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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/24/2013 in all areas

  1. 31 points
    So....last nights humor about the eyebrows (If you follow me on Facebook, you've seen it - I was bitching about how much I miss my eyebrows.) was a nice way for me to let off stress, since I knew I was finally getting the results of my latest CT scan today (Monday) as well as my chemo session. Thanks to *all* of you that jumped on board. Made my night. Here's where I'm at: The largest lymph tumor that was once the size of a boneless chicken breast (11cm x 6cm, roughly) has shrunken to about the size of a sugar cube or two. Same with the other tumor, nearby. The Doctor is pleased and says this is just about perfect progress and leads to "cancer free" if all continues. I have three more bi-weekly sessions of chemo ahead of me (7 weeks, roughly) and then we'll see how things go. He says that it may never totally disappear - but that's due to the structure of the tumor and is more like harmless scar tissue than anything else. Obviously I'll have to monitor it for years to come. Prognosis is very good. Side effects are fatigue and aches / pains, etc... and I'm still dealing with an unrelated inguinal hernia the size of an avocado. Once the chemo is finished, I'll be under the knife to fix that sucker. I'm thinking that if that bastard gets any bigger, I'll have to name the thing and buy it toys and a litter box or something. For the record; I still eat like a damn horse. Constantly. Need to regain 10-15lbs before I'm happy, but things are OK. I still have some pretty shitty "unable to move off the couch" days...and they'll get a little more frequent, as the chemo builds up, they say....but I'm thankful to everyone in my life (friends, family, my employer and workmates) that has made this journey a little bit better. 2002 people are the best people. See you in Monterey at the end of the month! Thanks for keeping me company on this ride, you guys and gals are truly magnificent humans.
  2. 27 points
    This repair manual is intended to ensure that the maintenance and repair work required for BMW cars is done in the correct manner. Therefore this manual should be used by inspectors and fitters as it helps to supplement the practical and theoretical knowledge they have acquired at our service training school The relevant specifications are always provided at the beginning of each main group. Introduction Axle - Front Axle - Rear Automatic Transmission Body Equipment Body Work Brakes Clutch Electrical System - General Engine - Electrical Engine and Mechanical Equipment (Miscellaneous) Exhaust Foot Pedals Fuel System Fuel Tank Gear Selection Gearbox (Manual) Heat and Air Conditioning Instrument Panel Radiator Radio and Antenna Seats Steering Whee Alignment Wheels and Tires Wiring Diagrams Wiring Diagram (Oversized)
  3. 20 points
    Well my BMW brothers and sisters, I'm falling down the slippery slope. About two years ago I bought a 1969 BMW 2002 race car that had been raced in the Pennsylvania Hillclimb association, and later extensively SCCA campaigned by Alan Dukes. Alan was a racing friend of my Dads( they had both raced hill climbs in the 1960s) I got to know over the years. I think I was about 10 years old when I first visited his shop in Trucksville Pennsylvania. It was a fascinating place, there was a Lamborghini MIURA there that had caught on fire. Too many leaky Weber carburetors I guess. There was also a silver BMW 2000 TiLux, and a wrecked BMW 2002 lying around outback. The wrecked BMW 2002 had a bent TISA steering wheel on it. I asked for the wheel, and Alan was kind enough to give it to me. That steering wheel restoration was my first BMW project, as I then had my Dad put it on his old car BMW 1800. Later on one of Alan's mechanics rolled the 2000 Tilux end over end--- Dad ended up buying all the running gear and interior. We put it into his old red 1800, which eventually became my first car six years later. Fast forward 40+ years, sentimental fool that I am I decided that the 1969 race car should be resurrected and have the snot driven out of it again. The car had languished, unraced for approximately 20 years. I didn't like it's third funky race car paint job in robins egg blue. I always wanted a Colorado car, so that was the paint scheme I settled on, and decided to do the Black rally hood Alpina style as well. The Girling and Alcon brakes were rebuilt, the vintage fuel cell was redone and the car got new bilsteins. It has a factory close ratio five speed gearbox, TISA three turn steering box, the original 45 Webers and a fresh hot 2 L motor with about a 326° cam, it's exciting just listening to it idle. The car will still need fresh belts and a final sorting, but it is very fast. The car looked so good as I started re-trimming it that I've decided to make it a Alpina tribute car. If I had a trust fund and could find an original Alpina car I guess I would buy one, But I don't. Unfortunately the car does not have pig cheek flares, but the early 70s schnitzer flairs instead. The car came with panasport and vintage BBS wheels. I put new Goodyear racing slicks on the BBS wheels. I have asked my friend and supreme BMW enthusiast Sam McNutt to help with graphics. I think I will limit it to the white hood graphics. The car has a large front spoiler on it from it days as a GT three racer. I may try to find a 1970s style spoiler better suited to that early time. I like the earlier unspoiled appearance of the nose. I put an old flat momo prototype wheel on it and will try to keep things in the spirit of the early 1970s. I still have to find some minor parts for the car, like a passenger side hood adjustment stop, correct small old roundel for the tail, and finish the Windows and some other bits. I plan on running the car at some track days, vintage Grand Prix events and on the Pennsylvania Hillclimb SCCA Race circuit. The car is a tribute not only to Alpina but largely to Alan Dukes and my Dad who nurtured my adolescent Love of now vintage BMWs. Unfortunately I now have to buy a trailer. Thanks Marshall for all your excellent trailer comments recently, the timing was perfect. Also I know at least Harv will like this car a lot. Keep on over steering, best regards Peter
  4. 20 points
    My sister-in-law, Peggy McCarty was called upon by my wife to paint a portrait of Franz for me. Peggy used a photo I had shot along Kansas State Route 22 in June of 2017 as I was bringing the car to Ohio from its former home in Denver. Needless to say, I am more than happy to hang her painting on the wall. I am very pleased with her interpretation. She found Sahara to be a challenging color to match. She was concerned over making it too yellow or too brown. Bravo, Peggy! You might be able to persuade her to paint you one, too...
  5. 19 points
    just got back from a track weekend. (summit point shennendoah circuit) tried putting the camera in different spots. first..on front bumper right in front of left headlight. this is less than a foot from the engine intake... next up was a mount on the rear license plate. this was about 6 inches above the exhaust....crank up the volume! this was the in car view from another session. (friend in right seat...)
  6. 19 points
    At long last my tii refresh is complete! I started the odyssey about a year ago, thinking the top end needed a rebuild at around 74K on the clock since the original rebuild back in 2000... However, it turned out the noise I was hearing was from the lower end after all, and so began the journey to rebuild the lower end after all. I had to source a crank, and my mechanic (Mark Hutto, the best vintage BMW guy in the Denver area) only uses original BMW parts mostly. I learned of a great source for original parts which is Schmiedmann in Denmark. They had original oil pumps for $514 (I looked at my invoices from 2000 and I paid $119 from Maximillian way back then!). More to come, but I wanted to let the community know one thing I learned.... when Mark put the engine back together, he used the freeze plugs I got from Autohaus, and 3 of 4 leaked! So, back to BMW for freeze plugs and to put the engine back together again! I know the replacement parts are much more affordable, but at least in this particular case, aftermarket freeze plugs are a false economy!
  7. 18 points
    Tonight the thieves were arrested and the car returned. The culprits go by "Waldo" and "Sunshine". Classic Boulder. The front bumper is mangled, but at least it's back. Never thought it could be so depressing to lose a car, but it's almost like family at this point. Thanks for the help everyone. Now to look into theft-proofing...
  8. 16 points
    After dropping this in today for some odd reason that came to mind + you have to love Will Ferrell (Ricky Bobby). That aside, after a very (very) long time, AlpinA Engine and AlpinA chassis are one again. Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix.....yes I think so....that is the plan anyway. I have to say it is pretty dog gone cool. Very happy.
  9. 15 points
    I had been excited for this weekend ever since last years historics. I knew it was going to be big, but I had no idea it was going to be this big. My weekend began at 5:00 Friday morning, after a week of late nights drilling holes, mounting lights, and mainly scrubbing and vacuuming. My dad and I met up with 3 more 02s and a beautiful /6 cafe racer. We headed down 17 towards Highway 1, with some of our cars adding to the thick haze of fog coming off the ocean. Just before we got off at Hwy 68 we were passed by an e30 and then an e34 M5 Touring, a car I never seen before, I squealed inside a bit. “It’s gonna be a good day” I thought to myself. No one in our group had been to our first stop Legends of the Autobahn before and we got lost, which lead us to seeing a 3.0 CSL batmobile. We finally got to legends and I park my touring with the other 2002s, and right away I’m asked what it is. I went into this weekend thinking e30 M3s, and 3.0s were rare, but by the end of Friday they honestly had become commonplace. Which was fine, Legends offered up plenty of other beautiful cars for me to ogle. Elvis Presley's’ 507, a 700 coupe which had an air cooled motorcycle motor in it, a 1934 309, and my favorites, an e30 touring and an M1. When a 3 cylinder DKW 3=6 started up, it drew a crowd, he man that owned it also has a right hand drive Colorado Touring he brought to the Brisbane 02 show. Down the hill from the main show was the Motorrad and performance section. A few Z1s, quite a few Z8s, and even more M3s. We came across a whole lot of different older Alpinas, pretty sure at least one of every model made. The motorcycles were a sight to see, I believe an r32, BMWs first motorcycle, and a few insanely clean /5 and /6s, including a gold twin turbo, that the owners unfortunately would not start up. Once Legends ended we went to a BBQ to revel for the evening with other BMW enthusiast. A big shout out and thank you to Doug for hosting. Late in the evening we returned to our campsite above turn 10 at Laguna Seca. In the campsite we had an 1800 4 door, an e30 325ix, an e36 M3 LTW, 4 2002s, and 3 Tourings, and a big 2002 FAQ banner on the fence.Needless to say, our site was packed, and we constantly had people stopping and asking us about our cars. I’ve seen posts about how much love there is in the 02 community, and I’ve always seen that in our group. I have witnessed this first hand with building my own car which was a year of non-stop fun and great times, or helping Coastalcrush get his crusty Colorado 1600 on the road before the Brisbane show. Saturday morning our group drove our cars down to the BMW corral and had cars and coffee on the back of Dr Suave! We watched the morning races, my favorite being the 1973 to 1984 FIA, IMSA GT, GTX, AAGT, and GTU cup, just because of the amount of 3.0s and M1s. After that we got ready for the BMW parade lap, where I got to ride in Steve's all stock automatic touring. He showed the three of us all the proper racing lines to take around the track, which was really informative and interesting. When we came back in (after the parade lap) my dad and I spent a while walking around the paddock, where we saw Canepas crew readying his cars. We met an older gentleman with a Model T racecar and watched him oil up and prime the fuel pump on his race car. As we headed towards the main BMW tent I stopped and drooled over the silver M1 procar that had been out just eating up the track. The car had originally raced in Japan, hence the Japanese lettering all over, then was unseen for 25 years, until it was bought and restored to its original condition, and now races around the world in historic races. The BMW tent was impressive. It had all the race cars on the ground, you could get right up and stick your head in them, and then there were a few show cars behind glass barriers. A gorgeous 2002 turbo sat in front of the 2002 Homage car (the homage car brought up a bit of a debate in our group). At the other end sat 2 art cars, an M3 GT2 sat behind the well known number 93 3.0 CSL art car that raced in Le Mans in 1975, you could tell it was a special car with just one glance. By now it was time for the next 1973-84 race, so we went to turn 5 where we could get a good look at the cars as they came into the turn. It was quite the sight to see as Canepa passed people on that bit of straight away like they were standing still, the man knows how to drive. Later we walked through the shop tents and watched people test drive Land Rovers on their test course, some people really beat on them. We headed back up to the campsite, where the lighting got just right for a photoshoot (a true golden hour), which as we all know, 2002s are very photogenic. That night we sat around our fire pit and talked about the day and our cars until it got too cold and foggy to stay up . Sunday morning we packed up our cars with our camping gear, throwing as much as I could on the roof rack of the touring. Again we brought our cars down to the turn 5 corral and talked with passersby for a bit until the 1963-73 FIA race, when we all pressed ourselves to the fence and stared in awe as 3 2002s raced around, one being an Alpina TI. We found out there were spots left for the day’s parade lap, and we quickly registered a few of our cars. This was by far my favorite part of the whole weekend. When they say you can't see a thing coming over the corkscrew, they mean you really can't see anything. But there is nothing like coming over it, downshifting to 2nd, and flooring it out. I had a smile on for the whole lap, but that part made me laugh with pure joy. A track day is now very much in order! With our cars packed, my dad and I started our drive back home, sunburned, tired, and smiling from an event filled weekend.
