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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/24/2013 in all areas

  1. 31 points
    So....last nights humor about the eyebrows (If you follow me on Facebook, you've seen it - I was bitching about how much I miss my eyebrows.) was a nice way for me to let off stress, since I knew I was finally getting the results of my latest CT scan today (Monday) as well as my chemo session. Thanks to *all* of you that jumped on board. Made my night. Here's where I'm at: The largest lymph tumor that was once the size of a boneless chicken breast (11cm x 6cm, roughly) has shrunken to about the size of a sugar cube or two. Same with the other tumor, nearby. The Doctor is pleased and says this is just about perfect progress and leads to "cancer free" if all continues. I have three more bi-weekly sessions of chemo ahead of me (7 weeks, roughly) and then we'll see how things go. He says that it may never totally disappear - but that's due to the structure of the tumor and is more like harmless scar tissue than anything else. Obviously I'll have to monitor it for years to come. Prognosis is very good. Side effects are fatigue and aches / pains, etc... and I'm still dealing with an unrelated inguinal hernia the size of an avocado. Once the chemo is finished, I'll be under the knife to fix that sucker. I'm thinking that if that bastard gets any bigger, I'll have to name the thing and buy it toys and a litter box or something. For the record; I still eat like a damn horse. Constantly. Need to regain 10-15lbs before I'm happy, but things are OK. I still have some pretty shitty "unable to move off the couch" days...and they'll get a little more frequent, as the chemo builds up, they say....but I'm thankful to everyone in my life (friends, family, my employer and workmates) that has made this journey a little bit better. 2002 people are the best people. See you in Monterey at the end of the month! Thanks for keeping me company on this ride, you guys and gals are truly magnificent humans.
  2. 29 points
    Ok I’ll say it since it hasn’t been said yet.... why come here and ask a bunch of 02 guys to talk shit about a 02 parts supplier?!?! AFTER you stopped working for him? If you have a story to tell then tell it. If not move on. Personally I think showing up with 1 previous post to a forum and asking people to pile on and talk shit about someone without having a point in the conversation (other than to drag someone’s name in the mud) on the internet is bullshit. I’m neither a friend or foe of Ben. Met him twice. Bought something from him once which was a $20 part he had in stock and had no issues. I know others have and I use that specific knowledge to make informed decisions of doing business with him in the future. A former employee wanting to talk dirt is just poor taste. In my opinion. Especially when you start out by saying you parted ways on good terms and are starting your own 02 endeavors. Personally I’ll take that into consideration as well when I make future decisions with my 02 restoration. Rant off.
  3. 20 points
    Well my BMW brothers and sisters, I'm falling down the slippery slope. About two years ago I bought a 1969 BMW 2002 race car that had been raced in the Pennsylvania Hillclimb association, and later extensively SCCA campaigned by Alan Dukes. Alan was a racing friend of my Dads( they had both raced hill climbs in the 1960s) I got to know over the years. I think I was about 10 years old when I first visited his shop in Trucksville Pennsylvania. It was a fascinating place, there was a Lamborghini MIURA there that had caught on fire. Too many leaky Weber carburetors I guess. There was also a silver BMW 2000 TiLux, and a wrecked BMW 2002 lying around outback. The wrecked BMW 2002 had a bent TISA steering wheel on it. I asked for the wheel, and Alan was kind enough to give it to me. That steering wheel restoration was my first BMW project, as I then had my Dad put it on his old car BMW 1800. Later on one of Alan's mechanics rolled the 2000 Tilux end over end--- Dad ended up buying all the running gear and interior. We put it into his old red 1800, which eventually became my first car six years later. Fast forward 40+ years, sentimental fool that I am I decided that the 1969 race car should be resurrected and have the snot driven out of it again. The car had languished, unraced for approximately 20 years. I didn't like it's third funky race car paint job in robins egg blue. I always wanted a Colorado car, so that was the paint scheme I settled on, and decided to do the Black rally hood Alpina style as well. The Girling and Alcon brakes were rebuilt, the vintage fuel cell was redone and the car got new bilsteins. It has a factory close ratio five speed gearbox, TISA three turn steering box, the original 45 Webers and a fresh hot 2 L motor with about a 326° cam, it's exciting just listening to it idle. The car will still need fresh belts and a final sorting, but it is very fast. The car looked so good as I started re-trimming it that I've decided to make it a Alpina tribute car. If I had a trust fund and could find an original Alpina car I guess I would buy one, But I don't. Unfortunately the car does not have pig cheek flares, but the early 70s schnitzer flairs instead. The car came with panasport and vintage BBS wheels. I put new Goodyear racing slicks on the BBS wheels. I have asked my friend and supreme BMW enthusiast Sam McNutt to help with graphics. I think I will limit it to the white hood graphics. The car has a large front spoiler on it from it days as a GT three racer. I may try to find a 1970s style spoiler better suited to that early time. I like the earlier unspoiled appearance of the nose. I put an old flat momo prototype wheel on it and will try to keep things in the spirit of the early 1970s. I still have to find some minor parts for the car, like a passenger side hood adjustment stop, correct small old roundel for the tail, and finish the Windows and some other bits. I plan on running the car at some track days, vintage Grand Prix events and on the Pennsylvania Hillclimb SCCA Race circuit. The car is a tribute not only to Alpina but largely to Alan Dukes and my Dad who nurtured my adolescent Love of now vintage BMWs. Unfortunately I now have to buy a trailer. Thanks Marshall for all your excellent trailer comments recently, the timing was perfect. Also I know at least Harv will like this car a lot. Keep on over steering, best regards Peter
  4. 20 points
    My sister-in-law, Peggy McCarty was called upon by my wife to paint a portrait of Franz for me. Peggy used a photo I had shot along Kansas State Route 22 in June of 2017 as I was bringing the car to Ohio from its former home in Denver. Needless to say, I am more than happy to hang her painting on the wall. I am very pleased with her interpretation. She found Sahara to be a challenging color to match. She was concerned over making it too yellow or too brown. Bravo, Peggy! You might be able to persuade her to paint you one, too...
  5. 19 points
    just got back from a track weekend. (summit point shennendoah circuit) tried putting the camera in different spots. first..on front bumper right in front of left headlight. this is less than a foot from the engine intake... next up was a mount on the rear license plate. this was about 6 inches above the exhaust....crank up the volume! this was the in car view from another session. (friend in right seat...)
  6. 19 points
    At long last my tii refresh is complete! I started the odyssey about a year ago, thinking the top end needed a rebuild at around 74K on the clock since the original rebuild back in 2000... However, it turned out the noise I was hearing was from the lower end after all, and so began the journey to rebuild the lower end after all. I had to source a crank, and my mechanic (Mark Hutto, the best vintage BMW guy in the Denver area) only uses original BMW parts mostly. I learned of a great source for original parts which is Schmiedmann in Denmark. They had original oil pumps for $514 (I looked at my invoices from 2000 and I paid $119 from Maximillian way back then!). More to come, but I wanted to let the community know one thing I learned.... when Mark put the engine back together, he used the freeze plugs I got from Autohaus, and 3 of 4 leaked! So, back to BMW for freeze plugs and to put the engine back together again! I know the replacement parts are much more affordable, but at least in this particular case, aftermarket freeze plugs are a false economy!
  7. 18 points
    Today Ben Nichols and I completed a 3-year restoration (I know that's a controversial term here) with a Euro conversion.* With all the upgrades in suspension and brakes and the addition of E21 sport seats it drives superbly and handles in pleasant (read, extremely level) ways I never expected. Now, some shakedown runs; some tweaking, tightening, and adjusting; and then drive the pee-pee out of it on every twisty road I can find. I sincerely thank Ben for sharing your automotive experience and for teaching me mechanical skills, Wheeler Dealer for being the genesis of "Hey, maybe I can do that, too.", 2002FAQ members for answering questions and for being the ultimate collection of 2002 resources, our many suppliers who continue to stock an armamentarium of parts, Bob Winkleman for performing 7 months of superb body and paint work, and my wife, Lynnie, for saying so many times, "Get the hell out of here and go to the garage." * Yes, I probably missed a few Euro-defining items. And yes, I know the license plate lights are not Euro. I could not bring myself to drill holes into the rechromed rear bumpers. Larry
  8. 18 points
    Tonight the thieves were arrested and the car returned. The culprits go by "Waldo" and "Sunshine". Classic Boulder. The front bumper is mangled, but at least it's back. Never thought it could be so depressing to lose a car, but it's almost like family at this point. Thanks for the help everyone. Now to look into theft-proofing...
  9. 16 points
    After dropping this in today for some odd reason that came to mind + you have to love Will Ferrell (Ricky Bobby). That aside, after a very (very) long time, AlpinA Engine and AlpinA chassis are one again. Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix.....yes I think so....that is the plan anyway. I have to say it is pretty dog gone cool. Very happy.
