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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/24/2019 in Posts

  1. 14 points
    Another one of our own has become a little more famous. See if we can make him blush @pichos1
  2. 13 points
    Found these on eBay a few weeks ago. I was away on vacation so I had to ask the seller to hold off on shipping, but they arrived safely today.
  3. 12 points
    Chehalis, Washington. May 18, 2002. I was able to pull this from my VHS and old camera. We were living in Corvallis, Oregon at the time and this was by far the largest number of '02s I had ever seen. Such a great event.The Famous David Lumbra from '2002 Restorations in Eugene, Oregon had two beautiful cars on the lawn. Great memories!! May 18 2002festwest.mp4
  4. 8 points
    I love that moment when you’re working on something in your garage, and just catch her out of the corner of your eye. Pure magic...
  5. 8 points
    Super excited to have my first 2002 at my house and ready to enjoy for the summer! Big shoutout to everyone who let me know absolutely everything that is wrong with it on the NOT-rebodied 1974 tii thread so I can start plugging away, and thanks to Andy and Ryan for an awesome purchasing experience.
  6. 7 points
    Some of you must have known Bob if you live in the greater LA area. Sadly he passed away suddenly this March. Him and his wife were planning on moving before the sudden occurrence, so Bob had a lot of '02 parts we picked up that he was planning on selling, and it gave us a chance to talk to his wife for a bit. We know its a bit early but this year's Socal Vintage meet falls on Bob and Cheri's anniversary so Cheri wanted to attend the event and do a kind of caravan there in memory of Bob. She will be driving Bob's car from Little Rock near Palmdale. Not sure how many of you would be coming from that way, but she did mention there was one other '02 owner that she knew who lives in Little Rock. If you are interested PM us and we'll get you in touch with her. If you can't drive there with her but will attend and you knew Bob make sure you stop by and say hey, his car is pictured below. We post this also because she mentioned she want's to get in touch with Bob's friends and she will need a mechanic to perform regular maintenance on the car. And we weren't sure if she knows about this website or not.
  7. 6 points
  8. 5 points
    So? Which one of you is going to go pick it up, put a nose on it, then slap it on BAT for 45k?
  9. 5 points
    There is usually a brass counter weight held on by one of those two nylon posts that transect that brass center piece. I can't tell from the pic if it is still attached. The counter weight might be at the bottom of your instrument cluster housing along with the pointer. Those posts are part of the needle and hold the black cap on the center piece and the counter weight. You'll need to reattach the counter weight when you glue it all back together. There is also a slight spring pre-load on the pointer so you'll need to account for that before gluing it all up. The pointer should rest solidly against the stop pin at the bottom of the gauge being held there by the internal spring.
  10. 4 points
  11. 4 points
    I cannot recommend a shop, but I can recommend a timing light! The Innova 5568 will pay for itself in no time (~$100 online-delivered), compared to paying someone to tune it. If you are using points and condenser, the 5568 also has a built in dwell meter to allow you to dial in the points gap; which you adjust prior to setting the timing. It has a tachometer and a volt meter as well. The neat thing about that light is that it has the variable advance feature, which allows you to assess the way the distributor is advancing the spark. Some people prefer to install a PerTronix or HotSpark, to avoid having to set/maintain the dwell and that keeps you from having to adjust the timing as often. As points wear, the dwell angle changes and that will affect the timing. Typically, you adjust the timing to accommodate the changing dwell, as long as it remains within the acceptable range. I think setting points and adjusting timing are very rewarding exercises, but to others they are a pain in the butt and they'd rather pay someone else. That's up to you, of course; so you can either stay on course and locate a shop, or purchase that light and check back in here if you are in need of a tutorial. Tom PS maybe change the title of this thread to "near Shreveport, LA" instead of "nearby"
  12. 4 points
    Well lads these are ready to go. They should be plenty high resolution for printing. If @steve k. likes them then they are ready on my end. I don't anticipate further changes.