  10. 14 points
    Another one of our own has become a little more famous. See if we can make him blush @pichos1
  11. 14 points
    Where do I start?! It was another awesome show this year, somehow it always ends up feeling fresh. There were some REALLY nice new cars and it was also great to see old builds continue to evolve. John and Jeff (and all volunteers) did a commendable job, and their hard work meant everything appeared to go without any major hitches. Seeing Matt and Shant (Bimmerheads) along with Rey (Reyn SpeedShop) and Forrest (Koogleworks) out there was refreshing! Although seeing the steadfast Ireland, La Jolla, Odometer Gears, Chris Castro and the other long-time vendors was also nice. For the show-goers, Awesome to see all the guys from San Francisco and San Diego make the trek. There was certainly an influx of significant others and children this year (which was very encouraging to see). I stayed in the booth for nearly the full duration of the show (thank you to all those who stopped by), but had Eric go around with a camera. Eric is eighteen and has never previously done any automotive photography. He is a fellow student, a hard worker, and an enthusiastic car guy. All the following pictures were taken by him. SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (48) Big thank you to Eddie, who was kind enough to let us use his car. SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (8) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (66) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (62) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (54) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (61) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (60) Ever since Ken Blasko brought out his engine stand a couple years ago, there have been a couple more crop up with each passing year. This year this stand cropped up, along with another from Bimmerheads (which is shown further down). SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (59) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (58) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (57) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (55) I’ve missed Ben’s Taiga Truck. Happy to see it this time, it’s been a couple years! SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (53) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (52) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (51) Wouldn’t be a SoCalVintage show without Norm there. SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (50) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (49) Cheeky guys brought in an E36! SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (47) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (46) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (45) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (44) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (43) Finally got to meet Bill Arnold, that was a treat! SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (41) Dave Varco’s S14 02, as pretty as always. SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (39) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (38) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (37) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (36) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (34) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (33) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (31) Charlie’s beautiful Bronzit SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (30) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (29) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (27) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (25) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (22) Market cornered. SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (21) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (20) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (15) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (19) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (18) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (17) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (16) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (13) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (12) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (11) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (10) Tony’s M20 Turbo 02. This car has come such a long way! SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (70) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (7) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (5) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (4) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (3) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (1) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (2) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (71) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (68) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (67) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (65) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (63) SoCalVintageBMWShow2018_ADAMSautosport_ (64) …. And that’s all for this year! Already looking forward to the next one.
  12. 14 points
    It's become a Fall tradition, along with a last drive before the salt, snow and slush season commences. I drove to the nearby former DESC complex in Kettering that's now an office park. The daylight was fading fast, so I needed to hustle.
  13. 14 points
    I've searched around and haven't seen a thread dedicated to the initial steps of resurrecting a 2002 that has been sitting/abandoned/undriven/unstarted for many years. (if there is such a thread, please link it here). There are the 100 tips which are helpful, but somewhat dated https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/41562-light-reading-a-few-tips-myths-lies-truths-and-other-c/#comment-668762 For years we have seen new members appear with a car they've just bought and no experience on how to or where to start. Most times, these threads receive lots of good advice on how the newbie should proceed, but then those threads become lost and we have to start the whole conversation over again. There are basic steps a new owner can proceed with to insure his new project doesn't bog down and I'd like to see a thread that catalogs those tips; starting here. Please feel free to add comments and direct tips to previous threads or, of course, the Articles Section for specific procedures https://www.bmw2002faq.com/articles.html/technical-articles/ As an example, we have a few new members with early cars in various states of condition and the questions usually start with " what should I do first?" I usually suggest the following. Prep yourself with the basics: Learn how to search FAQ ( this Article is old, but seriously folks, figure it out) https://www.bmw2002faq.com/articles.html/faq-use/how-to-use-search-r171/ Buy a Haynes Manual and spend an evening reading through it so you'll know where to find the info when you need it Equip your toolbox with the best tools you can afford (proper screwdrivers, metric wrenches, flashlight, telescoping magnet, feeler gauge set, etc...) Use jack stands every time you are under the car Have patience and a sense of humor You just pushed it off the trailer into the driveway and the wife is "thrilled"...now what? Clean it up...nothing kills motivation faster than a car that looks like crap Vacuum the inside of all the mouse droppings, dirt, leaves, pine needles, blunts, stems and seeds... Wipe down all the vinyl and glass Clean the engine bay...this may take several days of concerted effort, old greasy buildup won't surrender easily, but a clean engine is sooooo much more pleasant to work on Clean the outside...air up the tires, wash and wax it. Washing by hand will allow you to see loose trim, missing screws, cracked window seals, etc... Step back and envision what it will look like when you are done. Take stock of what is on the car and what is missing. Make a list and prioritize the project's needs. (should you buy a $500 Petri wheel when the engine doesn't even run yet?) Take good pictures of the engine bay, suspension, whatever it is you are working on. It can save you from an "oh crap" moment when you're not sure how something goes back together Compartmentalize your goals to keep from being overwhelmed and know that these projects take time to complete. Expect delays when parts you need are not available locally and it'll be a week before your web order will arrive. Spend the downtime addressing some other part of the project; but always accomplish something; even if it's simply zip-tieing loose wires under the dash; or maybe you can paint those rusty steel wheels? For a car that hasn't run in a while.... fix the brakes and steering before you go anywhere Jack it up as high as you can and place it on jackstands Before removing the wheels, check for excessive play in the wheel bearings Remove wheels and inspect every brake component. Bleed the brake/clutch hydraulics. Any wheel that doesn't bleed easily indicates that a soft line or wheel cylinder, or caliper needs replacing. If it leaks, repair/replace Learn how to adjust the rear brakes and emergency brake...so simple and so important (Haynes manual has a good instructions as does the FAQ) Repack any bearing that displayed excessive free-play (just do them all for peace of mind) Inspect all suspension components for worn/cracked rubber bushings. If it's loose, plan to replace it Old, cracked tires? replace them 13" Kuhmos are what.. $50/each? Is the exhaust rotted out? Is it hanging loose? Always change all fluids unless the PO has good records that he'd recently done it, but double check. Any oil or lube that you drain that is milky or strangely discolored, may indicate water contamination... Not good in any circumstance Here's a good lube link https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/99316-lube-specifications/#comment-276758 Engine oil and filter - you can't go wrong with 20w-50 with ZDDP additive ( I like Valvoline Racing oil) and a Mann or Mahle filter Transmission fluid - drain it and replace with Redline MTL, or 85/140 mixed 2:1 with ATF, or straight 80W dino-lube Differential fluid - drain it and replace with Redline 75/90, or 85/140 dino-lube Fuel system If the car has been been sitting a very long time, unplug and remove the sending unit, drain the gas tank, and inspect the inside of the tank for rust Change the fuel filter Check fuel line hose clamps and replace any rubber fuel line that shows any sign of cracking, or leaking. Not entirely necessary, but you can remove the top of the carb to check for gunk/debris in the fuel bowl which may give an indication of future running problems You could also remove the idle jets and blast them with carb cleaner for good measure Does the car have a mechanical fuel pump or an electric fuel pump? Inspect that it is functioning properly. Engine Remove the valve cover and inspect the valve train, looking for broken valve springs, rockers, etc... Is there a lot of sludgey-oil build up? If you can turn the engine over, perform a valve adjustment https://www.bmw2002faq.com/articles.html/technical-articles/engine-and-drivetrain/valve-adjustment-for-bmw-m10-motor-r27/ It has been recommended for engines that have sat for many years that you pull the plugs and give each cylinder a shot of lubrication... some say diesel fuel, or ATF, or engine oil. You are basically trying to lube the cylinder walls prior to turning the old engine over. Use the FAQ search to find out what you think works best for you. With the valve cover off, set the engine to TDC per the mark on the camshaft and paint your timing marks on the lower pulley and/or the flywheel (check the Haynes manual for these locations.) You WILL thank yourself later when you are setting the timing with a timing light. With the engine at TDC also confirm the static timing of the distributor.( Again the Haynes manual has description and pictures in the Ignition Section). This will insure that the initial startup goes well. Ignition Replace plugs with new ones... NGK BP6ES seems to be the crowd favorite, or Bosch W7DC. Gapped accordingly... 0.025 with points, or about 0.030 with electronic ignitor like Petronix Inspect distributor cap and rotor for cracks. If you have points and condensor, install new and gap/dwell accordingly. Check distributor shaft for excessive axial play (up and down)...worn shaft will make for erratic timing and poor running...something to think about once you are tuning the car up. Check plug and coil wires. Replace them if cracked Inspect wiring at coil. All connections should have tight, crimped, spade connections. If anything has loose, electric tape...inspect it and replace with proper connections. This goes for ALL wiring. Any wiring you find with wads of electric tape should be suspect. Start the engine With a fresh battery (with good cables and clean connections), fresh gasoline, fresh oil and fresh ignition components... turn the key and crank the engine. If you've done all the prep work, hopefully it fires up! if not, you can start troubleshooting more easily now that you know you have replaced, set tolerances, and checked each item ahead of time. Is there spark? Is there fuel? Cooling system Drain radiator and block, remember to open the heater valve (turn the dash lever to hot). The block drain is located on the passenger side of the block, behind the exhaust manifold, below the #3 and #4 exhaust ports... if I remember it's a 17mm bolt. If you remove the bolt and nothing comes out, it's blocked by old, crystalized coolant. Poke it with a stubby screwdriver or wire to clean it out. You must drain the block, though. Refill cooling system with 50/50 antifreeze and distilled water. The 2002 is notorious for developing an air bubble in the cooling system after draining the system. When refilling, elevate the front of the car, leave the radiator cap loose and squeeze the upper radiator hose to insure there are no air bubbles. All this while the engine is running. This is certainly not a comprehensive list but I hope it helps those looking for a way to get started on their new projects. There are so many topics and tips... I hope others will chime in with their favorites; like cleaning all the grounds and light bulb connections because the blinkers don't work. Have a great weekend, Ed Z Cedar Park, Texas
  14. 14 points
  15. 14 points
    Had some fun with the 2002 and decided to share. The opportunity is pretty rare here for us to have the lake frozen with no snow! Let me know what you guys think! https://youtu.be/CBSRAGWFOdM
  16. 13 points
    Here is the prototype of the customer console my Dad created. I am currently sending the CAD drawings out for the face plate to get laser cut from aluminum. Eventually I plan to make a few of these if I can if anyone is interested in a custom upgraded console.
  17. 13 points
    It's basically an entire e30m3 shoe horned into a 2002, like including the power steering and rack and the AC. M3 brake master, pedals hung from the top. Front subframe with brakes, strut tops relocated back so the castor is correct for the m3 suspension. Rear subframe with suspension and brakes from the m3, including the diff. And so much more. It was featured in the first issue of Bimmer magazine, April '98. Car needed to be saved so I went and got it. My wife will most likely shoot me with one of my own guns... Oh, and those are the plates for it, from CA, BMW M2.
  18. 13 points
    Working Patrol El Mirage 11-11-18
  19. 13 points
    Big milestone today for my 02, as it finally rolled over 100k miles! I nearly forgot about how close it was, but remembered in time to snap a couple pics. Have enough documentation to indicate that the car hasn't rolled over once before too And one pic for good measure parked, dirty and deserving of a bath, but shortly to be squirreled away in the garage before this hurricane rolls in..
  20. 13 points
    Depends on your storage options and your wife. Sent from my STH100-1 using Tapatalk
  21. 13 points
    Car was recovered by local police today, a happy ending.