  10. 15 points
    I had been excited for this weekend ever since last years historics. I knew it was going to be big, but I had no idea it was going to be this big. My weekend began at 5:00 Friday morning, after a week of late nights drilling holes, mounting lights, and mainly scrubbing and vacuuming. My dad and I met up with 3 more 02s and a beautiful /6 cafe racer. We headed down 17 towards Highway 1, with some of our cars adding to the thick haze of fog coming off the ocean. Just before we got off at Hwy 68 we were passed by an e30 and then an e34 M5 Touring, a car I never seen before, I squealed inside a bit. “It’s gonna be a good day” I thought to myself. No one in our group had been to our first stop Legends of the Autobahn before and we got lost, which lead us to seeing a 3.0 CSL batmobile. We finally got to legends and I park my touring with the other 2002s, and right away I’m asked what it is. I went into this weekend thinking e30 M3s, and 3.0s were rare, but by the end of Friday they honestly had become commonplace. Which was fine, Legends offered up plenty of other beautiful cars for me to ogle. Elvis Presley's’ 507, a 700 coupe which had an air cooled motorcycle motor in it, a 1934 309, and my favorites, an e30 touring and an M1. When a 3 cylinder DKW 3=6 started up, it drew a crowd, he man that owned it also has a right hand drive Colorado Touring he brought to the Brisbane 02 show. Down the hill from the main show was the Motorrad and performance section. A few Z1s, quite a few Z8s, and even more M3s. We came across a whole lot of different older Alpinas, pretty sure at least one of every model made. The motorcycles were a sight to see, I believe an r32, BMWs first motorcycle, and a few insanely clean /5 and /6s, including a gold twin turbo, that the owners unfortunately would not start up. Once Legends ended we went to a BBQ to revel for the evening with other BMW enthusiast. A big shout out and thank you to Doug for hosting. Late in the evening we returned to our campsite above turn 10 at Laguna Seca. In the campsite we had an 1800 4 door, an e30 325ix, an e36 M3 LTW, 4 2002s, and 3 Tourings, and a big 2002 FAQ banner on the fence.Needless to say, our site was packed, and we constantly had people stopping and asking us about our cars. I’ve seen posts about how much love there is in the 02 community, and I’ve always seen that in our group. I have witnessed this first hand with building my own car which was a year of non-stop fun and great times, or helping Coastalcrush get his crusty Colorado 1600 on the road before the Brisbane show. Saturday morning our group drove our cars down to the BMW corral and had cars and coffee on the back of Dr Suave! We watched the morning races, my favorite being the 1973 to 1984 FIA, IMSA GT, GTX, AAGT, and GTU cup, just because of the amount of 3.0s and M1s. After that we got ready for the BMW parade lap, where I got to ride in Steve's all stock automatic touring. He showed the three of us all the proper racing lines to take around the track, which was really informative and interesting. When we came back in (after the parade lap) my dad and I spent a while walking around the paddock, where we saw Canepas crew readying his cars. We met an older gentleman with a Model T racecar and watched him oil up and prime the fuel pump on his race car. As we headed towards the main BMW tent I stopped and drooled over the silver M1 procar that had been out just eating up the track. The car had originally raced in Japan, hence the Japanese lettering all over, then was unseen for 25 years, until it was bought and restored to its original condition, and now races around the world in historic races. The BMW tent was impressive. It had all the race cars on the ground, you could get right up and stick your head in them, and then there were a few show cars behind glass barriers. A gorgeous 2002 turbo sat in front of the 2002 Homage car (the homage car brought up a bit of a debate in our group). At the other end sat 2 art cars, an M3 GT2 sat behind the well known number 93 3.0 CSL art car that raced in Le Mans in 1975, you could tell it was a special car with just one glance. By now it was time for the next 1973-84 race, so we went to turn 5 where we could get a good look at the cars as they came into the turn. It was quite the sight to see as Canepa passed people on that bit of straight away like they were standing still, the man knows how to drive. Later we walked through the shop tents and watched people test drive Land Rovers on their test course, some people really beat on them. We headed back up to the campsite, where the lighting got just right for a photoshoot (a true golden hour), which as we all know, 2002s are very photogenic. That night we sat around our fire pit and talked about the day and our cars until it got too cold and foggy to stay up . Sunday morning we packed up our cars with our camping gear, throwing as much as I could on the roof rack of the touring. Again we brought our cars down to the turn 5 corral and talked with passersby for a bit until the 1963-73 FIA race, when we all pressed ourselves to the fence and stared in awe as 3 2002s raced around, one being an Alpina TI. We found out there were spots left for the day’s parade lap, and we quickly registered a few of our cars. This was by far my favorite part of the whole weekend. When they say you can't see a thing coming over the corkscrew, they mean you really can't see anything. But there is nothing like coming over it, downshifting to 2nd, and flooring it out. I had a smile on for the whole lap, but that part made me laugh with pure joy. A track day is now very much in order! With our cars packed, my dad and I started our drive back home, sunburned, tired, and smiling from an event filled weekend.
  11. 14 points
    Another one of our own has become a little more famous. See if we can make him blush @pichos1
  12. 14 points
    Where do I start?! It was another awesome show this year, somehow it always ends up feeling fresh. There were some REALLY nice new cars and it was also great to see old builds continue to evolve. John and Jeff (and all volunteers) did a commendable job, and their hard work meant everything appeared to go without any major hitches. Seeing Matt and Shant (Bimmerheads) along with Rey (Reyn SpeedShop) and Forrest (Koogleworks) out there was refreshing! Although seeing the steadfast Ireland, La Jolla, Odometer Gears, Chris Castro and the other long-time vendors was also nice. For the show-goers, Awesome to see all the guys from San Francisco and San Diego make the trek. There was certainly an influx of significant others and children this year (which was very encouraging to see). I stayed in the booth for nearly the full duration of the show (thank you to all those who stopped by), but had Eric go around with a camera. Eric is eighteen and has never previously done any automotive photography. He is a fellow student, a hard worker, and an enthusiastic car guy. All the following pictures were taken by him. SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (48) Big thank you to Eddie, who was kind enough to let us use his car. SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (8) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (66) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (62) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (54) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (61) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (60) Ever since Ken Blasko brought out his engine stand a couple years ago, there have been a couple more crop up with each passing year. This year this stand cropped up, along with another from Bimmerheads (which is shown further down). SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (59) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (58) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (57) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (55) I’ve missed Ben’s Taiga Truck. Happy to see it this time, it’s been a couple years! SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (53) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (52) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (51) Wouldn’t be a SoCalVintage show without Norm there. SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (50) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (49) Cheeky guys brought in an E36! SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (47) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (46) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (45) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (44) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (43) Finally got to meet Bill Arnold, that was a treat! SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (41) Dave Varco’s S14 02, as pretty as always. SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (39) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (38) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (37) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (36) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (34) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (33) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (31) Charlie’s beautiful Bronzit SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (30) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (29) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (27) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (25) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (22) Market cornered. SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (21) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (20) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (15) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (19) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (18) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (17) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (16) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (13) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (12) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (11) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (10) Tony’s M20 Turbo 02. This car has come such a long way! SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (70) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (7) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (5) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (4) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (3) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (1) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (2) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (71) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (68) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (67) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (65) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (63) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (64) …. And that’s all for this year! Already looking forward to the next one.
  13. 14 points
    It's become a Fall tradition, along with a last drive before the salt, snow and slush season commences. I drove to the nearby former DESC complex in Kettering that's now an office park. The daylight was fading fast, so I needed to hustle.
  14. 14 points
    Whatever business you start and whatever cars you choose to work on, I will not be giving you my business. You did a great job of killing potential customers in 5 sentences!
  15. 14 points
  16. 14 points
    Had some fun with the 2002 and decided to share. The opportunity is pretty rare here for us to have the lake frozen with no snow! Let me know what you guys think! https://youtu.be/CBSRAGWFOdM
  17. 13 points
    Here is the prototype of the customer console my Dad created. I am currently sending the CAD drawings out for the face plate to get laser cut from aluminum. Eventually I plan to make a few of these if I can if anyone is interested in a custom upgraded console.
  18. 13 points
    It's basically an entire e30m3 shoe horned into a 2002, like including the power steering and rack and the AC. M3 brake master, pedals hung from the top. Front subframe with brakes, strut tops relocated back so the castor is correct for the m3 suspension. Rear subframe with suspension and brakes from the m3, including the diff. And so much more. It was featured in the first issue of Bimmer magazine, April '98. Car needed to be saved so I went and got it. My wife will most likely shoot me with one of my own guns... Oh, and those are the plates for it, from CA, BMW M2.
  19. 13 points
    Working Patrol El Mirage 11-11-18
  20. 13 points
    Big milestone today for my 02, as it finally rolled over 100k miles! I nearly forgot about how close it was, but remembered in time to snap a couple pics. Have enough documentation to indicate that the car hasn't rolled over once before too And one pic for good measure parked, dirty and deserving of a bath, but shortly to be squirreled away in the garage before this hurricane rolls in..
  21. 13 points
    Depends on your storage options and your wife. Sent from my STH100-1 using Tapatalk
  22. 13 points
    Car was recovered by local police today, a happy ending.
  23. 13 points
    so we finally got there, its running and riding. it needs the diff oil changing and the tranny oil could do with a refresh, but its running like a beaut thanks to all the help and advice from everyone on the forum. i genuinely couldnt have done this without all your help and insight, its been invaluable. i have a video of it running but it wont let me upload it to the site, i will upload it to youtube and get it linked on this thread asap.
  24. 13 points
    Hi Team, Its been a very happy and exciting weekend for me. This weekend I brought my body shell home. It has taken me 18 months of work to get the body all complete. It was a considerable amount of work for a novice like me but when I look back at the effort I put in, it feels worth it. It is a major milestone for me in my project. Part of me also breathes a sigh of relief knowing that I have managed to get this far. Its been a really steep learning curve for me learning how to weld and grind and deal with parts that don't fit and all sorts of other stuff. Anyway, I just want to thank each and everyone of you all who have helped me with my bodywork. I have been on this forum almost daily looking for parts and advice. I didn't do all the body work myself. There were several aspects that I was unsure of and so I had this old English Gentleman who has been doing this sort of work all his life, help me. I didn't do the final paint preparation and painting and rubbing down etc. That was all body shop. I still have a fair way to go as I put it all back together. Here are some pictures: Sealed all the areas that needed sealing Paint .
