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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/21/2019 in Blog Entries

  1. 5 points
    Available as a “limited offering” of 50 serial numbered units. The very first KoogleWerks BMW M10 valve cover. Designed, cast, machined and finished right here in California. Features include recessed “tii style” 5/8” crankcase breather vent with internal baffle height clearance for ARP head studs (& baffled oil fill to reduce pressure/seepage due to “oil fling”) Internal ribs for strength and weight reduction. (just like OEM part, unlike any other aftermarket part) 2+ lbs lighter than other (Heidegger) aftermarket covers. Shown in “wrinkle black” with brushed fins and lettering. a “logo delete” option is also available. http://www.kooglewerks.com/products/cast-aluminum-bmw-2002-valve-cover er
  2. 3 points
    It seemed worse in the front vs. the rear on the passenger side.
  3. 3 points
    More pics of the work on the Driver's side of the car. We thought this would be the worst side, but that wasn't entirely accurate. The rockers were pinched-welded as you can see, like the factory. Real goal was preserve the car, not restore it.
  4. 2 points
    We replaced the spare tire well, as it was rusting. We bought the replacement from Wolf. They sprayed the color and shutz in the way the factory did. Thanks for the tip from Andrew Wilson on that.
  5. 2 points
    I've been able to tackle some projects I've been wanting to do since the car got hit including wrapping the e21 steering wheel in new leather. I love the look leather steering wheels that have a bit of age to them so thats what I was going for. This turned into quite the task but im happy with the outcome. I found the leather scrap at local upholstery shop, dyed it a dark brown, and hand stitched it. Let me know what you think.
  6. 2 points
    Reggie's used the same DuPont paint that was used in the early '90s. They used the door to create the match, since they could see it from all angles, and get good light on it. The paint match turned out pretty nice, I have to say. They did a great job. And I didn't have to spring for a full repaint. Here's the various coatings, etc, that were used, from an email from Reggie: Behind and in-between metal that will no longer be accessible, we use a weld-through primer, which is basically liquid zinc. On your pinch welds, we use a Wurth body panel adhesive along with the pinch welding technique, so that all of the space between pinch welds is sealed (and technically stronger) - This is likely similar to the glue that holds the roof on your M3. On bare metal that we have access to, we will do a 3-step POR-15 application (3-steps being, clean/degrease/etch, then paint) In cavities that we don’t have access to, we will use that Eastwood internal frame coating. We will apply 3M or Wurth seam sealer around all weld seams and flanged joints. On the texture, we use a Wurth product with a gun that is made by them specifically to shoot this coating. (This is the body shutz he's referring to here.)
  7. 2 points
    It all started with a two rust bubbles. One on the bottom of the passenger door, and a more serious one on the bottom of the driver's side rocker. That one was the outer rocker beginning to rust through. While I have owned the car since 1987, it was a daily driver before that. So probably a good 17 years as a well-cared for daily driver. So when I bought it in '87 I knew it was fairly solid, but not perfect, in terms of the condition of the body. And over the years, trips to Vintage and PVGP had certainly exposed it to a couple of full-on Midwestern downpours. So it was time to do something, before the car got much worse. I had preserved it one other time in its history, so this was the second go-round. The paint from '92 was still in good condition, and I really didn't want to paint the entire car. I knew if I did, I would find myself creating reasons not to drive it. And really, the best part of having it is driving it. I didn't want to paint myself into a corner (rimshot). Here are a few shots of it before the work started. (Whoa what a trip down memory lane! These are from the last six years or so).
  8. 2 points
    So I am pretty sure that I am going with a MS3 Gold box, so the autotune function needs to be run by a computer so I integrated a Raspberry Pi 3 and a screen into my replacement center console plate. The Pi will run Tunerstudio, the prefered software for tuning the MS3 box. It will also run a nav app as well as perhaps some a/v. I integrated a GPS module that can also be used for 0-60, perhaps an accelerometer is in the future. And will also have an Echo Auto as well, just waiting for some usb bits. A lot of work, it turned out ok. Kinda looks stock if you squint. The fan knob on the right is about 2mm lower as the hole is a little big for the fan controller potentiometer, I will scootch it up a bit and tighten it up. Still waiting on the turbo back from Turbonetics, I am in no hurry. I also have the injectors being checked out, just to make sure that they are ok. I am keeping an eye peeled for Black Friday deals on the MS3 Gold box. The button where the fog light switch would normally go is for the power trunk release.