  22. 13 points
    Hi Team, Its been a very happy and exciting weekend for me. This weekend I brought my body shell home. It has taken me 18 months of work to get the body all complete. It was a considerable amount of work for a novice like me but when I look back at the effort I put in, it feels worth it. It is a major milestone for me in my project. Part of me also breathes a sigh of relief knowing that I have managed to get this far. Its been a really steep learning curve for me learning how to weld and grind and deal with parts that don't fit and all sorts of other stuff. Anyway, I just want to thank each and everyone of you all who have helped me with my bodywork. I have been on this forum almost daily looking for parts and advice. I didn't do all the body work myself. There were several aspects that I was unsure of and so I had this old English Gentleman who has been doing this sort of work all his life, help me. I didn't do the final paint preparation and painting and rubbing down etc. That was all body shop. I still have a fair way to go as I put it all back together. Here are some pictures: Sealed all the areas that needed sealing Paint .
  23. 12 points
    Chehalis, Washington. May 18, 2002. I was able to pull this from my VHS and old camera. We were living in Corvallis, Oregon at the time and this was by far the largest number of '02s I had ever seen. Such a great event.The Famous David Lumbra from '2002 Restorations in Eugene, Oregon had two beautiful cars on the lawn. Great memories!! May 18 2002festwest.mp4
  24. 12 points
  25. 12 points
  26. 12 points
    Attended a local car show today. Amongst the 100+ American muscle was Gustav. Ran great in the 104 temp today. With no air, I was the one suffering on the drive home. Love wing windows. They work awesome at 85.
  27. 12 points
    I recently sold my Chevron B16 with the M10 in it and this opened up a slot in my garage. I had been looking for something a little more modern like an ex-DTM E30 M3, but they have gotten crazy expensive. So I looked west and found this: It ran in the JTCC series between 1991 and 1993, finishing runner-up in the championship in 1993 driven by Anthony Reid. The car is coming from Australia and should be here in early February. Here's a little preview of the car from Phillip Island last year:
  28. 12 points
    Papa Z says "Merry Christmas, Y'all" Ed Z
  29. 11 points
    Stumbled across this old picture and thought I would share. Enjoy, Derek
  30. 11 points
    Oh, dear. Search this board for many threads. t
  31. 11 points
    The end of the madness is this: just drive the damn thing. Let the speculators and other assorted douche nozzles do their thing while you have fun wrenching on and driving the everloving piss out of your car. A fun car is worth exactly nothing to me if it's sitting in the garage; it's worth a hell of a lot more than the book value out on the road.
  32. 11 points
    I've heard this whining before in the Porsche world. Wahhhh I thought I was the only one who loved 02's? Wahhhh other people are starting to like them too! Wahhhh parts are so expensive now. Wahhhh people are buying them all up now and driving up the prices. Wahhhh they're only old guys who don't even work on their cars and get their hands dirty. wahhhh wahhh hey you kids, get off my lawn! You should be encouraging people to love these cars, not complaining that they do.
  33. 11 points
    Haha, yeah …..no. I'm going full hog on a billet injection mold for these, so figure a million-billion of them will be produced. Up front cost is high, but price per piece isn't bad. Going out on a limb in hoping more than a couple people want them.
  34. 11 points
    This is when a simple fresh coat of paint turns into an over the top restoration. I’ll still drive it!
  35. 10 points
    Just returned from a 3,670 mile round trip to Eureka Springs, Arkansas. The 19th Mid-America '02 Fest was the largest one ever! 74 2002s, if you count the one on the trailer, an NK Sedan, a Bavaria and an i8 also attended. Doug Riparetti, from Seaside CA, drove 1935 miles and I presented him with the prestigious Iron Butt Award on Saturday night. He travelled 90 miles farther than my 1845 miles. The event weather was perfect, cool and sunny. Friday we had a delightful drive to Rogers for lunch and back to the hotel, about 85 miles total. Terry & Deb Sayther sponsored the Saturday BBQ Dinner. Saturday was show, workshop & how to day. Ben Thongsai & Keith Kreeger were able to get Noel's Golf Tii to run much better. Keith taught Larry gray how to use a timing light on his Inka Tii. Many engines were fussed over, none more than Travis Brint's 2002, going through 3 radiators, he received the Hard Luck Award...their 2002 was eventually flat bedded home as they were headed home. Saturday was also the group shot with and without people. Sunday everyone headed home. The caravan I was with did numerous back roads to get to I-57 and spent the night in Mt. Vernon Illinois. Then as we headed North people peeled off until I was solo outside of Dayton Ohio. Spent the night in Clearfield PA. Tuesday I stopped by VSR for an oil change and a few other repair/replacement items. I arrived home at 6pm.
  36. 10 points
    my carpet sets fit both e10 and 114 ,1967 - 1976 BMWs...
  37. 10 points
    A couple pics from today.
  38. 10 points
    While there is quite a lot of information on EFI conversions for our cars (some of which I will directly reference here), my goal with this article is to help anyone embarking on this type of project with a modular approach, so that one may go at his own pace, and deviate for personal preferences at any point along the way. My own project has been done on a 1975 base 2002 using Megasquirt 2, Ford EDIS, and B&G firmware, so this will be the basis referenced here. All standard disclaimers apply, please be safe about working on your car, and I'm not responsible if you screw something up, but I hope this helps many people interested in pursuing various EFI conversions for their 2002! Useful 2002 Megasquirt conversion blogs: http://www.02again.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/Megasquirt_presentation.pdf http://www.zeebuck.com/bimmers/tech/Megasquirt/preparation.html http://www.finkbuilt.com/blog/category/automotive/megasquirt-efi/ http://customers.hbci.com/~tskwiot/2002.html Intro - Some things to consider If you're just contemplating this undertaking and wondering if it's a good project for you and your car, here's my brief personal advice on the subject. But obviously do your research and decide if it's a project you think you'd like doing. Reasons EFI is a good fit for your 2002: - You like tinkering with your car on a regular basis - You like to drive your car regularly, and thus value better driveabiltiy and reliability - You have and are irked by issues with chokes, cold starts, and warmup Reasons EFI is NOT a good fit for your 2002: - You value originality (your car might end up as much E30 as 2002 by the end). - Your main goal is performance (there are easier, cheaper, and quicker paths to pure horsepower). - You prefer to have someone else work on your car (this can make the tuning process slow, cumbersome, and frustrating). - You want it done quickly or are worried about scope creep. (You WILL find other side projects you'll want to do along the way; the project WILL grow and take more time and money as it goes along. This isn't necessarily a bad thing, but you need to be prepared for all of the 'well, while I'm in here' offshoots). First things first. . . You may not yet have decided on all of the details for a project with such a large scope yet, but that's actually OK, because there are some basic upgrades that make sense to take care of first, and are basically necessary no matter what direction you end up going with your car. We're going to start with a few upgrades to the coolant and electrical system. These items can, and I would say even should, be made to 2002s regardless of EFI, but are certainly required for EFI, and therefore make a good starting point. Section I - Coolant System Preparation We'll begin with the cooling system, for which two specific upgrades are needed: First is an E30 coolant divider with three sensor ports. Try to pick up a used one here on the FAQ, Ebay, or a junkyard, and ideally get one that has all of the E30 sensors already in it. You'll replace one with the stock 2002 sender to keep your dash gauge working, use the stock E30 sensor to provide coolant temperature data to Megasquirt, and leave the third in as a plug or use it for other needs (such as a switch to drive an electric cooling fan). The additional coolant sensor is critical for fuel injection, as it is the main input that adjust how much fuel is injected during a cold start and then during warmup until the car is up to operating temperature. Conveniently, it can also be used as the input to have Megasquirt drive an electric radiator fan directly, which is really nice. Here's what this coolant divider looks like in my car, with the 2002 sender up front, the temperature sensor for Megasquirt behind it, and the switch/plug on the left: Next up, while the coolant system is open, will be the coolant bypass line and hose, also from an E30. You'll need this for pretty much anything other than the stock coolant manifold, be it side draft carbs, ITBs, or the 318i intake. You can salvage one from an E30, or buy a brand new one (or as part of a complete set with all new coolant hoses) from Ireland engineering here: http://www.iemotorsport.com/bmw/2002-cooling/M10sddrfthrdwr.html And here's what it looks like installed on my car, sans intake manifold: On last thing that is worth mentioning here. While you have the coolant drained for performing these upgrades, it makes this a convenient time to also take the radiator out. I'll leave scope-creep items like radiator and fan upgrades for other articles/blogs, but the reason I mention it here is that IF you are planning to use a Ford EDIS ignition setup (which is my recommendation, but see the later ignition section for more details), you will need the radiator out so that you can remove the crank pulley and replace it with one with a trigger wheel. The easiest route that I would recommend is to just purchase a brand new pulley with a trigger wheel and also the sensor mount from Tom at 02again (http://www.02again.com/?page_id=358). Section II - Electrical System Preparation So, with the main items for the coolant system in process and/or already taken care of, we will next move to the primary electrical system upgrades needed for EFI. The first involves relocating the battery from the original location in the engine bay to *somewhere* else in the car. The most popular new homes are either in the trunk or under the rear seat, but you can put it pretty much wherever you want to, as long as you get it the heck out of the way up front. I didn't like the idea of losing trunk space and drilling into the rust-prone rear shock towers, so I chose to follow Zeebucks lead and installed two Hawker Odyssey batteries under the back seat, and will link to his complete instructions for this here: http://www.zeebuck.com/bimmers/tech/batteryrelocation/underseatbattery.html The only deviations I made from his method were to route the cable through the interior and through the drivers side firewall instead of underneath the car, and I then brought the positive terminal into a sealed junction box on the inside of the front drivers side fender just underneath the relay bracket. Here's a great picture I nabbed while I happened to have the engine out: I'm pretty sure I picked this up at a local Lowes or Home Depot, but I haven't been able to find it again. So at least here's a link to something similar that I did find on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Position-Terminals-Electric-Junction/dp/B012NJUUG4 I further followed in Zeebuck's footsteps and installed the larger 80-amp alternator from a 318i, in order to have enough overhead to power all of the additional electronic components for EFI and engine management systems I'd be adding. Again, his guide for this is already complete and excellent, so I'll point you to that write up here: http://www.zeebuck.com/bimmers/tech/318alternator/318ialternator.html Lastly, I added a small additional blade fuse box (picked it up either from Autozone or Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/OLS-6-Way-Blade-Indicator-Protection/dp/B00QMTAZ1W) up in the front of the car to provide the fused terminals for the forthcoming additional electronics. The +12V supply for this fuse box is provided from a relay which is switched by the ignition. The stock 2002 ignition switch actually powers a LOT of things directly and needs to handle fairly high current. This isn't exactly desirable, and you certainly don't want to any more load to this poor 40 year old switch, so please heed this advice and use a relay for this job, and do NOT power any additional electronics directly from the ignition switch. On square-light vehicles, you'll be looking for a solid green wire from the ignition switch to run the coil (terminal 85 or 86) on the relay. You can find this wire several places; it supplies fuses #4 and #12, powers the stock ignition coil, and runs to the lights and turn signals. Something else I should add here is that the stock wiring for the headlights is not that great, as the headlight switch must switch the full load for the headlights, some 20 amps! Although there are relays in the circuit, they aren't used as relays should be. As such, I took the opportunity to rewire the entire relay area and put in a new relay box to house everything. I mention this not because it's necessary for EFI, but because it's what you'll see in all of my pictures and wiring diagrams, so you need to know what you're looking at. Here's my full wiring schematic and final product, for those interested: Relay_wiring.pdf One final note in this section, and that's regarding electrical connections. You can continue to use plain old spade terminals for just about everything, but as this project involves a lot more wires and connections than the original system, I found it easier to buy a kit full of Weatherpack connectors to make multi-wired connections. My new fuse box for example uses two 5-wire connectors (white in the photo) to hook up the 10 wires coming from the relays to the wiring harness. (I think I ran the ground wire individually). If you want to take a similar route, here's a good Weatherpack starter kit on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/JEGS-Performance-Products-Weatherpack-Starter/dp/B0081ZY4EY Section III - Wideband O2 sensor This is the final stand-alone part that is key to running EFI, but also equally useful for tuning a carburetor-equipped car. There are two basic types of O2 sensors, narrow- and wide-band. Narrow band sensors check if there is any un-burnt oxygen in the exhaust stream and report that back as either a rich or lean condition. Wideband sensors on the other hand are a little more sophisticated and report back just how much rich or lean the engine is running. The target here is an air/fuel ratio in the range of 12~15 (depending on exact conditions) which represents the point at which both all fuel and all oxygen are burned. For either a carb or EFI, this feedback lets you see under which operating conditions you should change the amount of fuel flow to your engine to try to maintain this perfect balance all the time. With EFI, it's as easy as adjusting the numbers in the tuning software, and for a carb it means trying out some different jets. It can also be used in EFI for closed-loop feedback, where the engine management system will automatically make fueling adjustments on the fly based on what the oxygen sensor is seeing. I installed the fairly common LC-1 wideband kit from Innovate: http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lc1.php There are many others, some probably better and some worse, but I chose this one as it was not hideously expensive and because it provides two analog outputs, one of which goes to Megasquirt and the other which can drive the gauge in the cockpit. The important points to remember for installing an Oxygen sensor are: - Mount the O2 sensor in the upper half of the exhaust pipe, at a point AFTER the exhaust streams from all 4 cylinders have come together. Here's what mine looks like right by the front of the transmission: - Make sure to program BOTH of the two analog outputs for 0-5V. As received one of the two outputs is programmed to function like a narrow band instead of a wideband. - I mounted the control unit on the passenger side of the engine bay just in front of the firewall. You can see it in this picture zip tied to the lip just above the distributor area: Section IV - Ignition (NOTE: If you are only interested in ignition control and want to keep your car carbureted, there is a system called Megajolt which is similar to Megasquirt but only for ignition control without EFI: https://www.autosportlabs.com/product/megajolte/) Ok, now we have reached the first major decision point in the project. It's time to decide what type of ignition system you'd like to run. I'm going to assume that you want SOME type of electronically controlled ignition, as this project would pretty much be a waste otherwise. Here are the three main options that I know of to choose from: 1.) 