  25. 12 points
    Chehalis, Washington. May 18, 2002. I was able to pull this from my VHS and old camera. We were living in Corvallis, Oregon at the time and this was by far the largest number of '02s I had ever seen. Such a great event.The Famous David Lumbra from '2002 Restorations in Eugene, Oregon had two beautiful cars on the lawn. Great memories!! May 18 2002festwest.mp4
  26. 12 points
  27. 12 points
  28. 12 points
    Attended a local car show today. Amongst the 100+ American muscle was Gustav. Ran great in the 104 temp today. With no air, I was the one suffering on the drive home. Love wing windows. They work awesome at 85.
  29. 12 points
    I recently sold my Chevron B16 with the M10 in it and this opened up a slot in my garage. I had been looking for something a little more modern like an ex-DTM E30 M3, but they have gotten crazy expensive. So I looked west and found this: It ran in the JTCC series between 1991 and 1993, finishing runner-up in the championship in 1993 driven by Anthony Reid. The car is coming from Australia and should be here in early February. Here's a little preview of the car from Phillip Island last year:
  30. 12 points
    Papa Z says "Merry Christmas, Y'all" Ed Z
  31. 11 points
    Hello, fellow 2002FAQers! I've been on the FAQ now for 12 yrs and have met a ton of great people and made a lot of lifelong friends. A buddy and I recently started a small business with my illustration work and wanted to post and share with you all. I had the pleasure of meeting a lot of new people at the show in Brisbane and was glad I was able to take part in the raffle by donating a few of our framed prints. The response was great. Thank you for those that entered and supported the event! Please visit our website www.vuvroom.com to check out our illustrations that we offer for sale with FREE shippping within the US. We do offer shipping worldwide! Bellow are several of the BMW 2002's we offer as well as a 3.0 CSL! We also have several other makes of cars, not only BMW's. More Illustrations will be added so be sure to check the website often. You can also follow us on Instagram @vuvroom to stay up to date on what we offer! Note - The ghosted Vüvroom logo placed on the art is only a watermark for online purposes.
  32. 11 points
    Stumbled across this old picture and thought I would share. Enjoy, Derek
  33. 11 points
    Oh, dear. Search this board for many threads. t
  34. 11 points
    The end of the madness is this: just drive the damn thing. Let the speculators and other assorted douche nozzles do their thing while you have fun wrenching on and driving the everloving piss out of your car. A fun car is worth exactly nothing to me if it's sitting in the garage; it's worth a hell of a lot more than the book value out on the road.
  35. 11 points
    I've heard this whining before in the Porsche world. Wahhhh I thought I was the only one who loved 02's? Wahhhh other people are starting to like them too! Wahhhh parts are so expensive now. Wahhhh people are buying them all up now and driving up the prices. Wahhhh they're only old guys who don't even work on their cars and get their hands dirty. wahhhh wahhh hey you kids, get off my lawn! You should be encouraging people to love these cars, not complaining that they do.
  36. 11 points
    Haha, yeah …..no. I'm going full hog on a billet injection mold for these, so figure a million-billion of them will be produced. Up front cost is high, but price per piece isn't bad. Going out on a limb in hoping more than a couple people want them.
  37. 11 points
    I’ve been hard at work on a 1968 barn find that scared many any from bidding. looked like rust ? Nope just red Georgia clay . looked like mold ? Nope just dust
  38. 11 points
    This is when a simple fresh coat of paint turns into an over the top restoration. I’ll still drive it!
  39. 10 points
    Just returned from a 3,670 mile round trip to Eureka Springs, Arkansas. The 19th Mid-America '02 Fest was the largest one ever! 74 2002s, if you count the one on the trailer, an NK Sedan, a Bavaria and an i8 also attended. Doug Riparetti, from Seaside CA, drove 1935 miles and I presented him with the prestigious Iron Butt Award on Saturday night. He travelled 90 miles farther than my 1845 miles. The event weather was perfect, cool and sunny. Friday we had a delightful drive to Rogers for lunch and back to the hotel, about 85 miles total. Terry & Deb Sayther sponsored the Saturday BBQ Dinner. Saturday was show, workshop & how to day. Ben Thongsai & Keith Kreeger were able to get Noel's Golf Tii to run much better. Keith taught Larry gray how to use a timing light on his Inka Tii. Many engines were fussed over, none more than Travis Brint's 2002, going through 3 radiators, he received the Hard Luck Award...their 2002 was eventually flat bedded home as they were headed home. Saturday was also the group shot with and without people. Sunday everyone headed home. The caravan I was with did numerous back roads to get to I-57 and spent the night in Mt. Vernon Illinois. Then as we headed North people peeled off until I was solo outside of Dayton Ohio. Spent the night in Clearfield PA. Tuesday I stopped by VSR for an oil change and a few other repair/replacement items. I arrived home at 6pm.
  40. 10 points
    my carpet sets fit both e10 and 114 ,1967 - 1976 BMWs...
  41. 10 points
    A couple pics from today.
  42. 10 points
    While there is quite a lot of information on EFI conversions for our cars (some of which I will directly reference here), my goal with this article is to help anyone embarking on this type of project with a modular approach, so that one may go at his own pace, and deviate for personal preferences at any point along the way. My own project has been done on a 1975 base 2002 using Megasquirt 2, Ford EDIS, and B&G firmware, so this will be the basis referenced here. All standard disclaimers apply, please be safe about working on your car, and I'm not responsible if you screw something up, but I hope this helps many people interested in pursuing various EFI conversions for their 2002! Useful 2002 Megasquirt conversion blogs: http://www.02again.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/Megasquirt_presentation.pdf http://www.zeebuck.com/bimmers/tech/Megasquirt/preparation.html http://www.finkbuilt.com/blog/category/automotive/megasquirt-efi/ http://customers.hbci.com/~tskwiot/2002.html Intro - Some things to consider If you're just contemplating this undertaking and wondering if it's a good project for you and your car, here's my brief personal advice on the subject. But obviously do your research and decide if it's a project you think you'd like doing. Reasons EFI is a good fit for your 2002: - You like tinkering with your car on a regular basis - You like to drive your car regularly, and thus value better driveabiltiy and reliability - You have and are irked by issues with chokes, cold starts, and warmup Reasons EFI is NOT a good fit for your 2002: - You value originality (your car might end up as much E30 as 2002 by the end). - Your main goal is performance (there are easier, cheaper, and quicker paths to pure horsepower). - You prefer to have someone else work on your car (this can make the tuning process slow, cumbersome, and frustrating). - You want it done quickly or are worried about scope creep. (You WILL find other side projects you'll want to do along the way; the project WILL grow and take more time and money as it goes along. This isn't necessarily a bad thing, but you need to be prepared for all of the 'well, while I'm in here' offshoots). First things first. . . You may not yet have decided on all of the details for a project with such a large scope yet, but that's actually OK, because there are some basic upgrades that make sense to take care of first, and are basically necessary no matter what direction you end up going with your car. We're going to start with a few upgrades to the coolant and electrical system. These items can, and I would say even should, be made to 2002s regardless of EFI, but are certainly required for EFI, and therefore make a good starting point. Section I - Coolant System Preparation We'll begin with the cooling system, for which two specific upgrades are needed: First is an E30 coolant divider with three sensor ports. Try to pick up a used one here on the FAQ, Ebay, or a junkyard, and ideally get one that has all of the E30 sensors already in it. You'll replace one with the stock 2002 sender to keep your dash gauge working, use the stock E30 sensor to provide coolant temperature data to Megasquirt, and leave the third in as a plug or use it for other needs (such as a switch to drive an electric cooling fan). The additional coolant sensor is critical for fuel injection, as it is the main input that adjust how much fuel is injected during a cold start and then during warmup until the car is up to operating temperature. Conveniently, it can also be used as the input to have Megasquirt drive an electric radiator fan directly, which is really nice. Here's what this coolant divider looks like in my car, with the 2002 sender up front, the temperature sensor for Megasquirt behind it, and the switch/plug on the left: Next up, while the coolant system is open, will be the coolant bypass line and hose, also from an E30. You'll need this for pretty much anything other than the stock coolant manifold, be it side draft carbs, ITBs, or the 318i intake. You can salvage one from an E30, or buy a brand new one (or as part of a complete set with all new coolant hoses) from Ireland engineering here: http://www.iemotorsport.com/bmw/2002-cooling/M10sddrfthrdwr.html And here's what it looks like installed on my car, sans intake manifold: On last thing that is worth mentioning here. While you have the coolant drained for performing these upgrades, it makes this a convenient time to also take the radiator out. I'll leave scope-creep items like radiator and fan upgrades for other articles/blogs, but the reason I mention it here is that IF you are planning to use a Ford EDIS ignition setup (which is my recommendation, but see the later ignition section for more details), you will need the radiator out so that you can remove the crank pulley and replace it with one with a trigger wheel. The easiest route that I would recommend is to just purchase a brand new pulley with a trigger wheel and also the sensor mount from Tom at 02again (http://www.02again.com/?page_id=358). Section II - Electrical System Preparation So, with the main items for the coolant system in process and/or already taken care of, we will next move to the primary electrical system upgrades needed for EFI. The first involves relocating the battery from the original location in the engine bay to *somewhere* else in the car. The most popular new homes are either in the trunk or under the rear seat, but you can put it pretty much wherever you want to, as long as you get it the heck out of the way up front. I didn't like the idea of losing trunk space and drilling into the rust-prone rear shock towers, so I chose to follow Zeebucks lead and installed two Hawker Odyssey batteries under the back seat, and will link to his complete instructions for this here: http://www.zeebuck.com/bimmers/tech/batteryrelocation/underseatbattery.html The only deviations I made from his method were to route the cable through the interior and through the drivers side firewall instead of underneath the car, and I then brought the positive terminal into a sealed junction box on the inside of the front drivers side fender just underneath the relay bracket. Here's a great picture I nabbed while I happened to have the engine out: I'm pretty sure I picked this up at a local Lowes or Home Depot, but I haven't been able to find it again. So at least here's a link