  9. 2 points
    So it's been quite a journey with good old Fred. Blood, sweat and cursing. He was named Fred by my wife because when he showed up in the driveway, he was painted black and she thought he looked like a top hat, like Fred Astaire's. So Fred he was. I learned a lot and spent a lot. Hundreds of hours in the garage while Pandora kept me entertained. Dozens of questions and help from all you FAQ'ers, Steve at Blunt and various friends and mechanics. Quite the journey. He's finally done....well, as done as they ever are. Of course there are still dribs and drabs here and there but for the most part, he's in good shape. He drives like a dream, handles like a champ and even sounds good both from the engine sound to the custom stereo. There are many of you to thank but knowing you guys, the pix will do the talking. Thx for the journey! Nick Here you go!
  10. 2 points
    50th Anniversary BMW CCA Oktoberfest was pretty awesome. With a few exceptions. 2 iconic BMWs were in the lobby of the hotel. Yale Rachlin's 1974 2002Tii & Parker Spooner's 1970 2800 CS. At dinner, I was notified by Paul Cain "There were not enough cars in Classic Super Clean" so I was bumped down to "Classic Clean". It rained Wednesday on the Concours. I discovered too late there were 6 cars in Classic Super Clean, after Vern had been judged! Needless to say I felt a bit cheated by this fiasco! Learned via text message later Wednesday evening Vern place 3rd, in Classic Clean, judges only did interiors because it was raining. After the Concours was over, I joined the BMW Classic CCA for a tour to Highlands North Carolina. The 507 had a fuel delivery issue and after some fussing was flatbedded back to The BMW CCA Foundation. The tour of the mountains was a two day affair. Aside from awesome roads we visited "The Wheels Through Time" Museum. All American bikes from Pebble Beach winners to one of Evel Kneivel's Harleys and everything in between. Dale Wexler wasn't there though his son Matt was, he spent considerable time with us and the Veritas. Aside from the car's fugliness, it has a BMW 328 motor. It was pretty cold & frosty in Highlands, in fact colder than my home Maine! Friday I headed back to the BMW Performance Center for a Charity Lap Ride in BMW NA's 25 CSL, I was 7th in line. As I was strapped in, I told Alex Schmuck this was a dream come true. He didn't disappoint. We were off with a quickness as Alex shifted & powered though the turns just shy of losing grip, I was having a blast! Quarter way into the 2nd lap as we exited turn on the CSL just quit running! We coasted to a stop, Alex tried to restart, as it was cranking over the battery died. Alex apologized profusely because I didn't get my full two laps. Though I was bummed, the time in the car was fantastic. We spent at least 30 minutes waiting for the tow vehicle. At 2pm Friday I said my goodbyes and headed North to Boston for a Retirement Party Saturday at 5 pm for a very good friend. Vern & I covered 1,052 miles and made it to the restaurant at exactly 5 pm! It was worth the trip to surprise him. "You're here! I thought you were in South Carolina!" I replied "I was. Wouldn't miss this this for anything!" Other highlights: Ed Zinzmier's 2000CS, simply stunning in person! Bo Black winning 1st in Classic Super Clean! The Coffee Soufflé at the Edwards Inn & Spa! Route 28 into & out of Highlands NC. Spending time with my BMW family, "If it weren't for the BMW CCA, I'd have no friends." - Andrew
  11. 1 point
    Welded on the Ground Control bits, installed the rebound adjustable Koni inserts, Eibach springs, GC camber plates. These are the e30m3 struts but it's the same for the 2002 guys. The rear is interesting, between the 02 chassis and the e30m3 subframe I need springs in the 11 to 13 inch long range... All of this is temporary until I get around to another set of MCS dampers. Loved them in the tii, they're just super ultra mega.
  12. 1 point
    The plan was to replace both rocker panels, and the spare tire well. And anything else that the excavations turned up. We knew we would find more. Thanks to Reggie Stewart - his shop Reggie's Motorworks did the work. Also thanks to Paul Wegweiser, who supplied a lot of the parts via Maximillian's. Special thanks to my wife for supporting me on my expensive hobbies! Here's what was found on the driver's side. Work was needed on the lower part of the firewall, and the floor, a bit. Bottom of the A pillar where everything comes together was probably the worst. Work was also needed in the area around where the rear subframe bolts to the car - in front of the rear wheel wells. So here are the pics from start to finish.