123/TUNE - https://www.123ignitionshop.com/gb/tune-bmw/106-123tune4rvbmw.html This option has the advantage of being stand-alone, you could install this straight away on a stock car and be done if you wanted and not bother with EFI. It also very stock looking, and works wonderfully with a Bosch blue coil. If you looking for something quick and turnkey, this is what I would probably recommend. However, if you plan to continue on with a Megasquirt EFI installation, I would instead recommend going with one of the next next two options. 1.) Megasquirt direct coil control - This is basically the same as the 123Tune setup, with the only differences being you will instead use your stock distributor (it's only purpose here is to direct the spark to the correct plug), and you will program the timing through Megasquirt, which will then directly control the firing of the ignition coil. NOTE: you will need to make sure your Megasquirt control board is built properly to support this. Here's the link to the direct coil control section in the MegaManual: http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/vb921.htm 3.) Ford EDIS - Don't let the Ford brand name dissuade you, this is a truly elegant and awesome ignition system! It is a distributor-less system that works in a wasted-spark configuration, so the only inputs it needs are crank position and RPM, and it can be easily driven by Megasquirt with whatever advance curve you desire. If you're going EFI, and especially if you're using Megasquirt, this is the way to go. The parts are readily available, usually quite cheap, and it integrates perfectly in with MS. I will detail out its parts and installation below. NOTE: you will need to make sure your Megasquirt control board is built properly to support this. Here's the link to the EDIS section of the MegaManual: http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/EDIS.htm 4.) Coil on Plug (COP) - You may by all means pursue and COP system and drive it with Megasquirt, and I think several 2002 owners have done so. But my advice on this one is frankly don't bother and just stick with the Ford EDIS. I won't dissuade you if COP is what you want, but I feel there's basically no advantages for using it in a 2002, and here are my reasons. COP is mainstream today because it offers several advantages on MODERN cars. These include things like no HT wires (which interfere with AM radio reception), longer dwell times to make a more powerful spark, and the ability to control the ignition on each individual cylinder, including things like multiple ignition events. But in order to control just one cylinder at a time, we need to know which one of the two paired cylinders (2 or 3 and 1 or 4) is on it's compression stroke vs. exhaust stroke. This generally requires a camshaft position sensor (as far as I know impossible to install on a 2002), or requires the signal from the distributor (to identify which cylinder should be firing), but to me that's just hokey to still have the distributor as part of a distributor-less ignition setup. The way around this, and how the Ford EDIS works, is to utilize what is known as a wasted-spark configuration, where the spark is fired for both paired cylinders (based just on crankshaft position), and the spark for the cylinder on its exhaust stroke is therefore 'wasted.' COP can be set up in a wasted spark configuration also, but now the advantages of longer dwell time and individual cylinder control are negated, and it's really no different than the Ford EDIS setup, just more complicated. Unless of course, you strongly value AM radio. Here's a link to the best thread I've come across on this topic, should you decide you'd like to research the topic further: https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/180502-individual-coil-on-plug-cop-option/ Installing MS-controlled EDIS in the 2002 If you'll take my recommendation, this is the way to go, and here's how you accomplish this: 1.) Read and understand the EDIS section in the MegaManual: http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/EDIS.htm 2.) Trigger wheel - As I mentioned in the coolant section, the easiest way to do this is to buy the correct crank pulley with the trigger wheel already on it from 02Again (http://www.02again.com/?page_id=358). Sadly, this option was not available to me when I started my project, so instead I had a local shop turn a collar for me to mount a scavenged Ford trigger wheel to a stock E30 crank pulley. But I can tell you the next time that I have the radiator out of the car for some reason, I'm going seize the opportunity to upgrade to the 02again pulley/wheel! Anyway, here's how mine looks like currently: If you look closely in the picture, you can see a small white arrow on the wheel where one tooth is missing, and this is lined up with the #1 cylinder TDC mark on the crankshaft. This missing tooth tells the EDIS brain where TDC is, and then it 'counts' each tooth as it moves past the sensor so that it always knows what position the engine is in, and can decide when to fire the spark accordingly. The sensor should be mounted so that is lined up with the 5th tooth AHEAD of the gap when the missing tooth is at TDC. There's a 'trigger offset' parameter in the Megasquirt software to adjust this if it's not perfect, but it's wise to still try to get it pretty close, so that the EDIS will function correctly in 'limp home' mode. This is a built-in backup where, if for some reason there is no signal from Megasquirt as to what timing is desired, the EDIS will default to simply firing consistently at a static 10deg BTDC. This means the car will still be able to run on just EDIS alone, albeit not very well at higher revs and at a loss of power, but it's great for testing to make sure everything is working and just in case something should go wrong. NOTE: If you have or desire air conditioning in your car, that complicates matters as the compressor pulley is right were we want to mount the trigger wheel. I think this is still possible, but will likely require a different trigger wheel and some extra ingenuity and custom work on your part. 3.) Crank position sensor - Should be pretty obvious by this point, this is the VR sensor that senses the teeth on the crank trigger wheel and sends the signal back to the EDIS brain. There's a link to the right sensor on the above mentioned 02again website, and the right connector I know can be sourced here: https://www.autosportlabs.com/product/ford-crank-position-sensor-pigtail/ The only two things to remember here are to make sure that the sensor wires are shielded to prevent electrical noise in the signal, and to set gap between the sensor and the wheel teeth to about 1mm. 4.) EDIS module, coil pack, and wires - Honestly your best bet for the module these days is probably Ebay, although if you have a local salvage yard that you like to frequent, look for an early 90s Ford Escort/Mercury Tracer to liberate these parts from. You'll want the EDIS-4 module, connector, and coil pack connector (don't bother with the donor coil pack or plug wires themselves, see below). Should look like this: The original Ford coil pack and wires are ludicrously difficult to mount, but fortunately more user-friendly brand new options are available for cheap, such as this coil pack from Amazon for just $20: https://www.amazon.com/Ignition-Mazda-Mercury-Compatible-C1341/dp/B00FRLQKUQ To install this coil pack, I *think* I purchased this wonderful mount from 02Again, but I don't see it listed on the website, so you might need to inquire. It mounts in the stock distributor location, nicely plugging the hole for the now unnecessary distributor while maintaining a stock-ish look: For plug wires, the *RIGHT* set to look for is a 2001-2003 Ford Taurus 3.0L V6 with 24V/DOHC. This will fit both that coil and the 2002 cylinder head. Do NOT get wires from the very similar 3.0L SOHC V6 from the same vintage Tauruses!!! Here's what I bought: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/TAY-82633 Here's how my wires look installed, note the use of the E30 exhaust manifold gasket with the extra exhaust heat shield: 5.) Wiring - This is pretty straight forward, just follow the diagram below. EDIS pins 1 and 3 to Megasquirt pins 24 and 36, VR sensor goes to EDIS pins 5 and 6, both paired shields go to pin 7, pin 8 gets +12V (from the new fuse panel), 9 is ground, and 10 and 12 go to the coils: NOTE: This is important to keep your tachometer working! The Megamanual presents a schematic using some diodes to tie the output of the two coils together to drive the tachometer, but I worked for months on this and could never get it to work properly. I think the flyback voltage that the stock tach wants to see is higher than what makes it through the diodes. What DID work for me in the end is actually much simpler. EDIS pin #11 (CTO) is the tach signal output. This with a big NON-POLARIZED capacitor (I used 0.068uF) in the line directly drives my tachometer perfectly throughout the whole rev range! In this picture, you can see where I mounted the EDIS module to the firewall and you can even see the orange capacitor dangling down just below the module on the yellow wire, before it plugs into the original factory tachometer wiring: Section V - Megasquirt controller This will be a pretty short section, as you only have two major decisions to make here: Which version of Megasquirt and do you want to buy: a turnkey pre-assembled module or the kit and build/solder your own? I built my own; mostly for the fun of it, but it was also a bit cheaper. But if you don't like soldering or are in a hurry, it's probably worth the extra $200 to buy the pre-assembled version. There may be other sources, but the main one that I know of and would recommend for all Megasquirt kits is www.DIYautotune.com. Here's a short list of the options and my thoughts on each of them: Megasquirt I - This is the cheapest option at only around $200 for the kit, and it does in fact have all the capability necessary to run a naturally aspirated 2002 withEFI and spark via EDIS, making this a perfectly acceptable route for a budget build. I would however in general recommend stepping up to MS2 for most people, primarily because the MS2 community is larger and therefore it's easier to find answers than for MS1. I also think the MS1 processor is now obsolete and no longer supported. MS1 DIY kit: https://www.diyautotune.com/product/megasquirt-i-programmable-efi-system-pcb3-0-kit-w-black-case/ MS1 assembled: https://www.diyautotune.com/product/megasquirt-i-programmable-efi-system-pcb3-0-assembled-unit/ Megasquirt II - This was my pick because it's far cheaper than MS3, has all the capability you could ever need for a 2002 (including forced induction, etc), and a nice large support community. As far as assembly time, I think it took me about a month working about an hour or so at a time several evenings a week. It's definitely time consuming, but an absolutely tremendous learning experience for both the principals of EFI/engine control as well as electronics in general, which is what made it worth it for me. I feel that the knowledge gained here makes the tuning process vastly easier to tackle when that time comes. MS2 DIY kit: https://www.diyautotune.com/product/megasquirt-ii-programmable-efi-system-pcb3-0-kit-w-black-case/ MS2 assembled: https://www.diyautotune.com/product/megasquirt-ii-ems-system-smd-pcb3-57-assembled-ecu Microsquirt - This is basically the same thing as a pre-assembled MS2 but in a smaller package and slightly cheaper. I think the one drawback is that it needs and additional module to support idle control with a stepper motor. Since I've already had the fun and learning of building one MS2 setup, I would give Microsquirt some serious consideration if I were ever to do a second car. Microsquirt: https://www.diyautotune.com/product/microsquirt-engine-management-system-w-8-39-wiring-harness/ Megasquirt III - While the capabilities of MS3 are truly awesome, I think it's really hard to justify the additional cost for use on an M10 engine. Features like 8-cylinder sequential injector control, 4-bank wankel control, water injection, nitrous, CAN-bus support, etc. are just, well, unnecessary for a 2002. But if for some reason you are interested in going this route, here's a link. MS3 assembled: https://www.diyautotune.com/product/megasquirt-iii-ems-system-v3-57-assembled-unit-w-black-case/ The last main thing you'll need is the MS wiring harness, which I STRONGLY recommend you just buy instead of make. For $80, you get the right connector complete with 10 feet of high quality, different colored and labeled wires. You just can't beat that! https://www.diyautotune.com/product/10-39-megasquirt-wiring-harness-ms1-ms2-ms3-ready/ Once you've sourced or built your Megasquirt board, don't forget that before sealing it up in it's enclosure that you'll need to load some firmware on it. There are two main types of firmware: 1.) 'Stock' firmware (use MegaTune software for tuning) 2.) MS/Extra firmware (use TunerStudio software for tuning) I used the stock code and MegaTune and now that I'm used to it and have the car running great I'm not going to bother changing, but for new builds I would recommend using the MS/Extra code and TunerStudio. It recent years it seems to have 'won out' in the mainstream and for all intents and purposes, it's just better. Instructions and source for stock firmware: http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/install.htm Instructions and source for MS/Extra firmware: https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/hardware/diypnp/documentation/diypnp-v1-5/loading-firmware/ Optionally, you might find it useful to also pick up the Stimulator. This neat little doodad runs on a 9V battery and plugs into the Megasquirt controller and simulates all of the various engine systems (e.g. RPM, MAP, temperature, AFR, etc.) This allows you to fully bench-test and program your Megasquirt so that you know it basically works BEFORE you start hacking into your actual car. Below is a picture of my just-completed MS2 on it's first test run using the Stimulator. Boy, I can still remember bouncing off the walls with happiness that evening! https://www.diyautotune.com/product/megasquirt-stimulator-v2-2-assembled-unit/ Section VI - EFI Hardware Here's where things start to get fun, installing the major components needed for EFI, but this is also sort of a point of no return, so make sure you have your Megasquirt controller working, all of the parts ready, and enough down time lined up before you pull the trigger. We'll start with the list of parts/hardware needed, and then go into the details of each: 1.) Intake manifolds 2.) Throttle bodies 3.) Individual throttle bodies (ITBs) 4.) Fuel rail & injectors 5.) Fuel pump 6.) Additional sensors 7.) Idle control 8.) Megasquirt controller and wiring harness 9.) Miscellaneous NOTE: Plan out and source everything before installing anything, and then start with the wiring (step 8.) first! 