to something similar that I did find on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Position-Terminals-Electric-Junction/dp/B012NJUUG4 I further followed in Zeebuck's footsteps and installed the larger 80-amp alternator from a 318i, in order to have enough overhead to power all of the additional electronic components for EFI and engine management systems I'd be adding. Again, his guide for this is already complete and excellent, so I'll point you to that write up here: http://www.zeebuck.com/bimmers/tech/318alternator/318ialternator.html Lastly, I added a small additional blade fuse box (picked it up either from Autozone or Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/OLS-6-Way-Blade-Indicator-Protection/dp/B00QMTAZ1W) up in the front of the car to provide the fused terminals for the forthcoming additional electronics. The +12V supply for this fuse box is provided from a relay which is switched by the ignition. The stock 2002 ignition switch actually powers a LOT of things directly and needs to handle fairly high current. This isn't exactly desirable, and you certainly don't want to any more load to this poor 40 year old switch, so please heed this advice and use a relay for this job, and do NOT power any additional electronics directly from the ignition switch. On square-light vehicles, you'll be looking for a solid green wire from the ignition switch to run the coil (terminal 85 or 86) on the relay. You can find this wire several places; it supplies fuses #4 and #12, powers the stock ignition coil, and runs to the lights and turn signals. Something else I should add here is that the stock wiring for the headlights is not that great, as the headlight switch must switch the full load for the headlights, some 20 amps! Although there are relays in the circuit, they aren't used as relays should be. As such, I took the opportunity to rewire the entire relay area and put in a new relay box to house everything. I mention this not because it's necessary for EFI, but because it's what you'll see in all of my pictures and wiring diagrams, so you need to know what you're looking at. Here's my full wiring schematic and final product, for those interested: Relay_wiring.pdf One final note in this section, and that's regarding electrical connections. You can continue to use plain old spade terminals for just about everything, but as this project involves a lot more wires and connections than the original system, I found it easier to buy a kit full of Weatherpack connectors to make multi-wired connections. My new fuse box for example uses two 5-wire connectors (white in the photo) to hook up the 10 wires coming from the relays to the wiring harness. (I think I ran the ground wire individually). If you want to take a similar route, here's a good Weatherpack starter kit on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/JEGS-Performance-Products-Weatherpack-Starter/dp/B0081ZY4EY Section III - Wideband O2 sensor This is the final stand-alone part that is key to running EFI, but also equally useful for tuning a carburetor-equipped car. There are two basic types of O2 sensors, narrow- and wide-band. Narrow band sensors check if there is any un-burnt oxygen in the exhaust stream and report that back as either a rich or lean condition. Wideband sensors on the other hand are a little more sophisticated and report back just how much rich or lean the engine is running. The target here is an air/fuel ratio in the range of 12~15 (depending on exact conditions) which represents the point at which both all fuel and all oxygen are burned. For either a carb or EFI, this feedback lets you see under which operating conditions you should change the amount of fuel flow to your engine to try to maintain this perfect balance all the time. With EFI, it's as easy as adjusting the numbers in the tuning software, and for a carb it means trying out some different jets. It can also be used in EFI for closed-loop feedback, where the engine management system will automatically make fueling adjustments on the fly based on what the oxygen sensor is seeing. I installed the fairly common LC-1 wideband kit from Innovate: http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lc1.php There are many others, some probably better and some worse, but I chose this one as it was not hideously expensive and because it provides two analog outputs, one of which goes to Megasquirt and the other which can drive the gauge in the cockpit. The important points to remember for installing an Oxygen sensor are: - Mount the O2 sensor in the upper half of the exhaust pipe, at a point AFTER the exhaust streams from all 4 cylinders have come together. Here's what mine looks like right by the front of the transmission: - Make sure to program BOTH of the two analog outputs for 0-5V. As received one of the two outputs is programmed to function like a narrow band instead of a wideband. - I mounted the control unit on the passenger side of the engine bay just in front of the firewall. You can see it in this picture zip tied to the lip just above the distributor area: Section IV - Ignition (NOTE: If you are only interested in ignition control and want to keep your car carbureted, there is a system called Megajolt which is similar to Megasquirt but only for ignition control without EFI: https://www.autosportlabs.com/product/megajolte/) Ok, now we have reached the first major decision point in the project. It's time to decide what type of ignition system you'd like to run. I'm going to assume that you want SOME type of electronically controlled ignition, as this project would pretty much be a waste otherwise. Here are the three main options that I know of to choose from: 1.) 123/TUNE - https://www.123ignitionshop.com/gb/tune-bmw/106-123tune4rvbmw.html This option has the advantage of being stand-alone, you could install this straight away on a stock car and be done if you wanted and not bother with EFI. It also very stock looking, and works wonderfully with a Bosch blue coil. If you looking for something quick and turnkey, this is what I would probably recommend. However, if you plan to continue on with a Megasquirt EFI installation, I would instead recommend going with one of the next next two options. 1.) Megasquirt direct coil control - This is basically the same as the 123Tune setup, with the only differences being you will instead use your stock distributor (it's only purpose here is to direct the spark to the correct plug), and you will program the timing through Megasquirt, which will then directly control the firing of the ignition coil. NOTE: you will need to make sure your Megasquirt control board is built properly to support this. Here's the link to the direct coil control section in the MegaManual: http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/vb921.htm 3.) Ford EDIS - Don't let the Ford brand name dissuade you, this is a truly elegant and awesome ignition system! It is a distributor-less system that works in a wasted-spark configuration, so the only inputs it needs are crank position and RPM, and it can be easily driven by Megasquirt with whatever advance curve you desire. If you're going EFI, and especially if you're using Megasquirt, this is the way to go. The parts are readily available, usually quite cheap, and it integrates perfectly in with MS. I will detail out its parts and installation below. NOTE: you will need to make sure your Megasquirt control board is built properly to support this. Here's the link to the EDIS section of the MegaManual: http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/EDIS.htm 4.) Coil on Plug (COP) - You may by all means pursue and COP system and drive it with Megasquirt, and I think several 2002 owners have done so. But my advice on this one is frankly don't bother and just stick with the Ford EDIS. I won't dissuade you if COP is what you want, but I feel there's basically no advantages for using it in a 2002, and here are my reasons. COP is mainstream today because it offers several advantages on MODERN cars. These include things like no HT wires (which interfere with AM radio reception), longer dwell times to make a more powerful spark, and the ability to control the ignition on each individual cylinder, including things like multiple ignition events. But in order to control just one cylinder at a time, we need to know which one of the two paired cylinders (2 or 3 and 1 or 4) is on it's compression stroke vs. exhaust stroke. This generally requires a camshaft position sensor (as far as I know impossible to install on a 2002), or requires the signal from the distributor (to identify which cylinder should be firing), but to me that's just hokey to still have the distributor as part of a distributor-less ignition setup. The way around this, and how the Ford EDIS works, is to utilize what is known as a wasted-spark configuration, where the spark is fired for both paired cylinders (based just on crankshaft position), and the spark for the cylinder on its exhaust stroke is therefore 'wasted.' COP can be set up in a wasted spark configuration also, but now the advantages of longer dwell time and individual cylinder control are negated, and it's really no different than the Ford EDIS setup, just more complicated. Unless of course, you strongly value AM radio. Here's a link to the best thread I've come across on this topic, should you decide you'd like to research the topic further: https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/180502-individual-coil-on-plug-cop-option/ Installing MS-controlled EDIS in the 2002 If you'll take my recommendation, this is the way to go, and here's how you accomplish this: 1.) Read and understand the EDIS section in the MegaManual: http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/EDIS.htm 2.) Trigger wheel - As I mentioned in the coolant section, the easiest way to do this is to buy the correct crank pulley with the trigger wheel already on it from 02Again (http://www.02again.com/?page_id=358). Sadly, this option was not available to me when I started my project, so instead I had a local shop turn a collar for me to mount a scavenged Ford trigger wheel to a stock E30 crank pulley. But I can tell you the next time that I have the radiator out of the car for some reason, I'm going seize the opportunity to upgrade to the 02again pulley/wheel! Anyway, here's how mine looks like currently: If you look closely in the picture, you can see a small white arrow on the wheel where one tooth is missing, and this is lined up with the #1 cylinder TDC mark on the crankshaft. This missing tooth tells the EDIS brain where TDC is, and then it 'counts' each tooth as it moves past the sensor so that it always knows what position the engine is in, and can decide when to fire the spark accordingly. The sensor should be mounted so that is lined up with the 5th tooth AHEAD of the gap when the missing tooth is at TDC. There's a 'trigger offset' parameter in the Megasquirt software to adjust this if it's not perfect, but it's wise to still try to get it pretty close, so that the EDIS will function correctly in 'limp home' mode. This is a built-in backup where, if for some reason there is no signal from Megasquirt as to what timing is desired, the EDIS will default to simply firing consistently at a static 10deg BTDC. This means the car will still be able to run on just EDIS alone, albeit not very well at higher revs and at a loss of power, but it's great for testing to make sure everything is working and just in case something should go wrong. NOTE: If you have or desire air conditioning in your car, that complicates matters as the compressor pulley is right were we want to mount the trigger wheel. I think this is still possible, but will likely require a different trigger wheel and some extra ingenuity and custom work