and surrounding rust, grinding the back side of the bracket flat, securing a patch panel inside the engine compartment with pop rivets or bolts, and then bolting the bracket to the patch panel, with liberal amounts of paint and sealer. I hope it'll hold it until I can get a more permanent/proper repair done down the road. Just sharing for our ongoing documentation of places that rust on these things... -Dave
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.