1a.) Plenum intake manifolds - For a more tii look, I think it's possible to use an E21 320i intake manifold or even a 2002tii manifold, but I'm not going to recommend that as I have no idea how to get the right fuel rail or injectors for it, but I think it has been done before. For 95% of us, the E30 318i intake is the way to go. It's basically plug-n-play, and is fantastically engineered by those Bavarians for off-the-chart fantastic mid-range performance. I'd guess less than $50 on ebay or from junkyards. Just one personal request, please take the time to clean up and paint your manifold. It's easy to do before installing it, and makes it everything look so much better! 2.) Throttle body - If you pick up a manifold with the 318i throttle body already on it, then great! For a stock to mildly-modified engine this will work just fine. Megamanual calculator says this should be fine up to 116 horsepower. If you plan for your engine to go above that however, you'll probably want a slightly larger one from either the 325e or 325is. Here's a link to a detailed run down of each and, as always, there's a wonderful adapter plate available at 02again.com! http://mybmw1600-2.blogspot.com/2011/08/throttle-bodies.html http://www.02again.com/?page_id=30 While you're shopping on 02again there are some other accessories that you'll probably want to order as well, including the IAC adapter (for idle control), the throttle position sensor mount, and again though this isn't on the website I think I sourced this nice set of aluminum plugs from there for plugging up all of the various unused ports on the TB. One note, I did need to backfill some of the openings with epoxy, as the plugged holes would whistle something fierce at certain throttle positions! 3.) - ITBs - For those that desire more top end horsepower than mid-rage torque, there are several ITB options for EFI out there. Having previously loved dual DCOEs, I've often toyed with this idea, but for me I think it will need to be done on a different car. There simply isn't enough room in the 2002 engine bay to get long enough runners on ITBs to match the mid-range performance of the impeccably designed 318 manifold, so in my opinion ITBs are a better match for an engine build that's designed for a >4000 RPM power band. But if you have high compression pistons (10.0:1 or greater), a rather aggressive cam (292 or greater), and some porting, this will likely be the route you want to pursue. I know of two vendors (formerly TWM, now Borla, and Dbilas) that market EFI throttle bodies with mounting geometry that matches DCOE carburetors, so if you already happen to have a manifold for dual sidedrafts, this becomes rather straight forward. The TWM/Borla parts are found here: http://www.borlainduction.com/2900-series.html and are probably the way to go if you already have a sidedraft manifold. If you don't already have a manifold, then I would probably go for the Dbilas kit, as it comes with everything including the throttle bodies: http://www.dbilas-shop.com/Products/Throttle-body-kit/Street/BMW/M10/Mutli-throttle-intake-system-for-1602-1802-2002-316-318-518-520-E21-E30-1-5-2-0-8V-M10::10351.html Lastly, I have also toyed with the idea of running just one of these throttle bodies on the Lynx single-sidedraft manifold that I have. I've done some calculations and think it should work, but would take some pretty specific selection of injectors and fuel control setup. If you want to experiment with this, contact me directly for the specifics as I don't want to bore everybody with the math here, but in case this peaks your interest, here's the link to the manifold: https://www.racetep.com/manufacturer/carbs-and-injection/weber/conversion-kits/bmw-2002-320i-m10-engine-single-sidedraft-dcoe-conversion-kits.html I won't go into much more detail on ITBs here as there is already a good writeup on this from Johnup, so see here for further reading on the subject: https://www.bmw2002faq.com/articles.html/technical-articles/engine-and-drivetrain/2002-carby-to-itb-megasquirt-injection-r19/ 4a.) Fuel Rails - Unfortunately I can't offer much help with fuel rails for E21 or tii manifold setups, but the others are easy; the ITB vendors all supply their own rails and the 318 intake uses the stock 318 rail including fuel pressure regulator. Again you can clean up and use the one from a donor vehicle or buy new parts. Here are links to the right parts from ECS, but I think local dealer pricing is also decent on these parts, with the added bonus of offering a CCA discount: Fuel rail: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/fuel-rail/13531707731/ Fuel pressure regulator: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-bosch-parts/30-bar-fuel-pressure-regulator/13531722040~bos/ Injector retainer clips: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw-parts/fuel-injector-clip-priced-each/13531274729/ (DON'T FORGET THESE CLIPS, otherwise the rail can pop off of the injectors, dumping high pressure fuel into you engine bay, ask me how I know!) 4b.) Injectors - You'll need to estimate your engines peak horsepower for this, but once you do that the rest is easy. The important thing to remember is to get the SMALLEST injector that you can which still flows enough fuel at peak horsepower. The reason not to oversize much on the injectors is because then the pulse width will get very very short at idle, making it both difficult to tune and not as smooth of an idle as is possible with the smaller sized injectors. Here are my guidelines: Up to 130HP get 19# Bosch yellow tops: https://www.fiveomotorsport.com/bosch-yellow-top-19lb-fuel-injector 130-150HP get 21# Bosch pink tops: https://www.fiveomotorsport.com/bmw-0280150440-pink-top-13641703819 150-165HP get 24# Bosch blue tops: https://www.fiveomotorsport.com/24lb-bosch-fuel-injector-0280150947-blue-top Here's the correct EV1 connector for all of the above Bosch injectors: https://www.diyautotune.com/product/fuel-injector-pigtails-bosch-ev1/ And lastly here's the fuel injector in the MegaManual for more information: http://www.megamanual.com/v22manual/minj.htm#fb 5.) Fuel pump - We need to pause here and again give thanks to the old generation of Bavarian engineers, who developed stuff that just plain worked and then didn't feel the need to mess with things every few months just for the hell of it! It is because of this that we have the very great fortune of having a high pressure fuel injection pump available that drops straight into the 2002 fuel tank with no modifications whatsoever! Obviously the E30 is once again our benefactor, and ebay and junkyards are the best budget options. The pump is available new and not too expensive from off-brand manufactures, but the sending unit for the fuel gauge (which ALSO works perfectly with the 2002 gauge, as hard as that is to believe) I only see listed as 'genuine BMW' for lots o' $$$. Here's the link to ECS with the various options: https://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E30-318is-M42_1.8L/Search/SiteSearch/Fuel_Pump/ Note: there are two versions of the hanger, one with a return fitting and one without, so check to see if your tank has a return fitting on the tank itself. If it does, here's the version with only the supply fitting: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-vemo-parts/fuel-pump-assembly/16141184022~vmo/ You will need to install another relay to power the fuel pump (power for it can come from that nice new fuse panel), and this relay's negative coil will be controlled by Megasquirt. I did something pretty clever with the wiring here: since my rear window defrost wires were all rotted and non-functioning, I used those existing defrost wires to run back to the fuel pump instead of trying to run a new set of wires back through the whole length of the car. All installed, mine looks like this: Other than a short priming pulse at start-up, MS will not run the pump unless there is an RPM signal >0. While this is moderately safe, additional oil pressure and/or roll-over sensors can be added as further safety measures to cut off the fuel pump in the event of an accident. And as always, here's the link the fueling section of the Megamanual: http://www.useasydocs.com/details/fuelsys.htm IMPORTANT: You MUST run new fuel line rated for high pressure fuel injection for the supply line from the tank to the fuel rail! If you have a late-model Sqaurie, you can cheat a little by swapping things and using the steel RETURN line on the driver's side of the car for the supply, and then running the low pressure return through the plastic line the runs through the passenger side interior. Be sure to run all new fuel injection rated rubber lines everywhere on the high pressure supply though, and certainly do NOT use the stock plastic line for the supply! 6.) Sensors - EFI requires a few extra sensors than what were normally included on cars in the 70s, so here's the list of additional input sensors that you'll need to plan on adding: a.) Coolant temperature - See previous coolant section, use the E30 temp sensor in the coolant divider neck, and program the temperature curve in Megasquirt. b.) Throttle position sensor - Use the TPS sensor from a late 80s Nissan 300Z with the adapter mount from 02again.com c.) Oxygen sensor - See above, use and Innovate LC-1 or similar heated wideband O2 sensor with 0-5v analog output. d.) Inlet air temperature sensor - Use this open element GM sensor somewhere in the intake track before the throttle body and program temperature curve in Megasquirt: https://www.diyautotune.com/product/gm-open-element-iat-sensor-with-pigtail/ 7.) Idle control - The two basic options for idle control are a fast idle solenoid and a stepper motor idle air control valve. If you've got the 318i intake route, your job is again ridiculously easy as you can just get the adapter block from 02again.com (I told you at the beginning this was a great place for this project!) and the proper 90s Jeep stepper motor. Wire it up according the the Megasquirt wiring diagram for a stepper IAC and here are the 02again installation instructions: http://www.02again.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/IAC-Control-Block-Installation-Instructions.pdf If you are not using the 318i manifold, then a fast idle solenoid is likely easier to install as it can be plumbed in with hoses, but this pretty much exhausts my knowledge of fast idle solenoids here, and I also unfortunately have no idea how to approach idle control with ITBs. On a side note, if you use the stepper motor, Megasquirt allows you to configure your unused fast idle output for other purposes; I have mine set up to control my electric cooling fan! Megamanual link to idle control: http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/IAC.htm 8.) Megasquirt controller and wiring harness - Maybe I should have put this further up, because these are really the FIRST pieces of hardware that you'll want to install, on the other hand you need to already have planned out all of the above hardware and options before installing anything. Anyway, once you know what hardware you're going to use, how everything will be plumbed, where all of the sensors will go, and so on; you should then start laying out the wiring harness. It's easiest to do this with all of the old hardware out of the way so you can really work at tucking the wires back out of the way to keep things clean looking. I recommend laying out all of the wires individually, and then wrapping them/sheathing them in conduit in sections. Obviously if you haven't already ridded your car of all of the obscene 70's emissions junk, then do this concurrently, as reuse those same wiring clips for the new stuff. The Megasquirt controller needs to be mounted in the car's interior (it's not meant to survive in the engine bay environment), so this means making one big hole somewhere in the fire wall big enough to pull the whole wiring harness through. The best spot I found for this was on the passenger's side high up in the foot well, just underneath where the brake lines come across (obviously be careful not to drill through your brake lines!) I also used a small bit of coolant hose as a grommet: NOTE: Since you'll likely have purchased a wiring harness with the Megasquirt DB39 connector already on one end, this means you'll need to feed the whole length of the harness through the firewall from inside to outside, and this takes some patience! Besides the harness, you also need to run a vacuum line through the firewall to get Megasquirt the MAP signal. I was able to do this right along side the plastic fuel return line, thereby saving drilling an additional hole. Once the whole harness is through the firewall, you can start routing all of the individual wires. Once you have everything laid out, the next step is to install all of the proper connectors on the ends, and then finally wrap and tuck all of the various branches. Here's how my finished wiring harness looked laid out in the engine bay before installing any of the hardware: It's trickier than it sounds to layout wiring cleanly, so take your time with this process, make good soldered connections, cover them in heat-shrink tubing, and wrap/tape up conduit joints and ends, and you'll end up very pleased with how much cleaner the whole engine bay looks in the end! Here's a copy of the general Megasquirt wiring diagram (including EDIS) that's a good one to work from: As I mentioned the MS controller box itself needs to be mounted in the interior of the car. Many people choose to mount it inside the glove box which works just great, but I didn't want to give up that much real estate in my glove box so instead I chose to mount mine on top of the transmission tunnel behind the center console where, as long as the car has no A/C, affords a good bit of space. I did later end up also installing an amp for my built-in Android tablet here and an RS232-to-Bluetooth adapter for wireless connectivity to Megasquirt (https://www.efianalytics.com/products/class1Bluetooth.html), at which point I moved the MS module up on to the face of the heater core box (having already had the heater box out once, that's not a job I plan to EVER do again on this car!) 9.) Miscellaneous - Probably the two most difficult parts of this installation, at least for me, were the intake plumbing to the throttle body and the throttle linkage. The stock E30 intake boots/etc. obviously will fit, but I didn't have this so I managed to cobble together a decent setup using the generi
  39. 10 points
    Just a quick update. We should be shipping these at the end of this week. I'll post again once they are on the way. Thanks everyone for your enthusiasm and support.