  13. 1 point
    Reggie's wife Stephanie took some nice pics of the car after it was all cleaned up. So photo credit goes to Stephanie Stewart. Car came out great. Nice to know it is solid underneath, once again. Hope it lasts another 50 years!
  14. 1 point
    And we're on to the other side!
  15. 1 point
    Progress has been slow. (I promise not to start every blog post that way!) However, I now have the electric motor (Parker GVM 210-150) mated to the 4-speed transmission with a coupler from Hayes to mount the clutch assembly and a custom aluminum bell housing adapter. That motorcycle in the background of the photo below is one of the reasons why progress has been so slow, but I'll save that for a separate post... So what does it look like in the former engine bay?... tiny. There's more "stuff" required to fill out the motor bay, but it's still a surprise to see how small a modern EV motor is needed to outperform the original drivetrain. As a reminder, this is a 100# water-cooled, internal permanent magnet motor producing 189 lb-ft of torque and somewhere around 160hp. Unfortunately, the weird stock engine mounts didn't provide a lot of good options to mount the motor, so we improvised and came up with unique steel mounts that will attach through urethane bushings to the frame rails via a new welded-in bracket. I was hoping not to compromise the frame rails, but this car is never going to be converted back, so what the heck... Now that the drivetrain is nearly in, I'll need to make some progress with the battery assembly and wiring harness next. I've also got a few more big components to get on order - namely the motor inverter, which will sit above the motor on a yet to be designed bracket. Stay tuned!
  16. 1 point
    Or what do you do while you wait? The body is at the painter for some light body work and paint. I expect it to be there for a couple months. Maybe more. I did tell them that I wasn't in a hurry. Mainly because I haven't figured out where I'll put it once it's done or where I'll reassemble Betty. Garage space being what it is right now. So, I have time on my hands in regards to working on the car. So, what do I do? Well, I have several parts that still need restoring. The heater core is first. Then there are the front and rear subframes. Those aren't in bad shape, but could use new bushings and new paint. Seeing PaulTWinterton's work in the Sub-frame Paint? thread has me thinking about going that route. But as Steve mentioned in that same thread, black may be the actual color to use. Not that I'm going for any concourse winner level work with this restomod, I still want it to look period correct. We also need to work on are the interior pieces. We'll recover all of the stock seats and are looking for a good kit supplier. The sunroof parts need to be cleaned up and polished. I'll follow the advise here: http://www.my2002tii.com/spring_2005/sunroof.htm There are these little white clips that cover the rear pop out window mechanism that's crumbling and broken. Does anyone know where to get replacements? That's where Jo and I are now with the project. Waiting for the body to come back from paint AND restoring the little bits here and there.
  17. 1 point
    A few months ago Jo and I decided that we'd like to sell our house of 21 years and buy another in town that would be our forever home. In 21 years, you collect a lot of stuff. Too much stuff as it would turn out. Since we hadn't done it in a very long time, I'd forgotten just how big a pain in the rear moving is. So, on top of all of our house stuff, I had 3 cars to move. One of which, Betty, was in parts all over the garage. Most of it was already in boxes, bagged and tagged. But a lot was kept in a cabinet on shelves. Those many parts would need to be carefully boxed up and cataloged. That takes more time than you think! SO, there was also the matter of having actually DOWNSIZED on the garage. Yeah, dumb on my part, but I planned to build another garage next to this house just for housing the newly restored Betty. The problem is that the car was not ready and neither was I. Caleb to the rescue as he would be repainting Betty and since we were now NOT in a big hurry, could store her at his shop until we were ready! Perfect. So, boxes packed and everything made it to the new house safe and sound. All that's left to do is get all of my new shelves built so I can get all of these parts off the ground which will free up space in the new garage for both of the other cars! I like it when a plan, you never planned for, but none the less comes together. Pic of new house.
  18. 1 point
    Visited Veronika at VSR. Fitted the Cocomat templates and went over punch list items for The Misselwood Concours in July. Snow in the Perpetual Winterlands means driving season is over for all the low sodium BMWs. Back to the 2007 X3 6-speed.