  13. 4 points
    Although I don’t understand why, it is difficult to get people to spend 30 seconds obtaining a BMW Group Archives report on their car and then 3 minutes putting that data and a few relevant photos in a registry. 😯 Nonetheless, we have made measurable progress with the excellent new registry that Steve K. created for bmw2002faq.com. I would like us do everything possible to focus our efforts on the registry on bmw2002faq.com. Anything that sends us to an alternative registry should be avoided. Let’s build our registry! An email with your car’s VIN sent to [email protected], requesting their data, will get you the key elements to make a complete registry entry. There is no charge whatsoever for that BMW Group Archives data. You generally receive a reply within two business days. Thanks and regards, Steve
  14. 3 points
    Steve Kouracos restored my Ragno's. He did a beautiful job. Steve K. believes that Cromodora’s and Campagnolo’s came from their factories with a slightly grayer (stated differently, less silver) paint than the silver we commonly find on other brands of alloy and steel rims. I told him to restore mine to whatever he thought was the factory color. Regards, Steve C.
  15. 3 points
    The Weber 34ICH is too small for either a 1600 or a 2002. It has a very small 34mm throttle body, which is way too small for our cars. In comparison the single barrel Solex 38-40PDSI used on the 1600s and 2002s has a 38mm throttle body on the 1600 version and a 40mm throttle body on the 2002 version. The Weber 34ICH is more tailored for a small engine in the 1,000cc-1,300cc size. I've tried the 34ICH on my 69 1600, and it works great at idle, but the lack of performance in comparison to the stock carb is very noticeable. In your case, you probably have a clogged or defective idle jet. The Weber 32/36 is also problematic on the 1600 and less so on the 2002. I've also tried this route with mixed results. First of all you need to find a manifold from an e21 1600cc 316. And, once you get that sorted out, you need to replace the jets on the 32/36, as your car will fall flat on its face once you depress the accelerator. It will idle great, but the stock out of the box jets on the 32/36 will not work on the 1600 due to an extremely lean condition. They work on the 2002, though, but they are not ideal for that motor either. It's just too much air for the 1600. So, you need to go up on the fuel jets and come down on the air jets for both. primary and secondary. On the primary you will need to go up from the 135 main fuel to about 150 or 155. And, you'll need to get the main air on the primary down in the 160 or 165 range. A similar adjustment is needed for the secondary. This is as what I had to do to get rid of al the stumbling, but my mpg suffered as I only got about 17mpg -19mpg. In the end, I settled for a properly functioning original Solex 38-40PDSI. But, on most 50+ year old single barrel Solex carbs, the throttle shafts are sloppy leading to poor idling. You can sort out the problems with the original Solex single barrel, but you will need the assistance of a carb shop, or you can start fishing for the parts yourself. Slavs
  16. 3 points
    Try it in your lawn mower, chain saw, and snow blower. That's where I find it to be a corrosive clogging agent. t
  17. 3 points
    Good morning 2002 fanatics I have just become the new custodian of 4222049 which has been sitting under a tree in CT for the last 9 years. The prior owner wanted to get rid of it and in a fit of enthusiasm I grabbed it - the power of having an empty garage bay, amongst other things! Anyway the car seems pretty complete as far as bits go but does have a fair amount of rust in the frame rails - will have to get her on jacks to really look at the floor pan etc. Job 1 will be to get fluids changed and then see if the motor turns by hand, after that will be going through each system remove, repair replace as needed. At this stage I have the sense to retain as much of the original body and trim as possible, patina, warts and all - we will see how that works out over the next months! One good first sign was that a/ the tires took and held air! and b/ she rolled off the flatbed into the garage so the wheels broke free. So - Blunttech and Pelican parts accounts are open, shop manuals in hand, this page and many others bookmarked so off we go. Searching the FAQ before posting is noted but I know I will have specific questions and very much look forward to absorbing the collective wisdom that is in this forum.
  18. 3 points
    This was a once in a life time deal. I validate your feelings
  19. 3 points
    Congrats. Those bumpers look like Bubbas lower lip in Forest Gump.
  20. 3 points
    For any confidence that quote can be met, you need to know if the shop has replaced them on an 2002 before or you either will get a hack job or an over-run on cost.
  21. 3 points
    And here is more subtle edition for owners of other Neue Klasse vehicles
  22. 2 points
  23. 2 points
    I was thinking the same thing. I bought it as an ugly runner that someone definitely dumped a bottle of bleach into - I had assumed due to some sort of water leak / mold issue. This pretty much confirms that. What once was Taiga shall return to Taiga! On top of aerosol flat blacking the exterior the previous owner also reupholstered the interior bright red and bondo'd up all the trim holes. There will be much restoration in this project...