  40. 10 points
    I know a lot of folks like to see photos of long dormant '02s so I thought I would post these. I acquired this car last winter from a guy who specializes in old Volvos. He came across it in his travels --it has apparently been off the road since 1987 and sitting in a garage. He bought it and put it in his car barn (which was jammed with a crazy collection of cars) with the thought of restoring it but decided he has too many projects and so sold it to me. I like it because although it has been in the Northeast all these years, it appears to have sat out the last thirty winters so it is very solid (which of course is different from rust free). The photos before the 1987 sticker show how it looked when I acquired it and the photos after show how it appears now after some cleaning. I really hope I can get it on the road soon. (Maybe I can go to school on Coastal Crush's putt if he gets going on his '74 Tii that has been in a similar slumber.) Note to the tire guys: they are Kleber C14s, 165R13, made in Germany. Its too bad they have to go, still plenty of tread! From the archives: "The BMW 2002 US VIN 4222575 was manufactured on February 20th, 1974 and delivered on February 22nd, 1974 to the BMW importer Hoffman Motors Corp. in New York City. The original colour was Granatrot metallic, paint code 025."
  41. 10 points
    The "big brakes" upgrade is probably the most-frequently asked question when it comes to upgrading an '02 for high-performance driving. In fact "big brakes" is really a misnomer because what we are really after here isn't necessarily a larger diameter brake rotor (although these upgrades below do give you a marginally larger rotor), but in fact rotors that are vented for better cooling. Braking systems are basically heatsinks that suck kinetic energy out of a bunch of flying metal, plastic and glass, and convert it into heat: depositing it in the brake rotor itself. Then the rotor is supposed to shed it into the rushing, cool night air... Vented brakes simply allow this process to take place with more efficiency, in addition to having a higher basic mass which will by itself soak up more heat without failing. Which option you choose to get your vented brakes will depend mostly on where you are starting. For tii owners, the best option is to use the brakes from the e12 early 5-series sedan or e24 6-series coupe. They will fit on the stock tii spindles and require no other modification of the car. For non-tii '02s, really there are two major options. One is to go with all-BMW parts and buy a set of tii front struts. Then use the parts from an e12 sedan or e24 coupe as stated above. The other option is to just use the Girling Vented calipers from a mid-80s Volvo 240, and the rest of the parts from the e21 320i. This will save you some money if you are starting with a "regular" '02, and provide braking on par with the pure-BMW solution above. Please note that Rob Torres, Jr. of 2002 Haus recommends the use of tii struts with their the larger spindles if you are running large-diameter (15"+) wheels, or else you will chew up wheel bearings at a rapid rate! Thanks to Rob for the tip! Other options involve using racing brakes from people like Wildwood and the like. If you are considering operating at this level, the best advice is to find a vendor who will work with you to get the product installed on your car. Some vendors also sell other higher-end braking solutions such as lightweight aluminum calipers, and these kits will come with everything you need to adapt them to your car. Because we are only worried about the DIY-type stuff at this point, here are the details for low-buck, big-bang brake upgrades: Parts Required for tii upgrade: New 1977 e21 Vented rotors Used e21 hubs up through 1979 (junkyard) New or Used e12/e24 up through 1981 calipers (I'd just buy already-rebuilt ones but you could get good used ones or rebuildable ones from a junkyard for less $$) New brake hoses (unless yours are less than five years old, you might as well refresh/upgrade while its apart. Braided stainless ones will give you the best performance.) New wheel bearings Wheel bearing grease New performance brake pads Two pints of new brake fluid (might want to get a pressure bleeder too) If you are upgrading to the "pure-BMW" solution from a standard '02, then you will obviously also need a set of tii struts in addition to the above. Parts Required for non-tii upgrade: New 1977(only) e21 Vented rotors Used 1981-83 e21 Hubs (just get these from a junkyard: dont buy new like I did... ;p) New or Used Girling Vented Calipers for a mid-80s Volvo 240 with VENTED brakes. (There are rumors of ATE Vented calipers also being available but the Girlings are far more available and that is probably for a good reason.) New brake hoses (unless yours are less than five years old, you might as well refresh/upgrade while its apart. Braided stainless ones will give you the best performance.) New wheel bearings Wheel bearing grease New performance brake pads Two pints of new brake fluid (might want to get a pressure bleeder too) Four 1" standard galvanized or stainless steel (why not, right?) washers Be aware that certain 13" wheels will NOT fit over these upgraded calipers. In some circumstances, you can do a little grinding on the outside of the caliper to get them to fit, but you will need to start with a wheel with a good deal of offset amd should be as wide open inside as possible. Project: SAFELY raise the car and put it on jackstands. All the standard disclaimers apply. I don't want to get the FAQ sued because some e46 clownie wandered in here and decided to try this. (;p) Basically, make sure the wheels are chocked behind them, its in gear, the e-brake is on (and working!), and your teeth are gritted. Put a floor jack under the middle of the front subframe with a block of wood between jack and subframe to protect and spread load. Raise the car and then put jackstands under the frame rails that are welded to the front floors. Again use some wood to buffer the stands and spread the load some. Remove the road wheels, then remove the old brake lines and calipers. Theres not much to this, just some angry grunting with the aforementioned gritted teeth and possibly some flagrant cussing. Its also messy work, and you will need to drain the brake fluid, so get a pan or bucket too. Once you have the caliper removed, and the old brake lines (this part can be a nightmare in itself! Get out the vice grips and rhyming dictionary!), remove the cotter pin and big wheel nut, and then the old rotors and hubs (as a unit). Again, this is just dirty, messy but straightforward work. Next is to clean the spindles, and inspect them for wear. IF you have a non-tii car and find that your spindles are shot/worn/etc., THIS might be a good time to think about upgrading to a tii strut-based setup (you didnt already order all the Volvo parts, did you!? - just something to think about before indeed placing that order.) If you have used hubs, you have to remove the old seals and bearings and clean them up. I bought new hubs like an idiot, which I immediately got filthy just by handling them. But, CLEAN them up so that you can put in the new clean bearings and grease. Pack the new bearings with grease. If you've never done this before, the `word "pack" pretty much covers it. Do not OVERpack them because this will interfere with torquing down the main wheel nut. You will want to retighten the main wheel nut in 100 miles anyway, and you can put a wrench on the main wheel nut to give it a good squish, then back off and tighten the nut as described a little more below. Install the new bearings into the hub and install the new seal with a flat piece of wood. As I recall, the seals go in flush with the edge of the hub, but I'm not totally sure about that. Then install the hub onto the spindle. Put the outer bearing, washer, and nut on, then spin the hub and finger tighten the big wheel nut until the hub stops. Then back it off a smidge and then put in the cotter pin. Make sure there is veryvery little to no play in the assembly when you rack it up and down, and that it also spins freely when you spin it with your hand. Put the new rotor on, and then slide the new (rebuilt, etc.) caliper over it with the new brake pads installed. Make sure that the bleeder nipples are facing up, otherwise the system will be impossible to bleed correctly. Next install your new hoses. Some of you Volvo upgraders might want to think about using a tii or for tii people, an e28 master cylinder at this point too. The theory is that a larger set of calipers will require more volume of fluid to move the pistons a given distance. If you have a larger master, this will supply that additional flow. In my case, I used a 528 master cylinder. Im not exactly sure what the deal is with the rear proportioning systems in these various MCs, but since I am going to use rear discs eventually, I havent let it keep me up nights yet. Most people, however, simply choose to use the rear brakes from a 320i. Once you have the rear brakes sorted, then bleed the brakes. Start from the passenger rear, drivers rear, then pass front, then drivers front. Make sure you flush all the old fluid out of the system. Some like to use a different-colored fluid each time they change it so they can tell when the old stuff is gone and the new stuff has taken its place. IF you do this, just make sure the two fluids are compatible chemically or else you can have a bunch of new problems on your hands. Once you've got it all back together, it usually takes about 500 miles for the brakes to fully "seat," so don't go out and "test" them right away (oh, officer! see, i just got this new carburetor and i was just trying to test it..... ;p). Other than that, enjoy the new stopping power!