  19. 1 point
    Hey folks just a quick update for the three people following me. The Turbo is being redone, and will back to me in about a week. I will update this post with regards to the bits that I have procured to help me manage boost, temperatures and pressures etc.... So considering I have a bit of time before I go boosted, I decided to taking the log boat from China approach. If I can wait a month to get the sensor, I can save myself a lot of $$. Like a map sensor for $10 instead of 50 etc etc.. I ordered many of these as soon as I received the shipment of parts. I am on the fence about these things, but the saving grace will be the exhaust temperature sensors, they will be the last line of defence to make sure nothing gets melted in case something goes wrong. I can setup a failsafe in the computer if any of them go over a particular temperature it will go into safe(er) mode. I am on the fence about drive by wire for my throttle body. Kinda techy, but it enables me down the road to do a rudimentary traction control system if/when I get a driveshaft speed sensor, and wheel speed sensor. It also lets me to do LHM in case anything goes wonky. The only other thing I am trying to figure out is doing boost by gear. The problem is letting the computer know which gear I am in. The G245 has no provision for it, and I am not sure if/how I could build one. But I am getting ahead of myself. Here is what I have so far. So here is the 3 bar standard GM MAP sensor. $14.51 for the sensor. Here is the Gm style inlet temp sensor. $25.64 for the sensor and plug, $15.05 for 2 bungs. I may get a second one, that way I can put one before the intercooler and one after, to see how well it is doing it's job. I already have the GM style coolant temp sensor, so I am good there. Here are the EGT sensors with fittings to tap into the exhaust housing. $37.33 for four of them Here is the canbus interface for the EGT to get the information into the computer. $116.00 Here is the 3 port boost control solenoid. There are 2, 3 and 4 port. I did the three port one as it works best with the blow off valve I have. $24.75. I took a look at tons of them, they are all the same format and design, so I can only think that they are likely re-branded from this company in China. Some were charging $200 for the same one (it appears). We will have to wait and see how it turns out. Here is the corn controller. It is a standard GM style ethanol sensor. $29.03 for the sensor, $4.11 for the plug and $26.35 for the 6an adapters (best price I could find) . I will have to replace about 20 feet of hose to run E85, worth the investment to experiment with this. Also it will allow me to automatically adjust my tune based on what fuel I actually have in the tank vs. what the pump says. Also I got some microswitches. I am going to program this to flat shift, which means that I can set how high my revs go when I put my foot on the clutch. Essentially I can put my foot to the floor and keep it there and shift through the gears without it redlining when I depress the clutch. Less laggy, more boosty... at least that is what the internet says, and for the $2.00, it is worth the experiment. People who do this also play with anti-lag, I am not sure I want to go down that road until I upgrade my internals. Here is my IAC unit. Tom at 02 again of course makes great stuff. Here is the adapter on the jeep IAC unit. $14.19 for the IAC unit. It was $69.90 USD for the adapter. I am not sure what that works out in CDN, probably about $100 with duty, taxes and shipping. This of course is just mocked up. Thanks, and that is it for now. I will show off the rebuilt Turbo sometime next week (hopefully), and go into what housing I am using as well as the compressor wheel. Still waiting for the MS gold box, I will take a look at it on black friday, still not anywhere close to swapping out the intake. I am looking at a new/rebuilt steering box yet to be installed, along with correcting a problem with my heater valve, then looking to get my diff rebuilt with the ghost LSD insert, then I realised my clutch master is toast, which means I might as well do my pedal box as I have had the I.E kit for a year... and of course might as well put in the performance brake booster pivot sleeve while I am at it.(I have had that for a year). And then finalize a couple bits on my A/C and re-install my console, and then... and then ... and then.... How did I get here again? Thanks.