on your part. 3.) Crank position sensor - Should be pretty obvious by this point, this is the VR sensor that senses the teeth on the crank trigger wheel and sends the signal back to the EDIS brain. There's a link to the right sensor on the above mentioned 02again website, and the right connector I know can be sourced here: https://www.autosportlabs.com/product/ford-crank-position-sensor-pigtail/ The only two things to remember here are to make sure that the sensor wires are shielded to prevent electrical noise in the signal, and to set gap between the sensor and the wheel teeth to about 1mm. 4.) EDIS module, coil pack, and wires - Honestly your best bet for the module these days is probably Ebay, although if you have a local salvage yard that you like to frequent, look for an early 90s Ford Escort/Mercury Tracer to liberate these parts from. You'll want the EDIS-4 module, connector, and coil pack connector (don't bother with the donor coil pack or plug wires themselves, see below). Should look like this: The original Ford coil pack and wires are ludicrously difficult to mount, but fortunately more user-friendly brand new options are available for cheap, such as this coil pack from Amazon for just $20: https://www.amazon.com/Ignition-Mazda-Mercury-Compatible-C1341/dp/B00FRLQKUQ To install this coil pack, I *think* I purchased this wonderful mount from 02Again, but I don't see it listed on the website, so you might need to inquire. It mounts in the stock distributor location, nicely plugging the hole for the now unnecessary distributor while maintaining a stock-ish look: For plug wires, the *RIGHT* set to look for is a 2001-2003 Ford Taurus 3.0L V6 with 24V/DOHC. This will fit both that coil and the 2002 cylinder head. Do NOT get wires from the very similar 3.0L SOHC V6 from the same vintage Tauruses!!! Here's what I bought: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/TAY-82633 Here's how my wires look installed, note the use of the E30 exhaust manifold gasket with the extra exhaust heat shield: 5.) Wiring - This is pretty straight forward, just follow the diagram below. EDIS pins 1 and 3 to Megasquirt pins 24 and 36, VR sensor goes to EDIS pins 5 and 6, both paired shields go to pin 7, pin 8 gets +12V (from the new fuse panel), 9 is ground, and 10 and 12 go to the coils: NOTE: This is important to keep your tachometer working! The Megamanual presents a schematic using some diodes to tie the output of the two coils together to drive the tachometer, but I worked for months on this and could never get it to work properly. I think the flyback voltage that the stock tach wants to see is higher than what makes it through the diodes. What DID work for me in the end is actually much simpler. EDIS pin #11 (CTO) is the tach signal output. This with a big NON-POLARIZED capacitor (I used 0.068uF) in the line directly drives my tachometer perfectly throughout the whole rev range! In this picture, you can see where I mounted the EDIS module to the firewall and you can even see the orange capacitor dangling down just below the module on the yellow wire, before it plugs into the original factory tachometer wiring: Section V - Megasquirt controller This will be a pretty short section, as you only have two major decisions to make here: Which version of Megasquirt and do you want to buy: a turnkey pre-assembled module or the kit and build/solder your own? I built my own; mostly for the fun of it, but it was also a bit cheaper. But if you don't like soldering or are in a hurry, it's probably worth the extra $200 to buy the pre-assembled version. There may be other sources, but the main one that I know of and would recommend for all Megasquirt kits is www.DIYautotune.com. Here's a short list of the options and my thoughts on each of them: Megasquirt I - This is the cheapest option at only around $200 for the kit, and it does in fact have all the capability necessary to run a naturally aspirated 2002 withEFI and spark via EDIS, making this a perfectly acceptable route for a budget build. I would however in general recommend stepping up to MS2 for most people, primarily because the MS2 community is larger and therefore it's easier to find answers than for MS1. I also think the MS1 processor is now obsolete and no longer supported. MS1 DIY kit: https://www.diyautotune.com/product/megasquirt-i-programmable-efi-system-pcb3-0-kit-w-black-case/ MS1 assembled: https://www.diyautotune.com/product/megasquirt-i-programmable-efi-system-pcb3-0-assembled-unit/ Megasquirt II - This was my pick because it's far cheaper than MS3, has all the capability you could ever need for a 2002 (including forced induction, etc), and a nice large support community. As far as assembly time, I think it took me about a month working about an hour or so at a time several evenings a week. It's definitely time consuming, but an absolutely tremendous learning experience for both the principals of EFI/engine control as well as electronics in general, which is what made it worth it for me. I feel that the knowledge gained here makes the tuning process vastly easier to tackle when that time comes. MS2 DIY kit: https://www.diyautotune.com/product/megasquirt-ii-programmable-efi-system-pcb3-0-kit-w-black-case/ MS2 assembled: https://www.diyautotune.com/product/megasquirt-ii-ems-system-smd-pcb3-57-assembled-ecu Microsquirt - This is basically the same thing as a pre-assembled MS2 but in a smaller package and slightly cheaper. I think the one drawback is that it needs and additional module to support idle control with a stepper motor. Since I've already had the fun and learning of building one MS2 setup, I would give Microsquirt some serious consideration if I were ever to do a second car. Microsquirt: https://www.diyautotune.com/product/microsquirt-engine-management-system-w-8-39-wiring-harness/ Megasquirt III - While the capabilities of MS3 are truly awesome, I think it's really hard to justify the additional cost for use on an M10 engine. Features like 8-cylinder sequential injector control, 4-bank wankel control, water injection, nitrous, CAN-bus support, etc. are just, well, unnecessary for a 2002. But if for some reason you are interested in going this route, here's a link. MS3 assembled: https://www.diyautotune.com/product/megasquirt-iii-ems-system-v3-57-assembled-unit-w-black-case/ The last main thing you'll need is the MS wiring harness, which I STRONGLY recommend you just buy instead of make. For $80, you get the right connector complete with 10 feet of high quality, different colored and labeled wires. You just can't beat that! https://www.diyautotune.com/product/10-39-megasquirt-wiring-harness-ms1-ms2-ms3-ready/ Once you've sourced or built your Megasquirt board, don't forget that before sealing it up in it's enclosure that you'll need to load some firmware on it. There are two main types of firmware: 1.) 'Stock' firmware (use MegaTune software for tuning) 2.) MS/Extra firmware (use TunerStudio software for tuning) I used the stock code and MegaTune and now that I'm used to it and have the car running great I'm not going to bother changing, but for new builds I would recommend using the MS/Extra code and TunerStudio. It recent years it seems to have 'won out' in the mainstream and for all intents and purposes, it's just better. Instructions and source for stock firmware: http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/install.htm Instructions and source for MS/Extra firmware: https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/hardware/diypnp/documentation/diypnp-v1-5/loading-firmware/ Optionally, you might find it useful to also pick up the Stimulator. This neat little doodad runs on a 9V battery and plugs into the Megasquirt controller and simulates all of the various engine systems (e.g. RPM, MAP, temperature, AFR, etc.) This allows you to fully bench-test and program your Megasquirt so that you know it basically works BEFORE you start hacking into your actual car. Below is a picture of my just-completed MS2 on it's first test run using the Stimulator. Boy, I can still remember bouncing off the walls with happiness that evening! https://www.diyautotune.com/product/megasquirt-stimulator-v2-2-assembled-unit/ Section VI - EFI Hardware Here's where things start to get fun, installing the major components needed for EFI, but this is also sort of a point of no return, so make sure you have your Megasquirt controller working, all of the parts ready, and enough down time lined up before you pull the trigger. We'll start with the list of parts/hardware needed, and then go into the details of each: 1.) Intake manifolds 2.) Throttle bodies 3.) Individual throttle bodies (ITBs) 4.) Fuel rail & injectors 5.) Fuel pump 6.) Additional sensors 7.) Idle control 8.) Megasquirt controller and wiring harness 9.) Miscellaneous NOTE: Plan out and source everything before installing anything, and then start with the wiring (step 8.) first! 1a.) Plenum intake manifolds - For a more tii look, I think it's possible to use an E21 320i intake manifold or even a 2002tii manifold, but I'm not going to recommend that as I have no idea how to get the right fuel rail or injectors for it, but I think it has been done before. For 95% of us, the E30 318i intake is the way to go. It's basically plug-n-play, and is fantastically engineered by those Bavarians for off-the-chart fantastic mid-range performance. I'd guess less than $50 on ebay or from junkyards. Just one personal request, please take the time to clean up and paint your manifold. It's easy to do before installing it, and makes it everything look so much better! 2.) Throttle body - If you pick up a manifold with the 318i throttle body already on it, then great! For a stock to mildly-modified engine this will work just fine. Megamanual calculator says this should be fine up to 116 horsepower. If you plan for your engine to go above that however, you'll probably want a slightly larger one from either the 325e or 325is. Here's a link to a detailed run down of each and, as always, there's a wonderful adapter plate available at 02again.com! http://mybmw1600-2.blogspot.com/2011/08/throttle-bodies.html http://www.02again.com/?page_id=30 While you're shopping on 02again there are some other accessories that you'll probably want to order as well, including the IAC adapter (for idle control), the throttle position sensor mount, and again though this isn't on the website I think I sourced this nice set of aluminum plugs from there for plugging up all of the various unused ports on the TB. One note, I did need to backfill some of the openings with epoxy, as the plugged holes would whistle something fierce at certain throttle positions! 