  42. 10 points
    To all my 02er friends, My wife and I would like to thank every one of you for your support through a very trying year. Having been through this 15 years ago, I'm reluctant to say "we beat it", but we did get through it and I am very healthy right now, and should be for quite some time. Here's to 2018 and all my 02er friends far and near! Scott Sislane
  43. 10 points
    A few months ago, I wrote an article about repairing the heater valve bracket. You can see that article by clicking the link here. I really thank all of you for reading and all the responses received from the 2002 community. I had a tremendous request on the parts that I designed. Therefore, I decided to make some improvements to the bracket as well as additional parts that make rebuilding the heater box easier. I have gathered and made some special components/parts for those who want to rebuild the box themselves, starting with a new design heater valve bracket. I was fortunate enough to find a heater box top with an intact bracket. I was able to follow the shape of the original bracket, and because of that, the new design will be almost identical to the original bracket. The kit will also available with the other following items: • Heater valve lever with pinch bolt • Rubber grommets and delrin bushings (custom made) • Pre-cut foam kit for the flaps, heater core and perimeter box seals • Heater motor with a new fan blade Those who are interested in the parts can contact me at [email protected] This is the picture for the foam & grommet kit. On the left are foam strips for the perimeter box seal (furthest left), and then the heater core seal. In the upper middle area is the foam for the defroster and heater air flaps. Underneath that are two big rings for the heater core outlet. Below that are the flap grommets (the 7 small circular ones). Beneath that is the four relay shaft delrin bushings for the defroster and heater flaps. Beneath that is four spring clips that also go onto the flap shafts. To the right of that is the foam for the fresh air flap. To the furthest right is the foam for the outer box. Version 2 of my heater bracket reinforcement! I’ve updated it so that it looks very similar to the original bracket that was created from the factory. This time, the bracket is made in aluminum, making it lighter than the previous version. If your heater fan motor is seized or making noise, you don’t need to worry. I will show you how to get a replacement parts or you can get it from me. The heater fan motor is still available from Bosch, part # 0 130 007 002. The fan motor comes with a 6 mm shaft, or just slightly under ¼ “. If you buy a ready made fan blade with a ¼“ bore, it will be loose. The only option is to buy a plastic fan blade from Grainger, part # 5JLL6. It should be 5-9/16” Dia, CCW, with a 3/16” bore. This is the closest fan blade to the original aluminum fan blade, except that it is made of plastic and is lighter. Enlarge the bore with a 15/64” drill bit, but make sure that you drill it straight and on center, otherwise it will end up having a wobble (slight wobble is acceptable). I made a special jig to perform this job, since I do quite a bit of these repairs. Once the fan blade is done, press fit it onto the shaft with the clip facing away from the motor, and if you want, you can drop a little glue to make it more secure. You don’t need to balance it, since the blade is so light. It should provide you with plenty of CFM - I think it blows slightly stronger than the original motor. See the pictures below. These images show how I align the fan so that I can drill the fan perfectly centered. The grommets for the heater core outlets are very difficult to acquire. Even though the part is still being made by BMW, they are not available unless someone has old stock (NOS). Most of these grommets are dry, brittle, and torn after 30+ years. You can use sealer or putty to keep it together and seal the box from leaking out air, but it won’t look pretty. I found a replacement heater core outlet grommets (¾”x1/4”x1-⅝”) that were very similar/ acceptable to the original ones, and with slight modification, it would look like almost an oem part (see pictures). The rest of the parts are straightforward, except for the fan blade which was a little bit tricky to do. If you look at the pictures below. I put together a kit for what is necessary to rebuilt the heater box. This is the same kit I use to rebuild heater boxes. These are the grommets for the heater core outlets. The white area is where it is going to be trimmed - Without trimming this, the grommet won’t fit. It would need to be cut ⅜“ from the inside diameter. What you should get is this You should fit it onto the box with the flat side facing to the outside of the box, as shown. But from here, there is still some further modifications that need to be done. Unless you cut out a groove for the pipes, you will have a hard time putting the top cover onto the assembly. This is why I modified the grommets, grind the inside diameter following the outlet heater core pipes by using a die grinder or round file. It should be approximately ground at 30º - 45º. Both the top and bottom of the grommet will need to be cut, but on the opposite sides! This will help the top cover fit easier. After you grind out the groove, it should look like this: On the left side is the outer side of the box; the right image shows what it looks like on the inside. Note that both cuts are opposite from each other! This should make it a lot easier to install the top. Trust me on this. I hope this articles will help whoever wants to do their own Heater Box rebuild. If you need help, just email me on the address above. Keep yourself warm during winter season. Happy Motoring!
  44. 9 points
    Came for drama. Left wanting... t
  45. 9 points
    Vern is officially Vern again and for all intents and purposes he's done!
  46. 9 points
    An illustration I did, many years ago, when working for a vintage parts company. Hope this clarifies some things. The "deep" grilles were used on all European cars until the change-over to plastic grilles. On European cars, the glass lens of the headlight fit "flush" with the hoop of the grille for a really clean look. Requires all-European headlight assemblies to achieve. Did it on my last 2002. (see photo)
  47. 9 points
    Because there seems to be a lot of discussion here about merit without a lot of discussion about how an LSD actually works or what these inserts do... Firstly, what does a clutch-type LSD do? In (very) brief, it uses ramped clutch packs to apply pressure to your carrier side gears (the ones splined to your output flanges and thusly bolted to your axles), effectively "clutching" your axles to drive at the same rate. The more your axles spin at different rates, the more the clutches engage to grip both axles together and force them to spin at the same rate... The more one wheel spins, the more power is applied to the non-spinning wheel. How do these inserts differ from a stock-style clutch plate LSD? Position of the clutches! A stock LSD carrier is built so that the clutch plates are outside the side gears, applying friction between outer sections of the lsd carrier... which is a big, heavy machined part with large friction surfaces that is engineered to take the force of the clutches pushing against them. The side gears/output flanges/axles are splined into these clutch packs so they have the clutch force applied to them while the load of the clutches binding is taken up by the carrier, as it is designed to do: Now, how do these LSD inserts work? Well, they put the clutch packs inside the side gears, applying the clutch force against the faces of the differential side gears. These gears have a much smaller friction contact surface, and are relatively small-and-not beefy, and not at all engineered for pressure to be applied to them in such a manner. More to the point, there is not really any "set of clutches" with the insert, so any "drag" is created between the face of the gear and the metal of the insert, thus scraping the two metal surfaces against each other. CAVEAT: This particular LSD manufacturer seems to have improved on this slightly, by adding a single "friction shim" between the metal insert halves and the gear face. Nonetheless, this is still not a real clutch pack set, designed for wear as the friction/metal surfaces scrub against each other... Your gears are not designed to do this, and you will wear away the "hardened" metal in the contact area (or the face of your side gears). Shear stress is also applied to the center pin connecting your spider gears (which is actually what applies real ramped pressure to the "clutch" faces against the side gears as the carrier loads, not those little springs). The center pin in an open differential is not designed for this load. To quote Jack's Transmissions, a reputable manufacturer of FWD racing transmissions: "It is common for people to want to install a cheap LSD in their FWD trans for better traction. You get what you pay for, the cheap insert type LSDs are terrible, don’t work, and have a very high failure rate. The way the inserts work is they jam two steel plates in between the front diff spider gears. The plates are spring loaded and they put pressure up against the gears. Good idea, but the problem with this is you have a metal plate pushing against metal gears. Over time the gears will dig into the plate which will leave metal shavings in your trans. When they wear in far enough either the gears break (if you’re lucky) or the front diff pin can wear and break away from the diff housing with no where to go but through your trans case." CONCLUSION: Well, we do have one major advantage over the FWD guys who have typically tried these "LSD inserts" thus far... Our differentials are isolated from the rest of the drivetrain! So when your differential inevitably ends up with metal shavings through the gears and/or broken side gear chunks and a center pin floating around in there, you'll only grenade a cheap open differential, not your whole FWD transaxle. The engineer can see where these inserts go wrong; they are creating stresses the open diff carrier was not designed to carry, and apply those stresses to parts never designed to be stressed in that manner. They do so with parts designed to create metal-on-metal wear in a system full of tight clearances and bearings that do not like extra metal bits floating around. BUT... the realist can see that OEM clutch pack LSD's are getting expensive as hell (I remember regularly buying good used LSD's for $100-$150), and open differentials are cheap as hell, and we have no definitive test of just how quickly these inserts will wear out diff parts and break. The FWD world is full of horror stories, but also full of reports of people beating on these things with decent results. SO... Just be knowledgeable about what you are getting into. We as humans do shit all the time that we know is bad for us, but acceptably so. If you choose to install a cheap insert rather than a "real" LSD, you probably know in the back of your mind that it is not a real proper solution, but you also are probably doing so because you are not planning on racing, autocrossing, or otherwise beating the crap out of your car with that diff insert. You are probably planning on installing it yourself, and thus you are only risking a small amount of money and your own time if/when the thing grenades. But if you are planning to buy one and pay somebody like me to install it... Well, for the money it would take to pay for your diff to be removed, disassembled, LSD bought and installed, and diff reinstalled (and then the whole process repeated again later when the differential insert breaks off some side gear teeth and it all implodes), well, you can probably afford to suck it up and get a "real" (OEM or Quaife) LSD. Sorry for the long rant. Don't let me talk you out of trying the insert (don't let me talk you out of a cheap eBay turbo either!), but please go into it understanding what the hell it is actually doing and what you are risking. In this case, maybe the risk is moderate enough (and self-contained enough) to be worthwhile. Or maybe it isn't. But it is important to discuss these things in more depth than just "hey look it's cheap on eBay".
  48. 9 points
    It's been a while (the old topic was closed), but I wanted to give an update! First. thank you to everyone that offered up their cars for me to use for my wedding photos! My own 2002 couldn't make the trip from Michigan to Cali, and I really wanted one for my photos. A big shout out to the Bay Area FAQ community for being so cool about offering up your cars, for pretty much nothing in return! @Mad1602 was suuuper cool and let me use his sweet ride for my wedding photos. His car was PERFECT - it even matched the colors for my bridesmaid's dresses! Below is a photo of the owner, me, and my new hubby (and the car). I also did a painting of his car, as a little thank-you. A picture of the painting is also below! Check it out!
  49. 9 points
    Last month I was at SoCal Vintage and was talking to Bavarian Restoration (www.bavrest.com) about their gauge rebuilding services. He had one on display and I bought that one...it needed a few things and I shipped it back to him and after a few weeks it arrived today. I installed it and I am happy to say it looks AMAZING. It has a lot of little touches, red needle painting on al gauges, red LEDS (which matches my VDO gauges and radio), buffed and polished glass which makes it seem like there is no glass there at times, polished aluminum gauge trim rings, aluminum painted gauge surrounds, gauge pod redone in matte black instead of the faux wood grain, which I prefer for my car. They also replaced the gears so I have a working odometer for the first time! When I first got it the lighting around the gauges was uneven and he added more LEDS around the gauges for brighter and more even lighting. Here are some pics....I think I am going to ship him my clock which is from an e36 for the LED retrofit and the needle painting.