  20. 1 point
    I stopped by American Auto Painting & Body to check in on progress and discuss some issues that they've run into that I'll touch on in a sec. But first the good stuff. They have begun to strip the body down to metal. Luckily they haven't uncovered a ton of Bondo or any unexpected rust. The body is really straight and relatively ding free for it's age. They've also been able to remove the old nose and hang the NOS replacement clip I bought from @m-tuner - thanks Bruce! They had to clean up some minor dents on the clip from it having been stored and moved around over the years, but otherwise the clip was installed without any issues and looks great. They've also started to do some dent removal and patching. Now on to the not so good stuff. At some point, the rear was bumped hard enough that it bent the internal trunk supports, specifically the center one between the spare well and gas tank. This caused the surrounding metal to buckle a little. They need to go in and straighten that all out. I'm already having them go in and replace the spare tub and some rust on the gas tank surround, so they address this while they're in there. The big surprise and the reason they called and asked me to drop in: fender fitment. I had purchased 1 driver and 2 passenger aftermarket fenders from WN. Unfortunately, none of them fit. The gaps are completely off by more that a 1/8 inch up by the nose and close to a 1/4 by the doors, and the panel bolt holes are no where close to the frame bolt holes. Not good quality at all. For anyone considering these for their build, don't waste your time and money. Get OEM sheet metal instead. Lesson learned. Luckily for me, the body guy says he can salvage my original fenders and used the WN ones to patch the rust on them. Whew! That's it for now. Hope to post an update on the body work in a couple of weeks. James
  21. 1 point
    While the car was cut to pieces, I spent time rebuilding the rear subframe and related parts. It was a nice break from all the grinding, cutting, and scraping on the body. The rear subframe was sand blasted by precariously hanging one end out of a HF sand blaster with a few trash bags strapped to the side to contain the dust. It was then primed with corroseal and coated with a few coats of brushed on gloss enamel. The same treatment was given to the differential case, diff bracket, and rear control arms. Luckily a set of refreshed control arms were included with the car. I was able to use these instead of performing surgery on the spring perches of the originals. For suspension I used the ST lowering springs found in the trunk. The PO had installed the fronts already, but not the back for some reason, probably because it would have crumbled... I matched these with KYB gas adjust struts, new rubber bushings in the control arms and subframe, poly subframe mount inserts from IE, IE poly diff bushings, and an IE rear sway bar. Brakes were left stock but new besides some stainless lines from BavAuto (RIP). I also bent and flared cunifer hard lines. I'm on the fence if the time effort is worth buying a new set. I have two original lines left in the car as of writing this. I'm pretty sick of flaring lines... I also took the opportunity to replace the diff fluid with red line and rebuild both axles with fresh boots and grease. IMG_0851.MOV
  22. 1 point
    I dropped by the paint shop today to drop off the hood latch parts so that the body guy could set and align the hood. Here are some pics showing progress. Nose is getting some touch up and the hood is getting aligned. The original fenders have been patched and reattached. Begone rust, after market sheet metal shenanigans and DOT silliness! Doors and sides have been patched as well. No more side markers - or gas cap. The rear panel has been cleaned up and the lower valance replaced. Note the dead center exhaust. Last, they've started to address the trunk area. That's it for now. Another post soon to highlight some of the parts I recently picked up. Cheers, James PS. Shameless plug: I've posted several things for sale. BUY SOMETHING! I need to pay for this stuff 😉.
  23. 1 point
    My Wife and I bought a new house. We close on it tomorrow and start moving on Wednesday. Before we bought I had a scare and I almost made a bad decision. That was to part out my project and let Betty go. A lot of people on this site were very nice and offered good prices for the parts that I had posted for sale. And they were even nicer when I came to my senses and retracted my ad. Everyone was very understanding. Jo and I would figure out how to make this work. The house we're buying only has a two car garage. We need three. So not only will I be moving into the new place, but will begin planning for a new detached workshop/garage! So, that bridge has been crossed and the project back on track. The sale of our current house and purchase of our new house proceeded. Deal's done and all that's left to do is pack up and move. Here's the thing. We've lived in this house for 21 years. Longest I've ever stayed put. The problem with staying in one place that long is you accumulate a lot of crap. And I mean a metric ton of junk. Literally. The Swiss I think have a word, Döstädning. I'm not sure I'm ready to embrace this fully, but damn, I have a lot of junk. The last several days have been spent purging and cleaning and purging and stuffing things into boxes. Everything for the car has been packed away except the seats, wheels, dash and the engine. The chassis has been hauled off to the painters. It'll be there for a couple months. The rest of her parts have been put into quite a few boxes. It's funny how a small car, when exploded like it is, takes up so much room! Today, I tackled how to get the engine off the stand and into a crate for transport to the new house. I've never build an engine crate before so I did some research. Which means YouTube. I figured that I'd use the old scrap wood I had in the shop and have at it. Here's what I came up with. It's pretty secure in there. Resting on the oil pan in a cradle. Then there are braces on the sides of the block to keep it from rocking. Also there are side supports to keep it from sliding back and forth. What's not shown are wheels I installed to make it easier to move around on the floor. It should do for the short move. At least I hope it will do!
  24. 0 points
    I got in an accident a week ago in the 02. Got hit at an intersection by a guy that ran the red light. As you can imagine im pretty devastated but trying to be optimistic. It can be fixed but its gonna take a lot of money. I spent the last couple years restoring the car on a budget including a new engine, 5 speed trans, new interior and paint. What I think I want to do is find a shell and swap all the parts from my car to the shell. If you have any leads on a shell with minimal rust, please send the info my way. I'm located in Phoenix but willing to drive to neighboring states.
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