3.) - ITBs - For those that desire more top end horsepower than mid-rage torque, there are several ITB options for EFI out there. Having previously loved dual DCOEs, I've often toyed with this idea, but for me I think it will need to be done on a different car. There simply isn't enough room in the 2002 engine bay to get long enough runners on ITBs to match the mid-range performance of the impeccably designed 318 manifold, so in my opinion ITBs are a better match for an engine build that's designed for a >4000 RPM power band. But if you have high compression pistons (10.0:1 or greater), a rather aggressive cam (292 or greater), and some porting, this will likely be the route you want to pursue. I know of two vendors (formerly TWM, now Borla, and Dbilas) that market EFI throttle bodies with mounting geometry that matches DCOE carburetors, so if you already happen to have a manifold for dual sidedrafts, this becomes rather straight forward. The TWM/Borla parts are found here: http://www.borlainduction.com/2900-series.html and are probably the way to go if you already have a sidedraft manifold. If you don't already have a manifold, then I would probably go for the Dbilas kit, as it comes with everything including the throttle bodies: http://www.dbilas-shop.com/Products/Throttle-body-kit/Street/BMW/M10/Mutli-throttle-intake-system-for-1602-1802-2002-316-318-518-520-E21-E30-1-5-2-0-8V-M10::10351.html Lastly, I have also toyed with the idea of running just one of these throttle bodies on the Lynx single-sidedraft manifold that I have. I've done some calculations and think it should work, but would take some pretty specific selection of injectors and fuel control setup. If you want to experiment with this, contact me directly for the specifics as I don't want to bore everybody with the math here, but in case this peaks your interest, here's the link to the manifold: https://www.racetep.com/manufacturer/carbs-and-injection/weber/conversion-kits/bmw-2002-320i-m10-engine-single-sidedraft-dcoe-conversion-kits.html I won't go into much more detail on ITBs here as there is already a good writeup on this from Johnup, so see here for further reading on the subject: https://www.bmw2002faq.com/articles.html/technical-articles/engine-and-drivetrain/2002-carby-to-itb-megasquirt-injection-r19/ 4a.) Fuel Rails - Unfortunately I can't offer much help with fuel rails for E21 or tii manifold setups, but the others are easy; the ITB vendors all supply their own rails and the 318 intake uses the stock 318 rail including fuel pressure regulator. Again you can clean up and use the one from a donor vehicle or buy new parts. Here are links to the right parts from ECS, but I think local dealer pricing is also decent on these parts, with the added bonus of offering a CCA discount: Fuel rail: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/fuel-rail/13531707731/ Fuel pressure regulator: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-bosch-parts/30-bar-fuel-pressure-regulator/13531722040~bos/ Injector retainer clips: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/fuel-injector-clip-priced-each/13531274729/ (DON'T FORGET THESE CLIPS, otherwise the rail can pop off of the injectors, dumping high pressure fuel into you engine bay, ask me how I know!) 4b.) Injectors - You'll need to estimate your engines peak horsepower for this, but once you do that the rest is easy. The important thing to remember is to get the SMALLEST injector that you can which still flows enough fuel at peak horsepower. The reason not to oversize much on the injectors is because then the pulse width will get very very short at idle, making it both difficult to tune and not as smooth of an idle as is possible with the smaller sized injectors. Here are my guidelines: Up to 130HP get 19# Bosch yellow tops: https://www.fiveomotorsport.com/bosch-yellow-top-19lb-fuel-injector 130-150HP get 21# Bosch pink tops: https://www.fiveomotorsport.com/bmw-0280150440-pink-top-13641703819 150-165HP get 24# Bosch blue tops: https://www.fiveomotorsport.com/24lb-bosch-fuel-injector-0280150947-blue-top Here's the correct EV1 connector for all of the above Bosch injectors: https://www.diyautotune.com/product/fuel-injector-pigtails-bosch-ev1/ And lastly here's the fuel injector in the MegaManual for more information: http://www.megamanual.com/v22manual/minj.htm#fb 5.) Fuel pump - We need to pause here and again give thanks to the old generation of Bavarian engineers, who developed stuff that just plain worked and then didn't feel the need to mess with things every few months just for the hell of it! It is because of this that we have the very great fortune of having a high pressure fuel injection pump available that drops straight into the 2002 fuel tank with no modifications whatsoever! Obviously the E30 is once again our benefactor, and ebay and junkyards are the best budget options. The pump is available new and not too expensive from off-brand manufactures, but the sending unit for the fuel gauge (which ALSO works perfectly with the 2002 gauge, as hard as that is to believe) I only see listed as 'genuine BMW' for lots o' $$$. Here's the link to ECS with the various options: https://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E30-318is-M42_1.8L/Search/SiteSearch/Fuel_Pump/ Note: there are two versions of the hanger, one with a return fitting and one without, so check to see if your tank has a return fitting on the tank itself. If it does, here's the version with only the supply fitting: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-vemo-parts/fuel-pump-assembly/16141184022~vmo/ You will need to install another relay to power the fuel pump (power for it can come from that nice new fuse panel), and this relay's negative coil will be controlled by Megasquirt. I did something pretty clever with the wiring here: since my rear window defrost wires were all rotted and non-functioning, I used those existing defrost wires to run back to the fuel pump instead of trying to run a new set of wires back through the whole length of the car. All installed, mine looks like this: Other than a short priming pulse at start-up, MS will not run the pump unless there is an RPM signal >0. While this is moderately safe, additional oil pressure and/or roll-over sensors can be added as further safety measures to cut off the fuel pump in the event of an accident. And as always, here's the link the fueling section of the Megamanual: http://www.useasydocs.com/details/fuelsys.htm IMPORTANT: You MUST run new fuel line rated for high pressure fuel injection for the supply line from the tank to the fuel rail! If you have a late-model Sqaurie, you can cheat a little by swapping things and using the steel RETURN line on the driver's side of the car for the supply, and then running the low pressure return through the plastic line the runs through the passenger side interior. Be sure to run all new fuel injection rated rubber lines everywhere on the high pressure supply though, and certainly do NOT use the stock plastic line for the supply! 6.) Sensors - EFI requires a few extra sensors than what were normally included on cars in the 70s, so here's the list of additional input sensors that you'll need to plan on adding: a.) Coolant temperature - See previous coolant section, use the E30 temp sensor in the coolant divider neck, and program the temperature curve in Megasquirt. b.) Throttle position sensor - Use the TPS sensor from a late 80s Nissan 300Z with the adapter mount from 02again.com c.) Oxygen sensor - See above, use and Innovate LC-1 or similar heated wideband O2 sensor with 0-5v analog output. d.) Inlet air temperature sensor - Use this open element GM sensor somewhere in the intake track before the throttle body and program temperature curve in Megasquirt: https://www.diyautotune.com/product/gm-open-element-iat-sensor-with-pigtail/ 7.) Idle control - The two basic options for idle control are a fast idle solenoid and a stepper motor idle air control valve. If you've got the 318i intake route, your job is again ridiculously easy as you can just get the adapter block from 02again.com (I told you at the beginning this was a great place for this project!) and the proper 90s Jeep stepper motor. Wire it up according the the Megasquirt wiring diagram for a stepper IAC and here are the 02again installation instructions: http://www.02again.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/IAC-Control-Block-Installation-Instructions.pdf If you are not using the 318i manifold, then a fast idle solenoid is likely easier to install as it can be plumbed in with hoses, but this pretty much exhausts my knowledge of fast idle solenoids here, and I also unfortunately have no idea how to approach idle control with ITBs. On a side note, if you use the stepper motor, Megasquirt allows you to configure your unused fast idle output for other purposes; I have mine set up to control my electric cooling fan! Megamanual link to idle control: http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/IAC.htm 8.) Megasquirt controller and wiring harness - Maybe I should have put this further up, because these are really the FIRST pieces of hardware that you'll want to install, on the other hand you need to already have planned out all of the above hardware and options before installing anything. Anyway, once you know what hardware you're going to use, how everything will be plumbed, where all of the sensors will go, and so on; you should then start laying out the wiring harness. It's easiest to do this with all of the old hardware out of the way so you can really work at tucking the wires back out of the way to keep things clean looking. I recommend laying out all of the wires individually, and then wrapping them/sheathing them in conduit in sections. Obviously if you haven't already ridded your car of all of the obscene 70's emissions junk, then do this concurrently, as reuse those same wiring clips for the new stuff. The Megasquirt controller needs to be mounted in the car's interior (it's not meant to survive in the engine bay environment), so this means making one big hole somewhere in the fire wall big enough to pull the whole wiring harness through. The best spot I found for this was on the passenger's side high up in the foot well, just underneath where the brake lines come across (obviously be careful not to drill through your brake lines!) I also used a small bit of coolant hose as a grommet: NOTE: Since you'll likely have purchased a wiring harness with the Megasquirt DB39 connector already on one end, this means you'll need to feed the whole length of the harness through the firewall from inside to outside, and this takes some patience! Besides the harness, you also need to run a vacuum line through the firewall to get Megasquirt the MAP signal. I was able to do this right along side the plastic fuel return line, thereby saving drilling an additional hole. Once the whole harness is through the firewall, you can start routing all of the individual wires. Once you have everything laid out, the next step is to install all of the proper connectors on the ends, and then finally wrap and tuck all of the various branches. Here's how my finished wiring harness looked laid out in the engine bay before installing any of the hardware: It's trickier than it sounds to layout wiring cleanly, so take your time with this process, make good soldered connections, cover them in heat-shrink tubing, and wrap/tape up conduit joints and ends, and you'll end up very pleased with how much cleaner the whole engine bay looks in the end! Here's a copy of the general Megasquirt wiring diagram (including EDIS) that's a good one to work from: As I mentioned the MS controller box itself needs to be mounted in the interior of the car. Many people choose to mount it inside the glove box which works just great, but I didn't want to give up that much real estate in my glove box so instead I chose to mount mine on top of the transmission tunnel behind the center console where, as long as the car has no A/C, affords a good bit of space. I did later end up also installing an amp for my built-in Android tablet here and an RS232-to-Bluetooth adapter for wireless connectivity to Megasquirt (https://www.efianalytics.com/products/class1Bluetooth.html), at which point I moved the MS module up on to the face of the heater core box (having already had the heater box out once, that's not a job I plan to EVER do again on this car!) 9.) Miscellaneous - Probably the two most difficult parts of this installation, at least for me, were the intake plumbing to the throttle body and the throttle linkage. The stock E30 intake boots/etc. obviously will fit, but I didn't have this so I managed to cobble together a decent setup using the generi
  43. 10 points
    Just a quick update. We should be shipping these at the end of this week. I'll post again once they are on the way. Thanks everyone for your enthusiasm and support.