  50. 9 points
    This write-up was revised on 8 Aug 2013. The photos in the original post were lost due to me fiddling around on Photobucket and breaking the links. I tried to recover most of what was originally there but some photos have escaped me. The suspension can be rehabbed in pieces or completely. Defining "completely" is scetchy. Completely can mean all of the bushings, brake components plus shock and strut components. Let's tackle the suspension bushings first. This is not a technical writing but a guide or forewarning of what to expect. There may be ways to rehab the suspension in the car but I will address the procedure as if the suspension is out of the car. Boy I feel inadequate to do this. The front suspension rehab consists of replacing the bushing in the frame, front axle support and tension rod, at the very front of the car, sway bar bushes, control arm bushing or the control arm itself, ball joints and idler arm bushings Parts from a Paul Wegweiser list from years ago. Part numbers need verified, seems like BMW changes them often. 31 12 2 614 006 lower control arm (includes bushings) 31 13 1 108 439 ball joint (KIT) 32 21 1 113 178 safety bolt for steering arm to strut, each 31 13 1 108 373 front subframe bushing (std 2 per car) 31 13 1 108 374 front subframe bushing (turbo 2 per car) 32 21 1 115 116 idler arm bushings (2 per car) Idler arm bushings. I believe the control arm needs removing before you can rehab the idler arm. Remove the cotter pin and the castlenut, pop off the metal cap and persuade the idler arm to move down through the bushings. Remove the old bushing from the idler arm housing or off of the idler arm itself. It may require using punches, drifts or grabbing and twisting with vice grips. To reinstall, place the new lower bush on the idler arm and the upper one in the housing. Insert the idler arm in the housing and through the upper bush. I need to verify if lubrication is needed. Place the metal cap on and the castle nut, torque to spec. 58-72 lb-ft Bushing at front axle support and tension rod You can use the stock, turbo or urethane bushing. The black one is the turbo. Red is the urethane. This is a tired bushing and needs replaced. This is a home made bushing tool. It is a 1 1/2 inch PVC coupler cut in half, all thread and a series of washers. The concept is the washer that is bigger than the coupler has a washer up against it, the washers on the other end are the size of the bushing or a scooch smaller in diameter. As you tighten the nut against the large washer, the all thread and smaller washers pull the bushing through the PVC. The job of the piece of the PVC on the side being pulled through, keeps the bushing from "bunching up" before it pulls through the metal housing. I had to place a wrench between the two pieces of PVC to keep them straight. I am sure there is a more sophisticated way to do this. Use this tool to remove and install new rubber bushes. Urethane are split and install without a tool.Urethane bushes need lubed to reduce squeaking. Sway bar bushes are pretty straight forward, just decide if you will use stock or urethane. Use hex cap bolts instead of hex head bolts. It is difficult to get a wrench or socket on the bolt head. Socket head bolts work the best. You can see the socket head bolts in the picture below. End Links I used Spicer Teflon bushing for the end links. Urethane is readily available too. I do not like the the way I did the bolts above. I like the threads up. Saves them from getting buggered up from the road. Control Arms There is a way to replace the inner and outer control arm bushes, they are different sizes and some suppliers have a hard time getting this straight so be careful if you order them. However, there is a lot to be said for just replacing the control arm. Inspect your old one and if it is bent from POs poor choice of a lifting point or if your not into removing the old bushes, just purchase the control arm and it comes with new bushes. I found this link (thanks to Jerry, Pinepig and Zenon) with great instructions on replacing the control arm bushing. http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,viewtopic/t,283064/highlight,/ The pictures below may help you get the spacers and washers in the proper order in case you did not document this well when it was disassembled. Ball Joints I failed to get good photos of the ball joint replacement. One of the big challenges is getting the bolt that holds the ball joint to the pitman arm off. Use your best and biggest tools to get it loose. On reassembly, fill the cavity with grease to make it easier on your son when he has to replace it again in thirty years. Uncle CD says all mating surfaces should be clean metal, no paint or powder coating Be diligent in using the right grade of bolts. New ball joint kits come with the correct hardware. Grade 8.8. When you attach the struts to the pitman arms, most will recommend to use the bolts with the nut with the hole in so all three bolts can be safety wired together part number 32 21 1 113 178. Some will make an argument that high grade bolts with locktite is safe. BMW recommends the safety type bolts and safety wire. I have done it both ways. Completed front suspension. Struts One of the harder parts in replacing the strut inserts is deciding which ones to use, Bilstein HDs or Sports, Boge, Koni, etc. Once you decide, disassemble the strut assembly using safe spring compressors. Most strut inserts have a socket head on the end of the strut so you can hold it while you spin the Nyloc nut loose. You may find some poo inside the strut tube. Many stories on what it is and why it is there. No need to replace whatever it was. Be careful trying to coat the inside of the tube with paint or POR-15. It can make things too tight for the insert to go back in. Reassemble and use new strut bushing if you need them. I believe the ones for the e-21 (GUIDE SUPPORT M8X18 31 33 1 110 195) have shorter studs and make the top of your inner fenders look tidier. Lube the strut bushing bearing. I like that good red grease for this. This is a shot of the washers and cups for the strut bearing and shock assembly, thanks to someone who posted this on the FAQ, The photos below is my youngest son, Revvin Evan, doing the safety wire for me. He does all the connectors on his bike so he is pretty good at this. Safety wire is available at speed shops, bike shops, JEGS, Summit etc. The safety wire tool makes spinning the wire easy. When you install the struts on the pitman arms, use new safety bolts and safety wire. Wrap the safety wire so it traps the bolts and does not let it turn. Shortened Springs Shortened or shorter springs want to move from the rubber pads when the car is jacked up. To seat them properly involves putting your hands around the springs when the car is lowered. To eliminate this, the springs can be wired to the upper metal cap. Drill a hole in the cap and use a stainless steel wire to catch the upper coil on the spring and the spring will stay in place when the car is jacked up. The words below are from Creighton Demeresk. His post and illustrative diagrams can be see at: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/page,viewtopic/topic_view,threads/p,365939/t,282258/ go with the .028" wire and/or 0.032" buy from any Racers Supply on line Safety Wiring Techniques Safety wiring is not mysterious or difficult. It really only takes some time and practice, and will soon become second-nature for you at the track. Safety wiring should always be done to keep bolts or nuts from backing out. That means always wire in the direction that will tighten the bolt. Safety wiring is also done to prevent any part that does come loose from falling onto the track and causing damage to another bike or rider. It never hurts to safety wire any critical part of your bike, such as controls, beyond the requirements in the rulebook. Now that you know what you need to safety wire, you're probably wondering how to do it. First, go out and get the following items: Safety wire pliers. Just buy a pair just like the ones in the picture. These are available at larger bike shops, racing supply companies, and even JC Whitney. Some people might suggest that you can use a "twirl tool" or a pair of needle-nose pliers, but you will be much happier with a pair of real safety wire pliers. Borrow a pair if you must. A can of stainless steel safety wire. Some racers use ½ to a full pound can per season. The best overall size to buy is .032" diameter, although having a can of .028" and some .050" can be handy for tight spaces or damage repair. Safety wire is available at most motorcycle shops. A variable speed drill and a dozen 1/16" drill bits. If you have access to a drill press, that can make the job faster. The tiny drill bits will only last 4 to 6 bolts. They will break often, even if you're careful, and dull quickly. Pick up a few 3/32" bits also. Be sure to keep the bit lubricated while drilling. How to drill Except for a few places on your bike where bolts are already drilled for a cotter pin, the nuts and bolts on your bike will have to be drilled before they can be wired. There are various ways to do this. It is best to use a drill press and a small vice to hold the fastener or part. Whether you have a press or a hand drill, here are some tips. First, go easy with those little drill bits. It takes very little force to break one. Lubricate the drill bit periodically with light oil. This helps it cut faster and also cools the bit. When the bit is about to clear the far side of the item you need to be careful that you don't snap the bit. Many nuts and bolts are surface hardened and that last section takes the longest. Throw out a drill bit when it gets dull. Most bolts can be drilled straight through the hexagonal head, as in the first figure. Drill from flat to flat, and keep the hole centered. For the studs of some mounting bolts where a portion of the threads protrude, you might opt to drill through the shaft and wire in the fashion of the cotter pin found in most rear axles. If you do this, put a nut on the bolt first so that you can clean up the threads by taking the nut off. Banjo bolts (used on brake and oil lines) are hollow and cannot be drilled straight through. These must be corner drilled, as shown in the next figure. Hexagonal nuts are drilled across one of the corners. This is a three step process. The drawing shows the drill bit pointed at the flat of the nut. Drill straight in until the bit is in about 1/16 inch. Then turn the nut in the vice about 15 degrees. Continue drilling until the bit is in about 1/8 inch. Finally, turn the piece again so that you can drill all the way through the corner. Allen head bolts may be drilled through either one or both sides. Be sure to drill though the flats of the allen or you will weaken the grip offered the allen wrench. Drilling through both sides will make wiring the bolt easier. How to wire Once you have the nuts and bolts drilled and reinstalled, you need to wire them in place. You should first ensure that everything is torqued properly. Over-torquing a fastener will weaken the threads, and repeated over-torquing can lead to failure. Your bike's manual will have the torque and thread treatment specifications for each fastener. If appropriate, loctite or lubricate the threads first. You then need to wire the item as an insurance procedure. When wiring nuts or bolts, there are several techniques used. The first is to wire the nut or bolt to a convenient fixed object, such as the frame or a fork tube. Another common technique is to wire two or more fasteners together so that none of the fasteners can back off. A third approach is to wire the head of a bolt to the nut on the other end. The figures show the first two of these techniques. Most drain or fill plugs will be wired to a frame member or engine part. Brake caliper nuts and bolts are usually wired together. Fork pinch bolts can be wired together or to a fixed item. A muffler mounting bolt is usually wired to its own nut. The figure on the left shows a nut wired to a fixed member. It is best to start by looping the wire around the member and twisting the wire together. Continue twisting until the twisted part reaches just short of the nut or bolt. Thread one piece of the wire through the hole on the nut or bolt. Pull the wire tight and then continue twisting the wires together. Leave about 1/2 inch of twisted wire and cut off the rest. Throw the ends in the garbage can immediately. Tuck the end around so that you can't cut yourself on it. Tension should be kept on the nut or bolt in the tightening direction. The diagrams here show the wire in a loose fashion so that you can see the idea. Your completed wiring should be neat and tight. Always discard your excess wire in a trash can. Those little pieces of wire can flatten a tire in no time. Always use caution when working with safety wire. The ends are very sharp and can easily cut your fingers. When you have finished wiring a nut or bolt, bend the end of the wire so that it doesn't protrude and create a hazard. This figure shows two nuts wired together. The procedure is similar to wiring to a fixed object. Loop the wire through the hole of one of the nuts (or bolts). Twist the wire and maintain tension on the wire in the tightening direction of the nut. Continue twisting until the twisted wire reaches just short of the hole for the second nut and wire that nut. The wire should pass between the nuts to maintain tension on both nuts when the job is done. This process may be continued to wire additional nuts in succession, such as an oil filter cover, sprocket nuts, or water pump. If your bike has a spin-on type oil filter, it can be wired in place by placing a hose clamp around the filter, then running a piece of safety wire from the clamp to the frame or another fixed object. Another area which requires special techniques is fuel and water lines. You can use the spring loaded clips that come stock on most bikes, or use small hose clamps. If you use safety wire, be careful because you can cut through the hose by using too much tension. Small zip ties will also work. Water lines are usually clamped with standard hose clamps. One precaution you can take is to thread same safety wire through the slot on the screw of the clamp, then attach the wire to the clamp. This will keep the hose clamp from loosening. Rear Suspension The car needs supported some place other than the usual place on the subframe. I run a 4x4 across the car in front of what BMW calls the Push Rod (these are the bars that connect the sub-frame to the body) and set that 4x4s on jack stands. Disconnect the flexible brake lines and curse the nastiness of brake fluid that goes everywhere but in the pan. Disconnect the emergency brake cables, shocks, differential support bracket, two large nuts that connect the suspension to the body, support bars and the driveshaft. You may find disconnecting the shocks easier from the trunk. On most shocks there is a allen socket in the top of the shock, you can place a box end wrench around the nut on the top of the shock, hold the shock securely with the allen wrench and loosen the 17mm (guessing) nut on top of the shock, that is usually a nyloc nut. Disconnect the drive shaft with a friend. Engage the parking brake, break loose one of the nuts on the drive shaft at the differential. Have your friend release the brake, rotate the shaft, engage the brake, break loose the next nut, so on and so on. By the way, after you have done this once, you will find a way to put a set of flex head gear wrenches in your tool box. Working these nuts is worth the price of these wrenches. Lowering the suspension justs involves placing a floor jack under the differential and lowering it slowly while balancing everything. The spring will just fall out as you lower the suspension. Going at it this way allows you to refresh the brake fluid and the flexible brake lines. Tired rear suspensions look like this. Again, this parts list is old, one I got from Paul Wegweiser years ago. Part numbers need verified, seems like BMW changes them often. 33 33 1 103 926 rear sub-frame mounts (up to 1974) 33 33 1 113 342 left rear sub-frame mount (1974 on) 33 33 1 113 343 right rear sub-frame mount (1974 on) 33 17 1 104 266 diff bushing inserts only 33 32 9 061 945 trailing arm bushing set (4 bushings total) As a note, install the end of the flex line that attaches to the bottom of the car first, even before the sub-frame is placed. For some reason BMW placed that connection just above the rear sub-frame and it is difficult to get to once the sub-frame is in place. Inside the sub-frame is a captive nut like thing that holds the hex head thing on the flexible brake line. Sway Bar Link Bushes As with the front sway bar link bushings, these are pretty straight forward. Just decide on what you want, stock, urethane or teflon. Teflon Urethane Bearings and Races Even though replacing the bearing races and seals are not covered in this post, one method of pulling the hubs is shown along with the spacers inside the rear hubs. Trailing Arm Bushings Removing the trailing arm bushing is accomplished in several ways. One way is to stink up the place and burn the rubber out and then remove the steel sleeve. The way shown here is using a BMW bushing removal tool. A homemade tool with PVC, washers and all thread works too. Once you know how to use the tool to remove and insert the bushes, it is an easy process. Oldest son using a bearing and race set to set the races/bearings Upper Shock Bushings Not a big deal to replace these. Just find a way to remove the old ones, prising with a screw driver works, them just lubricate with your favorite soap or glycerin and push them in from the top. Rear Carrier Bushings The rear carrier bushings come in a "bolt-on" unit. To replace, just unbolt the old unit and re-bolt the new unit on. Just be aware, the units for round and square light cars are different. Note: Insert the bolts in the bushing unit then insert the bolts through the sub-frame. The bolts can not be inserted if you place the bushing unit flush against the sub-frame. Nobbs go up! The rear carrier is different for earlier and later cars, be careful ordering parts. The rear carrier bushes can not be flipped on early cars. Differential Carrier Bushings BMW used to offer the carrier and the bushings as one unit, now they only offer the bushings. To replace these, I had them pressed out and the new ones pressed in with a press. Rear - After

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