  24. 2 points
    If your donor roof has a sunroof be careful adding reinforcement in the A pillar as the sunroof drains need to go down the pillar and there's not much room to do it.
  25. 2 points
    Hmm, was this your old best friend?
  26. 2 points
    That looks like the car owned by the proprietors of fourtilfour in Old town Scottsdale. Last I saw it, it was fairly clean, but I think they're still stuck in the world of Porsche values to ask that much dough. They just drove a 912 from Peking to Paris. Maybe they're selling this to pay their bills from that trip.
  27. 2 points
    My swap and presence on the forum has been on hiatus for a few years until about 2 weeks ago. Finally got around figuring out my wiring issues and got her fired off over the weekend. Now I can clean up all the wiring and get everything tucked away.
  28. 2 points
    I found this article about tire degradation, https://www.liveabout.com/the-science-of-tire-aging-3234377 It explains that the reason tires go bad is the oxidation, reaction with oxygen, of the rubber and all the adhesives. Temperature and usage can change the rate at which oxidation happens though. But unused tires can be just as bad or even worse regardless of storage or condition from visual inspection if they are old enough. It also has some different groups reccomendations. In 1989, ADAC, Germany’s consumer advocacy group concluded: “Even tires that are just six years old – though they appear to be brand new – can present a safety risk. Tire experts even say that if they are not used, indeed, tires age more quickly.” In 1990, vehicle manufacturers including BMW, Audi, Volkswagen, Toyota, Mercedes-Benz, Nissan, and GM Europe, among others, included in the owner's manual warnings that tires older than six years should only be used in an emergency and replaced as soon as possible. The British Rubber Manufacturer's Association noted: “BRMA members strongly recommend that unused tires should not be put into service if they are over 6 years old and that all tires should be replaced 10 years from the date of their manufacture.” In 2005, Ford, DaimlerChrysler, and Bridgestone/Firestone added warnings that tires should be inspected at 5 years and replaced after 10. Michelin and Continental issued similar bulletins in 2006. Hankook did so in 2009. And also the NHTSA found tires six years and older were 84 percent of tire failure insurance claims, and then testing confirmed six years, and also interestingly that "Results indicated a strong correlation to the speed rating of the tire, with the higher speed rated tires losing the least capability with increasing age and mileage.” So if they're less than six years from manufacture they should be safe, if they're less than ten years they could be safe... or not... I'm probably going to stop driving my 944. For the date I think its usually only marked on one side of the tire, this example one would be the 26th week of 2013
  29. 2 points
    If it "hurts your soul" for you to trash them there's really only one course of action isn't there? Recommend you get them spin balanced before running them.
  30. 2 points
  31. 2 points
  32. 2 points
  33. 2 points
    I find a block typically requires between 3 and 6 thou (0.003 - 0.006”) to clean up the deck (of course, we can’t predict what the OP’s block needs, and/or whether it’s been decked before). The optional 1.8 mm head gasket is (roughly) 0.011” thicker than the stock unit. Whether and how much head has been surfaced also a consideration, as already mentioned. -KB
  34. 2 points
    Hi everyone! I’m a bit of a lurker on this forum, but wanted to make a quick post about some 2002 prints I have for sale. The original painting has sold, but these are $27 shipped in the US. 8.5x11” on 110lb paper. I’ll check messages here, but it’ll be best to shoot me an email to order one - [email protected] I also do commissions for anyone interested. And for those of you who bought some 2002 holiday cards last year.. keep your eyes out for my post in October/November! I’ll be doing a new design this year. Thank you! -Emily
  35. 2 points
    +1 Rear sidemarkers suggest a 1969 model, but front sidemarkers are not present, so perhaps the rears were added — that would be odd. More likely, fronts were stripped because they were reflectors and rears were retained because they were lights. Maybe it’s an early 1969 manufactured in very late 1968? Steering wheel hub is distinctively “1968 style” but I honestly don’t know if those were phased out in September 1968, with the introduction of the 1969 model — it might have been a more typical “gradual” phase out. A VIN would help figure out what model year this car is! I’m guessing originally Sahara, based on seller’s reference to beige. Front seats are 1975-76, as seller alluded to. Door cards are Tobacco round taillight examples, so maybe they’re original, or maybe not (I believe Tobacco replaced Chocolate Brown early in the 1968 calendar year, since I’ve seen very early — March 1968 — 2002’s with factory Chocolate Brown interiors). If truly rust free, fabulous, but an ambitious price, nonetheless, for a mediocrely-repainted 1600-2 with non-matching front seats. Attached: March 1968 U.S.-market 1600 sales brochure. Check out those new-for-‘68 safety features! 😉 Regards, Steve