  44. 10 points
    Because there seems to be a lot of discussion here about merit without a lot of discussion about how an LSD actually works or what these inserts do... Firstly, what does a clutch-type LSD do? In (very) brief, it uses ramped clutch packs to apply pressure to your carrier side gears (the ones splined to your output flanges and thusly bolted to your axles), effectively "clutching" your axles to drive at the same rate. The more your axles spin at different rates, the more the clutches engage to grip both axles together and force them to spin at the same rate... The more one wheel spins, the more power is applied to the non-spinning wheel. How do these inserts differ from a stock-style clutch plate LSD? Position of the clutches! A stock LSD carrier is built so that the clutch plates are outside the side gears, applying friction between outer sections of the lsd carrier... which is a big, heavy machined part with large friction surfaces that is engineered to take the force of the clutches pushing against them. The side gears/output flanges/axles are splined into these clutch packs so they have the clutch force applied to them while the load of the clutches binding is taken up by the carrier, as it is designed to do: Now, how do these LSD inserts work? Well, they put the clutch packs inside the side gears, applying the clutch force against the faces of the differential side gears. These gears have a much smaller friction contact surface, and are relatively small-and-not beefy, and not at all engineered for pressure to be applied to them in such a manner. More to the point, there is not really any "set of clutches" with the insert, so any "drag" is created between the face of the gear and the metal of the insert, thus scraping the two metal surfaces against each other. CAVEAT: This particular LSD manufacturer seems to have improved on this slightly, by adding a single "friction shim" between the metal insert halves and the gear face. Nonetheless, this is still not a real clutch pack set, designed for wear as the friction/metal surfaces scrub against each other... Your gears are not designed to do this, and you will wear away the "hardened" metal in the contact area (or the face of your side gears). Shear stress is also applied to the center pin connecting your spider gears (which is actually what applies real ramped pressure to the "clutch" faces against the side gears as the carrier loads, not those little springs). The center pin in an open differential is not designed for this load. To quote Jack's Transmissions, a reputable manufacturer of FWD racing transmissions: "It is common for people to want to install a cheap LSD in their FWD trans for better traction. You get what you pay for, the cheap insert type LSDs are terrible, don’t work, and have a very high failure rate. The way the inserts work is they jam two steel plates in between the front diff spider gears. The plates are spring loaded and they put pressure up against the gears. Good idea, but the problem with this is you have a metal plate pushing against metal gears. Over time the gears will dig into the plate which will leave metal shavings in your trans. When they wear in far enough either the gears break (if you’re lucky) or the front diff pin can wear and break away from the diff housing with no where to go but through your trans case." CONCLUSION: Well, we do have one major advantage over the FWD guys who have typically tried these "LSD inserts" thus far... Our differentials are isolated from the rest of the drivetrain! So when your differential inevitably ends up with metal shavings through the gears and/or broken side gear chunks and a center pin floating around in there, you'll only grenade a cheap open differential, not your whole FWD transaxle. The engineer can see where these inserts go wrong; they are creating stresses the open diff carrier was not designed to carry, and apply those stresses to parts never designed to be stressed in that manner. They do so with parts designed to create metal-on-metal wear in a system full of tight clearances and bearings that do not like extra metal bits floating around. BUT... the realist can see that OEM clutch pack LSD's are getting expensive as hell (I remember regularly buying good used LSD's for $100-$150), and open differentials are cheap as hell, and we have no definitive test of just how quickly these inserts will wear out diff parts and break. The FWD world is full of horror stories, but also full of reports of people beating on these things with decent results. SO... Just be knowledgeable about what you are getting into. We as humans do shit all the time that we know is bad for us, but acceptably so. If you choose to install a cheap insert rather than a "real" LSD, you probably know in the back of your mind that it is not a real proper solution, but you also are probably doing so because you are not planning on racing, autocrossing, or otherwise beating the crap out of your car with that diff insert. You are probably planning on installing it yourself, and thus you are only risking a small amount of money and your own time if/when the thing grenades. But if you are planning to buy one and pay somebody like me to install it... Well, for the money it would take to pay for your diff to be removed, disassembled, LSD bought and installed, and diff reinstalled (and then the whole process repeated again later when the differential insert breaks off some side gear teeth and it all implodes), well, you can probably afford to suck it up and get a "real" (OEM or Quaife) LSD. Sorry for the long rant. Don't let me talk you out of trying the insert (don't let me talk you out of a cheap eBay turbo either!), but please go into it understanding what the hell it is actually doing and what you are risking. In this case, maybe the risk is moderate enough (and self-contained enough) to be worthwhile. Or maybe it isn't. But it is important to discuss these things in more depth than just "hey look it's cheap on eBay".
  45. 10 points
    The "big brakes" upgrade is probably the most-frequently asked question when it comes to upgrading an '02 for high-performance driving. In fact "big brakes" is really a misnomer because what we are really after here isn't necessarily a larger diameter brake rotor (although these upgrades below do give you a marginally larger rotor), but in fact rotors that are vented for better cooling. Braking systems are basically heatsinks that suck kinetic energy out of a bunch of flying metal, plastic and glass, and convert it into heat: depositing it in the brake rotor itself. Then the rotor is supposed to shed it into the rushing, cool night air... Vented brakes simply allow this process to take place with more efficiency, in addition to having a higher basic mass which will by itself soak up more heat without failing. Which option you choose to get your vented brakes will depend mostly on where you are starting. For tii owners, the best option is to use the brakes from the e12 early 5-series sedan or e24 6-series coupe. They will fit on the stock tii spindles and require no other modification of the car. For non-tii '02s, really there are two major options. One is to go with all-BMW parts and buy a set of tii front struts. Then use the parts from an e12 sedan or e24 coupe as stated above. The other option is to just use the Girling Vented calipers from a mid-80s Volvo 240, and the rest of the parts from the e21 320i. This will save you some money if you are starting with a "regular" '02, and provide braking on par with the pure-BMW solution above. Please note that Rob Torres, Jr. of 2002 Haus recommends the use of tii struts with their the larger spindles if you are running large-diameter (15"+) wheels, or else you will chew up wheel bearings at a rapid rate! Thanks to Rob for the tip! Other options involve using racing brakes from people like Wildwood and the like. If you are considering operating at this level, the best advice is to find a vendor who will work with you to get the product installed on your car. Some vendors also sell other higher-end braking solutions such as lightweight aluminum calipers, and these kits will come with everything you need to adapt them to your car. Because we are only worried about the DIY-type stuff at this point, here are the details for low-buck, big-bang brake upgrades: Parts Required for tii upgrade: New 1977 e21 Vented rotors Used e21 hubs up through 1979 (junkyard) New or Used e12/e24 up through 1981 calipers (I'd just buy already-rebuilt ones but you could get good used ones or rebuildable ones from a junkyard for less $$) New brake hoses (unless yours are less than five years old, you might as well refresh/upgrade while its apart. Braided stainless ones will give you the best performance.) New wheel bearings Wheel bearing grease New performance brake pads Two pints of new brake fluid (might want to get a pressure bleeder too) If you are upgrading to the "pure-BMW" solution from a standard '02, then you will obviously also need a set of tii struts in addition to the above. Parts Required for non-tii upgrade: New 1977(only) e21 Vented rotors Used 1981-83 e21 Hubs (just get these from a junkyard: dont buy new like I did... ;p) New or Used Girling Vented Calipers for a mid-80s Volvo 240 with VENTED brakes. (There are rumors of ATE Vented calipers also being available but the Girlings are far more available and that is probably for a good reason.) New brake hoses (unless yours are less than five years old, you might as well refresh/upgrade while its apart. Braided stainless ones will give you the best performance.) New wheel bearings Wheel bearing grease New performance brake pads Two pints of new brake fluid (might want to get a pressure bleeder too) Four 1" standard galvanized or stainless steel (why not, right?) washers Be aware that certain 13" wheels will NOT fit over these upgraded calipers. In some circumstances, you can do a little grinding on the outside of the caliper to get them to fit, but you will need to start with a wheel with a good deal of offset amd should be as wide open inside as possible. Project: SAFELY raise the car and put it on jackstands. All the standard disclaimers apply. I don't want to get the FAQ sued because some e46 clownie wandered in here and decided to try this. (;p) Basically, make sure the wheels are chocked behind them, its in gear, the e-brake is on (and working!), and your teeth are gritted. Put a floor jack under the middle of the front subframe with a block of wood between jack and subframe to protect and spread load. Raise the car and then put jackstands under the frame rails that are welded to the front floors. Again use some wood to buffer the stands and spread the load some. Remove the road wheels, then remove the old brake lines and calipers. Theres not much to this, just some angry grunting with the aforementioned gritted teeth and possibly some flagrant cussing. Its also messy work, and you will need to drain the brake fluid, so get a pan or bucket too. Once you have the caliper removed, and the old brake lines (this part can be a nightmare in itself! Get out the vice grips and rhyming dictionary!), remove the cotter pin and big wheel nut, and then the old rotors and hubs (as a unit). Again, this is just dirty, messy but straightforward work. Next is to clean the spindles, and inspect them for wear. IF you have a non-tii car and find that your spindles are shot/worn/etc., THIS might be a good time to think about upgrading to a tii strut-based setup (you didnt already order all the Volvo parts, did you!? - just something to think about before indeed placing that order.) If you have used hubs, you have to remove the old seals and bearings and clean them up. I bought new hubs like an idiot, which I immediately got filthy just by handling them. But, CLEAN them up so that you can put in the new clean bearings and grease. Pack the new bearings with grease. If you've never done this before, the `word "pack" pretty much covers it. Do not OVERpack them because this will interfere with torquing down the main wheel nut. You will want to retighten the main wheel nut in 100 miles anyway, and you can put a wrench on the main wheel nut to give it a good squish, then back off and tighten the nut as described a little more below. Install the new bearings into the hub and install the new seal with a flat piece of wood. As I recall, the seals go in flush with the edge of the hub, but I'm not totally sure about that. Then install the hub onto the spindle. Put the outer bearing, washer, and nut on, then spin the hub and finger tighten the big wheel nut until the hub stops. Then back it off a smidge and then put in the cotter pin. Make sure there is veryvery little to no play in the assembly when you rack it up and down, and that it also spins freely when you spin it with your hand. Put the new rotor on, and then slide the new (rebuilt, etc.) caliper over it with the new brake pads installed. Make sure that the bleeder nipples are facing up, otherwise the system will be impossible to bleed correctly. Next install your new hoses. Some of you Volvo upgraders might want to think about using a tii or for tii people, an e28 master cylinder at this point too. The theory is that a larger set of calipers will require more volume of fluid to move the pistons a given distance. If you have a larger master, this will supply that additional flow. In my case, I used a 528 master cylinder. Im not exactly sure what the deal is with the rear proportioning systems in these various MCs, but since I am going to use rear discs eventually, I havent let it keep me up nights yet. Most people, however, simply choose to use the rear brakes from a 320i. Once you have the rear brakes sorted, then bleed the brakes. Start from the passenger rear, drivers rear, then pass front, then drivers front. Make sure you flush all the old fluid out of the system. Some like to use a different-colored fluid each time they change it so they can tell when the old stuff is gone and the new stuff has taken its place. IF you do this, just make sure the two fluids are compatible chemically or else you can have a bunch of new problems on your hands. Once you've got it all back together, it usually takes about 500 miles for the brakes to fully "seat," so don't go out and "test" them right away (oh, officer! see, i just got this new carburetor and i was just trying to test it..... ;p). Other than that, enjoy the new stopping power!