  36. 2 points
    I grew up in Iowa. Cornfields at the edge of my backyard when I was little. Back when these cars were new! I go out of my way to buy ethanol free gasoline for not much more money than the tainted kind. More BTUs, as Mike pointed out. More HorsePower. Better Mileage. It smells better too. As I understand it, with real gasoline water sits on the bottom. With corny gas it blends in. Watery gas must have even fewer BTUs swimming around in it. How watery is it when you buy it? I notice a difference in how my car idles and pulls, depending on the fuel that I use. I've driven away from a 10% pump disappointed in the effect and promised myself to go back to the clean gas next fill up. Just filled it today, as a matter of fact. Delicious 87 Octane Pure Gasoline. The differences are subtle, when it comes to noticing them. It'd be fun to put a T in the fuel line and switch back and forth, between the car's tank and another one for comparison. (Sort of like the switch I have to turn the distributor pod's vacuum signal off and on). Back to the original topic, what are these additives supposed to be doing? Drying out watery gasoline? I thought they allowed more water to be dissolved into the gas, so it will be burned up, instead of pooling and causing the problems Jimk mentions. Once Ethanolized Gas has reached the saturation limit, it will allow water to pool under it as well, right? Then you pour in one of those two additives, so it can absorb even more? IMHO, corn is for tortillas, not engines. (what's that spell?) Mmmmm masa
  37. 2 points
    I've noticed several 02's about with old BMW 2002 Registry sticker. Though the registry still exists, maintained, it appears, by this site, the sticker is no longer available, and even if it was, looks somewhat dated. Would guys have interest in the below, which I have designed? I wanted something relatively straightforward so it will look good on all of our cars. The design is the Bavarian flag and a checkered flag, mirrored across the center axis. If you folks like this then either the site can have the design at no charge or, with permission, I could sell them here at cost.
  38. 2 points
  39. 2 points
    Oops. I laughed. But that’s probably exactly what will happen... 😯 Regards, Steve
  40. 2 points
    https://www.pure-gas.org that have an app to.
  41. 2 points
    My favourite wheels of all time! well one of... ok then..... they're very nice 🙄
  42. 2 points
  43. 2 points
    Stella looked good in that pic! I had picked up that roof rack from Le Tran for Rudy as he was passing through Austin and had to get a few picks before I delivered it to Rudy down in Houston. Here’s another pic.
  44. 2 points
    Bravo, the most beautiful wheels you can get. Ebay you say?
  45. 2 points
    The current Seller bought it in May for $6k or less, and immediately (May) tried to flip it for $11,500. So much for Runs and drives great just don't use it enough.
  46. 2 points
    Ok I changed my mind. After talking with Blunt I'm goin with a new unit. I don't trust the prior owner(s) with replacement parts. The master on there can go in the spare parts boxes. https://www.blunttech.com/shop/replacement-parts/brake/brake-hydraulic/1410btkt
  47. 2 points
    @steve k. BMW 2002 FAQ is linked at the bottom of bmw2002register.com. I assumed they were affiliated, if that’s not the case I will update the badges to reference only bmw2002faq.com
  48. 2 points
    I recommend using marine type cables instead of welding or other "home use" cable typically found at big box hardware stores. The marine cables are more flexible for routing thru the chassis. You can find this type along with suitable terminal ends at West Marine stores.
  49. 2 points
    If you’re so inclined, a 2002 mirror could be made to work! Bob
  50. 2 points
    FYI - Just swung by the local Pick-n-Pull and grabbed the positive cable to the trunk, negative cable, terminal block, and positive cable from block to starter from an E46 for FOUR DOLLARS. Yes, $4! That also included a Bosch coil from a Volvo. Ok, ok, $6. I had to pay $2 to get in. Took about 15min to pull it. I just chopped the starter cable because it was way longer than I needed and I didn't feel like skinning my knuckles.


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