  46. 10 points
    To all my 02er friends, My wife and I would like to thank every one of you for your support through a very trying year. Having been through this 15 years ago, I'm reluctant to say "we beat it", but we did get through it and I am very healthy right now, and should be for quite some time. Here's to 2018 and all my 02er friends far and near! Scott Sislane
  47. 10 points
    A few months ago, I wrote an article about repairing the heater valve bracket. You can see that article by clicking the link here. I really thank all of you for reading and all the responses received from the 2002 community. I had a tremendous request on the parts that I designed. Therefore, I decided to make some improvements to the bracket as well as additional parts that make rebuilding the heater box easier. I have gathered and made some special components/parts for those who want to rebuild the box themselves, starting with a new design heater valve bracket. I was fortunate enough to find a heater box top with an intact bracket. I was able to follow the shape of the original bracket, and because of that, the new design will be almost identical to the original bracket. The kit will also available with the other following items: • Heater valve lever with pinch bolt • Rubber grommets and delrin bushings (custom made) • Pre-cut foam kit for the flaps, heater core and perimeter box seals • Heater motor with a new fan blade Those who are interested in the parts can contact me at [email protected] This is the picture for the foam & grommet kit. On the left are foam strips for the perimeter box seal (furthest left), and then the heater core seal. In the upper middle area is the foam for the defroster and heater air flaps. Underneath that are two big rings for the heater core outlet. Below that are the flap grommets (the 7 small circular ones). Beneath that is the four relay shaft delrin bushings for the defroster and heater flaps. Beneath that is four spring clips that also go onto the flap shafts. To the right of that is the foam for the fresh air flap. To the furthest right is the foam for the outer box. Version 2 of my heater bracket reinforcement! I’ve updated it so that it looks very similar to the original bracket that was created from the factory. This time, the bracket is made in aluminum, making it lighter than the previous version. If your heater fan motor is seized or making noise, you don’t need to worry. I will show you how to get a replacement parts or you can get it from me. The heater fan motor is still available from Bosch, part # 0 130 007 002. The fan motor comes with a 6 mm shaft, or just slightly under ¼ “. If you buy a ready made fan blade with a ¼“ bore, it will be loose. The only option is to buy a plastic fan blade from Grainger, part # 5JLL6. It should be 5-9/16” Dia, CCW, with a 3/16” bore. This is the closest fan blade to the original aluminum fan blade, except that it is made of plastic and is lighter. Enlarge the bore with a 15/64” drill bit, but make sure that you drill it straight and on center, otherwise it will end up having a wobble (slight wobble is acceptable). I made a special jig to perform this job, since I do quite a bit of these repairs. Once the fan blade is done, press fit it onto the shaft with the clip facing away from the motor, and if you want, you can drop a little glue to make it more secure. You don’t need to balance it, since the blade is so light. It should provide you with plenty of CFM - I think it blows slightly stronger than the original motor. See the pictures below. These images show how I align the fan so that I can drill the fan perfectly centered. The grommets for the heater core outlets are very difficult to acquire. Even though the part is still being made by BMW, they are not available unless someone has old stock (NOS). Most of these grommets are dry, brittle, and torn after 30+ years. You can use sealer or putty to keep it together and seal the box from leaking out air, but it won’t look pretty. I found a replacement heater core outlet grommets (¾”x1/4”x1-⅝”) that were very similar/ acceptable to the original ones, and with slight modification, it would look like almost an oem part (see pictures). The rest of the parts are straightforward, except for the fan blade which was a little bit tricky to do. If you look at the pictures below. I put together a kit for what is necessary to rebuilt the heater box. This is the same kit I use to rebuild heater boxes. These are the grommets for the heater core outlets. The white area is where it is going to be trimmed - Without trimming this, the grommet won’t fit. It would need to be cut ⅜“ from the inside diameter. What you should get is this You should fit it onto the box with the flat side facing to the outside of the box, as shown. But from here, there is still some further modifications that need to be done. Unless you cut out a groove for the pipes, you will have a hard time putting the top cover onto the assembly. This is why I modified the grommets, grind the inside diameter following the outlet heater core pipes by using a die grinder or round file. It should be approximately ground at 30º - 45º. Both the top and bottom of the grommet will need to be cut, but on the opposite sides! This will help the top cover fit easier. After you grind out the groove, it should look like this: On the left side is the outer side of the box; the right image shows what it looks like on the inside. Note that both cuts are opposite from each other! This should make it a lot easier to install the top. Trust me on this. I hope this articles will help whoever wants to do their own Heater Box rebuild. If you need help, just email me on the address above. Keep yourself warm during winter season. Happy Motoring!
  48. 9 points
    On the way to the “Great Car Show” (creative name) in Kansas City this morning. Many other FAQ members in this shot but I don’t know their usernames.
  49. 9 points
    When I walk into my garage and see that iconic styling that I fell in love with as a teenager in the 1970s, I smile. See the thumbs up from drivers and pedestrians as I drive through town? Smile again. Hear that amazing sound the M10 puts out past 4K RPM? Bigger smile. Toss it into a curve and power into the next? Big, stupid grin! Gone up in value? Cool. But not the reason I own my 02.
  50. 9 points
    Going down the road with a Turbo tribute build on my 76 Polaris. Have gotten all the rust issues resolved and now working on the body and suspension. Engine is being rebuilt and will have a 318is EFI controlled by a Megasquirt and eventually a Turbo. While I was able to get most of the body flares and dams from IE and scored a NOS OEM rubber spoiler from Rogerstii, the one remaining part I was not able to find was the Turbo gauge pod and boost gauge. After searching exhaustively, I decided just to build one. Armed with all the pictures I could find I drew up some CAD drawings and set out on my 3D printer. Needless to say it took a number of attempts as the pod had so many angles and curves that I needed to get right. I didn't have a real one to copy, but from the angles of the pictures I had, it was as close as I could get. The Kienzel clock was the standard tii clock and are still available used, but at a cost. But this still left me with finding or making the Boost gauge. I searched at naesium with no luck in finding a used one or one that VDO made as an aftermarket gauge. The problem was the size, the BMW version was 60mm to match the clock but most all of the VDO gauges were in the 52mm size. But expanding my search I found a Volvo 240 turbo gauge that had the same mechanism I was looking for, but it was too a 52mm gauge made by VDO. And most of the 60mm gauges VDO makes are for either tractors or boats. I found a new VDO 32V Voltmeter for 19 bucks on eBay and gave it a shot. Both gauges were the type 2 which means that the bezels are crimped on at the factory and cannot be removed without damage. So, I Dremeled the casings in half on both gauges to salvage the bezel and glass off the 60mm gauge and the mechanism and rear casing of the boost gauge. In order to mate the two halves, I 3D printed a sleeve which slipped into the bezel side and then the mechanism can slip into the back. The Volvo needle was orange so it needed to be painted white. I had to draw out the face of the gauge in Photoshop which I copied from pictures and then printed it out on Matt vinyl with adhesive backing. Overall the pod and gauge came out well and looks pretty OEM. Not bad for just going on some pictures lol. I'm sure not many will go to the lengths I have, but it was a raining weekend and I had nothing better to do. Hopefully this may give some of you some ideas. The fun just never stops with these cars :D BTW the last picture is one I got off the web that I copied from.

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